Quiz 3 Flashcards

1
Q

What are the two types of yarn?

A

Spun and Filament

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2
Q

How do you ID a spun yarn?

A

Spuns have more twist, they are “hairy,” when you twist and pull they come apart

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3
Q

How to ID a filament yarn?

A

Filament yarns are smooth

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4
Q

What is the use of a spun yarn?

A

warmth, softness, lightness

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5
Q

What is the use of a filament yarn?

A

smoothness, luster

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6
Q

what is yarn twist?

A

the number of turns and the direction that yarns are turned during the manufacturing process

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7
Q

what is the use of yarn twist?

A

increases strength

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8
Q

what are the twist directions?

A

S and Z

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9
Q

what are plied yarns?

A

there are single or ply yarns; ply is created by twisting together 2 or more single yarns

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10
Q

what is the use of plied yarn?

A

increases strength and evenness, reduces pilling of spun yarns

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11
Q

T/F: spun yarns are made from staple length fibers

A

TRUE

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12
Q

what are the types of yarn spinning?

A

ring spinning and open-ended

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13
Q

what are the methods used to make staple yarns?

A

carding and combing

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14
Q

What are blends used for?

A

used to combine desired properties of different fibers

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15
Q

what is a mixture?

A

a fabric composed of two or more different yarn types, i.e. filament or spun

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16
Q

what are the yarn numbering systems used for?

A

used to express a relationship between the unit of length and weight

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17
Q

what are the yarn numbering systems?

A

direct and indirect

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18
Q

the denier system

A

direct system, used for filaments. the lower the number, the finer the yarn/the higher the number the thicker the yarn
ex: a 100D yarn as twice the weight of a 50D yarn of the same length

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19
Q

the tex system

A

direct system, uses grams per 1,000 meters, only really used in sewing thread, intended to replace all systems

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20
Q

the yarn count system

A

indirect system, numbering system for spuns, the lower the number the thicker the yarn, inversely proportional to weight
ex: a 50 count yarn is twice the weight as a 100 count yarn

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21
Q

what is used for cotton and cotton blends?

A

cc (cotton count) or Ne (number english)

2 numbers, yarn size and yarn ply
50/1 = 50 single
40/2 = 40’s two

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22
Q

what is used for worsted?

A

worsted count system wc or NeK

reverse order, 1/50 or 2/40

23
Q

what is used for woolens?

A

run or NeS

24
Q

what is used for linen?

A

lea or NeL

25
Q

what are the fancy yarn types?

A

bouclé, chenille, fleck, gimp, ikat, jaspé, knop, loop, marl, metallic, multi-count, nub, splash, seed, sirospun, slub, snarl, spiral/corkscrew

26
Q

what is a woven fabric?

A

a fabric composed of two sets of yarns

27
Q

which way does the warp run?

A

lengthwise

28
Q

which way does the weft run?

A

perpendicular to the warp/widthwise (fills the warp)

29
Q

what is on grain/straight grain?

A

when the fabric is cut with the warp yarns running vertically

30
Q

what is cross grain?

A

when the fabric is cut with the weft running vertically

31
Q

what is bias cutting?

A

when the fabric is cut at a 45 degrees to the grain, has better drape

32
Q

what is a loom?

A

a machine used for weaving fabrics

33
Q

what is a shuttle loom?

A

boat-like device on weaving machies that carries the filling (weft) yarn across the fabric

34
Q

what is a shuttleless loom?

A

yarn is on cones - yarn brought across is cut at the selvedge

35
Q

what is selvedge?

A

The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns, prevents the fabric from raveling

36
Q

identifying warp yarns:

A

always parallel to the selvedge, usually thinner, stiffer in spun fabrics

37
Q

face and back

A

face has a better appearance, durability is usually addressed to the face side in manufacturing

38
Q

what are the three basic weaves?

A

plain, twill, satin

39
Q

what is plain weave?

A

Made from a simple alternate interlacing of
warp and filling yarns

40
Q

what is twill weave?

A

A wave with a diagonal effect is found on the face of the fabric. created by floating yarns

Right-hand Twill - up and to the right / Left-hand
Twill - up and to the left. Direction on the back is
the opposite

Simplest is a 2/1, or a 1/2. A 3/1 each warp passes over 3 weft then under 1. A 2/2 is a balanced twill. Angle of twill line - 45° is average, greater is a steep, less is a reclined twill

41
Q

what is a broken twill weave?

A

A weave combining both right and left hand twills in one fabric

42
Q

what is a satin weave?

A

A basic weave in which yarns float to the
face. Satin is also a fabric name - that of filament yarn satin weave fabrics

43
Q

what are the specialty weaves?

A

leno, pile, double cloth

44
Q

what is a leno weave?

A

Warp yarns twist back and forth in pairs
around each weft, holding them in place

45
Q

what is a pile weave?

A

Produced with an extra set of yarns (warp
or weft) known as pile yarns.
Cut - when the pile yarns are cut. Velvet is an example
Uncut - When pile yarns are not cut - Terry cloth is an example

46
Q

what is double cloth?

A

Two fabrics held together by a separate set of yarns. Made by two sets of warp/weft yarns,
woven simultaneously.

47
Q

what are the woven designs?

A

dobby, jacquard, clip-spot, color and weave effect

48
Q

what is dobby?

A

geometric forms and motifs

49
Q

what is jacquard?

A

Very detailed and intricate cloths are
produced

50
Q

what is clip-spot?

A

Extra warp or filling yarns used to create
motifs that the ends are cut away

51
Q

what is color and weave effect?

A

Using different color yarns to create
patterns in the fabric. Stripes, plaids, houndstooth, etc

52
Q

what are yarns per inch?

A

a measurement of quality. written warp X weft. known as fabric count, fabric density, and cloth count

53
Q
A