Specialist technical principles: Textiles Flashcards
Name 6 Rs
Reuse, Reduce, Recycle, Rethink, Repair, Refuse
Extract metal ores and minerals
Mining
Large controlled explosions used. Loudband energy consuming
Extract oil and natural gases
Drilling
Leaks can occur, carbon footprint, non renewable resources
Timber
Deforestation
Destroys animals homes, less trees more co2, loose biodiversity
Plants and animlas
Farming
Cause pesticides, harm animals and environment
Wool production
Shearing, cleaning, carding to produce silvers, spinning
Silk production
Silk worms cocoons, steaming, unwinding fires, spinning
Cotton production
Harvesting, ginning, cleaning, carding to produce silvers, spinning
Polyester/acrylic production
Dilling and extracting crude oil, polymerisation, extrusion, through spinneret, spinning
Prototype and one off production
Bespoke, made to measure
Batch production
Flexible machinery, specific quantity of same product
Mass production
Large volumes, automated machinery. Assembly line , standard components
Continuous production
Meet constant demand 24h
Sportwear made from?
Polyester-resistant abrasion, strong, does quickly
Elastine- stretchy, absorbent, moisture wicking
Polyamide aka nylon: insulator, warm, easy to wash
Furnishing made from
Cotton: abrasion resistant
Acrylic: software, warm, retains colour, resistant to fading
Wool:strong and warm
Finishes
Flame retardant- soft, cheap production and can wash out
Stain protection: stop create and dirt from penetrating fabric
Rot proofing: stop mildew fungus
Water-resistant- nylon finish
Lamination
Adds waterproof and protection
Zips
Secure fastening, easily usable, lay flat, can be washed, hard wearing
Velcro
Safe, soft, machine washable, hard-wearing.
Over time get less sticky
Buttons
Aesthetic, easy to attatch and use
Fall of and can be damaged in wash
Press studs
Easy to use. Good for baby’s clothes
Other standard components
Eyelets, buckles, hook and eye
Stockforms
Yarns: hanks, spool,balls,skeins, reel(width)
Fabrics: roll/bolts (denier, ply)
Laser cutting
CAM laser beam melta or burns fabric leaving accurate cut edge or engraved pattern
Die cutter
Shaped blades inside foam stamp press through and cut several layers of fabric at once
Sewing by hand
Appropriate sized needle
Unravel length needed
Weave through hoop
Tie a knot at the end
Sew using chosen stitch.
Tie off and cut excess off
Sewing by machine
Set stitch and length and width. Thread the machine. Take up leaver. Fabric under presser foot. down pressr foot. Press down pedal, backstitch
Pleat
Allow threw times the fabric width and mark position . Pleats even width. Fold pleats and pin across top. Press it. Sew a straight stitch along top,horizontally
Keeps you warm, aesthetic
Gather
Stitch 2 running stitch lines parallel to each other at the top of the fabric in the seam allowance.(longest stitch and tension) Pull at the thread ends until its what you want. Press it knot threads at end
Volume, aesthetic
Quilting
Wadding in between layers of fabric. Sew straight lines over it in patterns.
Adds warmth, traps warm air can create 3D effect
Piping
In seams. Wrap folded fabric over cord . Line up pieces either side of seam allowance. Lay it face down flat and sew a straight line. Unfold fabric and iron underside of seam.
Adds stricture and strength
Batik
Tjanting tool to apply wax in pattern of choice over fabric which is stretched on a frame. Let it dry and add on dye , paint it. Resist dying. Wax will resist dye . Heat it using heat proof film and iron to melt wax off. Reveals pattern
Drape forming felt
Felt will shrink and compress. It is absorbent, coat felt with stiffener
Drape forming fabric
Place onto mannequin and pin then trace piece and cut out and law flat. See how it will look on person and use to make pattern pieces
Screen printing
Flat bed screen. Several screens one For each colour. Fabric passes under on a conveyer belt colours apply.
Squeegees move back and forth across screen. Screen lifted and fabric moves.
Commercial weaving
Computer controlled
Cad software
2 yarns interlocking at 90° weft horizontally , warp vertically
Set up times long
Different colored yarns= different colored patterns
Sublimation printing
Print on ink paper. Place on fabric on heat press
Dying
Tye dying. Damp fabric. Resist bands on it. Dip in colour dye. Squeeze a bitm run under water a bit. Dry. Then take it out
Jig
A jig is device used to hold a piece of material and guide cutting tools and they are used to ensure the process can be repeated accurately and to a high quality. For example, a carpenter making a hole of a specific alignment and depth may use a jig to aid accuracy.
Pattern pieces/ templates
To ensure accuracy and consistency across products
Datum points
datum referencesare used as a reference point for all measurements to be taken from and can be chosen by the manufacturer. By taking measurements from a small number of set points, accuracy can be improved and maintained.
Tolerance
The amount acceptable variation from the specified measurement from which you can cut out pattern pieces, addcomponentsor sew seams.
Seam allowance
amount of material between the edge of the fabric and the seam, and it is tested to check it meets the tolerance stated in themanufacturing specification.
Tessellating
Arrangement of shapes that fit each other repetively
Nesting
Computer generated cutting method designed to minimize creation of excess scrap during cutting process