Test 7 Flashcards
Know how to clean/store tack and riding equipment
-All tack, rugs, riding equipment needs cleaning regularly. Make sure to check for any loose stitching, holes or general wear and tear.
-Bridles, saddles and everyday leather goods should be wiped over daily, thoroughly cleaned weekly, and oiled when necessary.
-Rugs must be washed, re-proofed (if waterproof turn out rugs) at least once a year.
-Store in vermin proof and waterproof containers, and warm environment. Rugs should be stored with moth preventatives.
-We clean tack to keep it comfortable for the horse, so sores are minimal, to prolong the life of the tack and avoid rotting.
How can you clean a cotton, fleece, stable rug, synthetic girth, numnah etc?
These can be washed in a washing machine but be careful to check temperature guides from manufacturers.
how to clean turn out rugs
these are normally sent away for cleaning and reproofing to your local saddler or specialist, but they can be done at home by hosing and scrubbing then left to dry and treated with a re-proofer (available from saddlery or DIY store).
how to clean bridles, saddles and other leather equipment
wiped over daily with a damp sponge then treated with saddle soap. Make sure to release all keepers to clean underneath. Once a week take the tack to pieces and give it a thorough clean, check stitching, condition. When needed (if leather is dry or needs some life putting back into it) apply oil after soaping. Wash bit with plain water and clean other metal parts with a specialist metal cleaner. For storage, clean thoroughly and wrap in cotton cloths.
Which breeds mane’s should you not pull
Native breeds - eg shetlands, welsh
Cobs may be hogged.
Know and demonstrate how to pull a mane
Equipment needed - body brush, pulling comb
-It is much better to pull a mane after exercise as this opens the pores and is more comfortable for the horse.
-Manes are pulled for appearance, for ease of plaiting, comfort for the horse if in regular work.
-The mane should lay on the side and be approx 4 inches long (when pulled).
-Brush the mane thoroughly. Starting at the withers take a few of the longer hairs in the fingers of one hand and push the remaining hairs up towards the crest using the comb. Wrap the few hairs around the comb and with a firm pull remove the hairs. Work carefully up towards the poll. Once you have completed the first run you can go back and start again. For the forelock use the same technique. Do not try to pull a mane all in one day but take several sessions as thus will be more comfortable for the horse and he will not get restless.
Plait a mane using a needle and thread for some plaits and elastic bands for others
-For showing always sew your plaits. Dressage horses are often seen with bandettes in their manes.
-Equipment used- body brush, water brush, mane comb, needle, plaiting thread, elastic bands, water and blunt-ended scissors.
-Plait for showing, dressage, eventing and hunting.
-Always plait in the morning of the show - don’t leave in overnight as the horse may rub its mane.
-Plait on the horse’s off side, uneven number of plaits down neck and one in forelock.
-Plait for appearance, or to lay a mane that won’t lie on the correct side (this is just plaited down and not rolled up and they would be looser as they would be in for a longer period of time.)
how to plait a mane
-Brush mane thoroughly. Starting at withers or poll, divide mane equally into bunches using elastic bands. Take elastic band out of first plait, damp, dived into three equal parts.
-For bands - Plait down and secure the bottom with elastic band. Roll up towards crest and secure by putting another elastic band round the entire plait.
-For thread - After dividing plait place a length of thread onto the centre section and plait down. Secure the end by wrapping thread around thee bottom, thread remainder onto a needle. Pass the needle up through the plait near the crest to double it. Stitch down the plait then double again then stitch sideways into the middle with thread passed under the plait to finish.
examples of ‘bringing a horse up’
-A hunter who has been turned out for the summer
-An event horse that has had the winter off
-A horse who has been resting because of injury
the method for ‘bringing a horse up’ after rest to get ready for the competition season
start - at least 6 weeks before any competition work.
If we are careful to bring a horse into work ready for competition in the correct way we are sure to have a fit, well and happy horse who is sound in wind and limb. A steady build up in work will tone up muscles, tendons and ligaments. The horse should have a shine to its coat, bright eyes and display all signs of good health.
Fittening - Start by walking work for approximately 2 to 3 weeks, working up from 20 minutes to 1 1/2 hours. Check for girth galls and sore backs particularly at this stage as the horse will be in a ‘soft’ condition. Salt water or surgical spirit will help to harden skin in vulnerable areas before bruising appears and meticulous cleaning sweat and dirty areas of the horse’s body will help to prevent this, as will making sure the numnahs and girths are cleaned daily.
After 2 weeks introduce trotting in small amounts, with a good walk between times. Beware of trotting older or previously leg injured horses on the road or hard surfaces too much.
Hills are really good taken at an active walk to build up muscles. Introduce fast work schooling and small amounts of canter after 4-5 weeks. After a 6 week period your horse (and rider) should be fit to start small competitions and general hacking. To become eventing, hunting or endurance fit will take a further 6 to 8 weeks of more intensive and faster work to. clear his wind and tone muscles fully for more demanding work. This will need to be done gradually allowing the horse time to recover his breathing after canter and faster work.
important notes for ‘bringing a horse up’
a. Do not immediately start hard feeding your horse, gradually introduce feed as horse gets fitter.
b. A horse that has been turned out will find the confines of a stable 24 hours a day too much and could suffer from circulatory problems, stable vices or stiffen up. The horse should be brought into stable for short periods each day, gradually building up length of time he is left in. Make sure the stable is well ventilated and free from dust.
c. Do not clip your horse until about 2 weeks into programme although light rugs can be used.
d. Always make sure your horse is warmed up sufficiently before progressing to trot to canter, this is essential for loosening and warming up the muscles.
e. School work can be introduced just before or after canter work but do not ask for tight turns or lateral work until your horse is fit.
f. Exercise encourages bone to increase in strength and become more dense. It also gradually improves the supply of blood to the muscles and the efficient use of oxygen.
g. Never miss out the walking phase.
h. Check your horse’s respiration throughout the programme to make sure his breathing quickly returns to normal.
i. Always check your horses’s legs which should be free from swelling, cool and firm. If they do not appear normal you may have progressed too quickly with your programme or you may have been overfeeding.
Know the method for ‘letting a horse down’ after the competition/hunting season
The letting down can differ depending on the type of horse, the weather, the work the horse is in.
If the horse is being turned out for the winter allow mane, tail and coat to grow. If the horse is being turned out for the summer make sure it is gradually turned out for longer periods each day so the stomach gets used to the grass intake.
Start reducing concentrates (hard feeds) and increase roughage (bulk ie hay). Reduce amount of expertise gradually (stop all schooling, fast work, jumping straight away). If rugged reduce the amount of rugs or thickness - to encourage coat to grow. Remove shoes or at least hinds. Get vaccinations up to date, worming, teeth etc.
If the horse is used to being in day and night it would be best to turn out first in a small paddock after exercise so it does not race around too much (brushing boots and over reach boots should be used for protection).
If the horse is used to being turned out, even for a short time, gradually increase the time out. This process should take approximately 2 weeks.
NOW is a good time to check all your tack is in good order, your rugs are repaired and cleaned, your jackets are sent to the cleaners etc. It its also a good time to whitewash the stables, creosote, paint and generally get everything shipshape for next season.
Apply exercise bandages
Exercise bandages are made from very stretchy material, normally cotton/elastic mix. They are approximately 4 inches wide and 6-7 feet long. Exercise bandages should always be used with Gamgee, frybagee or similar underneath for extra protection and support and to ensure that the bandages and/or tape should not be overtight or left on for long periods of time as this may cause injury.
They are used for cross country, show jumping, and general riding. If using for competition, secure the bandage with tape.
Apply from below the knee to the fetlock joint, to give support and protection. In muddy conditions the mud is likely to work its way under the bandages thus causing irritation or sores.
Wrap gamgee/frybagee round leg then apply exercise bandage, make sure the end at the top is long, this helps keep the bandage firm. Apply the bandage firmly and evenly - so pressure is constant throughout bandage.
Describe the procedure for detecting lameness
Make sure there is someone available to walk and trot the horse up, so you can watch the movements from front, side and back. The leader must lead from the shoulder on a loose rein so that movement from the head can be seen clearly.
You are looking for a reluctance to put weight on the lame leg, nodding, uneven movement.
Make sure the surface you use is flat and level.
To tell-
a. If in a front limb or foot - the horse will raise his head when he puts the lame leg to the ground to try to keep as much weight as possible off this leg. When the horse puts its sound leg to the ground it will drop its head.
b. If in a hind limb/foot - the horse will drop one quarter lower and raise one higher - this is more difficult to detect.
Have knowledge of minor ailments and know the treatment for them
Make sure to have a full first aid kit available and replenish frequently. Vet’s telephone number should always be on hand. Have knowledge of the symptoms, causes and treatment of the following ailments and injuries.
a. wounds - contusions, incisions, lacerations and puncture wounds
b. girth galls
c. cracked heels
d. bruised soles
e. mud fever
f. nail bind
g. interfering - a term used for any problem caused by faulty action such as brushing, over reaching, speedy cut. Treat as you would a minor wound but remember it will be bruised as well.
h. laminitis
i. navicular
j. thrush
k. quittor
l. lice
m. sweet itch
n. ringworm
o. equine influenza
p. whistling and roaring
q. ring bone
r. side bone
s. splints
t. spavins
u. windgalls
v. thoroughpin
w. capped hock, knee, elbow
x. curb
y. strained tendon
z. filled legs
aa. colic
ab. azoturia
ac. sand crack
ad. grass crack
