Topic 3 - key terms Flashcards
Coastal system
narrow zone where the land and sea overlap
Wind
the movement of air from one place to another
Pressure gradient
the difference of pressure between two places
the fetch
the distance of open water over which the wind blows, the longer the fetch the stronger the wave
Constructive waves
low-surging waves with a long wave length, they have a strong swash and weak backwash resulting in beach gain
Destructive waves
high-plunging waves with a short wave length, they have a weak swash and strong backwash resulting in beach loss
tides
changes in the water levels of seas due to the gravitational pull of the moon and lesser extent the sun
Tidal range
relative difference in height between high and low tide, affected by the relative position of the sun/moon
Neap tide
lowest tidal range, the sun and moon are at right angles to the earth
Spring tide
highest tidal range, the sun and moon are in line with earth
rip currents
a strong, offshore current that is caused by the tide pulling water through an inlet along a barrier beach or a lagoon
sandbar
ridge of sand built up by currents in coastal waters
Wave refraction
distortion of wave fronts as they approach an indented shoreline
sediment
naturally occurring material that is broken down by weathering/erosion, transported by wind, water, ice or gravity.
sediment cell
a stretch of coastline bordered by two prominent headlands. sediment movement is contained and its flows are in equilibrium
weathering
the break-down of rock in situ at/close to the ground surface
Biological weathering
the break-down of rock by organic activity
chemical weathering
the break-down of rock due to chemical reactions
mechanical weathering
the break-down of rock without any chemical changes occurring
Mass movement
when rocks loosened by weathering move down slope due to gravity
soil creep
slow movement of soil particles down hill
Mudflows
mud moving down hill over unconsolidated/weak bedrock like clay, usually after a heavy rainfall event
llandslide
block of rock moving rapidly downhill along a slide plane, a bedding roughly parallel to the ground surface.
Landslip
block of rock moving rapidly downhill along a curved slide plane
rockfall
sudden collapse or breaking away of rock fragments at cliff face.
coastal erosion
the manifestation of energy from the sun, converted by power of wind into waves capable of sculpting landforms and eroding sediment