The Coastal System Flashcards

You may prefer our related Brainscape-certified flashcards:
1
Q

What are the features of a system?

A

They have inputs, outputs, flows and stores of sediment and energy.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

What are the inputs of the coastal system?

A
  • Sediment enters the system in many ways e.g. fluvial sediment
  • Energy inputs: wind, waves, tides and currents
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

What are the outputs of the coastal system?

A
  • Evaporation

- Sediment: deposited further along coast

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

What are the flows/transfers of the coastal system?

A

Processes:

  1. Erosion
  2. Weathering
  3. Transportation
  4. Deposition
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

What are the stores/components of the coastal system?

A

Landforms:

  1. Beaches
  2. Spits
  3. Bars
  4. Dunes
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

Coastal systems are generally in D____________ E________________.

A

DYNAMIC EQUILIBRIUM - (Inputs and outputs are balanced)

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

What is meant by negative feedback?

A

A change in the system causes other changes that have the opposite effect.

Negative feedback - restores the balance of the system.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

Give an example of negative feedback in the coastal system

A
Beach eroded 
Cliffs behind it exposed to wave attack
Sediment eroded from cliffs 
Deposition 
Beach grows in size
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

What is meant by positive feedback?

A

A change in the system causes other changes with a similar effect.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

Give an example of positive feedback in the coastal feedback

A

Beach starts to form
It slows down waves
Causes more sediment to be deposited
Increases size of beach

NEW EQUILIBRIUM IS REACHED WHEN LONG TERM GROWTH OF THE BEACH STOPS

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

What is a landform?

A

Individual features which are created by coastal processes

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

What is a landscape?

A

The entire area of sea, coastline and immediate land behind the sea front. Within the landscape are characteristic landforms.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

What are the 4 sources of energy in coastal systems?

A
  1. Wind
  2. Waves
  3. Tides
  4. Currents
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

Winds are created by a__ moving between areas of h____ p_______ to areas of l__ p_______.

The steeper the gradient…

A

Air
High pressure
Low pressure

… the faster the winds move.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

Strong winds can generate powerful w_______.

What are prevailing winds?

A

Waves

Are winds that consistently blow from the same direction, causing higher-energy waves that change direction frequently.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

Waves are created by the _____ blowing over the surface of the sea.

The friction between the 2 causes gives the water a ________ ________

A

Wind

Circular motion

17
Q

The effect of a wave on the shore depends on its _____

This is affected by wind _____ and the f____ of the wave.

A higher wind speed and a longer fetch create ________ and more __________ waves

A
Height 
Speed 
Fetch
Higher 
Powerful
18
Q

What is the swash?

A

Water washing up beach

19
Q

What is the backwash?

A

Water washing back towards the sea

20
Q

What are the characteristics of constructive waves?

A

Low frequency
6-8 per minute
Low and long
Powerful swash = deposition

21
Q

What are the characteristics of destructive waves?

A

Higher frequency
10-14 per minute
Higher and steeper (a more circular cross profile)
Stronger backwash = erosion

22
Q

What is meant by wave frequency?

A

How many waves pass a point in a particular time

23
Q

What is a tides?

A

The periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon.

24
Q

Tides affect the position at which waves b____ on the beach.

High tide - they break _______ up the shore

A

Break

Higher

25
Q

Where are most landforms created and destroyed?

A

Between the high and low water mark?

26
Q

What are spring tides?

A

Help

27
Q

What are neap tides?

A

Help

28
Q

What is a tidal range?

A

The difference in height between the low and high tide marks

29
Q

A small tidal range leads to erosion being…

A

concentrated at base of cliff

30
Q

What are currents?

A

The general flow of water in one direction

31
Q

Currents are caused by…

Currents move material along the coast.

A

Wind or by variations in water temperature and salinity

32
Q

HIGH-ENERGY COASTS

  • Recieve high inputs of energy in the form of large, powerful w_______
  • These are caused by…
  • strong winds
  • long fetches

• Landforms include:
- Cliffs, caves, stacks and arches

The rate of erosion is…

A

Waves

Higher than the rate of deposition

33
Q

LOW-ENERGY COASTS

  • Low input of energy (small and gentle waves, due to sheltered nature of area, short fetches)
  • Reef or Island offshore can protect a coast from powerful waves
  • Landforms
  • Saltmarshes
  • Tidal mudflats

• The rate of deposition…

A

Is often higher than the rate of erosion

34
Q

What are the sources of sediment in the coastal system? (5)

A
  1. Rivers (carry material from inland)
  2. Sea level rise floods river valley forming estuary, estuary sediment becomes part of the coastal system
  3. Sediment is eroded from cliffs (mass movements too)
  4. Waves, tides and currents can transport sediment into the coastal zone from offshore deposits (eg sandbanks)
  5. Wind - aeolian processes
35
Q

What is the sediment budget?

A

The difference between the amount of sediment that enters the system and the amount that leaves

36
Q

What is meant by a positive sediment budget?

A

More sediment enters than leaves

Coastline builds outwards

37
Q

What is meant by a negative sediment budget?

A

More sediment leaves than enters

Coastline retreats

38
Q

What are sediment cells (or littoral cells)?

A

A stretch of coastline within which sediment movement is more or less contained.

Processes of one cell do not affect the movement of sediment in another cell, (cells are closed systems)