Surf Terminology

Question 1

swell

Answer 1

Swell is energy that has been transferred into the sea by wind. The longer and stronger the wind blows (like a hurricane) the more energy that is transferred and so larger the swell. This energy then propagates from where it is created out into the ocean, much like ripples in a pond.

Question 2

wave height (not swell height)

Answer 2

Not to be confused with swell height. Wave height represents the average size of the waves you may expect to see at the beach.

Question 3

tidal movement

Answer 3

For each 24 hour period, there are two high tides and two low tides. Understanding which tidal state suits the beach best or favours the shape of waves you like to ride should be a factor in where and when you surf.

Question 4

wave period

Answer 4

Wave period is measured in seconds and is the gap between one wave and the next. Simply said the wave period is the amount in seconds that pass between each wave.

The higher the wave period, the more energy in the swell and so the larger the wave and more often than not this results in better quality waves for surfing.

Wave period can be measured from trough to trough or from the crest of one wave to the next.

Question 5

trough

Answer 5

Wave period can be measured from trough to trough or from the crest of one wave to the next.

Question 6

crest

Answer 6

asfdsa