Wave generation and Characteristics

Question 1

What are the transport processes

Answer 1

• Longshore drift
• traction, saltation suspension, solution

Question 2

What are the erosion processes

Answer 2

• Hydraulic action, atritions, abrasion, solution

Question 3

what are the sub-Ariel processes

Answer 3

weathering - physical, chemical, biological

Question 4

What is wave length

Answer 4

The distance between two wave crests

Question 5

Wave period

Answer 5

The time it takes for two successive crests to pass a specified point

Question 6

wave frequency

Answer 6

The number of waves passing a particular point per minute

Question 7

wave energy

Answer 7

generated by wind blowing over the sea. Dependant on strength duration and fetch

Question 8

wave refraction

Answer 8

The change in direction of waves as they move from deep water to shallow water. Involves waves breaking onto an irregularly shaped coastline e.g a headland separated by 2 bays.

Question 9

High energy coastline

Answer 9

Associated with more powerful destructive waves. Typically have rocky headlands and landforms. erosion exceeds deposition

Question 10

Low energy coastline

Answer 10

Waves are not powerful. The rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion. Landforms includes beaches and spits

Question 11

Constructive waves

Answer 11

A low energy wave with a strong swash than backwash. This means that material is washed up and builds up the coastline

Question 12

destructive waves

Answer 12

A strong wave that has often travelled over a long fetch. They have a stronger backwash than swash and tend to erode the coastline

Question 13

Wave height of constructive waves

Answer 13

Under 1 meter

Question 14

Wave height of destructive waves

Answer 14

Over 1 meter

Question 15

wave length of constructive waves

Answer 15

short - low frequency

Question 16

wave length of destructive waves

Answer 16

short

Question 17

Type of wave break for constructive waves

Answer 17

Spilling

Question 18

Type of wave break for destructive waves

Answer 18

Plunging

Question 19

strength of swash for constructive waves

Answer 19

Strong swash

Question 20

strength of swash for destructive waves

Answer 20

restricted swash

Question 21

strength of backwash for constructive waves

Answer 21

very weak

Question 22

strength of backwash for destructive waves

Answer 22

very strong

Question 23

net beach sediment for constructive waves

Answer 23

gain

Question 24

net beach sediment for destructive waves

Answer 24

loss

Question 25

Swash meaning

Answer 25

The movement of the water onto the beach after a wave breaks. Material being carried by waves is deposited onto the beach.

Question 26

Backwash meaning

Answer 26

the movement of the wave back down the beach. This drags any material off the beach