Test #3 chapters 7,8,11

Question 1

Relatively small local waves?

Answer 1

Chop

Question 2

Larger waves often caused by your average storm, wave period of 10-30secs?

Answer 2

Swell

Question 3

Seiches

Answer 3

Standing waves in estuaries and Harbors, great lakes

Question 4

Wind generated waves are controlled by which 4 factors?

Answer 4

Wind velocity, wind duration, fetch, OG sea state

Question 5

the area of water over which wind blows?

Answer 5

fetch

Question 6

Waves will grow in size until they reach THIS term, which is the max size determined by wind and fetch

Answer 6

Fully developed sea. Waves are at the max height because the energy supplied by wind equals the energy lost

Question 7

Stokes drift or mass transport explain?

Answer 7

Waves dont move water forward mostly energy is what gets moved. The water particles actually form an open orbit with a net displacement of water in the direction of wave advance

Question 8

Deep water wave?

Answer 8

A Wave moving through water that is deeper than the wave base

Question 9

Intermediate wave

Answer 9

Wave moving through water depths between 1/2 the wavelength and 1/20 the wavelength

Question 10

Shallow wave

Answer 10

Wave that moves through water less than 1/20 of the total wavelength

Question 11

Spilling Breaker??

Answer 11

Wave that crest is oversteepened and continually spills down the front side of the wave continually breaking. Slowly loses energy over time

Question 12

Plunging Breaker?

Answer 12

Entire wave front collapses and curls over the crest releasing much energy at once

Question 13

Surging breaker

Answer 13

flat, low waves that dont break or become oversteepened. They move smoothly reflecting energy seaward

Question 14

Standing waves?

Answer 14

Stationary waves that dont move horizontally but oscillate back and forth on a fixed point called a node

Question 15

Internal Wave

Answer 15

occuring underwater, moving along the pycnocline (seperations of water density zones)

Question 16

Tidal range

Answer 16

The wave height of the tide

Question 17

Diurnal Tide

Answer 17

a tide peruod of about a day; one high one low tide in a day. Occurs in High latitudes

Question 18

Semidiurnal tides

Answer 18

Tides occuring twice a day in low Latitudes

Question 19

Mixed tides?

Answer 19

Tides along the pacific vary irregularly twice daily. Occurs in the midlatitudes

Question 20

neap tides

Answer 20

Tidal range is at its minimum

Question 21

Spring tides

Answer 21

When the tides are at its highest