Theory

Question 1

-

What is the littoral zone?

Answer 1

Consists of offshore, nearshore, foreshore, backshore

ON FACEBOOK

Question 2

Describe destructive waves

Answer 2

• Frequent (13-15/minute)
• Weak swash, strong backwash
• Motion of water is circular (deeper nearshore)

Question 3

Describe constructive waves

Answer 3

• Less frequent (6-8/minute)
• Swash > backwash = deposition
• Motion of water is elliptical (so strong forward motion)

Question 4

What is percolation?

Answer 4

The downward movement of water through soil, sand, pebbles etc.

(Faster through pebbles than soil and sand)

Question 5

How does wave type affect beach morphology in the short term?

Answer 5

• Storm events (destructive waves)
• Calm anticyclonic conditions (constructive waves)

Question 6

How does wave type affect beach morphology over longer periods?

Answer 6

• Seasonal variations in wave type (destructive in winter, constructive in summer)

Question 7

Describe discordant coasts

Answer 7

• Alternating layers of hard and soft rock arranged perpendicular to the coastline

Question 8

What land formations form at discordant coasts?

and describe their formation

Answer 8

Headlands and bays
Perpendicular geological structure = soft, more fractured rock more easily eroded + hard, more resistant rock eroded at a slower rate = headlands + bays

Question 9

How would SLR affect headlands and bays?

Answer 9

• SLR = waves in increasingly frequent contact with the soft rock (bay), eroding them backwards = headland/bay morphology more exaggerated

Question 10

How does wave refraction affect headlands and bays in the long run?

Answer 10

• Waves refract around the headland, concentration of waves on headland = accelerated erosion on headland, material then deposited in bay
• So in theory, headlands eventually eroded away, bays fill up = straighter coastline

Question 11

Describe concordant coasts and examples

Answer 11

• Alternating layers of hard and soft rock arranged parallel to the coastline
• Dalmatian and Haff

Question 12

How was the Dalmatian coastline formed?

Answer 12

• Tectonic folding = series of anticlines and synclines (bands orientated parallel to the coastline)
• SLR + river erosion into synclines = flooded synclines = series of parallel anticline ridges

Question 13

How was the Haff coastline formed?

Answer 13

• Glacier deposited sand and gravel offshore, deposited closer to land after glacial period ended
• = long sediment ridges that run parallel to coast = series of lagoons (haffs) between ridges and shore

Question 14

Longer term SLR causes?

Answer 14

• Eustatic
• Isostatic
• Tectonics

Question 15

Isostatic change?

Answer 15

• Heavy ice = land is pushed downwards
• Melting ice = land rebounds back

Question 16

Tectonics change?

Answer 16

• Plate convergence/subduction = sudden upwards thrust/downwards movement of seabed

Question 17

Emergent coastlines causes and land formations?

Answer 17

• Caused by isostatic rebound
• Raised beaches - found above high-tide
• Fossil cliffs - near vertical cliffs but inland (at the back of raised beaches)

Question 18

Eustatic change?

Answer 18

• Global change
• Melting of ice = global SLR
• ↑ global temps = thermal expansion of water = global SLR

Question 19

Submergent coastlines causes and formations?

Answer 19

• Caused by eustatic SLR/isostatic sinking
• Rias - flooded river valleys (V-shaped)
• Fjords - flooded glaciated valley (U-shaped)
• Dalmation coasts - concordant coastlines with series of parallel anticlines and flooded synclines

Question 20

Accretion?

Answer 20

The accumulation of depositied fluvial material