Terminology Flashcards
A snow/ice anchor fashioned from the medium itself by carving a U-shaped trench, opening downward, and sculpting a lip onto its lower wall to hold rope or slings in place
Bollard
To pull and snap your way up on the tensioned rope while your belayer sits back to reel in slack (he can also lock himself off on the device, up off the ground, and let gravity do the work). This gets you back to your high point after a lead fall off a overhanging route
Boink
Generic for any wide (1.5 inches or more) piton used on a similarly sized crack. Bongs often have drilled holes to make them lighter
Bong Piton
To lean horizontally (sideways) off a hold, often a crack, and walk the feet high in opposition
Lieback
A prominent feature that juts out from a rock or mountain
Buttress
- A small ridge-like feature or a sharp outward facing corner on a steep rock face
- A snowy, rocky, or icy mountain ridge or crest, often glacially sculpted. On rock it can be a 90 degree outside corner, i.e., the cleaved edge where two cliff facets meet at a right angle like a building corner
Arete
To clip a rope backward into a QuickDraw
Backclip
A belay/rappel Ice anchor made by using an ice screw to drill two holes at a v angle, and then feeding webbing through with a small wire hooking tool
V-Thread
A three to four foot sling with bartacked (sewn) three inch clip-off pockets that enables a climber to anchor in, independent of he climbing rope
Daisy chain
An inside corner of rock, with more than a 90-degree angle between the faces.
Dihedral
An area of large rock fragments on a mountainside that may vary from house-size to as small as a small backpack. The area, if older and consolidated, may be stable, or the rocks may be precariously balanced. Talus is distinguished from scree in that it is larger and may feature solid interlocking of the rocks, while scree is by definition loose.
Talus field
runner/sling
A climb which receives a much lower grade than deserved. Also used as a verb when referring to the act of describing a climbing route as easier than it actually is.
Sandbag
An angled aluminium plate attached to a metal cable. The fluke is buried into snow, typically used as a deadman anchor.
snow fluke
An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke. Any object that is buried in order to make an anchor, or what you become if that anchor fails.
Deadman anchor
snow picket
ice ax
ice tool
To cleanly complete a route. i.e. on-sight, flash, redpoint
send
A clean ascent, with no prior practice or beta.
on sight
To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt after having received beta of some form.
flash
To complete while placing protection on a lead climb after making previous unsuccessful attempts, done without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging).
redpoint
A distinctive pile of stones placed to designate a summit or mark a trail, often above the treeline.
Cairn
A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe that can be used for chopping footholds.
Adze
An overhanging edge of snow on a ridge.
Cornice
Permanent granular ice formed by repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
neve
A long loop of accessory cord used to tie into multiple anchor points.
AMGA
American Mountain Guide Association
ACMG
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides
a water-worn ravine.
gully
part 1
gate
part 2
spine
part 3
basket
part 4
crotch or small end
part 5
nose
ATC guide
