Sewing Terms, Symbols, and Diagrams

Question 0

Seam allowance

Answer 0

The amount of fabric left between the cutting line and the seam line when sewing. It should be 5/8 inch unless otherwise noted.

Question 1

Nap

Answer 1

A fabric characteristic (i.e. texture, such as corduroy, pattern printed on the fabric) that runs in a particular direction and requires all pattern pieces to be cut facing the same direction

Question 2

Selvage

Answer 2

Tightly woven factory edge of fabric that runs parallel to the lengthwise grain

Question 3

Basting

Answer 3

Temporary, long running stitches created by hand or machine to hold fabric in place before the final stitching. They are sometimes removed later.

Question 4

Casing

Answer 4

Folded and stitched tunnel of fabric that holds elastic, cording, or a curtain rod

Question 5

Backstitch

Answer 5

A reverse stitch done at the beginning and end of a permanent seam to keep it from unraveling

Question 6

Notch

Answer 6

Pattern mark shaped like a diamond or triangle that is printed on the cutting line of a pattern to indicate where the seams should meet

Question 7

Grainline

Answer 7

The line that is exactly parallel to the selvage on the fabric. The symbol for it is the long arrow printed on a pattern.

Question 8

Most sewing is done with _______ sides on the fabric together, unless otherwise noted.

Answer 8

Right

Question 9

Seam ripper

Answer 9

A small tool used to remove stitches

Question 10

Pattern

Answer 10

The paper template from which the parts of the garment are traced onto before cutting out and assembling

Question 11

Needle

Answer 11

Important part of sewing machine that should be changed often to keep it sharp. The thread passes through it.

Question 12

Notions

Answer 12

Term for a variety of small objects or accessories used in sewing. They can include items that are sewn or otherwise attached to a finished article, such as buttons, snaps, and collar stays, or small tools used in sewing, such as thread, pins, marking pens, and seam rippers.

Question 13

Feed dog(s)

Answer 13

Located beneath the presses foot, these “teeth” help move the fabric under the presser foot. In the raised position, they “feed” the fabric. On some machines you can drop the feed dogs to move the fabric freely in any direction by hand without feed dog involvement.

Question 14

Hem

Answer 14

Finished bottom edge of a garment

Question 15

Tension

Answer 15

Controlled by disks in the tension dial/regulator to apply drag to the machine thread to form the stitches properly. May need to be adjusted for different kinds of fabrics.

Question 16

Preshrinking

Answer 16

Washing fabric before cutting or sewing. This also removes “sizing,” a chemical applied to new fabrics.

Question 17

Seam

Answer 17

Line of stitching where two pieces of fabric are joined together

Question 18

Stitch length

Answer 18

Length of a stitch determined by the movement of the feed dogs. This is usually set to around 2.5 or 3 for most purposes.

Question 19

Stitch width

Answer 19

Width of a stitch. It is zero for a straight stitch, or a higher number for a zigzag stitch.

Question 20

Place on fold

Answer 20

___\/________\/___

Question 21

Straight stitch

Question 22

Zigzag stitch

Answer 22

\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

Question 23

Placement line

Answer 23

line that tells you where to put something (i.e. pockets, buttons)

Question 24

Pins face ____________ to fabric.

Answer 24

Perpendicular

Question 25

Bias

Answer 25

diagonal lines; allows fabric to have some stretch

Question 26

How do you check if pattern piece is on grain?

Answer 26

Measure from grain line to edge of fabric (selvage or fold)

Question 27

Interfacing

Answer 27

adds stability to fabric (i.e. around button holes, waistband, collar, cuff)

Question 28

View

Answer 28

style of a type of pattern (i.e. a, b, c, etc.)

Question 29

Instruction sheet

Answer 29

shows you how to layout fabric, put pattern piece