Textile Culture Test Flashcards
1
Q
How do you recognize a vegetable fibre through a combustion test?
A
Smell is like burnt paper, rapid combustion and white/grey ash.
2
Q
How do you recognize an animal fibre through a combustion test?
A
Smell is like burnt hair, slow combustion and ashes like carbon and then becomes white/grey.
3
Q
How do you recognize a mineral fibre through a combustion test?
A
Smell is odorless, asbestos does not change and glass turns into a pearl.
4
Q
How do you recognize an acetate fibre through a combustion test?
A
Smell is like acid, rapid combustion and turns into a carbon pearl then becomes white/grey ash.
5
Q
How do you recognize a polyamide fibre through a combustion test?
A
Weak smell of burnt hair, melts at first then burns and leaves a glassy yellow-brown residue forming filaments.
6
Q
How do you recognize a polyurethane fibre through a combustion test?
A
Unpleasant smell of rat, melts then burns leaving a dark and hard residue.
7
Q
How do you recognize a polyacrylic fibre through a combustion test?
A
Smell is a sweet aromatic odor, melts and burns quickly then becomes soot and powdery black residue.
8
Q
How do you recognize a polyester fibre through a combustion test?
A
Smell is a sweet aromatic pungent odor, melts and burns then becomes soot and glassy yellow-brown residue with filaments.
9
Q
How do you recognize a polyethylene fibre through a combustion test?
A
Smells like burning paraffin, melts then burns and becomes brown powdery residue.
10
Q
How do you recognize a polypropylene fibre through a combustion test?
A
Smell is like burning paraffin, melts without burning and becomes white smoke and yellow-brown residue.
11
Q
What is knitting?
A
Knitting is the ancient process of manufacturing a fabric by the intermeshing of continuous loops of yarns, using needles.
12
Q
How do you define the size of the needles used in knitting?
A
By the term “gauge”.
13
Q
What does knitting consist of?
A
It consist of both horizontally and vertically intertwined stitches called courses and whales.
14
Q
What does the density and rigidity of the fabric depend on, in knitting?
A
It depends on the number of whales and courses in a certain length, by the thickness of the needles and yarns.
15
Q
What are the qualities of a knitted fabric?
A
Flexible and adaptable to the body shape. Extensible and crease resistant. It is also soft, air permeable and cost efficient.
16
Q
Explain weft knitting.
A
Stitches creating rows that are called courses (horizontal) and whales (vertical).
17
Q
Explain warp knitting.
A
Created by interlocking the loops vertically along the length of the fabric. Machine-made fabric.
18
Q
What is jersey fabric?
A
It is a knitted fabric commonly used in clothing. Originally made with wool, but now a mix of cotton and synthetic jersey garments.
Can undergo the dyeing and finishing processes, even felting, just like wovens.
19
Q
What are some qualities of the jersey fabric?
A
Considerable stretchiness and close knit. Highly absorbent, breathable and drapy.
20
Q
Which garments are mostly made in jersey fabric?
A
Underwear, T-shirts and hoodies. Lately unlined jackets and coats.
21
Q
Describe how the jersey fabric is made.
A
- Creating fibres, by combining various chemicals.
- Knitting, loading onto an automated knitting machine.
- Twisting, knitting machine twists and combines yarn to create the structure.
- Dyeing, manufacturers dye fabric once it is finished.
22
Q
Describe the road map from fibre to fabric.
A
- Fibres to yarn.
- Spinning.
- Knitting.
- Weaving.
- Finishing of woven/knit fabric.
23
Q
What are the two main fibres under natural fibres?
A
Animal- and plant fibres.
24
Q
What are the two main fibres under man-made fibres?
A
Artificial- and synthetic fibres.
25
What are some animal fibres?
Wool, silk and cashmere.
26
What are some plant fibres?
Cotton, flax/linen and hemp.
27
What are some artificial fibres?
Rayon, viscose and lyocell.
28
What are some synthetic fibres?
Acrylic, polyester and nylon.
29
What was the first milestone in fashion? (Prehistory)
Earliest humans protected and insulated their bodies with pelts of fur or animal hides.
30
What was one of the first milestones in the early 1700's, for fashion?
The eastern culture began its influence in Europe.
31
Who is Edmund Cartwright?
He invented the power loom in 1784.
32
What happened in 1759?
France began to dominate women's fashion, while Great Britain dominated men's fashion.
33
When was the roller printing invented?
The year 1785.
34
When was the first sewing machine used, and who invented it?
It was invented by Barthélemy Thimmonier, in 1829.
35
What did John Mercer patent in 1844?
He patented the mercerization process.
36
What are the two milestones in 1854?
Japan opened up to foreign trade and Eastern style came to the West.
37
When was the first commercial of synthetic organic dye?
In 1856.
38
When was the first viscose process?
In the year 1892.
39
What did DuPont invent?
In the year 1935 DuPont invented nylon (stockings).
40
What was launched in 1992?
Tencel/Lyoncell by Lenzing.
41
When was the spinning wheel invented, and where?
It was invented 500-1000, in India.
42
What did Pizzarro and Cortez discover in 1519?
They discovered cotton.
43
What is the six product development in the fashion industry?
1. Research.
2. Designing.
3. Sampling.
4. Testing.
5. Product development and manufacturing.
6. Sales.
44
How is fabric made?
It is made by intertwining perpendicular yarns through weaving.
45
What are some features of a fabric?
It is flexible, pressable and resistant.
46
What is the yarn count?
The measurement of a yarns thickness or preciousness.
47
What is color fastness?
The durability of the color.
48
Describe yarn-, piece- and garment dyed processes.
Yarn dyed: yarns being dyed into specific colors before being woven.
Piece dyed: fabric dyed before it is cut into a finished garment.
Garment dyed: dyeing fabric after it has been cut and sewn into garment.
49
What is a fabric detail sheet?
It is for the sake of your own, to see all the necessary information about the fabric you are working with.
50
What is textile-fibre?
It is a unit of article capable of being spun into yarns.
51
What is the cotton purifying stages?
1. Opening, cleaning and cake formation.
2. Scouring.
3. Purifying.
4. Fibre finishing.
5. Opening and drying.
52
What are some features of cotton?
Resistant, skin friendly, allows perspiration and sterilizable.
53
Where are some origins of cotton?
Sea Island, Egypt, Brazil, Peruvian, India and Upland.
54
How is the mercerizing process of cotton?
Treated cold with sodium hydroxide.
55
What is linen?
It is a plant called flax and is a bast fibre.
56
What are some features of linen?
Reflects ultraviolet rays, anti-odor, durable, sturdy and color-stable.
57
What is one of the strongest natural fibres?
Hemp.
58
Who invented the carding and breeding of wool?
The Romans.
59
Which are the main producers of wool?
Australia, New Zeeland and China.
60
Where can cashmere be found?
On the downy under layer of hair on a goat.
61
How is the fibre of wool described?
Fine, light, warm and preciuos.
62
What are some features of mohair?
It is soft, strong, elastic, white, smooth, high tensile strength and is crease resistant. It has a white lustrous, shiny fibre.
63
What color is used in camel hair garments?
The natural color of the fibre.
64
What is a weave?
It is the way warp and weft interlaces.
65
What are the three basic weaves?
Plain, twill and satin weave.
66
What are the features of silk?
It is soft, supple, sturdy and light.
67
Describe the silk life cycle.
Eggs, hatchlings, larvae, pupa, adult.
68
What are some types of silk?
Royal, Mulberry, Schappe, Burette and Tussah.
69
Describe the plain weave.
Basic, simplest and oldest weave where very single warp and weft yarns make a perfect one-by-one criss-cross pattern. It is very resistant and stable and is used in all fibres.
70
What is twill weave?
It is a interlacing pattern that forms a diagonal line which can go right- or left hand twill. It offers greater weight, wrinkle resistance and drape.
71
How is satin weave described?
It is a very basic weave that does not have any regular pattern. There is a wider alternation of the crossing between warp and weft.
72
What is synthetic fibre?
It is made from polymers, which is chains of small units of hydrocarbons derived from petroleum.
73
What is artificial fibres?
It is when a basic natural ingredient is converted into fibre with a chemical intervention.
74
What are three different spinning cycles used for synthetic fibres?
Wet, dry and melt spinning.
75
Which synthetic fibre is mostly used?
Polyester.
76
What are some features of polyester?
Moisture resistent, shape retaining, cheap, non-biodegradable, durable, low maintenance and cheap.
77
How are elastan yarns treated?
They are either twisted with other fibres or woven directly in the weaving fabric.
78
What is one fibre that is finer than any natural fibre, and is invisible to the naked eye?
It is the microfibre.
79
What is nylon referred to scientifically, and why?
Polyamide 6,6 or as polyamide-6, for the number of carbon atoms in a monomer unit.
80
Why was acrylic fibres invented?
In the 1950's they wanted to replace wool. So they invented acrylic fibres.
81
What are artificial fibres natural origin start?
Woop chips of tree pulp, straw, cotton linters.
82
What kind of process does artificial fibres go through?
They undergo a chemical processing which converts them into a viscous liquid ready for extrusion.
83
What was viscose meant to copy?
It was supposed to copy silk.
84
What are the features of viscose?
Dyes well, low tenacity and low elastic recovery.
85
How is rayon CUPRO manufactured?
Cellulose is mixed with copper and ammonia.
86
When was acetate invented, and by whom?
It was invented in the 1860s by Santino Mazzucchelli in Lombardy.
87
What is a monofilament?
It is a single yarn as produced from the spinnerette.
88
What is it called when monofilaments are twisted together?
It is called multifilament.
89
What are flakes?
They are a mass of filaments similar to that of natural fibres.
90
What are the purposes of carding and spinning?
Removes impurities, separates long and short fibres, blends, parallelizes fibres, removes short staples, evens out yarn structure and consolidate the yarn structure.
91
What is spinning?
It is the act of taking an animal fibre or vegetable fibre and twisting them to form a continuous, infinitely stretching yarn that is suitable for weaving.
92
What is carding?
It is when the mass of fibres are disentangled, parallelized along the length of the sliver or bat, andfurther removed of impurities. Same process is used to blend.
93
What does combing do?
It arranges the longer fibres into a flat bundle of fibres, all facing in one direction.
94
What is the process from fibre to sliver?
1. Opening the fibres.
2. Removing impurities.
3. Mixing the fibres.
4. Carding.
95
What are the different wool spinning?
Long and fine wool fibres are combed, and short/medium wool fibres are carded.
96
What is worsted wool?
It is the short fibres that are discarded, which then creates the worsted yarn.
97
What is drawing in spinning?
It helps to even the quantity of slivers.
98
What is the twisting process in spinning?
It binds fibres or yarns together in a continous strand giving resilience and strength.
99
What are the different directions in the twisting process of spinning?
When the twist is to the right it is described as Z twist. If it is to the left it is described as S twist.
100
How are single yarns formed?
They are formed by twisting fibres or filaments in one direction.
101
What is a filament yarn?
It is silk and man-made fibres.
102
How is a ply yarn described?
It is two or more single yarns twisted together to give strength and/or create multicolor/melange/mouliné yarns.
103
What happens after the final twisting?
It is the spinning, when the yarns are wound in cones or coils.
104
What is a melange yarn?
Yarn made by a various combinations of colors.
105
How is the vigoreaux yarn made?
It is made of irregularly dyed rovings.
106
What is jaspé yarn?
It is a three ply yarn, which has different colors.
107
How is mouliné yarn made?
It is made of two or more yarns of different contrasting colors.
108
Describe the slub yarn.
An uneven, irregular in section and thickness yarn, and/or made of different colors.
109
What is nubby yarn?
It is a flirregular yarn made of randomly in-twisted nubs.
110
How is the bouclé yarn made?
With three ply yarn, one of which is made of rings of curls at regular intervals along the length of the yarn.
111
How is the chenille yarn obtained?
It is obtained by inserting to one strand a chain in which a series of short fibres are coupled and tied together.
112
What is crepe yarn made of?
It is made of very closed twists all along the length of the yarn.
113
How is lame yarn obtained?
It is a man-made yarn that is obtained by using metal dyeing, to give metal effects to the yarns.
114
What is a yarns composition?
It identifies the features of the fibres.
115
What is a pure yarn made of?
It is made of one single fibre.
116
What is a blended yarn?
It is a yarn that is made of two or more different fibres. It is obtained during carding, twisting or combing different yarns.
117
What is tulle/netting?
It is a lightweight, very fine, soft flowy machine-made netting fabric. Usually made of nylon, or silk, rayon.
118
What is the evolution from spinning to weaving considered to be?
The evolution is considered to be very slow.
119
How are the modern weaving principles, compared to the antique ones?
They are considered the exact same.
120
What are different ways to make fabric?
Weaving, knitting, netting, non-wovens and others (lace, braiding, knotting, crocheting, felting).
121
What does weaving consist of?
1. Winding.
2. Warping.
3. Sizing.
4. Drawing in.
5. Weaving.
6. Greige quality control.
122
What is the winding phase?
It is when the yarn from the spinner's package is transferred into a cheese, cone or spool, under proper tension and in proper manner.
123
How is the warping phase described?
Warp sheet of desired length containing a desired number of yarns are wrapped on a flanged barrel. Tension is kept within a given tolerance level throughout the wrapping of the wrap beam process.
124
What is the sizing phase?
Warp is coated with elastic films that bind fibres of yarns and reduces fluff or hairiness. Yarns can resist the mechanical strain in weaving process, and/or maintain or improve weaving efficiency.
125
What is the drawing in phase?
it is the process of threading each end through the drop wire, heddles and the reed.
126
What is selvedge?
It is the rim at both ends of the width holding warp and weft together. Can also be woven with lettering.
127
What is the Bias Grain in a fabric?
It is when the woven fabric is turned on a 45 degree angle, and the warp and weft are diagonal.
128
How do you identify a jacquard fabric?
By its complex patterns and weaves, using one or more color. No front and back side.
129
Who invented the jacquard fabric, and when?
Joseph-Marie Jacquard, in 1801
130
What is so special about the jacquard fabric?
It is one of the major inventions in the textile history. Being the first application of a punched card, it is considered to be the forerunner of the calculator.
131
Describe the jacquard loom.
Heald shafts do not exist. In this loom you can weave more weaves at the same time. In it a relevant number of yarns (up to 1200) may shift independently, allowing yarns to move singularly and thus creating curves and complex patterns.
132
What is it called after weaving the fabric?
It is called greige.
133
What does the finishing of a fabric depend on?
- The fibre/s composition.
- End use of the fabric.
134
Tell the finishing processes and what they are.
- Mechanical, using friction, temperature, pressure, tension etc.
- Chemical, using natural or synthetic chemicals which bind fibre in a permanent or temporary way.
- Both.
135
What are some dry mechanical finishing processes?
- Calendering.
- Sueding/Sanding/Emerizing.
- Napping.
- Flocking/Shearing.
- Singeing.
136
What is calendering and what is it used on?
It is when the fabric is compressed by passing between two or more rollers under controlled conditions of time, temperature and pressure. This is to alter its handle, surface texture and appearance. Fabrics used in this process is moire to produce its watered effect and also on cambric, also some sateens to become shinier.
137
What is the polishing process?
Similar to calendering with the addition of waxes or polishing material to obtain sheer, luster aspect. Mostly used for hair wools.
138
What is embossing?
Making raised figures or designs that are produced on the surface of the fabrics. By passing the fabric between heated engraved rollers.
139
Describe moireing.
It is done through ridged rollers that produce a waved or watered effect on a textile fabric. It becomes a permanent design. Except on rayon and silk.
140
What is raising, and what types of processes are there?
This is to obtain a hairy surface. There is napping, which gives a deep hairy surface. Then sanding/emerizing, which gives a suede like surface.
141
Describe the shearing process.
It refers to the process of trimming the pile on a fabric to a desired height. It gives an attractive and smooth surface to the fabric.
142
What is the process for imitating animal furs called?
It is called casentino, and is done by applying friction and pressure to the hairs of a fabric. This is to obtain flocks, knots, waves etc.
143
What is singeing?
It removes hairiness from fabrics, to obtain a clean surface by brushing or through the use of a flame.
144
What is wet calendering?
The fabric is passed between calender rollers with a lot of pressure and with the use of steam.
145
What is fulling?
It is the process that increases the thickness and compactness of woven or knitted wool. Done by subjecting it to moisture, heat, friction and pressure until shrinkage of 10-15%.
146
What kind of fabric is felt?
It is a fabric obtained through mechanical (friction) and chemical action (soaps).
147
Why is sanforization important and what is done in the process?
It stabilizes the fabric and prevents it from further shrinkage after sale. It is done by pressing the wet or steamed cloth several times. Letting the shrinkage be caused and fixed several times.
148
What is decatizing?
It is when the fabric interleaved with a cotton canvas wrapper forming an endless belt, is wound tightly round a perforated roller. While steam is passed under pressure.
149
What is degumming used for?
It helps silk loose its weight up to 25%, because of the removal of sericin.
150
What is the enzyme treatment?
It is a bio-friendly and non-toxic process that reduces the use of vast amount of water. To improve print quality, make softer and also give cleaner surfaces.
151
What does the plasma finishing do?
It modifies the surface of a fabric by air, oxygen, nitrogen, argon and carbon dioxide which is injected inside a reactor at a certain pressure and ionized by the presence of two electrodes between which is a high-frequency electric field. The structure of the fabric is modified.
152
What is the purpose of plasma finishing?
It gives better dyeing, reductions of water consumption in other processes, hydrophobic properties and high adhesion.
153
What is a lab dip?
It is a sample of fabric that has been dyed to your requirements. This is to get swatches of different colors.
154
What is a dye lot?
It is a record taken during the dyeing of the yarn. The purpose is to identify the yarn that received its coloration in the same vat at the same time.
