Syste,s And Processes Flashcards
How is wind formed
Air rises in low pressure area which draws air in from high pressure areas causing constant movement of air as wind.
How are waves formed
Wind blows over the sea surface moving the water
How are waves formed in shallow water
Friction with sea bed slows down base of wave as the crest rises and steepens whilst moving forward making a elliptical orbit
How does fetch influence waves
The longer the fetch the more wind energy
What is wave period and frequency
The Tim in seconds between two crests
Number of waves per minute
Define swans and backwash
Rush of water up a beach
Water receding back down the beach
What are constructive waves
Strong swash weak backwash material deposited
What are the four zones of a coastline
Back shore- between high water mark and end of marine activity
Foreshore- are between high and low water mark
Inshore- area between low water mark and where waves have no influence on land
Offshore- area beyond where waves have no influence on land