sewing terminology Flashcards
A-Line
Dress or skirt in shape of an A
Applique
Decorative motif applied to a cloth or garment
Asymmetrical
One-sided, not geometrically balanced
Bias
Diagonal direction of the fabric. True bias=45 deg.
Bodice
Portion of garment above waist
Boning
flexible strips used to stiffen seam or edges, used in corset-making
Casing
Fabric folded and to hold elastic, cording, or boning
Chevron
Stripe pattern in the shape of a V
Closure/Fastener
Notions used to open and close a garment or to attach separate pieces together. (like buttons)
Crossgrain
Grain of fabric that lies perpendicular to selvage
Cutting line
solid dark black line to follow when cutting out a pattern piece
Darts
Folds stitched to take in ease and give shape
Double breasted
half of the front lapped over the other, usually with a double row of buttons
Draping
Creating a garment by arranging fabric on mannequin
Drafting
Creating a sewing pattern based on body measurements
Ease
Amount added to finished garment for comfortable movement
Empire waistline
High waist line just below bust with loose flowing line underneath
Facing
A finished piece sewn into the raw edge of a garment, then turned under at the seam line.
Finish
Any means of completing the raw edge of a garment
Flare
extended circumference at hemline to widen
Fly
fabric piece used as a lap to cover opening of a garment.
Foldline
1.) The line on a garment where you fold the fabric 2.) A bracket with arrows that
indicates the placement of a pattern piece on the folded edge when cutting.
Gathers
Fabric drawn together by tightening a row of running stitches creating a look of fullness
Godet
A triangular piece placed into a hem for fullness or decoration (cheerleader skirt)
Gore
vertical garment sections that are cut narrow at the top and wide at the hem.(panels)
Grading
hint: (think up or down grading)
The process of converting a pattern from one size to another.
Grain
The orientation of the threads in a woven fabric-either weft, warp or bias.
Grainline
A straight line with an arrow at each end used to position the pattern pieces on the fabric.
Hem/Hemline
Finished bottom edge of a garment.
Hook and Eye
Eye-A fastening system with a
small metal hook and a matching eye loop or bar.
Horsehair
a net-like ribbon used to add support to a hem.
Inseam
Vertical seams on the inside of the pant leg from the crotch of the pants to the hem.
Interfacing
Sew-in or fusible fabric applied to the wrong side of the main fabric for stiffening or
stabilizing.
Jewel necklace
simple round neckline at the base of the neck
Keyhole
A round or teardrop-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Kick pleat
pleat used for ease of movement in a narrow skirt
Lap
The part of a garment which extends over another, as on the placket of a dress shirt.
Layout
Chart on the instruction sheet showing the optimal placement of pattern pieces for cutting.
Length Adjustment Lines
Indicates where you can add or subtract length without affecting the
design of the garment.
Lining
A finishing layer of fabric that covers the construction details on the inside of the garment
Marking
Transfer of construction symbols from paper pattern to fabric with pens or chalk.
Muslin
1.) A test garment that checks fit and style prior to making the final garment 2.) The
name of the fabric used to do so.
Nap
A fabric texture or design that runs in a particular direction and requires all pattern pieces
be cut facing the same direction.
Notches
Small indents on the cutting line of a pattern outside the seam allowance that
indicates where the seams should meet or where another pattern piece should fit.
Notions
Items other than fabric or pattern needed to complete the garment (buttons, zippers)
Overlock/Serger
A machine used to finish the raw unfinished seam or edge to prevent threads
from unraveling.
Patch Pocket
A small pocket which looks like a piece of material was sewn on as a patch.
Peplum
small flounce, usually on a bodice that extends from the waist over the hips
Placket
garment piece that creates the opening and supports and hides the fasteners
Pleats
Multiple folds in a garment held by stitching the top or side.
Princess Seams
Seams positioned between the side seam and the center front and back, that
create a flattering, form-fitting shape.
Quilting
Two layers of fabric with some soft substance between them and stitched in patterns
or tufted through all thicknesses in order to prevent the filling from shifting.
Raw edge
Unfinished cut edge of a fabric or garment
Right side
referring to the side of the fabric seen on the outside of the garment.
Rise
Distance between the waistline and the crotch seam of pants
Ruffle
A strip or frilled or gathered fabric used for trimming or decoration
Seam Allowance
Width of the fabric between the cut line and the seam line (5/8” standard)
Selvage edge
lengthwise finished edges on all woven fabrics
Single-breasted
Center front closing with enough overlap to allow for one row of buttons.
Sloper
A basic, master pattern used as a building block for all patterns
Stitch Line
The line on which you sew, indicated by a dotted line on commercial patterns
Tailoring
special hand sewing and pressing techniques used to construct suits and men’s clothing
Taper
Cutting or stitching at a slight diagonal, generally to make gradually smaller
Tracing
transferring markings from pattern to fabric using a wheel and colored waxed paper
Topstitching
decorative stitch along a seam or edge done from the right side of the garment.
Underlining
lining placed under the fashion fabric to be sewn as one especially under sheer or
loose weave fabrics.
Velcro
Tape closure using one side of soft nylon bristles and side of rough plastic bristles
which when brought together sticks.
Vent
faced or lined slash in a garment for ease of movement
Warp
Lengthwise thread in a woven fabric that runs parallel to selvage
Weft
The crosswise threads in a woven fabric–traveling from selvage to selvage
Welt
Strip of material stitched to a seam, border or edge, as in tailored pockets.
Wrong side
referring to the backside of the fabric seen on the inside of the garment
Yard/Yardage
Unit of measure that is the equivalent of 3 feet, or 36 inches used for cutting
lengths of fabric.
Yoke
fitted section usually at shoulders or hips designed to support the rest of the garment
Zipper
a taped closure with interlocking teeth that open and close with a sliding tab.
