The Dynamic Ocean Flashcards

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1
Q

Ocean Current

A

Mass of water that flow within an ocean

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2
Q

Factors Effecting Currents

A
Wind
Continents
Gyre
Friction 
Coriolis Affect
Gravity
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3
Q

Coriolis Effect

A

the deflection of the path of a moving object cause by earth rotation.
To the right in the northern hemisphere
To the left in the southern hemisphere

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4
Q

Gyre

A

large circular ocean current

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5
Q

Parts of the Shore

A

Shore line – line where water meets the land.
Fore shore – area exposed when tide is out and submerged when the tide is in.
Near Shore – area between the shore line at low tide and where waves break.
Off Shore – area seaward of the near shore.

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6
Q

Wave

A

Energy traveling through water.

Have vertical motion, but no horizontal motion

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7
Q

Parts of a Wave

A

Crest – top of wave
Trough – bottom of wave
Wave height – Distance between crest and trough
Wave length – distance between two adjacent crests
Wave base – lowest depth of influence of wave (equal to ½ wave length)

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8
Q

Changes in a wave as it approaches the shore

A

In open ocean, waves have no effect
As wave approaches shore velocity decreases
Wave length decreases
Wave height increases

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9
Q

Breach Drift

A

movement of sediment along a beach face by wave action

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10
Q

Longshore Current

A

mild current that flow parallel to the shore

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11
Q

Wave refraction

A

bending of waves

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12
Q

Erosive shoreline features

A

Wave cut cliff
Sea arches
Sea Stack

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13
Q

Depositional shoreline features

A

Spit - an elongated ridge of sand that projects from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay
Bay mouth bar - a sandbar that completely crosses the mouth of a bay
Tom bolo - a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland
Barrier Island - low ridges of sand parallel to the coast.

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14
Q

Hard stabilization

A

Jetty - rock wall built perpendicular to shore
increase deposition on up beach side, increase erosion on down beach side
Breakwater - Rock wall built parallel to the shore, but off shore
Increase deposition behind the wall.
Sea wall - rock wall built parallel to the shore, along the shore
increase erosion on seaward side.

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15
Q

Soft stabilization

A

Beach Nourishment - import sand to a beach. Improves beach quality
erosion removes imported sand
Very expensive
adverse environmental effects
Relocation
relocating storm damaged or at risk buildings

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16
Q

Ocean water

A

Average salinity 3.5%
Sources:
Rivers and streams
Volcanoes

17
Q

Factors affecting salinity

A
Decrease:
Rivers and streams
Precipitation
Melting sea ice
Increase:
Evaporation
Formation of sea ice
18
Q

Thermocline

A

With depth temperature decreases

19
Q

Pycnocline

A

With depth density increases

20
Q

Layers of the Ocean

A

Mixing Zone
Transition Zone
Deep Zone

21
Q

Factors affecting Density

A

Temperature

Salinity