Waves

Question 1

Formation

Answer 1

1. Water becomes shallower and circular orbit of water particles change to an elliptical shape
2. Wavelength and velocity decrease, wave height increases->Water backs up from behind and topples
3. Water rushes up beach as swash and flows as backwash

Question 2

Constructive waves

Answer 2

Distant weather systems
Low surging waves with long wavelength but less frequent

Strong swash weak backwash
Beach gain
Formation of ridges, gentle beach proigge

Question 3

Destructive waves

Answer 3

Local storms
High, plunging waves with short wavelength, frequent
Weak swash, strong backwash

Beach loss
Associated with steeper beach profile
Force of each wave may project shingle towards rear where large ridge forms

Question 4

Wave refraction

Answer 4

The topography of the coastline effects wave action

When waves approach a coastline which is irregular they are refracted

Question 5

wave refraction formation

Answer 5

shallow water meets the headland, this increase wave height and steepness and shortens the length

Part of wave in deeper water moves faster causing war to bend

Wave energy concentrated on headland->more erosion
Low energy waves spill into bays-> deposition