Sewing the Jacket Flashcards
What are the steps for the “Center Back, Yoke, and Side and Shoulder Seam” stage?
- Fabric Center Back Seam
- Lining Center Back Seam
- Pressing Center Back Seam Open
- Attach Yoke
- Sew Front to Back at Side and Shoulder Seams
What are the steps for the sleeves?
- Easestitch Back of Sleeve (fabric and lining)
- Seams (fabric and lining)
- Sleeve Head to Sleeve Cap (fabric)
- Finger method lining sleeve cap
- Insert Sleeves (Fabric and Lining)
When easestitching the back of the sleeve which part of the sleeve and which side do you easestitch?
Upper Sleeve between notches on the long side of both fabric and lining
When inserting the sleeves into the jacket where does the long edge go?
In the back
What are the steps for attaching the lining to the jacket lapel?
- RST, stitch jacket facing to lining facing
- Clip seam at the break point (where the lapel will fold back)
Press lower seam toward the facing and the upper part towards the garment
What are the steps for stitching the upper and lower collar together?
- Sew Center Back Seam
- Sew Bottom Seam
- Understitch Bottom Seam
- Sew Collar ends stitching just to the dot
Once the lining is attached at the front facing, how do you press that seam allowance?
- Make a clip at the break point
- Press the seam allowances below the break point towards the lining
- Press the seam allowance above the breakpoint towards the jacket
What are the steps for sewing the lapel tops?
- Stitch lapel to facing at the top, from front edge to notch (check that the center front seam allowance is facing the jacket, not the lining )
- Reinforce all 4 corners (jacket, lining) with staystitching.
- Clip to staystitchg
What are the steps for attaching the lower and upper collar to the jacket and lining?
- Pin under collar matching back seam, and ensuring the peak of collar and peak of lapel are perfectly matched and seam allowances are out of the way
- Stitch under collar
- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for upper collar
- Press open the seam from the lined up dots to the pivot point at all 4 points (2 lining, 2 jacket)
- Stitch neck edges together by the fabric neck edge to the lining neck edge. Matching the stitched seams perfectly. Stitch within the seam allowance
How do you insert the shoulder pads?
- Line up center of shoulder pad with the shoulder seam (If you get an asymetrical shoulder pad then the longer point goes towards the front)
- Pin shoulder pad in line with fabric raw edge.
- Hand sew shoulder pad in place.
- Tack the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam allowances.
What are the steps for hemming the sleeve
1, Press up the fabric sleeves along the fold line
2. Starting with the sleeve lining inside the sleeve, insert your arm into the sleeve and grab hold of the lining and fabric hem and pull them out. They should now be right sides together.
3. Match up raw edges and sleeve seams. Sew along the ½” seam allowance of bottom edge
4. At the sleeve seams fold up the hem and tack one set of seam allowances together with a bartack ( 3 stitches forward, 3 stitches back) within the bottom seam allowance
What are the steps for hemming the jacket
- Fold the jacket hem allowance up along foldline
- Starting half way between the side seam and center back, with sides seam of fabric and lining matching, stitch the hems together at the 1/2”seam allowance all the way to the front facing seam.
- Tack the seam allowances together at side seam and front seam
- Repeat steps 1.2, and 3 for other side of jacket
- Pull jacket through sleeve opening
- Stitch remaining hem edges together. Tack seam allowances at center back
- Pull garment back through sleeve
- Close the hole in lining sleeve.
What should you be doing after every seam
- Trim all threads
- Check for any puckers
- Press seam allowance opening for jacket and lining, unless otherwise indicated.
