Wave refraction Flashcards

1
Q

wave refraction is when the shape of the coastline curves waves so that they end up more or less

A

parallel to the coastline

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2
Q

wave refraction occurs because (explain the steps in wave refraction)

A
  • waves approach the coast in parallel lines
  • when one section of a wave hits shallower water, it slows down due to increased friction with the seabed
  • this creates a curved wave near headlands or bars as the rest of the wave keeps travelling at the same speed
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3
Q

wave refraction means the wave energy becomes more

A

concentrated on the headland, causing greater erosion

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4
Q

as waves hit a headland, their energy is concentrated onto the …………………so when the rest of the wave spills into the bay, they ………………..sediment

A

onto the headland, deposit sediment

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5
Q

wave refraction on headlands can create

A

longshore currents

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6
Q

longshore currents are

A

when eroded sediments form the headland are carried towards the beaches on either side of the headland because the concentrated wave energy leads to a small local sea level rise, so the water creates a currents to ‘drain’ away the ‘extra’ water converging on the headland

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