surf saftey shit Flashcards

1
Q

how are waves formed

A

by the wind blowing across the surface of the ocean

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2
Q

what are crests (or peaks) and troughs

in a wave

A

the crest is the highest part

the trough is the lowest part

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3
Q

what are the 3 types of waves

p or d
sp
su

A

plunging or dumping
spilling
surging

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4
Q

how are plunging waves

A

waves that have a large force from a steel rise in the sea floor

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5
Q

what are spilling waves

A

when the crest tumbled down the face of the wave and it has a gradual rise in the sea floor

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6
Q

what are surging waves

A

they break as they approach the shore and do not stop in speed or height. they have a very deep sea floor

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7
Q

what is a rip current

A

a body of water moving out to sea

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8
Q

how do u find a rip current

b w 
f
w b 
d
a
A

brown water (due to strong sand movement

foam
waves breaking either side
debris
appearance

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9
Q
types of rip currents 
p
f
fl
t
A

permanent
fixed
flash
traveling

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