Quiz 3 Flashcards
What are the two types of yarn?
Spun and Filament
How do you ID a spun yarn?
Spuns have more twist, they are “hairy,” when you twist and pull they come apart
How to ID a filament yarn?
Filament yarns are smooth
What is the use of a spun yarn?
warmth, softness, lightness
What is the use of a filament yarn?
smoothness, luster
what is yarn twist?
the number of turns and the direction that yarns are turned during the manufacturing process
what is the use of yarn twist?
increases strength
what are the twist directions?
S and Z
what are plied yarns?
there are single or ply yarns; ply is created by twisting together 2 or more single yarns
what is the use of plied yarn?
increases strength and evenness, reduces pilling of spun yarns
T/F: spun yarns are made from staple length fibers
TRUE
what are the types of yarn spinning?
ring spinning and open-ended
what are the methods used to make staple yarns?
carding and combing
What are blends used for?
used to combine desired properties of different fibers
what is a mixture?
a fabric composed of two or more different yarn types, i.e. filament or spun
what are the yarn numbering systems used for?
used to express a relationship between the unit of length and weight
what are the yarn numbering systems?
direct and indirect
the denier system
direct system, used for filaments. the lower the number, the finer the yarn/the higher the number the thicker the yarn
ex: a 100D yarn as twice the weight of a 50D yarn of the same length
the tex system
direct system, uses grams per 1,000 meters, only really used in sewing thread, intended to replace all systems
the yarn count system
indirect system, numbering system for spuns, the lower the number the thicker the yarn, inversely proportional to weight
ex: a 50 count yarn is twice the weight as a 100 count yarn
what is used for cotton and cotton blends?
cc (cotton count) or Ne (number english)
2 numbers, yarn size and yarn ply
50/1 = 50 single
40/2 = 40’s two
what is used for worsted?
worsted count system wc or NeK
reverse order, 1/50 or 2/40
what is used for woolens?
run or NeS
what is used for linen?
lea or NeL
what are the fancy yarn types?
bouclé, chenille, fleck, gimp, ikat, jaspé, knop, loop, marl, metallic, multi-count, nub, splash, seed, sirospun, slub, snarl, spiral/corkscrew
what is a woven fabric?
a fabric composed of two sets of yarns
which way does the warp run?
lengthwise
which way does the weft run?
perpendicular to the warp/widthwise (fills the warp)
what is on grain/straight grain?
when the fabric is cut with the warp yarns running vertically
what is cross grain?
when the fabric is cut with the weft running vertically
what is bias cutting?
when the fabric is cut at a 45 degrees to the grain, has better drape
what is a loom?
a machine used for weaving fabrics
what is a shuttle loom?
boat-like device on weaving machies that carries the filling (weft) yarn across the fabric
what is a shuttleless loom?
yarn is on cones - yarn brought across is cut at the selvedge
what is selvedge?
The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns, prevents the fabric from raveling
identifying warp yarns:
always parallel to the selvedge, usually thinner, stiffer in spun fabrics
face and back
face has a better appearance, durability is usually addressed to the face side in manufacturing
what are the three basic weaves?
plain, twill, satin
what is plain weave?
Made from a simple alternate interlacing of
warp and filling yarns
what is twill weave?
A wave with a diagonal effect is found on the face of the fabric. created by floating yarns
Right-hand Twill - up and to the right / Left-hand
Twill - up and to the left. Direction on the back is
the opposite
Simplest is a 2/1, or a 1/2. A 3/1 each warp passes over 3 weft then under 1. A 2/2 is a balanced twill. Angle of twill line - 45° is average, greater is a steep, less is a reclined twill
what is a broken twill weave?
A weave combining both right and left hand twills in one fabric
what is a satin weave?
A basic weave in which yarns float to the
face. Satin is also a fabric name - that of filament yarn satin weave fabrics
what are the specialty weaves?
leno, pile, double cloth
what is a leno weave?
Warp yarns twist back and forth in pairs
around each weft, holding them in place
what is a pile weave?
Produced with an extra set of yarns (warp
or weft) known as pile yarns.
Cut - when the pile yarns are cut. Velvet is an example
Uncut - When pile yarns are not cut - Terry cloth is an example
what is double cloth?
Two fabrics held together by a separate set of yarns. Made by two sets of warp/weft yarns,
woven simultaneously.
what are the woven designs?
dobby, jacquard, clip-spot, color and weave effect
what is dobby?
geometric forms and motifs
what is jacquard?
Very detailed and intricate cloths are
produced
what is clip-spot?
Extra warp or filling yarns used to create
motifs that the ends are cut away
what is color and weave effect?
Using different color yarns to create
patterns in the fabric. Stripes, plaids, houndstooth, etc
what are yarns per inch?
a measurement of quality. written warp X weft. known as fabric count, fabric density, and cloth count