Sherry

Question 1

Define a solera system

Answer 1

A system of fractional blending to maintain consistency and quality year after year. Barrels of maturing wine are grouped in sections called criadera (generally wine of the same age in each criadera.) The oldest criadera is called the solera.

Question 2

Describe the blending process of a solera system.

Answer 2

1. A proportion of wine (max. 40%) is taken from the barrels of the solera (oldest criadera). This goes to final blending and bottling)
2. The same proportion is then taken from the 1st criadera (second oldest), blended in tank for consistency, then used to top up the barrels of the solera
3. The same proportion is then taken from the 2nd criadera, blended in tank, and used to top up the 1st criadera
4. This processes is repeated for each criadera and the youngest criadera barrels are topped up from the sobretablas

Hence each topping up sees younger wine being blended with older wine.

Wines from one solera system can be blended with another solera system in final blending.

Wine from one solera system can be fed into another, e.g. Amontillado

Question 3

List and describe the winemaking processes that take place for Sherry from arrival at winery to end of fermentation

Answer 3

1. Grapes are pressed on arrival (skin contact not desirable)
2. Free run juice and lightest pressings used for wines to be biologically aged, Oloroso tend to be made from later pressings.
3. Pre fermentation clarification (due to dusty albariza soil) - either cold settling, centrifuging or flotation
4. Sites fermented separately to create different base wines destined for different styles
5. Cultured yeast fermentation around 22-26 degrees for reliable fermentation to dryness in stainless steel (poss some old barrels for fuller body)
6. First phase of fermentation is quick and vigorous (temperature), majority of sugar fermented in 7 days. Next slow phase takes 2 more weeks to dryness.
7. Malolactic is prevented (acid already low and buttery flavours unwanted) by chilling (so2 would kill flor yeast)
8. First Classification - tasting and analysis decides which wines for biological or oxidative ageing
9. Fortification by neutral 95% spirit, to 15-15.5% for bio aged (optimum for flor), 17% for oxi aged (so yeast cannot survive)
10. Sobretablas stage - stored before joining solera system. Stay in tanks or barrels for a number of months before Second Classification - decide which more delicate are Fino and Manzanilla, or potential Amontillado (slightly less delicate) and Palo Cortado (more full bodied and intensely flavoured)

Question 4

What abv are biologically aged Sherries fortified to compared to oxidatively aged Sherries?

Answer 4

Bio - 15-15.5% the optimum for the growth of flor yeast

Oxi - 17% so the yeast cannot survive

Question 5

What are the 2 winds prevalent in Jerez? How do they affect grape growing?

Answer 5

1. Poniente - Atlantic brings a cool, damp wind from the west. It brings a cooling, humid influence in summer,
2. Levante - hot drying wind from North Africa to the south. This makes the climate more arid, the grapes transpire more quickly concentrating sugars, but too much sugar can be problematic

Question 6

Describe the types of businesses involved in Sherry production

Answer 6

1. Production bodega - usually large cooperatives, own about half the vineyards in the region. Press, ferment into base wine. Often owned by other companies in another registered category.
2. Ageing and storage bodega - Almacenistas - mature wines - usually small businesses / mature small amounts. Have suffered the most in declining sales as shippers used their own stocks and not buy from alcamenistas.
3. Ageing and shipping bodega - Shippers - only ones permitted to sell DOs. Sell usually under their own labels and can mature, blend.

Question 7

Top line Reasons to justify category choice of Fino or Manzanilla

Answer 7

Flavours created by flor
Colour due to flor protecting by oxygen
Dryness due to fortification post fermentation
Low alcohol fortification to 15%

(Manzanilla) - particular freshness from the cooler humid Sanlucar de Barrameda

Question 8

Top line quality assessment notes for Fino and Manzanilla

Answer 8

Very good quality
3 positive:
Complexity - primary, secondary
Flavour intensity - well defined flavours
Balance flavour intensity, integrated alcohol, acidity
Typicity - acetaldehyde

1 negative:
Finish, bitterness, not long

Question 9

VOS and VORS have what age of average ageing?

Answer 9

VOS 20yrs
VORS 30yrs

Have to be assessed for typicality and sent for laboratory testing as evidence of the age.

Question 10

What is the sobretablas and what happens at the 2nd Classification?

Answer 10

Sobretablas is the stage after fortification when the wines are stored (in tanks or barrel) for a period of time before joining a solar system.

2nd Classification is when wines set for Biological ageing are tasted and analysed again at the end of sobretablas. Wines that have a full layer of flor and remained fresh are classified for Fino/Manzanilla. Wines that are less delicate - Amontillado, wines that are more full-bodied and intensely flavoured - Palo Cortado.

Question 11

What is the 1st Classification?

Answer 11

After fermentation to dryness, each bath of base wine is tasted and sent for analysis to decide which are for Biological or Oxidative ageing.

Those destined for Biological ageing are the lighter-bodies, less intensely flavoured. Those for oxidative ageing are the fuller bodied and more intensely flavoured.

The Bio wines are then fortified to 15-15.5% abv - optimum for flor growth.

Oxi wines fortified to 17% where flor cannot survive.

Question 12

Describe the harvest process in Sherry Production

Answer 12

The Palomino variety used in Sherry is a neutral variety and its fruit character is not dominant in final Sherry wines, therefore the aim of harvest of the grape is its health and yield.

It is picked early, i.e. first week of August, to avoid Autumn rain and risk of any rot (esp for bio aged wines). Also because Palomino loses its acidity quickly.

Sherry will be fermented to dryness and fortified so full ripeness is not necessary, usually picked at 12% potential alcohol.

Approx. 60% machine harvested, at night or early morning to prevent oxidation and microbial spoilage.

PX and Moscatel harvested slightly later as they are used for naturally sweet wines. A higher concentration of sugar when harvested makes drying process easier and quicker.

Question 13

Vineyard management practices in Sherry production (up until harvest)

Answer 13

Region is currently in a process of transformation to accommodate more mechanisation.

Managed with the aim for high yields and healthy fruit. Max. yields are 80 hL/ha.

Mostly replacement cane pruned although increasingly cordon trained & spur pruned to be more suitable for mech.

VSP aids ripening by keeping canopy open, while still providing some shade from sunburn. Also easy for mechanisation.

High density plantings, often 1m rows.

Gentle slopes are built with troughs called aserpia to catch winter rains.

Hybrid rootstocks of v. vinifera and v. berlandieri e.g. Evex 13-5. that are more limestone and drought tolerant. Avoid chlorosis and help increase yields.

Use of fungicides to avoid mildew in spring (gets humid after rain with poniente)

Use of pheromone traps for the European Grapevine Moth is common

Question 13

Main varieties in Sherry and their characteristics.

Answer 13

Palomino (predominant 97%): neutral, high yielding, mid-late ripening, suited to dry, sunny weather (thick skins more drought tolerant), however loses acidity quickly when nearing maturity

PX: high levels of sugar and small berries - suited for sweet fortified styles and as a sweetening agent; neutral (flavours come from drying and maturation). Can also be grown in Montilla.

Moscatel: used for sweet styles, grown in arenas soils around town of Chipiona, aromatic (grape & blossom), late ripening, adapted to heat and drought

Question 14

What is the soil type in Jerez and what are its characteristics?

Answer 14

Albariza - mixture of limestone, silica and clay.

Clay component Retains water well and releases it slowly over the dry growing season. Allows for high density plantings and high yields.

Forms a crust on the surface as it hardens in sunlight, preventing further evaporation from the soil surface.

Highly coloured - reflects sunlight back under canopy onto grapes to aid ripening

Question 15

Other than albariza, what are the other 2 soil types in Jerez?

Answer 15

Arenas - sandy soils around town of Chipiona, generally where Moscatel is grown

Barros - higher clay content soils

Question 16

Sales of Sherry since 19th century

Answer 16

A popular beverage in 19th and early 20th century - successful shipping companies sent it around the world.

This popularity however led to other countries also producing their own poor-quality Sherries. So Jerez established its own Regulatory Council in 1933 - Consejo Regulador to control production and trade of Sherry.

Sales peaked in 1970s, but halved in the following decade as younger generations sought different styles of wine. Led to a surplus of cheap, low quality sherry.

A company known as Rumasa came to dominate the industry by the 1970s and due to consolidation across levels of production drove down prices.

Since this time, the Consejo Regulador has worked hard to bring vineyard plantings, stock levels and sales back into balance and promote the quality of Sherry.

Question 17

Describe the location and climate of Jerez.

Answer 17

Andalucia, south Spain at a low latitude of 36 degrees.

Low latitudes 0-90m.

Southern coast of Spain, influence of the Atlantic Ocean, hot mediterranean climate - hot, dry summer, relatively mild rainy winters.

Atlantic brings the poniente wind - cooling humid influence in the summer.

Also the Levante from North Africa brings a hot dry, wind, makes climate for arid increasing evaporation, also causes the grapes to transpire more quickly concentrating the sugars. Too much sugar is a challenge because it makes it more difficult to ferment to dryness, particularly problematic for development of flor yeast.

High number of cloud-free days risks sunburn.

Question 18

What are pagos?

Answer 18

Smaller delimited areas with the Zone de Produccion in Jerez. Thought to produce wines with different characteristics due to their aspect, location, difference in soil etc. Allowed to state the name of the Pago on the label.

Question 19

Describe the vessels used in Sherry production

Answer 19

Old oak barrels called butts.

Very old - do not impart oak flavour.

American oak. Cheaper.

Range in size but most common is 600L.

Question 20

Describe the buildings used for ageing Sherry.

Answer 20

Called bodegas, must be within the Zone de Produccion to produce DO Jerez wines.

Traditional bodegas have thick walls to keep temps constant.

Tall with high ceilings, butts stacked 3-4 high so warm air rises above the butts. Windows positioned high near roof and oriented to allow the cool, damp south-westerly winds from Atlantic to enter, helps lower temps and raise humidity.

Windows have thin blinds to diffuse sunlight and prevent dust and insects.

Floors made of earth are regularly wetted during summer to lower temps and increase humidity.

There is still fluctuation in conditions between summer and winter.

Question 21

What accounts for the difference in character of Manzanilla compared to Fino.

Answer 21

Manzanilla tend to taste lighter and fresher than Fino. The likely reason for this is a thicker layer of flor usually present in the barrels of ageing wine in Sanlucar de Barrameda. This is probably due to the coastal proximity of the town which maintains a relatively constant temperate and humid environment optimal for flor development between summer and winter. Whereas in more inland areas of Jerez de la Frontera tend to see a thinning of the flor during winter. The thicker layer gives greater protection from oxygen and lower levels of acetaldehyde.

Question 22

Aromas of acetaldehyde

Answer 22

Apple skin, bruised apple, hay/straw, chamomile

Question 23

Aromas of tertiary, oxidative ageing

Answer 23

Caramel, almond, hazelnut, walnut, chocolate, coffee

Question 24

What is a Cream Sherry made of?

Answer 24

A dry Oloroso blended with PX (naturally sweetened agent)

Question 25

What is Fino Viejo and Manzanilla Pasada?

Answer 25

Biologically aged Fino or Manzanilla with a minimum average age of 7 yrs. Flor is left to die naturally by not refreshing the barrels with new wine for about a year. Then enter a Fino Viejo or Manzanilla Pasada solar system Staying on their lees.

Question 26

How are Amontillados aged?

Answer 26

They start life in a Fino solera system at the 1st Classification - being fortified to 15-15.5% abv and undergoing biological ageing. Then at the 2nd classification, those wines that are showing a thinner layer of flor and less delicacy than the Finos will be reclassified as Amontillado - refortified to 17% abv to kill the flor and enter an oxidative Amontillado solera system.

inexpensive Amontillados are those that are younger, i.e. taken out of the Fino solera system from the youngest criaderas, and only undergo a short period on the oxidative solera system.

More expensive Amontillados will be matured for longer and hence more complex.

Question 28

Account for the aromas in biologically aged Sherry

Answer 28

Tend to be dominated by secondary aromas as the variety Palomino is neutral and does not contribute much character to the final wine, though some primary fruit aromas to contribute to the overall complexity of the wine.

Secondary aromas of savoury, nutty flavours, bread dough, toast are due to the presence of flor yeast. As the yeast die and fall to the bottom of the barrel they continue to age on the lees.

Acetaldehyde aromas of apple skin, bruised apple, hay/straw and possibly chamomile are the result of the flor yeast consuming alcohol in the wine.

Question 29

Influences of flor on the wine

Answer 29

1. Flor consumes alcohol - gives secondary Aromas - of acetaldehyde - apple skin, bruised apple, hay/straw, chamomile,
2. Over time autolysis takes place, as dead yeast cells fall to the bottom of the barrel imparting savoury, nutty aromas
3. Flor protects wine from oxygen, therefor it retains its pale lemon colour and freshness
4. Flor consumes glycerol, giving the wine a lighter body. As glycerol also has a slightly sweet taste, its reduction gives the effect of a very dry wine
5. Flor also reduces acetic acid.

Question 30

Besides maintaining style and quality, what is another function of the solera system?

Answer 30

The blending of younger wines (sobretablas) with older wines refreshes the nutrient levels in the wine and therefore keeps the layer of flor alive, protecting the wine from oxygen.

Particularly for Fino and Manzanillas, frequent small bottling are drawn down so as to continually refresh the nutrients in the system and maintain the layer of flor.

Question 31

Influence of oxidative ageing on wines.

Answer 31

1. Exposure of oxygen gradually changes the colour from lemon to gold and then amber and brown.
2. Alcohol levels increase slightly due to the conditions in the bodega mean the rate of water evaporation is quicker than the loss of ethanol.
3. Glycerol levels rise also because water is lost in the bodega at a quicker rate, which gives the wine a fuller, rounder body.
4. Water loss also concentrates the aromas and flavours of the wine.
5. Aromas and flavours evolve from primary to more tertiary due to the exposure to oxygen - characteristics such as caramel, nuts.

Question 32

What is a Palo Cortado

Answer 32

Both biological and oxidative ageing. Must have a sugar level under 5g/L and alcohol between 17-22% but no other stipulations on winemaking or maturation.

They start life as a Fino and At 2nd classification, the wines that are showing aromas similar to an Amontillado, but displaying a fuller body closer to that of an Oloroso will be reclassified as Palo Cortado. Often they are the fino wines where the flor is failing and hence have undergone some mild oxidation and show some more complexity.

They will have generally spent less time ageing biologically than Amontillado and hence the characteristic acetaldehyde aromas will be less prominent. Glycerol levels will be slightly higher, hence the slightly fuller, rounder body.

Question 33

What are the naturally sweet wines of Jerez?

Answer 33

PX and MOscatel.

PX - dried in the sun.

They must have a minimum residual sugar level of 212g/L, but are often up to 450-550 g/L.

Full bodied, syrupy, low in acidity, pronounced aromas and flavours of raisons, molasses and liquorice.

Moscatel - single varietal is rare but must have a minimum sweetness of 160g/L but often reach 325-375 g/L. Can be protected from oxygen or oxidative style.

Both used as blending components for other sweetened sherries.

Question 34

How are sweetened sherries made?

Answer 34

Blend of wine made from Palomino, fermented to dry, fortified, aged then sweetened using a sweetening agent.

Inexpensive versions are made from relatively young wines and sweetened just prior to bottling.

Mid-priced and premium versions are further matured in a solera system.

Question 35

Difference between the 3 styles of sweetened sherry.

Answer 35

Pale Cream - generally the inexpensive, acceptable to good quality sweetened sherries that have undergone a period of bio ageing and sweetened with RCGM so that it doesn’t impart its own colour or flavour. They will have a light flor character but they are not aged for long and the RCGM dilutes the flor-derived characters. NO OXI.

Both Medium & Cream can be made from a blend of biologically and oxidatively aged wine. Usually Oloroso or Amontillado is blended with PX for sweetening.

The Medium wines range from off-dry to sweet, whereas Cream are sweet (above 115 g/L.

Inexpensive versions are younger, premium examples will have a high proportion of well-matured Amontillado, Oloroso and PX.

Question 36

Role of the Consejo Regulador

Answer 36

Maintains vineyard registers

Sets maximum yields

Sets minimum alcohol levels in base wines

Oversees rotation of stock in bodegas

Verifies the authenticity of age-dated Sherries

Promotion and marketing of Sherry (had the term Sherry protected for wines only within the DOs)

Question 37

How are Producers reacting to declining sales?

Answer 37

Some winemakers have diversified to producing unfortified styles of Palomino or PX in a range of styles, fresh and youthful, bio aged or partially oxidised.

Producing bottling that are specifically marketed as cocktail mixers.