Short hair cutting Flashcards
Head shape #1
Head shape is narrower at the parietal ridge and slightly wider in the temporal. Narrows slightly as it rounds towards the apex (pear shaped)
Head shape #2
Head shape is wider at the parietal ridge and narrower in the temporal. Slightly wider as it rounds toward the apex. (Upside down pear shaped)
Head shape #3
Head shape is equally balanced in the parietal ride and temporal areas. Allows for more flexible hair designs (similar oval shape)
Contours
The shapes created by the haircut used to complement the existing bone structure and head shape
Building contour
Building or maintaining length where the bone structure is most narrow creates a balanced end result. Best complements head shape #1. If guest has flatter crown, this contour can be used to build up shape in the back of the head.
Leaning contour
This contour leaves subtle weight or length in the temporal area and minimizes weight over the parietal ridge giving the head shape a more balanced end result. Use this contour when the head shape is wider at the partiel ridge since it leaves some weight or length near the bottom or at the hairline of the haircut. Best complements head shape #2.
Natural contour
the natural contour starts at the shortest length of the hair line in the temporal region and works straight up toward the ceiling. The length of the hair naturally transitions from shorter to longer as you move from segment one to segment two. Best suited for head shape #3.
The plan
The system of planning which contours and tools you will use to obtain the final desired results in each of the three segments
Step 1 (the plan)
Evaluate the scalp for irregular hairlines, cowlicks, scars, protruding occipital bone, a flat crown, whorls and overall growth patterns
Step 2 (the plan)
Divide the head shape into the three standard segments
Step 3 (the plan)
Determine which contour to use. Sometimes the plan may require a mix of different contours to meet specific need, solve any challenges or create a new or different look.
Step 4 (the plan)
Determine which tools to use.
Comb Positions
Two types of comb positions are the anchored and floating positions
Anchored position
occurs when the spine of the comb rests on or touches the scalp. used to create short lengths within a haircut (stabilizes clipper and start guides)
Floating position
controls and holds hair away from the scalp and creates longer length within the haircut
Comb/Clipper directions
vertical, diagonal, horizontal, freehand and backhand
Vertical Direction
works best within the sideburn area to connect sideburn length with the temporal area
Diagonal Direction
best for working around the ears and back of the hairline since it mirrors the contour of the head shape.
Horizontal Direction
best to use around flatter areas of the head shape for creating more balance
Freehand Direction
used for tapers and fades and for customizing any desired shape. steady hand and clipper only (no comb needed)
Backhand Direction
used on the non-dominant side to cut the hair away from the face.
Scissors lengths short
4 1/2 to 5 inches used for graduation, short, layered and detailed word around the hair and neckline
Scissors lengths medium
5 1/2 to 6 inches “work horse” scissors. used most often and also long layered haircuts and point cutting
Scissors lengths long
6 1/2 to 7 inches one - length, barbering, and scissor over comb techniques
Scissors lengths texturizing
notched blades remove bulk from the hair. varieties differ in the number of teeth from 5 notches up to 40 notches. the more teeth or notches on the blades, the more bulk the scissors will remove.
Diagraming orange arrow
clipper movement
Diagraming orange narrow diamond
feathering
Diagramming orange regular diamond
chipping (using the corner of the clipper to remove bulk or weight from a very specific area)
Diagramming orange circle swirl
circular motion combing feathering and chipping