Textile snakes and ladders cards Flashcards
List 5 stages in production required to make
cotton into a white T-shirt.
Bleach cotton > spun > weft knitted > finished >
laid/cut/assembled
How long are cotton fibres?
Less than 5cm
What type of standard yarns can cotton
fibres be made into?
Ring spun or open-end spun
State the 2 fundamental differences between
weft and warp knitting.
Weft is formed horizontally and can be made from
1 yarn, warp needs many yarns and is formed
vertically.
Among plain, twill and satin, which weave
structure gives the best surface lustre?
Satin
State the difference between dyeing and
printing
Dyeing is the production of single uniform
colour of textiles. Printing is the production
of multiple copies of designs with multiple
colours
When is a fibre called a filament?
When it is very long/continuous
Define the term ‘elongation’ as it relates to
fibres and filaments.
How much the fibre/filament stretches before it breaks
Why is cotton comfortable to wear in
normal fashion garments?
Because it is fine/soft and absorbent.
What fibre classification does cotton belong
to?
Natural cellulosic
Why is combed ring spun yarn better
quality than normal ring spun yarn?
Fibres are more aligned so it is
stronger and smoother.
Why are open-end spun yarns cheaper than
ring-spun?
They are quicker to make
What are columns of stitches called in
knitted fabrics?
Wales
What are rows of stitches called in knitted
fabrics?
Courses
Why is plain woven fabric good with
‘not snagging’?
Lowest float length of weave structures.
State the type of weft insertion which has
the lowest production rate.
Shuttle.
State the three stages of printing
process.
Transfer; fixation; wash of
State the name of chemical needed to attach
pigments to the fibre materials.
Binder
What term describes a fabric’s ability
to recover from being compressed?
Resilience
What fibre/filament property
determines how soft it will be?
Fineness
Put the following cottons in order
from most to least expensive:
Sea Island > Egyptian > American
Which fibre requires pesticides, insecticides, herbicides + fungicides to grow?
Conventional cotton
Name the 2 types of standard yarn
that wool can be made into:
Woollen and worsted
Which type of yarn made from wool is
traditionally used in good quality suits?
Worsted
Name the type of fabric produced
weft knitting machines with 1 needle
bed.
Single jersey (sometimes plain knit)
Name the type of fabric produced weft
knitting machines with 2 needle beds.
Double jersey (rib, interlock and purl)
State the part name of a weaving loom
used to control the sett of warp yarn.
Reed.
Which weave structure provides the
best abrasion resistance?
Plain weave.
Describe what ‘Mass coloration’
means.
Pigments or dyes are mixed with the
molten polymer before extrusion.
State one feature of late stage dyeing.
Too late to correct unlevelness; or
garments may be dyed to popular
fashion colours as required; or quick
response to orders is possible.
How fine (in microns) is a fine fibre?
Less than 18µ
State the standard international unit
for measuring filament and yarn count
Tex
What is flax known as once it is spun/
woven/knitted?
Linen
Name 2 bast fibres.
2 of: linen, hemp, jute, ramie, nettle
Which type of yarn, traditionally made
from wool, is used to knit warm
jumpers?
Woollen spun
Which type of yarn is smoothest and most slippery (ideal for linings)?
Flat multi-filament yarn
What is a ‘transfer stitch’?
A loop that is moved to a different
needle once it has been knitted
Name 2 uses of ‘transfer stitches’.
Shaping knitted panels, patterning (e.g.
lace and cables) or integral knit
Describe one of the weaving actions
‘beat up’.
Pulling ‘reed’ towards weaver to add
new pick to the finished cloth.
State one essential property of warp
yarn for a woven cloth.
Uniform; or strong, relatively high
twist; or evenly coated with size; or
equal tension from warp beam
State the solvent used as printing
paste ingredient.
water.
State the pH condition of dye bath
when dying wool using acid dye.
Acidic condition.
What is meant by a ‘blend’ of fibres?
Different fibres of similar lengths have been
spun together in a yarn.
Why is it important to know the stiffness/
limpness of a fibre or fabric?
Because it affects fabric drape and thus
suitability for different garments/markets
What lustrous cellulosic fibre, used in suits,
shirts, dresses, etc., is very strong, durable,
cool, absorbent and creases easily?
Flax (linen)
Which fibre was canvas named after and
originally made from?
Hemp (cannabis sativa)
Increasing the twist in a yarn increases its?
Strength (also density, hardness, fineness)
Increasing twist in a yarn decreases its?
Warmth and softness (+ possibly hairiness)
Specify the type of yarn normally knitted on
very fine gauge knitting machines running
at high speeds.
Synthetic multi-filaments.
What fabric type cannot normally be
unravelled?
Warp knitted fabrics
Give names to the two plain weave
derivatives.
rib and hopsack
State the name of parts on a dobby loom
that control the raising and lowering of the
warp threads, creating the shed for the
weft to be inserted.
shafts.
Explain what is meant by ‘water-repellent’.
fabric is relatively resistant to surface
wetting, absorption or penetration of
water.
Explain ‘Waterproof’ property of a fabric.
Textile material that is fully resistant to
absorption or penetration of water.
Give 2 reasons why fibres might be blended
To reduce cost, improve durability/easycare/handle/appearance/marketability
Why are non-wovens cheaper than knitted
or woven fabrics?
They are made direct from fibre so spinning
costs are saved and very quick to make
What fibre are towels, bed sheets, curtains
and upholstery commonly made from?
Cotton.
What is the most common fibre blend
globally?
Cotton/polyester.
What impact does increasing fibre
alignment have on a yarn’s physical
properties?
It will be stronger and less warm.
What impact does increasing fibre
alignment have on a yarn’s appearance?
It will be finer and smoother
Name the lace fabric that has surface floats
making it look embroidered.
Fall-plate lace (Raschel knitted)
In warp knitting, what method is used to
deliver yarn at the same rate to all needles?
Guide bars deliver yarn from warp beams.
Explain ‘satin’ weave structure vs ‘sateen’.
Satin: long warp floats hide weft yarns.
Explain ‘sateen’ weave structure vs ‘satin’.
Sateen: long weft floats hide warp yarns.
Name the most important form of
industrial fabric printing.
Screen printing.
Name the most economical method of
printing for short runs.
Digital printing
Name 2 methods of making non-woven
fabrics.
Felting, mechanical entanglement, thermal
bonding, adhesive bonding, stitch bonding
Which fibres can be felted to make nonwoven fabric?
Wool (or hair fibres with scales)
What natural cellulosic fibre is considered
very environmentally friendly to grow?
Hemp
Which natural cellulosic fibre, traditionally
used to make ropes and sacking has been
largely replaced by polypropylene?
Jute.
What process increases the strength of
man-made filament yarn?
Drawing.
What process increases the bulk, warmth
and ‘natural handle’ in filament yarns?
Texturising.
What method is used to deliver yarn at
different rates to different needles in warp
knitting?
Yarn supplied through guide bar from creel.
What fibre/filament type is easier to warp
knit than weft knit because of the method
of yarn delivery and stitch formation?
Elastane filaments.
State the five actions of weaving process.
Warp let-off, shedding, picking, beat up,
fabric take up.
Explain the ‘shedding’ process.
the opening formed when some
shafts/warp yarns lift and others lower.
Dyes and Pigments, which one is used more
commonly in printing of textiles?
Pigments.
Easy-care finishes is used for cotton or
polyester fabric?
Cotton.
What type of fibres can be thermally
bonded?
Thermoplastic (or synthetic).
Inter-fibre friction is an essential fibre
characteristic for what type of non-woven
production method?
Mechanical entanglement.
Nettle, jute, hemp and flax are examples of
which 2 specific categories of fibre?
Bast fibres and natural cellulosic.
Name the most popular fine wool fibre.
Merino wool.
What optional process for filament yarns
makes them easier to knit, weave and sew?
Texturising.
What type of yarn is ideal for use in lining
materials?
Flat multi-filament yarns.
State 2 of the preparatory processes
necessary for warp knitting.
Warping, drawing, make pattern wheels.
Why is it normal to buy warp knitted fabric
from stock rather than unique designs?
Long set up times make only long
production runs economic.
Explain ‘colour and weave effect’.
Woven fabrics which pattern through using
warp and weft yarns in various predetermined colour combinations.
State dyeing conditions used for polyester
using disperse dye.
Under pressure at 130o
C in specialised
dyeing equipment.
What textile end-uses need flame
retardancy finishing?
Upholstery and furnishings, children’s
nightclothes
Which non-woven method of production is
commonly used to make composites?
Stitch bonding.
What is reclaimed wool called?
Shoddy.
What good quality fibre normally comes
from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa?
Merino wool.
Which type of filament yarn is most
commonly used in clothing?
Textured multi-filament yarns.
Which type of filament yarn is least
commonly used in clothing?
Mono-filament yarns.
Why do compound knitting needles knit
faster with fewer faults than latch needles?
Lower clearing height.
What is the name for knitwear made from
panels knitted to size and shape.
Fully-fashioned knitwear
Give two commercial names of woven
fabric made through ‘colour and weave
effect’.
Tartan, gingham, check a brat, etc.
Crepe fabric is made yarns with low or high
number of twist?
High number of twist.
Screen and digital printing, which one gives
high depths of shade?
Screen printing.
Name any 2 types of screen printing?
Hand screen, rotary screen, semi-automatic
and fully-automated flatbed printing
Which combination of physical properties is
difficult to achieve in non-woven fabric?
High strength/durability with good drape.
What is most common method of making
textiles into insulation materials?
Thermally bonded (in oven) non-wovens
Which natural fibre types are weak but
durable, warm and has good elasticity?
Natural protein fibres, wool and hair fibres.
Which fibre type is resilient and wears
attractively making it ideal for carpets?
Wool.
The name given to a yarn with loops along
its surface is?
Bouclé yarn.
Name the yarn type that has lumps of fibre
along its length.
Slub yarn, knop yarn or bourette yarn.
What is the name for seamless knitwear
garments knitted in one piece.
Wholegarment knitwear.
Which type of knitting is commonly used to
knit garments to shape?
Weft knitting (fully-fashioned/wholegarment)
Give one name of woven fabric based on
the types of weave loom used it is made
from.
Jacquard fabric or hand loom made cloth
Give two variations/types of twill structure.
Herringbone, Diamond
Milling process is used for wool or cotton
fabric?
Wool.
Explain the ‘stenter’ process.
Fabric passes horizontally through a
succession of chambers at different
temperatures.
Name 2 important characteristics of
disposable textiles.
Cheap, compostable/biodegradable.
What is the name for non-woven fabrics, used
in composites, with fibres orientated in
different directions for high strength.
Multi-axial non-wovens.
Name the only naturally occurring textile
filament.
Silk.
What is the name of the filament/fibre taken
from open-ended cocoons?
Wild, freedom or tussah silk.
Lingerie, tights and active sportswear are
most commonly made from what type of
yarn?
Textured multi-filament yarns (with elastane)
The collective name given to bouclé, knop,
chenille and jaspé yarns is?
‘Fancy’ yarns.
Weft knitted fabrics with face and reverse
stitches in the same wale are called?
Purl fabrics
Name the stretchy weft knitted fabric
structure with face and reverse stitches in the
same course on both sides of fabric.
Rib fabrics.
Plain, twill and satin, which weave structure
provides a woven fabric highest tear
strength?
Satin.
Plain, twill and satin, which weave structure
provides the best dimensional stability of a
woven fabric?
Plain
Reactive dyes are water soluble, is it used
dying cotton or polyester?
Cotton
Disperse dyes are only partially soluble in
water, is it used for dyeing wool or polyester?
Polyester.
Which fabric type can be used to make
nappies, durable ‘paper’ and geotextiles?
Non-wovens.
What are ‘spun-laced’, ‘dry-laid’ and ‘meltblown’ examples of?
Non-woven fabric construction methods.
What filament is around 1µ and holds 1/3 its
weight in moisture without feeling wet?
Silk.
What filament is commonly associated with
luxury ties, lingerie, shirts and dress?
Silk
Name the yarn type that looks like thin
ribbons of velvet.
Chenille yarn.
Folding yarns increases their regularity and
therefore?
Strength (and fabric uniformity/productivity).
Name the weft knitted fabric structure that is
most commonly used, tends to curl and has
different appearance front to back.
Plain knit (or single jersey).
Which weft knitted stitch type is used to add
texture, weight and/or warmth to fabric?
Tuck stitches.
‘Colour effect’ and ‘weave structure’ which
one affects woven fabric property?
Weave structure
Satin and sateen, which structure is selected
when natural staple fibre yarns is used?
Sateen.
Thickener and softener, which one is not
component of printing paste?
softener
Rotary screen, flat-bed screen and digital
printing, which one gives the fastest
production for long runs?
Rotary screen
printing
Apparel is the main end-use for textile fibres,
name the 2 other major end-uses.
Interiors and technical/industrial
Name any 2 ‘technical’ end-uses for textiles
Any 2 of geotextiles, medical, hygiene, transport
(tyre cords, brake pads, carbon fibre wings,
etc.), belting, filters, composites
Which fibre is soft (fibre fineness 10-20µ),
absorbent, can be boil washed but creases in
laundry and is slow to dry?
Cotton
Which fibre is the major component in Tshirts, socks, sweatshirts, shirts and jeans?
Cotton
What spinning processes result in the
strongest, finest, smoothest cotton yarns?
Combing and ring spinning
How ‘Tex’ is defined?
Weight of 1000 meter yarn.
Name the warp knitting machine with high
productivity that knits simple fabrics.
Tricot warp knitting machine.
Name the warp knitting machine that is
optimised for knitting fancy fabrics including
lace and nets.
Raschel warp knitting machine.
State the name of weave structure gives 3D
surface effect.
Honeycomb
State the name of weave structure which can
provide good drape of a woven fabric.
Satin or sateen.
State the name of a mechanical finishing
process that is used to give fabric a desirable
softness and a bulky handle (‘fulling’).
Raising.
State the name of a wet finishing process that is
used to improve cotton surface lustre.
Mercerisation.
Define the term ‘elastic recovery’?
How much a textile returns to its original
dimensions after extension.
Explain what ‘pilling’ is.
Little bobbles of fibre that form on the
surface of a fabric.
What specific fibre is a cross between Giza
and American cotton, producing a long, fine
(and soft) fibre.
Pima cotton.
What fibre is grown, pulled, retted,
skutched and hackled before spinning?
Flax (linen)
Name the spinning process for wool-length
fibres resulting in hairy, warm yarns.
Woollen spinning.
Name the spinning process for wool-length
fibres that combs/aligns fibres to make
stronger, leaner, finer and cooler yarns.
Worsted spinning.
Name the warp knitted fabric with 2 ‘face
fabrics’ and yarns zig-zagging between the
‘faces’ to create a gap between them.
Spacer fabric.
State 1 advantage of ‘simultaneous
knitting’ and state what it is.
Faster or more uniform stitches are formed
when all needles move together to knit.
Describe dobby weaving mechanism.
Groups of warp yarns are lifted by shafts.
Describe jacquard weaving mechanism.
Individual warp yarns are lifted.
State the name of a mechanical finishing
process that is used to improve surface lustre
of fabrics.
Calendaring.
Cotton and polyester, which one usually
needs antistatic finishing?
Polyester.
Why do environmental conditions and nutrition
have a significant impact on fibre price/quality?
Because they affect fibre fineness.
What is the ‘golden bale’ a competition for?
The world’s finest bale of wool (awarded
annually)
Whiteness, micronaire value, proportion of
immature fibres, low trash content, length and
fineness are all quality variables associated with
which fibre?
Cotton
What is the main issue associated with a high
proportion of immature cotton fibres when
spinning?
A high nep (small knots) count leading to
irregular (lumpy) yarns.
Explain how elastane is combined with other textiles
to improve their elastic recovery (can it be blended?
How is it incorporated?)
Elastane must be used as a filament, so it cannot be
‘blended’ but can be used as a covered or un-covered
filament yarn (and knitted or woven with other yarns
to make fabric) or it can be made into a composite
yarn where elastane filaments form the yarn core and
other fibres or filaments are wrapped around it
What niche fibre is noted for its lustre and use in
car hoods and hairy knitwear/woven fabric?
Mohair.
Name the company/marketing brand that
specifies and audits the performance and quality
of textiles licensed to use its logo?
Woolmark
What increases breathing problems in workers,
machine down time and cross-contamination
leading to fabric faults?
Fibre fly in spinning.
Name 2 fibre/filaments that are melt spun.
Any 2 of: nylon, polyester, elastane,
polypropylene, polyethylene
Why are production rates of synthetic fabrics
normally higher than those of fabrics made from
natural fibres?
Because synthetics are stronger and can
withstand higher tensions in processing.
Name 2 thermoplastic fibre/filaments and 2 that
are not thermoplastic.
Thermoplastic: nylon, polyester, elastane,
polypropylene, polyethylene
Not thermoplastic: cotton, wool, silk, viscose (any
natural or cellulosic)
Explain why 10 denier tights are transparent and
100 denier tights are opaque.
10 denier tights are made from yarn that weighs
10g/9000m so is thinner than 100 denier yarn but
loop sizes are similar so there are gaps between
yarn/loops.
Which man-made textile is nearly always used in
fibre form (not filament) and is most commonly
used as a replacement for wool?
Acrylic
Which is the most popular textile material
(fibre/filament) in the world?
Polyester
Which man-made fibre/filament has excellent
drape and takes strong dyes very well?
Viscose (or rayon, same thing)
Which man-made textile is commonly used in
‘intimate apparel’ (underwear) because of its
good comfort properties and high strength?
Nylon
What fibre is finer than 18.5µ and combed from
goats yielding about 110g/goat/year?
Cashmere.
State the maximum thickness of a ‘fine’ fibre?
18µ
Which man-made material must ALWAYS be
used in filament form?
Elastane
Which man-made material is commonly used in
sportswear because it has good strength,
durability and wicking properties?
Polyester
Which man-made material is most commonly
blended with cotton to make ‘easy-care’ textiles
such as shirts and bedlinen?
Polyester
Name the man-made material that is considered
highly sustainable and environmentally friendly.
Lyocell
Which textile fibre/filament is NEVER used in
pure form? (is always used with other fibres)
Elastane
Flat, mono- and multi- are terms associated with
what?
Filament yarns
Alpaca, vicuna, mohair and cashmere are
examples of which type of fibre?
Animal/protein hair fibres.
What rare animal fibre is the finest and most
expensive?
Vicuna (or less than 13µ merino)
Give two commercial names of tweed fabrics
Harris tweed, Scotch tweed
