Wave Action and Coastal Features Flashcards

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1
Q

Coastline

A

An area where the land and sea meet

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2
Q

Swash

A

The movement of a wave onto the coast

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3
Q

Wave Length

A

This is the distance between two successive wave crests

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4
Q

Wave Height

A

The distance from the crest to the trough

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5
Q

Fetch

A

The strech of open water over which the wind (which creates a wave) blows before a wave strikes the coast

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6
Q

Shore

A

The zone which is situated between the low and high water mark

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7
Q

Beach Berm

A

A narrow terrace or shelf deposits( sand, pebbles, etc) which were thrown onto the beach by waves. It is found parallel to the coastline and usually indicates the high water mark

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8
Q

Wave frequency

A

The rate per minute at which waves break onto the shore

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9
Q

Wave

A

The oscillating movement of the sea as wind blows over the water.

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10
Q

Wave Backwash

A

The movement of a wave away from the coast and back to the sea

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11
Q

Wave refraction

A

This is the change of direction of a wave as it approaches a beach

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