Terminology Flashcards
No elevation haircut; One length
0° or Blunt Haircut
Medium elevation haircut; wedge
45° Haircut or Graduated Haircut
A uniform elevation haircut that provides movement
90° or Uniform-Layered Haircut
A haircut with increased long layers
180° or Long-Layered Haircut
An immune response or reaction to substances that are usually not harmful
Allergy
Abnormal hair loss
Alopecia
Patchy loss of hair occurring on the scalp or other parts of the body
Alopecia Areata
Severe case of alopecia areata where balding occurs over the entire head
Alopecia Totalis
Severe case of alopecia areata where balding occurs over the entire body
Alopecia Universalis
Surfactants that are very mild and compatible with all other surfactants
Amphoteric
The period of active hair growth
Anagen
Male or female pattern baldness
Androgenic Alopecia
The space formed in between the point where two lines join; combination of two straight lines joined together, producing various effects and qualities
Angle
A shampoo with a detergent base that is inexpensive, but has excellent deep cleansing abilities, and is easily rinsed from the hair
Anionic
An agent that prevents or reduces infection by eliminating or decreasing the growth of microorganisms; it can be applied safely to the skin
Antiseptic
The highest point of the head
Apex
A small, involuntary muscle located along the side of the hair follicle that is responsible for goose bumps
Arrector Pili Muscle
Rod-shaped, spore-producing bacteria
Bacilli
One cell microorganisms
Bacteria
Equal in proportion
Balance
A technique that creates curved lines in a haircut by cutting ends with a slight increase or decrease in length
Beveling
Infectious pathogenic microorganisms that are present in human blood or bodily fluids and can cause disease in humans; these pathogens include Hepatitis B (HBV) and HIV
Bloodborne Pathogens
A localized infection caused by staphylococci bacteria; similar to a furuncle but larger
Carbuncle
A cutting technique where the still blade is placed into the hair and the shears are partially opened and closed while moving through the hair
Carving
The period of break down and change of hair growth
Catagen
A type of surfactant that removes dirt from the hair shaft and provides softness and moisture
Cationic
Consists of seven vertebrae (bones) that make up the portion of the spinal column located in the neck
Cervical Vertebrae
A texturizing technique that removes larger sections of hair; creates movement in a perimeter design line by breaking up the weighted line
Chunking
A procedure using detergent and water to eliminate contamination of surfaces, tools, and/or skin; eliminates unseen debris that interferes with disinfection
Cleaning
Hair has a large diameter or width and feels thick
Coarse Texture
Circular-shaped bacteria that produce pus and can cause strep throat and blood poisoning
Cocci
Haircuts using two or more degrees
Combination Haircuts
Means that infections or diseases can be transferred from one person to another by contact
Contagious/Communicable
The presence of unclean materials or tools left on a surface
Contamination
A tuft of hair that stands up with a strong directional growth pattern
Cowlick
Covers the top and sides of the head and consists of 6 bones
Cranium
Parting the haircut in the opposite direction from which it was cut, to check for precision of line and shape
Cross-Checking
The upper back of the head
Crown
The tough outer protective covering of the hair
Cuticle
The removal of any infectious materials on tools or surfaces by following all sanitation and disinfection guidelines
Decontamination
Clean tools with warm, soapy water; removing visible debris. Next submerge in EPA-registered disinfectant; Decontamination Method 1
Disinfecting
Clean tools with warm soapy water; remove visible debris. Next place tools in a high-pressure steam unit (autoclave); Decontamination Method 2
Sterilization
Water that has had the metal ions and/or impurities removed through ion exchange process; purified water
Deionized Water
The number of hair strands per square inch on the scalp
Density
Small, cone shaped elevation at the base of the hair follicle filled with blood vessels
Dermal Papillae
Slanting line between horizontal and vertical lines
Diagonal Line
The thickness of a hair strand
Diameter
Spherical-shaped bacteria that grow in pairs and cause pneumonia
Diplococci
Independent lines that normally do not blend; having a defined break in the design
Disconnected Lines
Bacterial invasion of the body that disrupts a normal function of health
Disease
Any abnormality of bodily function; services can be performed with special product recommendations
Disorder
The technique of cutting around the hairline to create a clean line or design within a haircut; outlining or etching
Edging
The degree or angle by which the hair is lifted and combed in relation to the head; degree or projection
Elevation
A tendon that connects the Occipitalis and the Frontalis
Epicranial Aponeuerosis
The complete scalp; the muscles, skin, and aponeurosis; covering the skull
Epicranium
The broad muscle formed by the joining of the Frontalis and Occipitalis; Occipito-frontalis
Epicranius
The applied science concerned with designing and arranging things that people use so both (people and things) interact most efficiently and safely
Ergonomics
When you come in contact with broken skin, body fluid, blood or any other potentially infectious items while at work
Exposure Incident
The outer or external part
Exterior
Hair that is naturally shed or gathered from a brush and/or comb
Fallen Hair
Separating water from its mineral substances, such as magnesium, iron, calcium, or organic matter; water passes through a “filter-type trap,” encasing some minerals or particles, therefore producing less-contaminated water
Filtration
Hair has a small diameter/width that feels thin
Fine Texture
When the hair is susceptible to breakage; brittle hair
Fragilitas Crinium
Forms the forehead; starts at the top of the eyes, extending to the beginning curve of the head
Frontal Bone
The muscle that encompasses the forehead and extends into the beginning curve of the scalp
Frontalis
Members of a large group of organisms that include microorganisms, such as yeasts, molds, and mildews
Fungi
Boil or abscess of the skin located in the hair follicle
Furuncle
The direction the hair grows from the scalp
Growth pattern
The first section of hair that is cut to serve as a guide to determine the length and/or shape
Guideline
The rounded, club-shaped part of the hair located at the end of the hair root
Hair Bulb
A tube-like depression or pocket in the skin that contains the hair root from which the hair will grow
Hair Follicle
Hair growing in the same direction; creates a natural part
Hair Stream
Remains unaltered and contains an amount of dissolved minerals, such as calcium and magnesium; ex: well water
Hard Water
The angle at which your guest’s head is held during a procedure
Head Position
Lines parallel to the floor; opposite of vertical
Horizontal Lines
Substances added to conditioners to help the hair retain moisture
Humectant
“Water-loving”; easily absorbs moisture and capable of combining with or attracting water
Hydrophilic
The body’s ability to fight or defend against infection and disease
Immunity
The invasion of body tissues by disease-causing bacteria (pathogenic bacteria) or viruses
Infection
The inner or internal part
Interior
A guide that is inside the haircut, not around the hairline or perimeter; this will create less weight and more softness to the perimeter
Interior Guideline
A strong fibrous protein; the building block for hair, skin, and nails
Keratin
The process of converting living skin into hard proteins
Keratinization
The soft, white, and downy hair found on the body; usually lacking a medulla; Vellus Hair
Lanugo Hair
Large, flat, triangular muscle covering the lower back; helps to extend the arm away from the body and rotate the shoulder
Latissimus Dorsi
The basic lines used in haircutting are straight and curved. There are three types of straight lines: horizontal, vertical, and diagonal. Each line represents various movement and design options. Also known as the Edge or Division of a Shape
Line(s) of Haircutting
“Oil-loving”; having an attraction to fat and oils
Lipophilic
A naturally occurring fungus, sometimes known as pityrosporum ovale
Malassezia
Hair has an average width and thickness
Medium Texture
Usually a white substance that grows on the surface of things in wet, warm conditions, but does not cause human infections on the skin
Mildew
Condition causing beaded hair; Hair is weak before each node and easily broken
Monilethrix
Self-movement
Motility
The section of the head from the occipital bone to the hairline
Nape
The direction in which the hair moves or falls on the head
Natural Distribution
Bacteria that are not harmful
Non-pathogenic
When an item is made or constructed of materials that are not permeable/penetrated by water, air, or other fluids
Nonporus
A texturizing technique similar to point cutting but the cutting is done toward the ends rather than into them, creating a chunking effect
Notch cutting
The bone that covers the back of the head and sits directly above the nape
Occipital Bone
The muscle located in the nape of the neck that draws the scalp back
Occipitalis
A haircutting technique that positions the palms of your hands facing each other; prevents hair from being lifted up off your hand and the hair from being pushed out the front of the shears
Palm-to-Palm
Consistently traveling in the same direction at an equal distance apart
Parallel Lines
Disease caused by parasites, such as lice and itch mites
Parasitic Disease
Two bones, one on each side of the head, that form the entire crown and top sides
Parietal Bone
Largest curve of the head; it separates the interior of the head from the exterior of the head
Parietal Ridge
Bacteria that are harmful and cause disease
Pathogenic
Condition caused by the infestation of the hair and scalp caused by the parasitic insect, head louse
Pediculosis Capitis
Dandruff; dry type of dandruff characterized by white, lightweight flakes that either attach to the scalp in clusters or are scattered loosely within hair and eventually fall to the shoulders
Pityriasis
A severe case of dandruff, distinguished by excessive amounts of waxy or greasy scales that accumulate on the scalp in crusts; Seborrheic Dermatitis
Pityriasis Steatoides
The muscle that extends from the tip of the chin to the shoulder and lowers the jaw and lip
Platysma
The texturizing technique using the tips of the shears to cut into the ends of the hair to create multiple lengths that will blend within the hair ends
Point Cutting
Period of temporary hair loss that typically occurs after childbirth
Postpartum Alopecia
A condition caused by a microscopic mite, know as the itch mite
Scabies
Glands that produce sebum, an oily substance that lubricates the skin or scalp
Sebaceous Glands
Dividing areas of hair that can be managed and controlled
Sections/Sectioning
Directing the hair out of its natural fall; over-directed
Shifted Distribution
The skeletal structure that makes up the head and face; encases the brain; divided into two areas: cranium and face
Skull
A texturizing technique using a sliding movement down the hairshaft; used to remove bulk and add mobility within the haircut or for blending and framing areas around the face; also called slicing
Slithering
Water where the mineral content is dissolved and removed; ex: rain water
Soft Water
A wedge-shaped bone that joins all the bones of the cranium
Sphenoid
A spiral-shaped or curved bacteria
Spirilla
A set of guidelines published by the CDC that require an employer and employee to assume that all human blood and body fluids are infectious
Standard Precautions
Bacterial cells which form in clusters, like grapes, are pus-forming causing abscesses, pustules and boils
Staphylococci
A fixed guideline that does not move
Stationary Guideline
Long muscle that stretches from the back of the ear, along the side of the neck to the collar bone. It lowers and rotates the head.
Sternocleidomastoideus
Bacterial cells that grow in curved lines shaped into chains and may cause abscesses, pustules, and boils; cause infections such as blood poisoning and strep throat
Streptococci
A surface active agent or wetting agent that has the ability to dissolve in water and remove dirt from surfaces, such as hair; the ingredient in shampoo that causes lather
Surfactant
A cutting technique that blends hair from a shorter length at the perimeter to a longer length as it moves up the head; fading
Tapering
Resting phase of hair growth
Telogen
Premature or sudden hair loss
Telogen Effluvium
Two bones are on each side of the head that forms the lower side of the head
Temporal Bone
The temple muscle located above and in front of the ear that helps in opening and closing the mouth, as in chewing
Temporalis
Application of pressure applied while combing and holding the hair prior to cutting
Tension
Pigmented hair on the body
Terminal Hair
The diameter or width, quality, feel, and arrangement of individual hair strands within the overall hair structure; textures are described as fine, medium, and coarse
Texture
Techniques that help to blend lines or remove excess bulk without changing the shape of the haircut
Texturizing
A contagious condition caused by a fungal parasite; the technical term for Ringworm
Tinea
A superficial fungal infection that commonly affects the skin; the technical term for Barber’s Itch
Tinea Barbae
Fungal infection of the skin and scalp, characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicle
Tinea Capitis
A fungal infection of the scalp, characterized by a pink scalp with thick, whitish-yellow crusts known as scutula, which tend to have a slight odor; Honeycomb Ringworm
Tinea Favosa
Hair loss through repetitive and excessive pulling or stretching of the hair
Traction Alopecia
Flat, triangular muscles that run from the upper back to the back of the neck
Trapezius
A guideline that moves around or passes from one section to another
Traveling Guideline
The study of hair and its diseases and disorders
Trichology
When hair ends are dried out and damaged by overexposure to heating tools, weather elements, and/or chemical services; split ends
Trichoptilosis
Bulges along the hair shaft; brittleness and breakage can occur at the node; also known as knotted hair
Trichorrehexis Nodosa
A line that extends straight up from the floor; opposite of horizontal
Vertical Line
A submicroscopic, parasitic particle that causes disease
Virus
Concentration of hair within an area that gives the appearance of heaviness and density
Weight Line
Circular growth pattern; use special considerations when cutting
Whorl
0 to 6.9 on the pH scale
Acid
7.1 to 14 on the pH scale
Alkaline
Used to neutralize acids or raise the pH. May be used in place of ammonia because they create less odor
Alkanolamines
A gas with a strong odor, made up of nitrogen and hydrogen
Ammonia
Small compounds found in permanent haircolor; also known as uncolored dye precursors
Aniline Derivatives
The smallest chemical part of an element
Atom
The medical term for grey hair; the result of a gradual decline in melanin
Canities
A substance used in, or produced by, the process of chemistry
Chemical
The science that deals with the composition, structures, and properties of matter and how matter changes under different chemical conditions
Chemistry
A support tool for the Law of Color to visually show how all colors are created
Color Wheel
The rapid oxidation of a substance, accompanied by the production of heat and light
Combustion
Colors located opposite of each other on the color wheel
Complementary Colors
A chemical combination of two or more atoms from different elements
Compound Molecules/Compounds
A product used to make another product more intense, vibrant, stronger, or purer
Concentrate
The middle layer of hair, made up of elongated cells containing melanin and keratin
Cortex
The protective, outermost layer of hair
Cuticle
The technique of removing natural haircolor or artificial haircolor from the hair
Decolorization
Deposits or adds color to existing haircolor; however, it does not lighten the hair
Demi-Permanent Haircolor
Oxidizing agent added to haircolor or lightener that assists in the development process; manufactured in various strengths, known as volumes or percentages; also known as catalyst or hydrogen peroxide
Developer
Utilizing two or more haircolors and/or techniques to create depth, movement, and shape
Dimensional Haircolor
A two-step technique involving lightening of the hair, followed by application of toner to achieve desired haircolor
Double Process Haircolor
A concentrated haircolor used to increase the ability of a haircolor to neutralize unwanted warmth
Drabber
Particles in an atom that have a negative charge
Electron
The simplest form of matter; cannot be broken down into a simpler substance
Element
The suspension of one liquid in a second liquid with which the first will not mix
Emulsion
Produces brown to black pigments in the hair
Eumelanin
Used to equalize porosity and replace missing pigment in one application
Filler
Involves weaving or slicing out specific strands of hair for depositing haircolor or lightening
Foiling
The technique of applying demi-permanent or semi-permanent haircolor to hair to shine and/or refresh color
Glaze
A solution/chemical used to remove oxidative or non-oxidative haircolor from the hair
Haircolor Remover
A chemincal solution used to remove haircolor from the skin
Haircolor Stain Remover
The technique of coloring some hair strands lighter than their natural color (typically done by foiling)
Highlighting
The study of not living or never living organisms that do not contain carbon
Inorganic Chemistry
A concentrated haircolor that when added to another haircolor, is used to deepen, brighten, or create a more vivid look
Intensifier
The strength of the color’s appearance
Intensity
An atom or a group of atoms carrying an electric charge
Ion/Ions
A system that provides an understanding of color relationships
Law of Color
The degree of lightness or darkness of a color
Level
A system used to determine lightness or darkness of a color
Level System
Will lift permanently by diffusing, dissolving or decolorizing the natural or artificial pigment in the cortex; decolorizer
Lightener/Bleach
A visible line or band between two different haircolors, artificial or natural
Line of Demarcation
Substance that has mass and occupies space; occurs in the form of a solid, liquid, or gas
Matter
The innermost layer of hair composed of round cells; hair is fine and fragile when this is missing
Medulla
The coloring matter that provides us with the natural color of our hair and skin; also known as pigment
Melanin
A non-professional haircolor containing metals that after continuous use, build up on the hair (should not be used with any professional chemicals); also known as Gradual Dye
Metallic Dye
Two or more atoms chemically joined that retain their chemical and physical properties to form matter
Molecule
Non-professional haircolor made from various plants; henna; also known as vegetable hair dye
Natural Hair Dye
Particles in an atom that have a neutral charge (having no positive or negative charge)
Neutron
The process of new hair growing out from the scalp that has not yet been chemically altered
New Growth
Temporary color; no chemical mixing or reaction takes place to produce these colors on the hair
Non-Oxidative Haircolor
Come in a powder form and are not able to be used on the scalp; also known as quick lighteners
Off-the-Scalp Lightener
The study of living or previously living organisms containing carbon
Organic Chemistry
The visible line resulting from haircolor and/or lightening products spreading onto previously colored/lightened hair
Overlapping
The chemical reaction that occurs when oxygen is released from a substance; this reaction assists in the development of color on the hair
Oxidation
Creates a chemical change in the hair therefore providing longer lasting haircolor results. Types of these haircolors are permanent haircolor and demi-permanent haircolor
Oxidative Haircolor
A chemical reaction in which the oxidizing agent (developer) is reduced, and the reducing agent (haircolor) is oxidized
Oxidation-Reduction
This can deposit and/or lighten the natural pigments located in the cortex layer of the hair
Permanent Haircolor
Produces yellow to red pigments in the hair
Pheomelanin
The ability of the hair to absorb any liquid
Porosity
Applying a small amount of product on the skin to check for sensitivity and/or an allergic reaction to a product/chemical; patch test
Predisposition Test
Diffusing or lifting the natural hair color to achieve the desired level
Pre-lightening
The technique that allows for better haircolor penetration by softening the cuticle; often used prior to haircoloring resistant and/or grey hair
Presoftening
The three basic colors - red, yellow, blue - from which all other colors are produced
Primary Colors
Determines if the haircolor is absorbing and processing evenly; Periodic Strand Test
Processing Strand Test
Particles in an atom that have a positive charge
Protons
Substances that have definite chemical and physical properties
Pure Substances
Cuticle scales are flat, causing minimal liquid absorption
Resistant Hair
Created by mixing two primary colors in equal proportions
Secondary Colors
A deposit-only haircolor that penetrates into the cuticle layer of the hair shaft
Semi-Permanent Haircolor
A single application of haircolor to either lighten the natural hair color to deposit haircolor to the hair strand
Single Process Haircolor
Haircoloring technique that isolates thin subsections of hair in a straight line pattern
Slicing
Stable mixtures of two or more substances, which may be solids, liquids, gases, or a combination of these
Solutions
A substance that is capable of dissolving another substance
Solvent
Techniques used to create texture, as well as various dimensions of color
Special Effects
A mixture in which small particles of a substance are dispersed throughout a gas or liquid. If left undisturbed, the particles are likely to settle and separate
Suspension
Type of haircolor that coats the hair surface covering only the cuticle
Temporary Haircolor
Created by mixing a primary color with a neighboring secondary color
Tertiary Colors
The process of returning hair back to its natural state or desired level/color; reverse haircolor
Tint Back
The balance of color; also known as hue
Tone
Semi-permanent or demi-permanent haircolor product used on pre-lightened hair to neutralize unwanted pigment
Toner
The warm or cool tone seen within the predominant haircolor; also known as contributing pigment
Undertone
The first time hair is colored
Virgin Haircolor Application
Performed by coloring alternating selected strands from a thin subsection of hair
Weaving
Permanent waves processed without heat that have a pH ranging between 7.0 to 8.2; produce a firmer curl and process more quickly than true acid waves
Acid Balanced Waves
Results from the oxidation of primary alcohols; there are several other chemicals in the class of highly reactive chemical compounds (composed of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen)
Aldehyde
Processed without heat; the main ingredient is thioglycolic acid; also known as cold waves
Alkaline Waves
Protein building blocks of hair that link together to form tiny protein fibers
Amino Acids
An inorganic compound of colorless liquid, composed of one part nitrogen and three parts hydrogen; it has a pungent odor and is an alkaline substance used in the manufacturing of permanent wave solutions and hair lighteners to aid in opening the cuticle layer
Ammonia
A mild alternative relaxer containing a low pH compatible with thio relaxers
Ammonium Bisulfite Relaxer
Perm that uses an ingredient other than ammonia to reduce the odor associated with ammonia perms
Ammonia-Free Waves
A combination of ammonia and thioglycolic acid that creates a reducing agent used in permanent waves and relaxers
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)
The position of the tool in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped; also known as base placement
Base Control
An oily cream applied on the scalp/skin to protect from the chemicals in the relaxer
Protective Base Cream/Base Cream
The position of the perm rod horizontal, vertical, or diagonal, within a section and/or parting
Base Direction
Relaxer that requires a protective base cream to be applied to the hairline and scalp; too strong to be applied without the application of a base cream
Base Relaxer
The subsections located within a larger panel section; the hair is divided into smaller subsections that hold one perm rod each
Base Sections
The type of perm wrap that consists of controlled sections of hair in which perm rods are placed in rectangular-shaped subsections
Basic Perm Wrap/Straight Set Wrap/9-Block Wrap
Foam-covered perm rods that are easily bent into different shapes and used for permanent waving
Bender Rod/Flexible Rod
Requires only one paper, which is folded in half much like a book
Book End Wrap
Perm rods are placed within a staggered pattern of subsections
Bricklay Perm Wrap
Matter altered permanently to a completely different form
Chemical Change
Characteristics that can only be determined by a chemical reaction and change in the matter
Chemical Properties
To chemically alter naturally curly or wavy hair into a straighter form
Chemical Relaxing
Chemical Substances consisting of atoms or ions of two or more elements in definite proportions, which cannot be separated by physical means
Compounds/Chemical Compounds
A perm rod that has a smaller diameter in the center and a larger diameter increase throughout the length
Concave Rod
Perm wrap that consists of wrapping the hair from ends to scalp in overlapping concentric layers
Croquignole Wrap
Perm wrap that consists of partings that follow the shape of your guest’s head
Curvature Perm Wrap
An amino acid joined with another cyteine amino acid to create a cystine amino acid
Cysteine
An amino acid that joins together two peptide strands
Cystine
Strong chemical side bonds that can only be broken by chemical solutions
Disulfide Bonds
Requires hair to be placed between two end papers, one on each side of the hair strand
Double Flat Wrap
The capability of the hair strand to stretch and return to its previous form without breaking
Elasticity
Absorbent pieces of thin tissue-type paper that control and protect the hair ends or any texturized lengths of hair within a subsection
End Papers/End Wraps
Processed by the application of heat; hood dryer, heat processor
Endothermic Wave
Processed by chemical reaction that releases heat; self-heating
Exothermic Wave
An organic compound that is a colorless, flammable and pungent gas; present in the air and many food and beauty products
Formaldehyde
Products are manufactured “without” the use of formaldehyde but could release a formaldehyde gas upon use
Formaldehyde Free
An odorless, colorless liquid that is miscible in water; it is derived from glycerin
Glyceryl
An ingredient used in a permanent waving lotion to help lower the pH because of its moisturizing properties
Glycerin
The main active ingredient in true acid waves
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Relaxer requiring the mixing of two products; advertised as “no-lye” for sensitive skin
Guanidine Hydroxide
Physical side bond (cross bond) easily broken by water or heat; reforms when the hair cools and/or dries
Hydrogen Bonds
Also called an acid/alkali neutralization reaction; it neutralizes any remaining alkaline residue left by the hydroxide relaxer and helps to restore the pH of the hair and scalp
Hydroxide Neutralization
Relaxers with a high alkaline (pH) content; available in varying formulations
Hydroxide Relaxer
When a substance is not able to mix with another substance
Immiscible
A strong, fibrous protein; the building blocks for hair, skin, and nails
Keratin
The process of removing one sulfur atom and replacing it with a disulfide bond
Lanthionization
A long, plastic rod that is used to create spiral curls
Loop Rod/Circle Rod
Relaxer that contains only one component and they are used exactly as they are packaged, requiring no mixing
Metal Hydroxide Relaxer
A substance that has mass and occupies space; it has physical and chemical properties and exists either as a solid, liquid, or gas
Matter
When a substance is able to be mixed with another substance
Miscible
A chemical solution that stops the waving process of a permanent wave; rebuilds the bonds into their new form
Neutralizer
Chemically restoring disulfide bonds to harden into a new shape; rebonding
Neutralizing
Used to help remove any remaining chemicals left in the hair after a chemical relaxer and to restore hair to normal acidic pH
Neutralizing Shampoo
The new hair growing out from the scalp that has not yet been chemically altered
New Growth
Does not require a base cream to be applied to the skin or scalp
No-Base Relaxer/No-Lye Relaxer
Solutions with an acidic pH that restore the hair’s natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer
Normalizing Lotion
Any illness caused by overexposure to certain products or ingredients
Occupational Disease
A perming technique that provides curl or wave to small areas of the head, creating a natural blending of permed hair into previously permed or non-permed hair
Partial Perm Wrap
These connect amino acids (end to end) that form polypeptides
Peptide Bonds/End Bonds
A technique used to smooth hair around the hairline, such as cowlicks, uncontrollable hair, growth patterns, and inconsistent textures
Perimeter Definition
Chemically rearranging straight hair into a curly or wavy form
Permanent Waving
A scale ranging from 0 to 14 that measures if a product is an acid (0 to 6.9), and alkaline (7.1 to 14), or neutral (7).
pH Scale
Matter altered to a different shape temporarily, but eventually returning to its original state
Physical Change
Consist of two or more types of matter that are blended together, but not chemically altered; each part in the mixture maintains its own properties
Physical Mixtures
Occur without a chemical reaction or change to the matter; ex: hardness, color, weight, odor, and boiling point
Physical Properties
A wrap technique where hair longer than 10 to 12 inches is wrapped on one rod from the mid-shaft to scalp, and the remaining hair is wrapped around a second rod
Piggyback Perm Wrap/Double-Rod
A spiraling chain of amino acids; joined together by peptide bonds
Polypeptide Chain
The ability of the hair to absorb any liquid
Porosity
A very strong alkaline ingredient used in chemical relaxers; typically marketed as no-mix, no-lye
Potassium Hydroxide/Lithium Hydroxide
A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution
Potential Hydrogen (pH)
Performed as part of your guest consultation to test how the hair will respond to the chemical application
Preliminary Strand Test
Determines the required processing time and ensures that the desired curl has been achieved for a permanent wave service
Preliminary Test Curl
Performed during a chemical relaxer to determine if the hair has been sufficiently relaxed
Processing Strand Test/Periodic Strand Test
A cream barrier applied around the hairline and ears to protect the skin from permanent wave lotions or hair color
Protective Cream
A form affirming that your guest was advised of the potential risks that could result during the requested chemical service
Release Statement
The process in which oxygen is subtracted from or hydrogen is added to a substance through a chemical reaction; breaking of the disulfide bonds
Reduction
Weak physical side bonds (cross bonds) easily broken by change in pH; reform when pH balance is restored
Salt Bonds
Allergic reaction caused by repeated exposure to a chemical or substance
Sensitization
Connect polypeptide chains side-by-side; responsible for strength and elasticity
Side Bonds/Cross Bonds
Requires only one paper used in conjunction with either the double end or book end wraps
Single Flat Wraps
A highly soluble chemical element that is an alkaline substance used in the manufacturing of permanent wave lotions and chemical hair relaxers
Sodium
A strong alkaline ingredient used in chemical relaxers
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
A chemical texture service that restructures overly curly hair into loose curls or waves
Soft Curl Reformation
Substance that is dissolved in a solution
Solute
Stable mixture that blends two or more substances, which may be of gases, liquids, solids, or a combo of these
Solution
Dissolves other substances to form a solution with no chemical change
Solvent
Perm wrap that consists of wrapping the hair at an angle other than parallel to the length of the rod, which will create a coiling effect of the hair
Spiral Wrap
Pliable foam rods that allow hair to be chemically altered, creating a soft-end result
Sponge Rod
A perm rod that has an even diameter/width throughout the entire rod length
Straight Rod
A mixture that blends large particles together without dissolving into a liquid or solid. The particles do not stay mixed; they separate back to their original state
Suspension
An organic compound of clear liquid with a strong unpleasant smell used in permanent wave solutions
Thioglycolic Acid
The process of stopping a permanent wave and reforming the hair into its new curly shape
Thio Neutralization
Chemical compounds with the additive ingredient ammonia; considered to be a “no-lye” relaxer, suitable for soft curl reformation; known as “thio-relaxers” by industry standards
Thioglycolate Relaxers
The technical term for the study of the hair, the disorders and diseases, and hair care
Trichology
Permanent waves processed with the application of heat that have a pH range between 4.5-7; the main ingredient is typically glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG); these process slower than alkaline waves
True Acid Waves
Measurement of how thick or thin a liquid is, and how that affects the liquid’s flow
Viscosity
Perm wrap consisting of controlled sections of hair that replaces straight partings with zigzag partings
Weave Perm Wrap
A non-mirror image with unequal distribution of weight and/or length
Asymmetry
A technique using a brush that is done on the surface of the hair to achieve a light, airy appearance that expands the hair, while providing support and structure to the design
Back-brushing/Ruffing
A technique that uses the comb to create a cushion at the base of the scalp, giving height and volume to a design; also known as cushioning, interlocking, lacing, matting, and ratting
Back-combing
The visual comparison of weight used to offset or equalize proportion
Balance
Normally consists of a rectangular-shaped base used in place of a wet roller application or to support a dry design prior to finishing the style; achieves the same results as a cascade curl but in a larger movement
Barrel Curl
The section of the hair that is attached to the scalp
Base
Method of attaching hair with an adhesive agent
Bonding/Fusion
Small sections of hair where the stem and base are raised from the scalp with the ends turning under, creating mass or fullness known as volume
Cascade Curl/Stand-up Pincurl
The chin and forehead align; the nose appears sunken, creating inward curvature
Concave Profile
A receding chin, protruding nose and high hairline; creates strong outward curvature
Convex Profile
The end of the hair strand that forms a complete circle for pin curls, rollersetting and/or thermal setting
Curl/Circle
Creates movement, softness and/or waves; a continuously bending line without angles
Curved line
Also known as the focal point of a hair design, is the point or the area that the eye is drawn to at first glance
Emphasis
Facial form created by individual bone structure and hairline
Face Shape
The relationship of facial features and shape to each other
Facial Proportion
“C” shapes placed into the hair in alternating directions using the fingers and a comb
Finger waves
A combination of lines that outline a shape
Form
The curl is secured totally off it’s base; provides the maximum amount of movement but the least amount of curl
Full Stem Curl
Natural or synthetic hair attached to the base/scalp area to add length, volume, and/or color
Hair Additions
Small wig or various hair attachments used to cover smaller sections of the head primarily on the top or crown of the head
Hair Additions
Small wig or various hair attachments used to cover smaller sections of the head, primarily on the top or crown of the head
Hairpiece
A method of temporarily straightening curly or uncontrollable hair by means of a heated iron or comb
Hair Pressing/Thermal Hair Straightening
The curl/roller sits 1/2 off 1/2 on its base
Half Off-Base
The curl is secured 1/2 off it’s base; provides a medium amount of movement and curl
Half-Stem Curl
A hair straightening technique that removes all of the curl by using a thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair shaft
Hard press
A pleasing arrangement of shapes and lines that incorporates all elements of design
Harmony
Creates emptiness or flat area(s) in a design
Indentation Base
Form of natural styling where hair has grown and intertwined over time; hair is twisted or formed to wrap around itself, creating a rope-like effect
Locs/Dreadlocks
A hair straightening technique using a thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair shaft, using slightly increased pressure; removes 60%-75% of curl
Medium Press
The curl is secured directly on its base; provides the least amount of movement but the greatest amount of curl
No Stem Curl
The curl sits totally off it’s base
Off-Base
The curl sits completely on its base
On-Base
Provides the support, texture and movement of final design
Polishing
The outline or contour of the face viewed from one side
Profile
The direct correlation of size, distance, amount, and ratio between the individual characteristics when compared with the whole
Proportion
A form of finger waves using two combs instead of the fingers to lift the wave up from the head and create a 3D form
Pushwaves/Scrunchwaves
A repeated pattern in a design
Rhythm
Involves forcing the hair between the thumb and back of the comb to create tension
Ribboning
Flat pin curls following the finger wave’s ridge, producing a strong wave pattern in a finished design; alternating rows create what is known as a skip wave
Ridge Curls
Sculpted by hand, iron or roller, to create texture and/or movement for a style
Sculpture Curls/Carved Curls
Combing a section of the hair in a circular movement over the surface of the head for the formation of waves or curls
Shaping/Molding
Blow drying hair in sections utilizing the comb pick attachment, then flat ironing to complete the straightening process
Silk Press
Wave pattern that combines finger waves and flat pin curls
Skipwave
A straightening technique using a thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair shaft; removes 50%-60% of curl
Soft press
Area within or surrounding a hair design
Space
The section of hair between the base and the first turn of the roller/curl
Stem
