Quiz 1 Flashcards by Katelyn Sides

A very large molecule made by connecting many small molecules together. Almost all fibers are polymers made of organic materials, but some polymers are formed into thin films and used as textiles. For example, vinyl upholstery is a film, often applied to a more traditional textile knit or woven material for added durability.

Polymer

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Any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length-to-width ratio possessing suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric; the smallest component, hairlike in nature that can be separated from a fabric; can be absorbent (like cotton and rayon), stretchy (like spandex), warm and bulky (like wool), or very strong and abrasion resistant (like nylon and polyester)

Fiber

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An assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric; can be used to make a fabric that is smooth and slick like satin or soft and fuzzy like brushed denim

Yarn

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A flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics, in any combination; range from lightweight and sheer chiffon scarves to heavy and sturdy denim to rigid and from carpeting to technical products such as erosion control and medical tapes. Cloth and material are common synonyms

Fabric

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A term originally applied only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to any flexible material that is composed of thin films of polymers or of fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products made of these materials.

Textile

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Any fabric that has not been finished. Consumers rarely see these, except for home sewers and quilters who may work with muslin.

Gray goods

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Any dyeing or printing process used to add color with dyes or pigments to a textile; adds interest and fashion appeal to apparel and interiors.

Coloration

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Any process that modifies appearance or enhances performance of gray goods. Some make the fabric more comfortable such as brushing velveteen to produce the soft surface. With others, the consumer cannot determine the presence of it.

Finish

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Products constructed of textiles and other flexible materials including apparel, interior textiles, and technical textiles

Soft goods

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Clothing and accessories made from flexible materials.

Apparel

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Also known as interior furnishings or home fashions; describe textiles and textile products used in the home and other building interiors for functions such as absorbency or to add comfort and visual interest

Interior textiles

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The application or function for which a textile is designed or for which it is ultimately used

End use

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Sense and react to the environment or stimuli of an electrical, chemical, thermal, mechanical, magnetic, or other nature.

Smart textiles/fabrics

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Include a broad range of materials that are widely used in special applications of a technical nature and that are generally not considered apparel or furnishings.

Technical or industrial textiles

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The design and engineering of a product so that it has the desired serviceability characteristics, appeals to the target market, can be made within an acceptable time frame for a reasonable cost, and can be sold at a profit. It encompasses a range of activities and differs widely by companies and segments of the global textiles complex.

Product development

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The measure of a textile product’s ability to meet consumers’ needs. The emphasis is on understanding the target market and relating target market needs to the product. These concepts are aesthetics, durability, comfort, safety, appearance retention, care, environmental concerns, sustainability, and cost.

Serviceability

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The appearance or attractiveness of a textile product.

Aesthetics

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The manner in which the product withstands use, or the length of time the product is considered suitable for the use for which it was purchased.

Durability

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The way textiles affect heat, air, and moisture transfer, and the way the body interacts with a textile product

Comfort

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A textile’s ability to protect the body from harm

Safety

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How the product maintains its original appearance during use and care

Appearance retention

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The treatment required to maintain a textile product’s original appearance and cleanliness

Care

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The impact that the production, use, care, or disposal of a textile has on the environment.

Environmental concerns

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Practices and policies that reduce environmental pollution and do not exploit people or natural resources in meeting the lifestyle needs of the present without compromising the future.

Sustainability

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The way the production, use, care, and disposal of a product affects the environment and the people involved with the product

Life cycle impact

The amount paid to acquire, use, maintain, and dispose of a product

Cost

The manner in which a textile, textile component, or textile product responds to use or when exposed to some mechanical or environmental factor that might adversely affect it

Performance

The sum total of product characteristics such as appearance, end use, performance, material interactions within the product, consistency among identical products, and freedom from defects in construction or materials

Quality

Grown or developed in nature in recognizable fiber form

Natural fibers

Made from chemical compounds produced in manufacturing facilities. The material’s original form is not recognizable as a fiber.

Manufactured fibers

Any natural or manufactured fiber produced in or cut to a short length measured in inches or centimeters

Staple fibers

Fibers that are extremely long or yarns made of these fibers

Filaments

An intermediate stage in the production of staple manufactured fibers when manufactured fibers are produced in large bundles in filament length and crimped prior to cutting or breaking into staple fibers

Filament tow

Yarn or manufactured fiber size that is defined as weight in grams for 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn

Denier

A direct yarn-numbering system, also used to express fiber size; yarn or fiber size is the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of yarn

Tex

A way of describing fiber size; calculated by dividing the yarn size in denier by the number of filaments

Denier per filament (DPF)

Waves, bends, twists, coils, or curls along the length of the fiber

Fiber crimp

Fibers with similar chemical composition

Generic group

The process of connecting many small molecules (monomers) to produce one very large molecule, called a polymer

Polymerization

The number of small molecules (monomers) connected to form a polymer

Degree of polymerization

A random or disorganized arrangement of molecular chains within a fiber

Amorphous

Molecular chains that are parallel to each other in a fiber or in regions within a fiber

Crystalline

Refers to the alignment of the fiber’s polymers with its longitudinal axis

Orientation

The process of pulling a fiber so that the molecular chains rotate and slide until they become oriented and form crystals within the fiber to enhance certain fiber properties

Stretching

A fiber-finishing step in which a manufactured fiber is elongated after spinning to alter the molecular arrangement within the fiber, increasing crystallinity and orientation and resulting in a change in specific performance properties

Drawing

Attractions between positive hydrogen atoms of one molecule and negative oxygen or nitrogen atoms in another molecule

Hydrogen bonds

Weak attractive forces between adjacent molecules that increase in strength as the molecules move closer together

Van der Waals forces

The ability to occupy space for concealment or protection

Cover

The ability of a textile to allow light to pass through it

Translucence

The way light is reflected from the fiber or fabric surface

Luster

The manner in which a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D form

Drape

Describes the nature of a fabric’s surface as perceived by sight or touch

Texture

The way a fiber feels to the sense of touch

Hand

The ability of a fiber to withstand everyday rubbing or abrasion

Abrasion resistance

The ability of a fiber to bend repeatedly without breaking

Flexibility

The formation of tiny balls of fiber ends and lint on the surface of the fabric

Pilling

The ability to resist stress and is expressed as tensile strength (pounds per square inch) or as tenacity (grams per denier). Breaking tenacity is the number of grams of force to break a fiber.

Strength

Describes the strength of a fiber; describes the force at which the fiber ruptures or breaks

Tenacity

The ability of fibers to cling together, which is especially important in yarn spinning

Cohesiveness

The ability of a fiber to be stretched, extended, or lengthened

Elongation

The percentage of moisture a bone-dry fiber will absorb from the air under standard conditions of temperature and moisture; also known as moisture regain

Absorbency

Fibers with high moisture absorbency or regain

Hydrophilic

Fibers that have a high affinity or attraction for oil

Oleophilic

Fibers with high moisture absorbency or regain and the ability to remain dry to the touch

Hygroscopic

The fiber’s receptivity to coloration by dyes or its dye affinity

Dyeability

The ability to transfer electrical charges

Electrical conductivity

The ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along its surface

Wicking

The ability of a fiber to retain heat or to insulate

Heat

The ability to conduct heat away from the body

Heat conductivity

The ability to soften, melt, or shrink when subjected to heat

Heat sensitivity

The characteristics of a fabric that pertain to its relative ease of ignition and ability to sustain combustion

Flammability

The weight in grams per cubic centimeter of an object

Density

The ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at 4 C

Specific gravity

The ability to cause physical reactions such as skin redness

Allergenic potential

The ability to return to original shape after bending, twisting, compressing, or a combination of these deformations

Resiliency

Resistance to crushing

Compressibility

The ability to spring back to original thickness after being compressed

Loft

The ability of a fabric or pile to return to its original thickness after compression

Compression resilience is

The ability to retain a given size and shape through use and care; also refers to a finish that minimizes fabric shrinkage or growth in use or during care

Dimensional stability

The ability of a textile to retain its original dimensions during cleaning

Shrinkage resistance

The ability of a strained material to recover its original size and shape immediately after removing stress

Elasticity

The ability of fibers to recover from strain

Elastic recovery

Delayed or gradual recovery from elongation or strain

Creep

Resistance to deleterious changes over time

Aging resistance

Resistance to the growth of mold, mildew, or fungus

Mildew resistance

A finish in which the wool fabric is treated to be unpalatable or harmful to insects; resistance to insect damage

Moth resistance

The type of chemical reaction to which individual fibers are susceptible

Chemical reactivity

A finish or fiber modification to minimize the degradative effects of sunlight on fiber or dye

Light/sunlight resistance (SLR)

The impact on the environment of the production, use, care, and disposal of textiles and textile products

Environmental concerns

Describes practices and policies that reduce environmental pollution, do not exploit people or natural resources in meeting the lifestyle needs of the present, and do not compromise the future

Sustainability

An environmentally intelligent design framework that examines the overall impact of the production, use, care, disposal, and recycle potential of products from economic, industrial, and social perspectives

Cradle-to-cradle

The treatment required to maintain a textile product’s original appearance

Care

The resistance to bending or creasing of a fabric

Stiffness/rigidity

Fiber removed from a plant’s seed pod

Seed fiber

Fiber removed from the stem of a plant

Bast fiber

Fiber removed from the leaves of a plant

Leaf fiber

Several fibers belonging to the genus Gossypium used to produce commercial and craft textile products

Cotton

Companies and countries compete with each other by cutting wages and living standards for workers; production of goods is moved to places that have the lowest wages and production costs

Race to the bottom

A mechanical device used to separate cotton fibers from the seeds

Gin

Usable cotton fibers removed in the ginning process. It also refers to fiber debris that creates pills on fabrics or accumulates in dryer lint traps

Lint

Very short cotton fibers that remain attached to the cotton seed after ginning

Linters

(GM) also referred to as bioengineered or bio tech, cotton traits from one species are transferred to another to improve performance and reduce pesticide use

Genetically modified cotton

A type of extra-long-staple cotton

Pima/Supima/Sea Island

A waxlike film covering the outermost layer of a cotton fiber

Cuticle

A hollow central canal through which nutrients travel as a cotton fiber develops in the plant

Lumen

Ribbonlike twists along a cotton fiber

Convolutions

Cotton grown in colors of brown, tan, yellow, green, rust, and so on

Naturally colored cotton

Cotton produced following safe fiber-certification standards on land where organic farming practices have been used for at least 3 years

Organic cotton

Cotton produced on land where organic farming is practiced but where the three-year minimum for certified organic cotton has not been met

Transition cotton

Cotton fabric that has been washed with mild natural-based soap, but it has not been bleached or treated with other chemicals, except possibly natural dyes

Green cotton

Cotton grown and processed by regular mainstream practices

Conventional cotton

Fiber obtained from the fibrous mass between the outer shell and the husk of the coconut

Coir

The fiber removed from the seeds of the Java kapok or silk cotton tree

Kapok

A seed fiber from the Asclepias incarnate and A. syrica plants

Milkweed

The process of bacterial rotting or decomposing the pectin in plant stems in order to remove bast fibers

Retting

The process of cutting ramie, linen, hemp, and other fibers into shorter fibers to facilitate blending with cotton or processing on equipment designed for cotton

Cottonizing

The bast fiber produced by the flax plant

Flax/Linen

Irregular crosswise markings present in many bast fibers

Nodes

Short flax fiber, a large assembly of filament fibers to facilitate handling and processing during the production of manufactured staple fibers

Tow

Long, combed, and better-quality flax fibers

Line

A fiber removed from a perennial shrub grown in hot, humid climates

Ramie

A process used to remove ramie or any bast fiber from the plant stem

Decortication

A bast fiber produced by Cannabis sativa

Hemp

Federal law that does not distinguish between hemp and marijuana, and growing either is illegal, impacting the production and sale of hemp fibers

The US Controlled Substance Act

A bast fiber used to produce burlap and other technical fabrics

Jute

A bast fiber removed from the kenaf plant

Kenaf

A bast fiber removed from the Hibiscus ficulneus plant

Hibicus

Also known as aloo or allo, removed from the plant stem of the Himalayan giant nettle plant; also fiber from the stinging nettle plant stem

Nettle

A bast fiber made from the stem of the bamboo, a type of rayon made from regenerated bamboo pulp

Bamboo

A leaf fiber obtained from the pineapple plant

Pina

A leaf fiber obtained from a member of the banana tree family

Abaca

A leaf fiber produced in Africa, Central America, and the West Indies

Sisal

A smooth, straight, yellow leaf similar to sisal

Henequen

A miscellaneous cellulosic fiber

Rush/sea grass/palm fiber/water hyacinth

Cellulosic material often used in accent rugs because of their resistance to dry heat and soil

Maize/cornhusks

A fiber of animal or insect origin

Natural protein fibers

Fiber from various animals including sheep, Angora, and cashmere goats, camel, alpaca, and llama

Wool

Fibers with high moisture absorbency or regain and the ability to remain dry to the touch

Hygroscopic

The heaviest and coarsest of all hair fibers, are often quite short, and don’t display dye colors very well

Kemp

A sheep breed that produces superior-quality wool

Merino

Wool as it is removed from the animal with soil, suint, and other impurities present

Raw/grease wool

Process of removing the impurities such as sand, dirt, grease, and dried sweat (suint) from the newly removed wool

Clean/scoured wool

Judging a wool fleece for its fineness and length

Grading

The process of grouping textiles of similar characteristics to avoid creating problems in cleaning or to allow similar treatments

Sorting

Wool removed from animals less than 7 months old

Lamb's wool

Wool that has never processed into a fabric before

Virgin wool

A term for shredding wool yarns or fabrics to produce wool fibers for recycling

Garnetted

Wool from old apparel and rags that are cleaned, sorted, and shredded

Shoddy

Wool that has been processed into fabrics, garnetted, and processed into another fabric

Recycled wool

An airy, honeycombed core present in some wool fibers

Medulla

The main part of wool fibers, contains 2 cell types

Cortex

A 2D or 3D aspect in which fibers or yarns twist or bend back and forth or around their axis

Crimp

Contains 2 types of cortex cells, wool fiber is an example of wool

Natural bicomponent fiber

A horny, nonfibrous layer on the exterior of wool fibers

Scales

A method of producing a fabric directly from wool fibers by interlocking the fibers’ scales

Felting

The ability of fibers to mat together

Feltability

The protein found in animal fibers

Keratin

Information that allows consumers the ability to trace their purchases back to the specific ranch where the sheep were raised

Tracebac

The hair fiber produced by the Angora goat

Mohair

The fine underwool fiber obtained from the musk ox

Qiviut

The hair fiber procured by the Angora rabbit

Angora

The fiber produced by the Bactrian camel

Camel hair

The hair fiber produced by the cashmere goat

Cashmere

A fiber resulting from the breeding of feral cashmere goats with angora goats

Cashgora

The fiber produced by the South American llama

Llama

The fiber produced by the South American alpaca

Alpaca

The fiber produced by the South American vicuna

Vicuna/guanaco

The fiber produced by the Tibetan ox

Yak

The fiber produced by several varieties of caterpillars, including Bombyx mori, Antheraea mylitta, and Antheraea pernyi

Silk

The production of cultivated silk

Sericulture

The water-soluble protective gum that surrounds silk when extruded by a caterpillar

Sericin

The process of removing silk fibers from several cocoons and winding them onto a reel

Reeling

Silk that has not been processed to remove the sericin

Raw silk/silk-in-the-gum

Silk yarns and fabrics derived from waste silk

Schappe

The shorter waste fibers, often spun into silk noil fabric, that is fairly matte, and useful for more casual garments, also known as bourette

Silk noil

Naturally grown staple silk that is more irregular in texture and color compared to cultivated silk

Wild silk

A type of wild silk

Tussah silk

A naturally thick and thin silk resulting from 2 caterpillars having formed one cocoon

Dupioni silk

A standard way to describe the weight of silk fabrics and is abbreviated mm; one momme weighs 3.75 grams

Momme

The protein of silk fibers

Fibroin

The treatment of silk (an applied finish) with metallic salts to increase the fabric’s weight, hand, and dye affinity, it may result in accelerated degradation of the silk

Weighting

A silk fabric to which a metallic salt was added (at an amount specified by federal law) to improve hand, dye affinity, or drape

Weighted silk

The natural rustle made when two layers of silk fabric are rubbed together

Scroop

The silk from spiders of the Nephila and Araneus families known for exceptional strength, elasticity, and biodegradability

Spider silk