Prolific southern hemisphere wine producer with a lustrous past and now in the midst of a significant renaissance. The famous Muscat-based dessert wines of constantia seduced 18th and 19th-century Europe at a time when names such as lafite and Romanée-Conti (see domaine de la romanée-conti) were still in the making. The two centuries which followed were, by comparison, a disappointment, with the ordinary being too plentiful and the individual too rare. Only since the early 1990s has the Cape begun to shake off its political notoriety and vinous obscurity.
The Cape (most South African vineyards are in the hinterland of the Cape of Good Hope) functioned as a vast distillery for much of the 20th century, draining a partly subsidized annual wine lake and guaranteeing a certain quality of life to a politically powerful farming lobby. The growers’ body founded in 1918, the kwv (Co-operative Wine Growers’ Association), was until 1998 legally empowered to determine production quotas, fix minimum prices, and predetermine production areas and limits—a system which tended to handicap the private wine producer and favour the bulk grape-grower. Under pressure, the KWV began to relinquish most of these powers in 1992, and set the stage for a much freer, livelier production scene.
By the late 1990s, the requirements of the country’s considerable brandy industry were more or less separately met, with plantings of high-yielding varieties increasingly developed expressly for this purpose. This forced growers of poorer vine varieties in lower-yielding regions to reconsider their commercial strategies. At the same time, increased demand for superior wines and the enthusiasm of a new generation of winemakers led to new vine-growing ventures in completely new viticultural areas and to the rediscovery of certain regions whose potential had long been overlooked.
Until recently, the Cape’s wine industry could be divided between the quantity-producing majority and the quality-conscious minority. However, the export-led boom which followed democratic elections in 1994 transformed an industry in which as recently as 1990 less than 30% of the harvest reached the market as wine. By 2012, 75% of the grape crop was used to produce wine, with the remainder supplying the domestic brandy industry and the fruitjuice sector.
With 1.7% of the world’s vineyards, South Africa ranks about 11th in area under vines, but its annual output, at just 10 million hl/264 million gal, makes it definitively one of the world’s top ten wine producers. Total area of vineyard for wine grapes has stabilized at around 100,000 ha/247,000 acres. By 2014, there were almost 600 cellars which crush grapes, a small proportion of the 3,440 registered grape growers.
The risks and discipline of cooler environments suited to classic, low-yielding varieties have been braved by those who represent the innovative side of the South African wine industry. Together with a few wholesale merchant-producers (notably distell and Douglas Green Bellingham), such wine-growers began to revolutionize the Cape wine scene in the 1980s, preparing the way for the significant transformation—in both plantings and in quality—which characterized the first post-apartheid decade.
An ever-strengthening export market which is slowly recognizing the nuances possible in the higher-priced brackets has been helped by a buoyant domestic demand for good quality wine.
As in Europe and America, people are drinking less, but better, with average per capita consumption around 8 l per year. Meanwhile, to an increasing extent, wine is the beverage of choice of middle-class families in many of the urbanized areas. This shift away from a beer-and-spirit-only consumption pattern has seen the growth of a more sophisticated domestic market. Coupled with a virtual twenty-fold increase in exports between 1992 and 2012, there is now a significant incentive to vine-growers to pursue quality rather than quantity.
This scramble for excellence has confirmed the benefits both of cooler sites and matching locality to grape varieties. The historic Constantia area has been rediscovered and replanted. Climatic conditions here and in recently pioneered areas such as elgin, walker bay, and cape agulhas on the eastern seaboard and alongside the cold Benguela current along the west coast differ dramatically from those in the hot hinterland. This century many of the country’s more adventurous winemakers have been exploiting the fit between locality and variety, and the warmer swartland district and Olifants River region have come to yield some of the country’s most exciting new-generation wines.
Chenin Blanc remains the farmers’ favourite vine variety, making almost any and every style of white wine and comprising just over 17% of all plantings. In the late 1990s, less than 18% of Cape vineyards produced red grapes. By 2012 this proportion was more than 45%. As a result, the traditional red blends featuring Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cinsaut, Tinta Barroca, and the Cape’s own cross pinotage have been joined by newer styles. Growth in plantings of the premium red varieties has seen Cabernet Sauvignon move from 4.9% of total plantings in 1996 to 11.8% in 2012. In the same period, Shiraz vineyards increased ninefold, Merlot trebled, and Cabernet Franc more than doubled. Small oak ageing was introduced in the late 1970s and became widely used for commercial wines in the second half of the 1980s. Now most of the country’s smaller cellars, and all of the producing wholesalers, use French oak for both reds and whites. Controlled malolactic conversion is widely practised while reduced dependence on flavour-stripping filtration and stabilization processes has also helped improve the quality of the better wines. New canopy management strategies and increasing vine densities also played a role.
However, poor grape quality—often due to virus-infected planting material—has hindered even greater progress. leafroll, fanleaf, and corky bark viruses affect tens of thousands of hectares of vineyards.
While counterparts elsewhere in the New World streaked ahead, South Africa’s progress was slowed in the 1980s by the application of unnecessarily arduous plant importation regulations and the steadfast refusal by members of the industry’s own vine improvement body to recognize the extent of the problem. Initially, poor handling techniques in disseminating this material as well as virus-infected rootstocks ensured that many of the newer vineyards would succumb to viruses, although more rigorous protocols now appear to be playing a role in raising the average age of virus-free plantings on the better-managed properties.
A few fundamental natural handicaps exist. Apart from isolated calcareous outcrops, Cape soils tend to be excessively acid, requiring heavy lime amendments, tartaric acid adjustments to musts and wines, and severe tartrate removal procedures before bottling