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Product Development > Product development midterm > Flashcards

Product development midterm Flashcards

1
Q

Apparel PD

A
  • the creation and realization of a garment from its initial concept to its sale to consumers
  • have to think about the brand AND the customer
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2
Q

knocking off

A
  • legal
  • see something on runway, trickles down
  • everybody does it
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3
Q

pros of private label

A
  • higher profit
  • exclusivity
  • quality control
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4
Q

cons of private label

A
  • no wholesaler support
  • long lead times
  • lack of customer brand recognition
  • initial unknown demand
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5
Q

target customer

A
  • a specific group of individuals at which a company aims its products and services
  • describe them with as much info as possible
  • can change, need to be specific
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6
Q

story telling

A
  • story needs to be told but may not always be exactly the same
  • creating a story to stay connected to the customer
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7
Q

Long lead times cause what

A

many missed opportunities in fashion

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8
Q

fast fashion/speed sourcing

A
  • quick manufacturing at an affordable price

- as seen with some of our favorite retailers

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9
Q

techniques to shorten lead times

A
  • trigger dates: the last possible date for an individual decision to be made without holding up the overall process
  • local production: try to eliminate various points of production
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10
Q

ways to buy extra time with deadlines

A
  • piece dyed fabrics
  • garment dyed apparel
  • delay packing assortment
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11
Q

most common definitions of merchandising

A

having the:

  • right style
  • at the right price
  • in the right place
  • at the right time
  • in the right quantity
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12
Q

macro trends

A
  • economic trends
  • demographics, psychographics
  • industry trends
  • competitive landscape
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13
Q

9 features of apparel

A
  • color
  • print or pattern
  • fiber content
  • fabric construction
  • texture/surface treatment
  • silhouette
  • garment construction
  • fit/size specifications
  • design details/trims
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14
Q

first question when creating a line

A

-whats selling, whats not, has the target customer changed

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15
Q

assortment planning

A

product managers are responsible for

  • planning the number of styles to be developed
  • the quantities, and the overall assortment
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16
Q

two different assortment approaches

A

assortment planning by

  • group
  • item
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17
Q

assortment planning by group

A
  • assortment including both tops and bottoms is developed around a related color theme
  • entire group will be delivered and shown on floor at same time
  • encourages a higher UPT
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18
Q

assortment planning by item

A
  • focus on specific styles rather than presenting a color-related collection
  • key items are presented and bought in large quantities, in wide range of colors
  • key items replenished throughout season to ensure inventory is available in store
  • other styles included to ensure presence of “fashion” on the floor
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19
Q

ratios

A

-its important to assort the styles in proper proportions to ensure profitability

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20
Q

common ratios to look at in GROUP collection buy

A
  • tops to bottoms style
  • fashion to core styles
  • basic colors to fashion colors
  • long sleeve to short sleeve
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21
Q

common ratios to look at in ITEM collection buy

A
  • buyer will look at similar ratios to group collection
  • quantity per style to entire purchase
  • ratio by end use (casual vs dressy, day vs evening)
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22
Q

fashion trend

A
  • an overall “look” that is becoming popular

- trends can be reflected in a variety of items and classifications

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23
Q

competitive shopping

A
  • shopping upscale stores

- shopping competing stores

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24
Q

trickle down theory

A

a style must first be adopted by people at the top of the social pyramid. The style then gradually wins acceptance at progressively lower social levels

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25
Q

trickle across theory

A
  • mass market theory

- fashions move horizontally between groups on similar social levels rather than vertically from one level to another

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26
Q

trickle up theory

A

the young-particularly those of low-income families as well as those of higher income who adopt low-income lifestyles - are quicker than any other social group to create or adopt new and different fashions

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27
Q

benchmark brands

A

best performing brands priced similarly to a customer’s brand choice

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28
Q

aspirational brands

A

brands that customers would desire if they were within their reach

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29
Q

what is pantone

A

pantone is a world reowned authority on color

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30
Q

color wheel

A

circular array of all the different hues that exist when white light is refracted into its component parts

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31
Q

hue

A

the individual pure colors on the color wheel

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32
Q

value

A

different values of the same hue are created when either white or black is added to that hue

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33
Q

chroma

A

different chromas of the same hue are created when grey is added to it

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34
Q

three types of color combinations

A
  • complementary
  • analogous
  • monochromatic
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35
Q

complementary

A

hues located directly across from each other on the color wheel

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36
Q

analogous

A

hues that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel

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37
Q

monochromatic

A

uses different values and chromas of one hue

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38
Q

color blocked

A

the use of contrasting blocks or panels of solid typically brighter color

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39
Q

color standards

A

selected by product developers for each collection and are to be matched in the production of the fabrics and garments

40
Q

lab dips

A

a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard

41
Q

light box

A

used by most companies to recreate the three most common light sources (fluorescent, incandescent, and daylight)

42
Q

spectrometer

A

which is a machine that calculates % figures by reading and comparing colors on fabrics

43
Q

metamerism

A

when colors match under one source of light but not another

44
Q

color range

A

the entire selection of colors that will be used in a line of apparel for a specific delivery or season

45
Q

four different ways that color is saturated

A
  • fiber dyeing
  • yarn dyeing
  • piece dyeing
  • garment dyeing
46
Q

fiber dyeing

A
  • earliest decision on color
  • colors must be chosen before the yarn is created
  • highest cost
47
Q

yarn dyeing

A
  • second earliest decision on color
  • colors must be chosen after the yarn is spun but before the fabric is knitted or woven
  • second highest cost
48
Q

piece dyeing

A
  • colors must be chosen after the fabric is knitted or woven but before its cut
  • cheapest cost of all four techniques
  • most common type of dyeing
  • cheap and efficient
  • disadvantage: large orders will require fabrics to be dyed in separate batches
49
Q

garment dyeing

A
  • latest decision on color
  • cheaper than fiber dyeing and yarn dyeing but more expensive than piece dyeing
  • most beneficial to the manufacturer than it is to the consumer
50
Q

dyeing techniques in order of cost

A
  1. fiber dyeing
  2. yarn dyeing
  3. garment dyeing
  4. piece dyeing
51
Q

dyeing techniques in order of the timing of the color decision

A
  1. fiber dyeing
  2. yarn dyeing
  3. piece dyeing
  4. garment dyeing
52
Q

print

A

when dye stuff is applied to the surface of a completed fabric or garment

53
Q

pattern

A

created as the fabric or garment is knitted or woven

54
Q

fabric printing

A

the application of a small amount of dye stuff to the surface of a fabric

55
Q

roller printing

A
  • metal rollers are engraved with the desired design, one roller for each color to be applied
  • the roller then prints one color of the design as it rolls over the fabrics surface
  • very expensive to make these rollers
  • used when quantity of printed fabric is high
  • quick and accurate
56
Q

rotary screen printing

A
  • similar to roller printing but the “rollers” are porous screen that allow the dyestuff to be squeegeed onto the fabric from inside the “roller”
  • cheaper to make these screens than to engrave metal rollers
  • used if total fabric quantity is smaller
57
Q

flat bed screen printing

A

-used mostly if a design is to be placed only on one part of a finished garment such as across the chest

58
Q

direct printing

A
  • most common type of printing
  • 1 step process
  • darker colors applied to front of fabric appear fainter on the back
59
Q

dye and discharge printing

A
  • at least a 2 step process
  • used when its very important to have a consistent dark-colored background in the design
  • usually more expensive than direct prints
60
Q

one way print

A
  • has a definite top and bottom, when you look at the fabric, it is either in the correct direction of upside down
  • disadvantage: wasted fabric
61
Q

two way print

A
  • designed in a way that there is no definite top or bottom

- allows for maximum fabric usage ensuring less wastage and lower garment cost

62
Q

conversational print

A

features pictures, words or other items that make it unique

63
Q

companion prints

A

two separate prints are needed to be considered companions, designed to be used together

64
Q

border print

A

has a special design or motif that runs along the selvedge of a fabric

65
Q

engineered print

A

similar to border print, except the design is intended to fall in the same exact place on every garment, causes lots of waste

66
Q

placement screen print

A
  • similar to engineered print, however the screens do not waste fabric
  • applied to fabric only after the pattern pieces have been cut out or the garment has been assembled
67
Q

color way

A

term used for “color combination”

68
Q

swatch names

A

strike-off: when the trial swatch is a printed fabric the swatch being submitted for approval is a strike off

handloom: when the trial swatch is a yarn dyed woven fabric
knitdown: when the trial swatch is a yarn dyed knitted fabric

69
Q

pitch sheet

A

printed form that is used to organize the information needed to recolor an original print in new colorways

70
Q

repeats

A

when a roller has evolved one full turn, the print will repeat itself

71
Q

dye lots

A

each batch of fabric that is dyed in a large quantity

72
Q

marker

A

large piece of paper showing the full-sized layout of all the pattern pieces

73
Q

gauge (GG)

A

-a form of measurement, measuring the number of needles in one inch width of the machine needle bed

74
Q

knits GG

A
  • finer gauge

- 12gg and higher

75
Q

sweaters GG

A
  • courser gauge
  • under 12gg
  • 3 gauge more common in winter to make chunky sweaters
  • 9 gauge more common for year round
76
Q

repeat stripe

A
  • yarn dyed

- size of maximum allowable repeat varies by type of machinery

77
Q

engineered stripe

A
  • yarn dyed
  • special knitting machines can create a wide repeat
  • high wastage since pattern must be placed on the same point for each garment
78
Q

doubleknit jacquard knit

A
  • yarn dyed
  • somewhat unusual and expensive
  • different colored yarns are knitted together into the fabric
  • backside shows all of the colors knitted together
79
Q

knit pattern types

A
  • repeat stripe
  • engineered stripe
  • doubleknit jacquard
  • self jacquard
  • pieced knit
80
Q

self jacquard

A
  • usually piece dyed
  • all one color
  • the pattern is a surface texture
81
Q

pieced knit

A

pieces of different color knitted fabrics are sewn together during the garment assembly process

82
Q

embroidery

A

automated technique of showing thousands of stitches in colored embroidery thread to form a design

83
Q

applique

A

small pieces of fabric are attached to a finished garment

84
Q

striped sweater

A
  • yarn dyed

- often knitted with a repeat

85
Q

doubleknit jacquard sweater

A
  • yarn dyed
  • different colored yarns are knitted together into the fabric
  • not floats
  • pulls different colors to front
86
Q

float jacquard

A
  • yarn dyed
  • different color yarns are knitted together horizontally
  • pulls specific color to front
  • snag easily
87
Q

ladder-back jacquard sweater

A
  • yarn dyed
  • less common
  • very heavy
  • front is very clean
88
Q

self jacquard sweater/cable sweater

A
  • pattern is formed by a variety of stitches, creating a surface texture
  • one of the most popular
  • requires special machinery
89
Q

intarsia sweater

A
  • yarn dyed
  • requires both hand and machine work in tandem
  • manually switch colors to form design
  • clean but expensive
90
Q

sweater pattern types

A
  • striped
  • doubleknit jacquard
  • float jacquard
  • ladder-back jacquard
  • self jacquard/cable
  • intarsia
91
Q

woven fabric (weaving)

A
  • Produced on a loom with a row of yarns that run lengthwise in the fabric
  • weft interlaced with warp
92
Q

plain weave

A

-most common

93
Q

twill weave

A
  • Recognized by the apparent diagonal ridges on the fabric surface
  • one over two
94
Q

knitted fabric

A
  • circular machine (most common method)

- flat bed machine: rectangle with straight edges and sides

95
Q

most common knit fabric construction

A
  • jersey (most common type): clearly visible front vertical and back horizontal
  • rib knit: alternates between plain and purl stitch, vertical front and back
  • interlock: for knits only, front and back are identical

Product Development (1 decks)

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