The Dynamic Ocean Flashcards
Ocean Current
Mass of water that flow within an ocean
Factors Effecting Currents
Wind Continents Gyre Friction Coriolis Affect Gravity
Coriolis Effect
the deflection of the path of a moving object cause by earth rotation.
To the right in the northern hemisphere
To the left in the southern hemisphere
Gyre
large circular ocean current
Parts of the Shore
Shore line – line where water meets the land.
Fore shore – area exposed when tide is out and submerged when the tide is in.
Near Shore – area between the shore line at low tide and where waves break.
Off Shore – area seaward of the near shore.
Wave
Energy traveling through water.
Have vertical motion, but no horizontal motion
Parts of a Wave
Crest – top of wave
Trough – bottom of wave
Wave height – Distance between crest and trough
Wave length – distance between two adjacent crests
Wave base – lowest depth of influence of wave (equal to ½ wave length)
Changes in a wave as it approaches the shore
In open ocean, waves have no effect
As wave approaches shore velocity decreases
Wave length decreases
Wave height increases
Breach Drift
movement of sediment along a beach face by wave action
Longshore Current
mild current that flow parallel to the shore
Wave refraction
bending of waves
Erosive shoreline features
Wave cut cliff
Sea arches
Sea Stack
Depositional shoreline features
Spit - an elongated ridge of sand that projects from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay
Bay mouth bar - a sandbar that completely crosses the mouth of a bay
Tom bolo - a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland
Barrier Island - low ridges of sand parallel to the coast.
Hard stabilization
Jetty - rock wall built perpendicular to shore
increase deposition on up beach side, increase erosion on down beach side
Breakwater - Rock wall built parallel to the shore, but off shore
Increase deposition behind the wall.
Sea wall - rock wall built parallel to the shore, along the shore
increase erosion on seaward side.
Soft stabilization
Beach Nourishment - import sand to a beach. Improves beach quality
erosion removes imported sand
Very expensive
adverse environmental effects
Relocation
relocating storm damaged or at risk buildings