Producers, Bottlings and Prices Flashcards

1
Q

Francois Ravaneau

A

Style / Vinification Techniques: Harvesting has always been done by hand. Yields can be very different from vintage to vintage with 45 hl/ha in 2000 and 2001, 50 hl/ha in 2002, and 35 hl/ha in 2003. Inoculation is used to ensure wines ferment to dryness.. Fermentation lasts two weeks in cuve, and then the wine goes through malolactic fermentation. The wines are aged in old oak barrels and feuillette for 18 months.

Summary: The estate was founded by Francois Raveneau in 1948 when he consolidated vineyards with his wife (who was a Dauvissat). His father had spent years selling off his vineyards in Chablis pre-WW II, and the Chablis of post-war France was a place that showed little promise. Regardless Francois persisted and took advantage of cheap land prices in the 1960s and 1970s to expand his domaine. His son Jean-Marie joined the family business in 1979 after going to the Lycée Viticole in Beaune. His other son Bernard joined upon Francois retirement in 1995. Together, Jean-Marie and Bernard stay true to the same methods and Bernard’s daughter Isabelle has joined the estate. Francois died in 2000.

Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos
- 2020 - $2,850 47
- 2015 - $2,550 47
- 2006 - $2,650 47
- 2005 - $2,800 47

Chablis, Grand Cru, Blanchot
- 2020 - $1,500 47
- 2011 - $1,550 47, $2,900 EMP
- 2013 - $1,955 EMP
- 2009 - $3,485 FL
- 2005 - $3,800 EMP, $3,670 FL
- 2004 - $3,485 FL
- 2000 - $3,670 FL

Chablis, Grand Cru, Valmur
- 2020 - $1,505 FL
- 2018 - $2,000 47
- 2016 - $1,235 EMP
- 2015 - $1,575 EMP
- 2009 - $4,080 FL
- 2005 - $4,050 EM

Chablis, Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre
- 2020 - $1,250 47, $1,095 FL
- 2019 - $2,400 EMP
- 2018 - $1,200 47, $1,700 EMP
- 2012 - $1,585 47, $1,950 EMP
- 2011 - $1,500 47
- 2006 - $2,440 FL,
- 2005 - $1,500 47, $1,745 EMP, $2300 FL
- 2002 - $2,300 EMP

Chablis, Premier Cru, Mont Mains (Montmains)
- 2012 - $995 EMP
- 2006 - $2,255 FL
- 2005 - $2,300 FL

Chablis, Premier Cru, Vaillons
- 2014 - $2,255 FL
- 2012 - $2,225 FL
- 2011 - $2,030 FL
- 2009 - $2,255 FL
- 2005 - $2,565 FL
- 1989 - $1,710 EMP

Chablis, Premier Cru, Butteaux (within the Montmains vineyard)
- 2020 - $1,050 FL
- 2019 - $1,500 47
- 2018 - $1,650 EMP
- 2014 - $2,280 FL
- 2012 - $2,460 FL
- 2011 - $2,280 FL
- 2010 - $2,400 FL
- 2009 - $2,280 FL
- 2007 - $1,250 47
- 2005 - $2,155 FL
- 2004 - $1,125 EMP, $2,360 FL
- 2002 - $2,440 FL
- 2001- $2,440 FL
- 2000 - $1,895 EMP

Chablis, Premier Cru, Chapelot (within the Montée de Tonnerre vineyard)

Chablis, Premier Cru, Forêt (within the Montmains vineyard)
- 2014 - $2,850 FL
- 2012 - $2,360 FL
- 2010 - $2,115 FL

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2
Q

Vincent Dauvissat

A

Summary: Vincent Dauvissat ranks among the top producers of the region and is considered to be one of the most traditional. Robert Dauvissat started the property in the 1930s with his son René establishing its high reputation. Vincent joined his father in 1976, and eventually took over management of the entire estate. The most sought after wines are the Grand Cru Les Clos and Les Preuses, and the equally lauded La Forest Premier Cru, which many believe to be of the same quality as the two Grands Crus. Dauvissat makes a Petit Chablis which comes from a parcel of vineyards on top of the Les Clos vineyard, and the Villages level Chablis comes from a parcel adjacent to the La Forest vineyard.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Vincent prefers “natural farming,” using little vine treatments. All grapes are hand harvested, with grapes being pressed whole cluster. Fermentation happens in enameled steel and aging is always in oak. Vincent prefers to age the wines in 6-8 year-old barrels. The wines go through malolactic fermentation spontaneously, and tartrates are precipitated naturally. Unlike most producers in the region Vincent does not perform bâtonnage on his wines.

Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos
- 2020 - $2,335 FL,
- 2019 - $825 47, $1,660 FL
- 2018 - $690 EMP
- 2017 - $2,250 FL
- 2015 - 1,200 47, $895 EMP
- 2009 - $995 EMP
- 2008 - $760 EMP
- 2006 - $1,180 47
- 2005 - $1,185 47
- 2002 - $1,200 47
- 2000 - $1,250 47

Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Preuses
- 2018 - $810 EMP
- 2017 - $895 EMP

Chablis, Premier Cru, La Forest
- 2019 - $905 FL, $240 EMP
- 2018 - $820 FL

Chablis, Premier Cru, Séchet
- 2020 - $215 PSH
- 2019 - $200 PSH
- 2018 - $205 PSH
- 2017 - $205 PSH
- 2015 - $185 PSH
- 2011 - $140

Chablis, Premier Cru, Vaillons
- 2020 - $225 POH, $215 PSH
- 2019 - $200 PSH
- 2018 - $205 POH, $205 PSH
- 2017 - $205 PSH
- 2015 - $185 PSH
- 2013 - $180 PSH

Chablis, Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnere
- 2019 - $1,200 FL

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3
Q

Krug

A

Summary: The signature style of Krug is centered upon the art of blending. Each parcel is fermented separately, constituting upwards of 200 different wines in any single harvest. Each year, a selection of these 200 wines is blended together with a vast array of reserve stocks, and for the Grand Cuvée, this may include up to 50% reserve wine spanning over 20 vintages. All of their wines are considered Prestige Cuvée quality, and Krug is the leader in the luxury Champagne category. A proportion of their vintage wine is held back for a late release bottling, which is named Krug Collection.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Base wines are all fermented in small oak cask, 205 L in size. Malolactic fermentation may or may not occur depending on the vintage conditions. Each single lot is fermented separately and blended afterward to achieve complexity. Krug is known for using large proportions of reserve wine in each blend.

Grande Cuvée Brut NV
Brut Vintage
- 2008 - $1,250 FL
- 2006 - $1,285 FL
- 2004 - $695 PSH
- 2003 - $625 PSH

Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage
- 2006 - $4,155 FL, $3,000 47
- 2003 - $2,000 PSH
- 1998 - $2,950 PSH

Clos d’Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs Brut Vintage
- 2000 - $5,995 PSH, $4,995 EMP, $6,500 47, $4,300 POH
- 1998 - $4,995 EMP
- 1996 - $6,000 PSH
- 1995 - $5,000 PSH, $7,500 PSH

Rose
- $420 EMP, $385 47, $1,095 FL

Inaugural Vintage (for top wines): 1979 for Clos du Mesnil, 1995 for Clos d’Ambonnay

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4
Q

Salon

A

Summary: Salon was the creation of Eugène Aimé Salon, a self-made businessman, politician and gourmand. In 1905 he purchased a one hectare vineyard in Le-Mesnil-Sur-Oger making wines for himself and his Parisian lunch club. Salon states that the first vintage was 1905, released in 1911, but these wines were enjoyed privately and not available commercially. The first commercial vintage of Salon was the 1921 vintage. It is considered to be the first blanc de blancs Champagne. Aimé Salon made the wines until his death in 1943 and left the winery to his nephew. In 1988 the winery was purchased by Laurent-Perrier. Today it is run side-by-side with Champagne Delamotte, the fifth-oldest winery in Champagne. Salon is a Négociant Manipulant.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: There is only one wine made. It comes from the original vineyard purchased by Aimé Salon, and a few other parcels in Le-Mesnil. The wines are always vintage and always 100% Chardonnay and aged ten years on the lees before release. The Salon wines are known for their great capacity to age and are highly sought after by collectors and sommeliers alike.

Vintage
- 2012 - $1,200 47, $1,518 PSH, $1,650 POH
- 2008 (Magnums only) - $9,875 EMP, $5,995 PSH, $13,000 FL
- 2007 - $1,375 EMP, $995 PSH
- 2006 - $1,375 EMP, $950 PSH
- 2004 - $2,265 47, $1,375 EMP, $1,090 POH
- 1983 - $5,500 FL
- 1976 - $8,500 FL
- 1973 - $7,500 FL

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5
Q

Jacques Selosse

A

Summary: Jacques Selosse founded the estate in the 1950s and bottled his first vintage in 1960. His son, Anselme, took over as winemaker in 1980 after attending the Lycée Viticole de Beaune. Upon taking over, he reduced yields in the vineyards and began to move towards organic viticulture. Selosse in a proponent of oxidative production and low-dosage. His top wine, Substance, is created out of a Solera of twelve different vintages. Selosse was named best winemaker of the year by Gault-Millau in 1994. In the spring of 2013 burglars stole 300 cases of Champagne from Selosse’s cellars, worth nearly $350,000. Interestingly they took 16,000 front labels, 12,000 neck labels, and 2,500 caps, which leads to the conclusion that they were also planning on counterfeiting the Selosse wines as well. Selosse is a Récoltant Manipulant.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Selosse has some of the lowest yields in Champagne. Fermentation comes from all ambient yeast. He ferments the base wines in a mix of pieces (228 L), Fût (400L), and Demi-Muids (600L). Malolactic is free to occur naturally but does not always occur. The base wine is aged for 12 months in barrel; typically less than 20% are new. He uses a low dosage for most of his wines, save for the Exquise which has a dosage of 24 g/l. All of his other wines are between 0-5 g/l dosage.

Substance, Grand Cru: Solera began in 1987, NV, Bdb
- $1,355 FL, $1,300 EMP

Initiale, Grand Cru, NV, Bdb
- $580 EMP, $825 FL, $440 PSH

Champagne Extra Brut, “Version Originale”, NV, BdB
- $725/$750 EMP

Les Carelles, Le-Mesnil-Sur-Oger: Soler began in 2010.
- $790/$845 EMP

Exquise, Sec

La Côte Faron, (formerly Contraste): Single vineyard in Aÿ., NV BdN
- $1,005 FL, $790 EMP

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6
Q

Pierre Peters

A

Summary: Pierre Péters is a grower-producer located in the Cote de Blancs, and their reputation is founded upon their classic & sleek Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. Currently in its sixth generation, the estate is run by Rodolphe Péters, grandson of Pierre. The majority of their vineyards are located in Les Mesnil-sur-Oger, and the vintage Champagnes rely heavily on fruit from this vineyard. Their other vineyards are in the Grand Crus of Avize, Oger, and Cramant. They aim to showcase the subtleties of terroir in their wines and thus chose to farm sustainably and ferment in stainless steel. The Champagnes are considered racy, elegant, and mineral driven.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: In order to maintain the freshness and elegance of Chardonnay, they choose to ferment exclusively in stainless steel. All wines go through malolactic fermentation. The dosage varies, depending on the wine, though in general falls between 2-6 g/l.

Cuvée de Réserve Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
- $155 EMP

Cuvée Millésimée l’Esprit de (vintage) Blanc des Blancs Grand Cru Brut

Cuvée Spéciale les Chétillons Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage: Inaugural vintage 1971, BbB
- 2015 - $495, $450 EMP, $385 47
- 2011 - $325 47

Rosé for Albane Brut NV: Inaugural vintage 2009,
- $225 EMP, $258 47

Cuvée l’Étonnant Monsieur Victor NV, Bdb
- $745 47, $750/$7665/$770 47

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7
Q

Ruinart

A

Summary: Ruinart is the oldest Champagne house, having produced sparkling wines on a commercial scale since 1729. Ruinart’s style is largely dependent upon the Chardonnay grape variety, though uniquely, most of their Chardonnay grapes do not come from the Côte des Blancs. Rather, their most important vineyards for Chardonnay lie in northern Reims, around the Grand Crus of Sillery and Verzenay. This lends a richness and broadness to the wines. The Dom Ruinart is a Blanc de Blancs prestige cuvée, comprised of exclusively Grand Cru fruit, from both the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Base wines are fermented in temperature control stainless steel and receive full malolactic fermentation. Dosage ranges from 6.5 g/l for the Dom Ruinart to 9 g/l for the NV Brut.

Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
- $207 47, $180 POH, $200 PSH

Rose, NV
- $220 PSH

Brut NV (sold in EU market)

Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage
- 2010 - $585 47

Dom Ruinart Rosé Brut Vintage
- 2007 - $1,160 FL
- 2006 - $885 FL
- 2004 - $780 POH
- 2002 - $825 POH
- 1988 - $650
- 1985 - $2,770 FL

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8
Q

Bollinger

A

Summary: The story of Bollinger is the story of three families: the Bollinger, the Renaudin, and the de Villermont. The Comte de Villermont was an aristocrat who owned vineyards in Aÿ but because of his status, he could not make wine from his land. He met Joseph Bollinger, a German, and Paul Renaudin, who both were interested in the wine trade. They started the winery on February 6th, 1829. Joseph went on to marry de Villermont’s daughter, and Renaudin left the winery, leaving the firm in the Bollinger family. The current winery building was originally a de Villermont property. In 1865 Bollinger shipped a “drier” Champagne to England and in 1870 to the United States. During World War II the firm was run by the widow Madame Lily Bollinger. After keeping the estate alive through the war Bollinger purchased key vineyards in Aÿ, Grauves, Bisseuil, and Champvoisy. Today Jérôme Philippon is the first non-family member to run the firm, taking charge in 2008. Gilles Descôtes is now Chef de Cave.

Style / Vinification Techniques: The Special Cuvée is a non-vintage Champagne, which is generally Pinot Noir dominant with 25% Chardonnay and 15% Meunier. About a quarter of the base wine for the Special Cuvée ferments and ages in oak it is the only house that produces all of it’s own barrels. Bollinger keeps all of their reserve wines in magnums, putting aside 70,000 magnums a year into their reserve cellar which houses about 600,000 magnums. After blending, the wine ages for three years on it’s lees. The vintage wines are fermented and aged entirely in oak casks. The Grand Année is two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay. It rests for sixty months on its lees before disgorgement. The RD is based on the Grand Année but is aged on it lees for an extended period of time and is generally an Extra Brut. The Grand Année is labeled Brut, with a typical dosage of 6 to 7 g/l.

RD
- 2008 - $900 47
- 2007 - $650 47
- 2004 - $480 PSH
- 2002 - $750 PSH

Grande Année
- 2014 - $345 POH, $450 47
- 2004 - $350 PSH

Grande Année Rosé
-2014 - $425 POH, $295 PSH
- 2007 - $350 PSH

Vieilles Vignes Françaises
- 2007 - $1,965 POH
- 2005 - $1,525 PSH
- 2002 - $1,560 PSH
- 1999 - $1,800 PSH
- 1998 - $2,985 EMP
- 1990 - $8,610 FL
- 1988 - $3,875 EMP
- 1985 - $4,950 EMP

Special Cuvée, NV
- $250 47, $135 PSH

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9
Q

Jacquesson

A

Summary: Since 1974, the house has been owned by the Chiquet family, though originally it was based in Reims. The house has always been well regarded, though quality has improved since the Chiquet purchase. They are currently making a large statement by bottling 4 different single vineyard wines, as well as crafting their basic NV cuvée to be more representative of the vintage in which the base grapes originated. Since 2000, these NV wines have been labeled by bin number, starting with 728.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: The majority of the wines are fermented in large oak foudre, for structure and aromatics. All wines go through malolactic fermentation, and there is a period of lees aging lasting about four months before the secondary fermentation takes place in bottle. Across the board, they are known for using very low dosages.

Cuvée 7– Brut NV
- $125/$145 PSH, $150/$155/$140/$145 PSH, $175/$195 POH, $240 EMP

Corne Bautray Extra Brut Vintage
- 2008 - $425 PSH
- 2004 - $500 PSH

Champs Caïn Extra Brut Vintage
- 2004 - $500 PSH

Vauzelle Terme Extra Brut Vintage
- 2008 - $475 PSH

Terres Rouges Extra Brut Rosé Vintage

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10
Q

Philipponnat

A

Summary: The Philipponnat family has been growing grapes since 1522, and starting making their own wines at the beginning of the 20th Century. Their vineyards are concentrated in the Marne Valley, primarily in Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The range of wines is primarily Pinot Noir dominant, and oak is used for both fermenting base wines as well as storing the dosage wines. The house is best known for its single vineyard holding, the famed Clos des Goisses vineyard. Clos de Goisses, a 5.5 hectare vineyard with a 45 degree slope, is best known for its southern facing, slightly warmer hillside that ripens well, even in marginal vintages. The house employs a very low dosage across their entire range of wines.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Historically the wines were fermented in large foudres, though now a percentage is fermented in 228 L barrel. Overall, the dosage is very low, around 4-5 g/l for the Brut designated wines.

Royale Réserve Brut NV
- $225 FL

Grand Blanc Brut Vintage
- 2008 - $585 POH
- 1985 - $750 PSH

Cuvée 1522 Extra Brut Grand Cru Vintage: 70% Pinot Noir (from Léon), 30% Chardonnay (from Mesnil-sur-Oger). Inaugural vintage 1996.

  • 2005 - $300 PSH
  • 2003 - $325 PSH

Cuvée 1522 Extra Brut Grand Cru Vintage Rosé: 70% Pinot Noir (from Léon), 30% Chardonnay (from Mesnil-sur-Oger). Includes 8% still Pinot Noir from Clos des Goisses. Half of the wine is barrel-aged without malolactic fermentation.

Clos des Goisses Brut Vintage: Inaugural vintage 1935.
- 2012 - $845 47
- 2011 - $740 FL
- 2005 - $510 PSH, $510 PSH
- 2003 - $525 PSH

Clos de Goisses Juste Rosé: Inaugural vintage 1999.
- 2006 - $1,230 FL
- 2005 - $1,230 FL, $1,224 47

Les Cintres: 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay from a plot in the heart of Clos de Goisses. Inaugural vintage 2006.

Le Rémissonne: 100% Pinot Noir from the plot adjacent to Clos de Goisses. Inaugural vintage 2009.

La Léon: 100% Pinot Noir from between Dizy and Ay. Inaugural vintage 2006.

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11
Q

Louis Roederer

A

Summary: Original name of the estate was Dubois Père et Fils. It was named after Louis Roederer in 1833 after he inherited the estate from his uncle. Roederer expanded the business, particularly into the Russian market, and by the 1870s Roederer made up for one-tenth of Champagne’s total production. Louis’s son, Louis, invented Cristal, which was made exclusivley for Tsar Alexander II; the wine was packaged in a clear crystal bottle. The success of the firm quickly fell apart with the Revolution of 1917 in Russia, and the consequent villainization of all things associated with the Royal family. As the firm went into the Depression it was kept alive by the widow Camille Olry-Roederer who went without a salary in an effort to keep the firm afloat. She made important purchases for the estate, with great vineyards in the Montagne de Reims and the Côte de Blancs. The firm expanded once again under her 40 years of leadership. The estate was run by her grandson Jean-Claude Rouzaud, who also expanded the property, and is now run by his son Frédéric Rouzaud. The Roederer firm owns many wineries, including Champagne Deutz, Roederer Estate and Scharffenberger, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Chateau de Pez, Domaine Ott in Provence, Merry Edwards in Sonoma, Diamond Creek in Napa, and Ramos Pinto in the Douro Valley. The wines are made by Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon.

Style / Vinification Techniques: All of the grapes are manually-harvested and brought to one of the firm’s three different pressing houses. The firm has worked towards more environmentally friendly vineyard work, and has stopped using herbicides. The musts are shipped to the winery in Reims, where they ferment by individual lots with ambient yeasts. After the secondary fermentation the wines spend three years on their lees. After dosage, and corking, the wine spends another six months at the winery before release. Cristal is a blend of approximately 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, depending on the vintage. Between 15 and 25 % of the base wine for Cristal ages in oak, the oak barrels at Roederer are 6,000 liter fudre. The grapes for Cristal come from eight villages, seven of which are Grand Cru. The Rosé is also approximately 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, and the Pinot Noir goes through the saignée process to get its color, and is blended with the Chardonnay. Both Cristal wines spend between five and six years in the cellar with and an extra eight months after dosage and corking. Roederer avoids malolactic fermentation for all wines.

Cristal
- 2014 - $820 47
- 2009 - $465 PSH, 750 47
- 2007 - $450 PSH
- 2004 - $650 PSH
- 2002 - $675 PSH
- 1999 - $700 PSH, $1,100 PSH
- 1990 - $2,500 FL
- 1982 - $3,100 EMP

Cristal, Rosé
- 2013 - $775 POH, $1,500 47
- 2012 - $910 PSH
- 2009 - $1,522 47
- 2008 - $1,000 PSH
- 2007 - $1,130 PSH
- 2006 - $1,000 PSH, $2,565 FL
- 2002 - $1,650 PSH, $1,00 PSH
- 1999 - $1,100 PSH

Blanc de Blancs, Vintage Brut

Vintage Brut

Brut Premier, NV
- $140 POH

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12
Q

Chateau Rayas

A

Summary: Owned and operated by the Reynaud family, Château Rayas is currently run by fourth generation Emmanuel Reynaud. The estate name, Rayas, first showed up on bottlings in 1920. The family’s holdings include Château Rayas, Château des Tours and Château de Fonsalette. Within the Rayas property, there are 10 hectares of red grape plantings, devoted exclusively to Grenache. These 10 hectares support their two red Châteauneuf bottlings: Rayas and Pignan. They have two other hectares planted to Clairette and Grenache Blanc, from which they make a Châteauneuf du Pape blanc. Finally, they produce a Côtes du Rhône rouge called La Pialade, made from Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: A very traditional winemaking estate, Château Rayas ferments their red and white wines without de-stemming. Wines are fermented for around two weeks in concrete vats, then aged for a year in used barrels of varying sizes.

Pignan (Châteauneuf-du-Pape): Pignan means “pine tree” in French, and references the surrounding trees at the estate. Produced from younger vines, 100% Grenache.
- 2009 - $1,850 EMP
- 2006 - $720 PSH

Réservé Rouge (Châteauneuf-du-Pape): 100% Grenache.
- 2000 - $3,650 47
- 2009 - $3,500 47
- 2006 - $4,750 FL, $2,200 47
- 2003 - $2,500 47
- 1998 - $3,250 47
- 1989 - $6,000 FL

Réservé Blanc (Châteauneuf-du-Pape): Clairette and Grenache Blanc.
- 2010 - $1,500 47

Pialade (Côtes du Rhône): 80% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 5% Syrah.

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13
Q

Chateau Beaucastel

A

Summary: The history of the Château de Beaucastel itself extends well beyond 1909, with records dating back to the 1500s. Wine has been made on the property since the early 1800s. The modern history begins in 1909, when Pierre Tramier purchased the property and passed it to his son-in-law, Pierre Perrin. The Perrin family continues to own and operate the property today. They have considerable vineyard holdings located in the northern portion of the appellation in the lieux-dits of Chapouin and Coudeoulet. The vineyards are planted with all 13 authorized grape varieties, though the estate is known to use a high percentage of Mourvèdre in the red wines. They have practiced organic viticulture since the 1960s.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Beaucastel is considered a traditional producer: wines are de-stemmed and fermented in either cement or steel tank. Prior to fermentation, the red grapes are flash-heated for two minutes and then cooled—a process they have employed since the 1960s. Most grapes are fermented through the malolactic fermentation before blending. The wines are aged in old foudres for about 12 months and are bottled without filtering.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
- 2010 - $235 POH
- 2002 - $115 POH

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge
- 2020 - $210 POH
- 2019 - $200 POH
- 2001 - $385 POH
- 1989 - $650 POH

Hommage à Jacques Perrin: prestige cuvée, only produced in the best years; made from low-yielding vines. Inaugural vintage 1989.
- 2018 - $1,145 POH
- 2011 - $1,000 POH
- 2010 - $1,000 POH
- 2004 - $650 POH
- 2004 - $650 POH

Roussanne Vieilles Vignes: from a 3-ha plot of vines over 75 years old. Inaugural vintage 1986.
- 2010 - $300 POH, $475 POH
- 2002 - $375 POH
- 2001 - $225 POH

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14
Q

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe

A

Summary: The Brunier family founded Vieux Télégraphe in 1898 and bottled their first wine by 1900. The property is still family owned and operated, currently run by the fourth generation. All of Vieux Télégraphe’s vineyards are located in a single-vineyard block in the lieu-dit La Crau. This parcel is particularly well known, especially for its ability to retain water even in dry years. The name, La Crau, has appeared on the label of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape since 1994, although it does not refer to a special bottling. The estate prides itself on using old vine material in their wines; any vine younger than 25-30 years is vinified separately and used for the second label, Vieux Télégramme. Prior to 2002, their second label was called Vieux Mas de Papes.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Winemaking is traditional at Vieux Télégraphe, with a few modern influences. Grapes are de-stemmed and co-fermented in a combination of stainless steel and 100-hl oak vats. Post-blending, the wines are aged first in concrete vats and later in old, 70-hl foudres.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge La Crau
- 2020 - $275 47
- 2018 - $235 POH
- 2015 - $475 FL
- 2014 - $475 FL
- 2013 - $475 FL
- 2009 - $475 FL
- 2001 - $430 EMP
- 2000 - $420 EMP
- 1998 - $520 EMP
- 1997 - $460 EMP
- 1978 - $825 EMP

Télégramme (Blanc and Rouge): from young vines (less than 25-30 years)

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15
Q

Domaine du Pegau

A

Summary: Although not officially “established” until 1987, the history of Domaine du Pegau extends back into the 17th century. Pegau was previously known as Domaine Féraud before it was re-dubbed Domaine du Pegau by Paul Féraud and his daughter, Laurence. This helps to explain why 1983 was the first vintage of Cuvée Laurence, four years before they officially founded Domaine du Pegau. The domaine is considered a very traditional producer, with wines that are crafted for long-term aging.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: A traditional producer, Domaine du Pegau does not de-stem or use any filtration. The wines are fermented in concrete tanks and aged in old foudres for about 18 months.

Cuvée Réservée (Blanc and Rouge): Inaugural vintage 1985.
- 2020 - $280 FL, $168 47
- 2004 - $550 EMP
- 1995 - $780 EMP

Cuvée Laurence: Inaugural vintage 1983.
- 2018 - $350 FL

Cuvée a Tempo: 1/3 each Clairette, Grenache Blanc & Roussanne fermented in a combination of oak and steel. Aged in barrique. No Malo. First vintage 2014

Cuvée Da Capo: Old vine selection from 3 terroirs - La Crau, Les Escondudes and Montpertuis. Produced in just seven vintages to date. Inaugural vintage 1998.
- 2016 - $995 PSH
- 2007 - $1,00 PSH
- 2000 - $948 47

Cuvée Inspiration: Utilizes 13 varieties from 2 terroirs - La Crau and Les Escondudes. Only bottled in magnum. First and only released vintage is 2010

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16
Q

Domaine Leflaive

A

Summary: It’s difficult to argue with the assertion that Domaine Leflaive owns the greatest collection of Chardonnay-producing vineyards in the Côte d’Or. While the domaine’s history can be traced back to Claude Leflaive in 1717, it was Joseph Leflaive in 1905 who began to construct the modern version of the estate, expanding holdings from two to 25 hectares.

Next in line was Joseph’s son, Vincent (who snapped up the small Montrachet parcel), followed in 1991 by Vincent’s daughter, Anne-Claude, along with her cousin, Olivier. Olivier left to focus on his own négociant label in 1993, while Anne-Claude began experimenting with biodynamic farming of the estate’s vineyards. She began with a small parcel of Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet that was slated to be pulled out due to fan-leaf virus. When those vines responded well, her biodynamic experiments were expanded to several other parcels in Puligny-Montrachet. By 1997, after several years of fastidious, side-by-side comparisons of soil ecology, vine health and wine quality comparing biodynamic, organic and conventionally-farmed parcels, the entire estate was converted to biodynamic viticulture. Anne-Claude passed away in 2015, ans is succeded by Brice de La Morandiere’s, her nephew and great grand son of Joseph Leflaive, with winemaking being managed by Eric Rémy, who took over for the retired Pierre Morey in 2008.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Currently, Leflaive produces only white wines. Healthy fruit is of the utmost importance for the domaine, so the grapes are sorted in both the vineyard and the winery prior to pressing. The juice is settled for 12-24 hours before being racked to oak for fermentation and aging, and the percentage of new oak used is on the low side: up to 10% new for the Bourgogne, 25% for the premiers crus and 30% for the grands crus—except the Montrachet, which is usually aged in a single new barrel, often specially coopered to accommodate the precise size of the harvest. Neither primary nor secondary fermentation are inoculated, and bâtonnage is currently practiced with less frequency than in the past (it’s now stopped completely by Christmas). The wines are racked to stainless steel after 16 months, then lightly fined and filtered if necessary and bottled by gravity.

Montrachet Grand Cru: Inaugural vintage 1991.
- 2017 - $25,648 WS
- 2015 - $23,483 WS
- 2014 - $25,648 WS
- 2013 - $20,855 WS
- 2012 - $16,478 WS
- 2011 - $20,533 WS
- 2010 - $17,812 WS
- 2008 - $15,282 WS
- 2007 - $15,380 WS
- 2005 - $20,264 WS
- 2002 - $21,775 WS
- 2001 - $12,142 WS

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2020 - $5,200 47, $3,750 PSH
- 2019 - $2,500 PSH, $1,600 PSH
- 2017 - $2,500 47,
- 2016 - $2,500 47
- 2015 - $2,230 EMP

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2020 - $4,600 EMP, $3,300 PSH
- 2019 - $2,550 47
- 2018 - $2,350 47
- 2017 - $2,250 47, $1,300 PSH
- 2015 - $1,250 PSH

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2020 - $4,440 EMP, $2,995 PSH
- 2019 - $2,500 47, $1,700 PSH
- 2018 - $1,480 PSH
- 2017 - $1,850 47,
- 2016 - $1,995 EMP
- 2013 - $1,550 EMP
- 2010 - $1,025 PSH

Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles Premier Cru
- 2020 - $1,500 47, $2,220 EMP
- 2019 - $1,250 47, $950 PSH
- 2010 - $1,035 PSH

Puligny-Montrachet Combettes Premier Cru
- 2020 - $1,550 47
- 2019 - $1,135 EMP
- 2016 - $810 EMP, $575 PSH
- 2012 - $525 PSH

Puligny-Montrachet Folatières Premier Cru
- 2020 - $985 47, $1,500 EMP, $995 PSH
- 2019 - $800 PSH
- 2018 - $600 PSH
- 2017 - $925 47, $450 PSH

Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon Premier Cru
- 2020 - $885 47, $665 PSH
- 2019 - $820 EMP, $525 PSH
- 2012 - $295 PSH

**Domaine Leflaive, Sous le Dos d’Ane ** - appellated to Meursault, located in Blagny - $300 -$500

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17
Q

Domaine Roulot

A

Summary: Originally, the Roulot family was known for distilling; it was Guy Roulot who turned the domaine’s focus to winemaking and who first launched this estate toward its current level of stardom. Guy was a big believer in the distinctive qualities of his “deuxième crus” (village-level lieux-dits), bottling several outstanding, unique examples that became hallmarks of the estate. Guy passed away unexpectedly in 1982, and his son, Jean-Marc, left a career in acting to take over the domaine. Jean-Marc took over completely in 1989.

Jean-Marc converted the domaine to organic farming and added parcels to the family holdings: First he grabbed a small bit of Meursault Le Porusot Premier Cru in 2003, and then in 2011 he split the vineyard holdings of Domaine Manuel with Dominique Lafon, adding village-level vines as well as the Clos des Bouchères Premier Cru to the family’s portfolio. Jean-Marc continues to garner acclaim for his multiple Meursault premiers crus and lieux-dits bottlings; the domaine also continues to produce a Marc de Bourgogne, two eaux de vie and an apricot liqueur.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Roulot wines tend to be more reserved than the powerful Meursaults of Lafon or Coche-Dury. The grapes are sorted in the vineyard and winery, then crushed prior to pressing. The juice is run without settling into barrels for fermentation and aging, and the wines are aged in 10-30% new oak for 12 months with the lees stirred until malolactic fermentation completes. The wines are then blended and aged six months in stainless steel and are lightly fined and filtered prior to bottling.

Meursault Perrières Premier Cru

Meursault Charmes Premier Cru
- 2019 - $1,050 47

Meursault Les Bouchères Premier Cru: Inaugural vintage 2011
- 2020 - $1,150 47
- 2019 - $1,140 47
- 2018 - $1,100 47
- 2017 - $1,150 47
- 2004 - $975 EMP

Meursault Clos des Bouchères Premier Cru
- 2020 - $1,150 EMP
- 2019 - $1,140 EMP
- 2018 - $1,110 EMP
- 2017 - $1,150 EMP
- 2016 - $960 EMP, $675 PSH
- 2015 - $925 EMP

Meursault Les Tessons, Clos de Mon Plaisir
- 2016 - $450 PSH
- 2008 - $675
- 2005 - $790
- 2004 - $540

Meursault Les Luchets
- 2020 - $450 EMP
- 2006 - $530 EMP

Meursault Les Meix-Chavaux
- 2020 - $600 47

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18
Q

Coche-Dury

A

Summary: Jean-François Coche-Dury produces some of the most sought-after bottles of white Burgundy that routinely command stratospheric prices. Jean-François took over from his father in 1972 and is now passing the family vineyards along to his son Raphaël. Jean-François is adamant that the quality of his wines is set in the vineyard, where the immaculate vines are pruned to very low yields. There are no clones in the Coche-Dury vineyards; all vine-by-vine replanting is done by selection massale. While mostly famous for white wines, Coche-Dury also makes excellent, rare red wines.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Coche-Dury wines are known for their focus and power as well as strong oak signature. The whites are whole-cluster pressed and settled prior to fermentation in a large proportion of new oak for top wines; bâtonnage is typically employed, though the frequency changes according to vintage conditions. The whites also age in oak for 18-22 months prior to bottling without filtration. As for the red grapes, they are completely de-stemmed and spend roughly 10-14 days on the skins. Aging is in less new wood than the whites, and the reds are bottled after 14-16 months in barrel.

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
- 2015 - $11,050 POH, $9,250 47, $12,000 EMP
- 2014 - $9,200 47
- 2013 - $4,750 PSH, $7,585 EMP
- 2000 - $7,100 EMP

Corton Grand Cru Rouge
- 2013 - $1,395 PSH, $6,300 POH, $3,200 47, $2,500 EMP

  • 2019 - $3,850 POH (HospicesdeBeaune|CuvéeCharlotteDumay)
  • 2018 - $3,850 POH (HospicesdeBeaune|CuvéeCharlotteDumay)
  • 2018 - $4,250 POH (HospicesdeBeaune|CuvéeCharlotteDumay)

Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru
- 2020 - $3,675 WS
- 2019 - $4,079 WS
- 2018 - $2,858 WS
- 2017 - $3,214 WS
- 2016 0 $3,061 WS

Meursault Perrières Premier Cru
- 2016 - $3,775 WS
- 2014 - $4,751 WS
- 2013 - $3,795 WS
- 2012 - $4,817 WS
- 2011 - $3,984 WS
- 2010 - $5,385 WS

Meursault Caillerets Premier Cru
- 2020 - $2,562 WS
- 2019 - $2,460 WS
- 2018 - $2,181 WS
- 2017 - $2,421 WS
- 2016 - $2,057 WS

Meursault Les Rougeots
- 2020 - $1,807 WS
- 2019 - $1,950 WS
- 2018 - $1,707 WS
- 2017 - $1,931 WS
- 2016 - $1,950 WS

Volnay Premier Cru: blended from Caillerets and Clos de Chênes
- 2017 - $1,700 47

Pommard Epenots Premier Cru
- 2019 - $1,950 (Hospices de Beaune Cuvée Suzanne Chaudron) 47
- 2018 - $3,000 (Hospices de Beaune Cuvée Dom Goblet) 47

Pulingy-Montrachet Les Enseigneres
- 2014 - $2,800 47
- 1997 - $2,574 47

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19
Q

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

A

Summary: Pierre-Yves Colin is the oldest son of Saint-Aubin’s Marc Colin. In 2001, while working at the family domaine, Pierre-Yves began a négociant project with his wife, Caroline Morey. In 2005, he left Domaine Marc Colin to focus on this new business, and in 2006 he took his share of the family vines to found his own domaine in addition to his négociant work. With last names like Colin and Morey in this part of town, Pierre-Yves’s and Caroline’s list of local grower contacts is long, and they regularly produce an extensive lineup of grand and premier cru wines from Chassagne and Puligny-Montrachet. In their own vineyards, they are currently experimenting with organic viticulture, yields are controlled by severe green pruning, and dead vines are replaced by sélection massale. In a short period of time, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey cemented itself as a star producer in Burgundy.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Pierre-Yves’s wines are powerful and clean. The whites are whole-cluster pressed, and the juice goes directly to barrel without settling. The wines ferment with indigenous yeast in 30% new oak—50% new for the Bâtard-Montrachet. Around 80% of the barrels are 350 liters (rather than the traditional 228-liter pièce) in order to minimize the impact of new oak on the wine. The cellar is kept cool during malolactic fermentation, which finishes eight to nine months after harvest. The wines spend 16-20 months there prior to bottling, and bâtonnage is not practiced. The wines are fined if needed, and bottled without filtration.

Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2012 - $7,200 47

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
- 2019 - $925 47
- 2018 - $750 47
- 2017 - $780 EMP
- 2016 - $750 EMP

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2020 - $3,300 EMP

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets Premier Cru
- 2020 - $400 WS
- 2019 - $391 WS
- 2018 - $414 WS
- 2016 - $300 WS
- 2015 - $339 WS

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes Premier Cru
- 2020 - $345 WS
- 2019 - $304 WS
- 2018 - $291 WS
- 2017 - $272 WS
- 2016 - $299 WS

Saint-Aubin En Remilly Premier Cru
- 2020 - $345 EMP

Saint-Aubin La Chatenière Premier Cru
- 2020 - $190 WS
- 2019 - $189 WS
- 2018 - $180 WS
- 2017 - $190 WS
- 2016 - $159 WS

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières
- 2020 - $177 WS
- 2019 - $355 WS
- 2018 - $245 WS
- 2017 - $268 WS
- 2016 - $247 WS

Meursault Les Charmes Premier Cru
- 2015 - $720 47

Meursault Perrieres Premier Cru
- 2013 - $875 EMP

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20
Q

Marquis d’Angerville

A

Summary: The Marquis d’Angerville was an important influence in the domaine-bottling movement in Burgundy. In the 1920s, Jacques d’Angerville was highly critical of the négociants’ widespread fraudulent blending in their cellars, and after threatening a lawsuit that left him without clients for his bulk wine, Jacques was forced to bottle, market and sell the wines himself.

Today, the flagship of the estate remains the monopole Clos des Ducs, which lies just north of the family’s manor house in Volnay. The estate is run by the current Marquis, Guillaume d’Angerville, who has maintained the exemplary quality of the wines while converting the vineyards to biodynamics in 2009.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Vinification is fairly traditional at d’Angerville: The red grapes are completely de-stemmed, and all grapes are cooled and fermented with indigenous yeast, with macerations lasting 15-21 days. The free-run and press wines are combined and racked after two days of settling into barrels. A maximum of 20% new oak is used. The wines are aged in barrel for 15-18 months and are only fined and filtered if absolutely necessary before bottling. While pale in color, the wines have a history of aging very well.

Volnay des Angles Premier Cru
- 2015 - $330 EMP
- 2014 - $275 EMP
- 2013 - $285 EMP

Volnay Clos des Ducs Premier Cru
- 2020 - $825 EMP, $795 47
- 2019 - $820 EMP, $785 47
- 2017 - $690 EMP, $685 47
- 2016 - $605 EMP
- 2015 - $575 EMP, $575 47
- 2014 - $550 EMP
- 2011 - $450 EMP
- 2005 - $985 EMP
- 1990 - $2,530 EMP
- 1988 - $2,780 EMP

Volnay Fremiets Premier Cru
- 2020 - $385 EMP
- 2019 - $380 EMP
- 2017 - $370 EMP
- 2012 - $421 47
- 2011 - $265 EMP

Volnay Champans Premier Cru
- 2020 - $480 EMP
- 2019 - $475 EMP
- 2017 - $470 EMP
- 2016 - $385 EMP
- 2015 - $310 EMP
- 2014 - $320 EMP
- 2012 - $345 EMP
- 2011 - $320 EMP

Volnay Caillerets Premier Cru
- 2020 - $470 EMP
- 2019 - $475 EMP
- 2017 - $470 EMP, $450 47
- 2015 - $462 47
- 2011 - $345 EMP

Volnay Taillepieds Premier Cru
- 2020 - $470 EMP
- 2019 - $475 EMP
- 2012 - $365 EMP
- 2011 - $315 EMP

Volnay Premier Cru: blended from small holdings in Mitans, Pitures and (prior to 2008) Les Angles
- 2020 - $275 EMP
- 2019 - $285 EMP

Volnay Santenots Premier Cru
- 2020 - $390 EMP
- 2019 - $410 EMP
- 2018 - $405 EMP
- 2017 - $395 47
- 2015 - $388 47
- 2013 - $345 EMP
- 2012 - $345 EMP
- 2011 - $360 EMP

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21
Q

Domaine Ramonet

A

Summary: Pierre Ramonet was a legendary figure in Chassagne-Montrachet, known as Père Ramonet locally. His domaine, which began bottling its own wines in the 1930s is now run by his two grandsons, Noël and Jean-Claude, and they are are strong believers in the value of old vines: All wines from vineyards younger than 12 years are declassified by one tier. Dead or missing vines are replanted only until the vineyard reaches 30 years of age; after that, the parcel is left intact until it must be replanted in entirety. Noël and Jean-Claude are both equally involved in the vineyard, the cellar and the business, and they are doing an admirable job of upholding their grandfather’s lofty standards.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Ramonet wines are powerful and concentrated, largely due to the old vineyards from which they hail. The whites begin fermentation in stainless steel and are transferred to barrel to finish. The amount of new oak used is 10% for the village-level wines, 25-30% for the premier crus and 50-75% for the grand crus. There is very little bâtonnage practiced during barrel-aging, and the whites are bottled after 12-18 months. The red grapes are completely de-stemmed and briefly cold-soaked before fermentation. Pigeage and remontage are kept to a minimum to limit the tannins, and the reds are aged in 30-40% new oak for 12-15 months prior to bottling.

Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2015 - $3,300 EMP
- 2011 - $12,820 FL
- 2010 - $14,725 FL
- 2007 - $13,270 FL

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru: Made from must purchased from Domaine Chartron
- 2018 - $2,100 PSH
- 2016 - $1,300 PSH
- 2010 - $5,230 FL
- 2009 - $5,230 FL

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2018 - $1,500 PSH
- 2016 - $1,200 PSH, $1,080 POH
- 2017 - $1,355 POH
- 2011 - $3,875 FL
- 2010 - $4,870 FL

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2018 - $1,325 PSH
- 2015 - $845 PSH, $845 PSH
- 2014 - $750 PSH
- 2011 - $3,835 FL
- 2010 - $4,715 FL

Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet Premier Cru
- 2018 - $400 PSH
- 2015 - $345 PSH

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets Premier Cru
- 2014 - $285 PSH

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ruchottes Premier Cru
- 2018 - $585 POH
- 2017 - $575 POH
- 2016 - $400 PSH
- 2015 - $405 PSH

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers Premier Cru
- 2018 - $350 PSH
- 2012 - $300 PSH

Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Premier Cru (white and red)

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22
Q

Domaine des Comtes Lafon

A

Summary: The origins of the Comtes Lafon estate lie in the marriage of Jules Lafon into a family of Meursault wine growers and négociants in 1894. Jules was a lawyer and eventually the mayor of Meursault, but he also took an active interest in the family wine business, selling off lesser vineyards to purchase land in some of Meursault’s top premier crus. He also re-established the old tradition of celebrating the end of harvest with a grand lunch, known as La Paulée.

Jules’s great-grandson, Dominique Lafon, now runs the estate. By 1993, Dominique had ended all of the métayage agreements that had kept the family vineyards in sharecropping arrangements, and he began converting to organic farming as well as experimenting with biodynamics. He completed full biodynamic conversion of the family vineyards in 1998.

The domaine possesses an enviable array of top premier cru vineyard sites in Meursault as well as a small holding in Montrachet. In 2011, Dominique teamed up with Jean-Marc Roulot and American investors to purchase Domaine Manuel, which added vineyards in Meursault Bouchères and Porusots to the Lafon domaine. Separately, Dominique produces wine in the Mâconnais under his Héritiers du Comte Lafon label (from land purchased in 1999), and in 2008 he also began producing wines from the Côte d’Or under his own name (not affiliated with the family properties).

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Comte Lafon whites, in particular, are powerful and long-lived (though the reds should not be underestimated). The white grapes are sorted in the vineyard and in the winery, then whole-cluster pressed. After settling overnight, the juice is racked to barrels for fermentation and aging. Village wines see no new oak, premiers crus see 20-50% new, and the Montrachet goes into 100% new oak. Bâtonnage is practiced much less frequently than in the past, and decisions are made on a barrel-by-barrel basis. After malolactic fermentation, the wines are racked and blended, then moved to cooler cellars for the final year of aging—total aging time in wood is 18-22 months. The whites are fined if needed but bottled unfiltered.

The red grapes are completely de-stemmed prior to vinification in open-top vats with native yeasts. Pigeage takes place once or twice a day, and the wines spend 15-20 days on the skins. The red wines are aged in 20-35% new oak for 16-20 months and are bottled without fining or filtration.

Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2019 - $5,000 EMP
- 2015 - $4,200 PSH
- 2013 - $3,000 PSH

Meursault Charmes Premier Cru
- 2018 - $575 PSH
- 2011 - $490 PSH

Meursault Perrières Premier Cru
- 2020 - $750 EMP
- 2019 - $675 PSH
- 2017 - $950 EMP
- 2015 - $580 PSH

Meursault Gouttes d’Or Premier Cru
- 2020 - $750 EMP
- 2019 - $725 EMP

Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru
Meursault Clos de la Barre: from the vines planted in 1999 and earlier
- 2019 - $410 47
- 2018 - $394 47

Volnay Santenots du Milieu Premier Cru: from the vines planted in 1978 and earlier - Rouge
- 2020 - $450 EMP
- 2019 - $510 47
- 2016 - $425 47
- 2015 - $450 47
- 2014 - $410 47
- 2013 - $435 47
- 2012 - $415 47
- 2011 - $410 47
- 1996 - $625 47
- 1995 - $570 47

Volnay Clos de Chenes Premier Cru
- 2019 - $450 PSH
- 2015 - $450 PSH

Volnay Champians
- 2017 - $510 POH
- 2014 - $395 POH
- 2013 - $300 PSH
- 2011 - $375 PSH

Meursault Porusots Premier Cru
- 2015 - $800 PSH
- 2012 - $595 PSH

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23
Q

Etienne Sauzet

A

Summary: The recent history of the Etienne Sauzet domaine demonstrates the difficulty of keeping a domaine intact in Burgundy’s modern era. Etienne Sauzet originally founded the domaine in the 1920s, and by the 1950s he had expanded it to 7.5 hectares; he also commenced bottling under his own name. In 1989, Etienne’s daughter divided the vineyards between her three children, Jean-Marc Boillot, Henri Boillot, and Jeanine Boudot—though she did not stipulate that the domaine had to remain intact. Jean-Marc took his vines and launched his own label in 1991. Henri leased his share back to the domaine while focusing his own attention on the Boillot domaine and négociant business. And finally, Jeanine and her husband, Gérard Boudot, continued to run the Etienne Sauzet domaine. In addition, they started a négociant business to replace the loss of Jean-Marc’s third of the domaine. For this reason, the wines are always labeled “Etienne Sauzet,” regardless of whether the fruit is purchased or from the estate. Today, Gérard and Jeanine’s daughter and son-in-law, Emilie and Benoît Riffault, manage the domaine.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Domaine Etienne Sauzet aims for concentrated grapes via proper pruning and balanced vines; a green harvest is generally avoided. The grapes are picked at physiological maturity, taking great pains to avoid over-ripeness and botrytis. After sorting in the vineyard and winery, the grapes are whole-cluster pressed, and the juice is settled overnight. All of the wines except for the Bourgogne Blanc are vinified in oak with native yeasts. The amount of new oak is 20% for the village-level wines, 30% for the premiers crus and 40% for the grands crus. The wines are aged in barrel for 12 months before being racked to stainless steel, where they settle for six months prior to bottling. The wines are fined and filtered prior to bottling.

Montrachet Grand Cru: made from wine purchased from Baron Thénard
- 2017 - $2,075 PSH
- 2016 - $3,500 FL, $2,045 POH
- 2015 - $1,425 PSH
- 2012- $1,700 PSH

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru: made from purchased grapes
- 2017 - $1,500 PSH
- 2015 - $1,225 POH
- 2014 - $1,850 EMP
- 2012 - $1,200 PSH

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2016 - $950 POH
- 2014 - $1,325 EMP
- 2009 - $545 PSG

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2019 - $1,365 PSH
- 2016 - $950 PSH
- 2014 - $1,325 EMP

Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Canet Premier Cru
- 2020 - $450 47

Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Gain Premier Cru
- 2019 - $285 47
- 2012 - $245 PSH

Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes Premier Cru
- 2018 - $515 47
- 2017 - $415 PSH
- 2016 - $455 POH
- 2012 - $395 PSH

Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières Premier Cru
- 2017 - $295 PSH
- 2016 - $275 PSH

Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières Premier Cru
Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts Premier Cru
- 2020 - $290 PSH

Pulingy-Montrachet Clos de la Truffiere Premier Cru
- 2016 - $300 PSH

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24
Q

Domaine d’Auvenay & Domaine Leroy

A

Summary: Leroy is one of Burgundy’s storied names, today running essentially three family enterprises: Maison Leroy, Domaine Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay.

Maison Leroy is a négociant firm (founded in 1868) that’s currently run by the legendary Lalou Bize-Leroy. Maison Leroy possesses a renowned collection of older Burgundies (dating back to 1919) that were purchased from top domaines and have aged chez Leroy for later release.

In 1988, Lalou sold one-third of Maison Leroy to her Japanese importer, Takashimaya, in order to generate capital for the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and the founding of Domaine Leroy. In 1989, Lalou added the holdings of Domaine Philippe Remy to Domaine Leroy, and in 1990 she purchased vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny that brought the total size of Domaine Leroy to its current 22 hectares.

Domaine d’Auvenay was the personal estate of Lalou’s father, Henri, and is now wholly owned by Lalou since the purchase of her sister’s share.

All of the vineyards of Domaine d’Auvenay and Domaine Leroy are farmed biodynamically and picked at extremely low yields (this frequently requires special permission to pick before the ban des vendanges, as Lalou’s extremely small crops ripen earlier on her healthy vines).

The wines from Lalou’s three arms of business can be easily distinguished by their packaging. All Leroy wines have essentially the same label yet different capsules: Maison Leroy wines boast a white capsule, while Domaine Leroy whites have a gold capsule/wax, and the reds have a red capsule/wax. Domaine d’Auvenay wines have a completely different label that reads “Lalou Bize-Leroy” at the bottom.

The Domaine Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay wines are among the most expensive in Burgundy, a factor of both their rarity and quality.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: All of the wines of Domaine d’Auvenay and Domaine Leroy show great concentration and depth of color due to the extremely low yields pursued by Lalou Bize-Leroy. The grapes are harvested in small baskets to keep the fruit intact, and the reds are fermented without de-stemming in wooden vats. The reds are fermented on the skins and stems for around 21 days with two or three pigeages daily. Both whites and reds are aged in 100% new oak for 14-18 months prior to bottling without fining or filtration.

Top Wines Produced - Domaine d’Auvenay:

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2013 - $33,788 WS
- 2011 - $31,953 WS
- 2009 - $31,953 WS
- 2007 - $31,740 WS
- 2006 - $29,141 WS

Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2006 - $17,958 WS
- 2005 - $22,084 WS
- 2004 - $23,553 WS
- 2002 - $14,570 WS

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
- 2014 - $14,504 WS
- 2013 - $11,840 WS
- 2011 - $11,084 WS
- 2009 - $18,616 WS
- 2008 - $13,420 WS

Meursault Gouttes d’Or Premier Cru
- 2011 - $15,545 WS
- 2009 - $10,864 WS
- 2007 - $22,510 WS
- 2006 - $9,004 WS
- 2005 - $10,455 WS

Puligny-Montrachet Folatières Premier Cru
- 2014 - $11,398 WS
- 2011 - $9,246 WS
- 2009 - $15,439 WS
- 2007 - $14,959 WS
- 2006 - $10,567 WS

Meursault Narvaux
- 2014 - $13,810 WS
- 2013 - $10,701 WS
- 2011 - $10,612 WS
- 2009 - $8,729 WS
- 2008 - $12,787 WS

Top Wines Produced - Domaine Leroy:

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
- 2015 - $62,999 WS
- 2014 - $13,972 WS
- 2011 - $13,173 WS
- 2009 - $14,506 WS
- 2008 - $13,883 WS

Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2015 - $13,968 WS
- 2014 - $11,893 WS
- 2013 - $7,186 WS
- 2011 - $9,665 WS
- 2009 - $11,221 WS

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
- 1996 - $12,095 FL

Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2014 - $27,339 WS
- 2013 - $18,902 WS
- 2011 - $19,960 WS
- 2009 - $25,574 WS
- 2008 - $15,306 WS

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
- 2015 - $11,708 WS
- 2014 - $9,709 WS
- 2013 - $7,175 WS
- 2011 - $6,880 WS
- 1996 - $3,200 PSH
- 1993 - $12,000 EMP

Musigny Grand Cru
- 2014 - $64,547 WS
- 2013 - $67,395 WS
- 2012 - $74,799 WS
- 2011 - $55,946 WS
- 2009 - $80,732 WS

Richebourg Grand Cru
- 2016 - $6,447 WS
- 2015 - $31,010 WS
- 2014 - $15,009 WS
- 2013 - $13,474 WS
- 2011 - $11,014 WS

Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru
- 2015 - $15,571 WS
- 2014 - $14,932 WS
- 2013 - $11,241 WS
- 2011 - $12,265 WS
- 2009 - $12,501 WS
- 1991 - $10,500 FL

Vosne-Romanée Aux Beaux Monts Premier Cru
- 2017 - $7,756 WS
- 2015 - $9,576 WS
- 2014 - $8,405 WS
- 2013 - $6,993 WS
- 2012 - $6,621 WS
- 1990 - $9, 316 EMP

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25
Q

Bonneau du Martray

A

Summary: The property that is now the Bonneau du Martray estate was originally part of a larger parcel deeded to the Abbey of Saulieu by Charlemagne in 775CE, then sold to the Bonneau-Véry family when the Church’s lands were confiscated after the French Revolution. Today, Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière (whose mother inherited the domaine from her uncle, René Bonneau du Martray) runs the domaine.

Jean-Charles returned to plowing the vineyards and converted to organic farming. He began experiments with biodynamics in the mid-2000s, farming one third of the estate’s Chardonnay biodynamically so as to gauge wine quality against organic plots. The entire estate is now biodynamic (Ecocert certified in 2012; Demeter certification to follow). Jean-Charles also worked to improve the estate’s previously underperforming Corton Rouge by replacing some of the vines with Chardonnay and preserving only the oldest Pinot Noir vines for the cuvée.

Bonneau du Martray has the unique distinction of being the only domaine in Burgundy to sell only grand cru wine. Stan Kroenke, American billionaire noted for owning Screaming Eagle, purchased the majority stake in the estate in 2017.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The domaine’s holdings are divided into 15 white blocks and two red blocks, all of which are hand-harvested and vinified separately. The whites are whole-cluster-pressed, and after 24 hours of settling, fermentation takes place in one-third new barrels without inoculation. Bâtonnage is performed carefully, the frequency and duration of which are determined by constant tasting of the young wine. After 12 months in oak the wine is racked to stainless steel for several months’ aging prior to bottling. On occasion, the domaine also holds quantities of wine back for aging and later release.

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
- 2011 - $1900 EMP, $1,900 47
- 2006 - $2,100 EMP, $1,950 47
- 1998 - $2,100 EMP, $2,000 47
- 1987 - $2,100 EMP, $2,000 47

Corton Grand Cru (not imported into the U.S. currently)

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26
Q

Michel Lafarge

A

Summary: This small jewel of a family domaine is run by father and son Michel and Frédéric Lafarge. Michel took over in 1960, and his conservative nature made him skeptical of the then-trendy use of synthetic fertilizers and clonal selections for replanting. His preference was to farm his plots organically and make new plantings from a sélection massale of his old vines. Frédéric joined his father in the mid-1980s and began making biodynamic trials in the vineyards; they completed a full conversion to biodynamics in 2000. Frédéric and Michel continue to work together closely to maintain and improve the very high standards and quality of the domaine.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Frédéric Lafarge looks to harvest at full phenolic maturity but is very wary of harvesting overripe fruit as he seeks freshness and vitality in his wines. The grapes are completely de-stemmed prior to a cool start to fermentation with indigenous yeasts. The use of pumps is generally avoided, and pigeage occurs once or twice a day during the two weeks of maceration. The wines are barrel-aged in minimal new oak (none for the regional and village level wines, and up to 15% new for the premier crus) for about 18 months prior to bottling without filtration. Frédéric strives to emphasize the signature of his terroirs through his winemaking choices, and the differences in his wines from Beaune, Pommard and Volnay are dramatic.

Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs Premier Cru
- 2016 - $555 EMP
- 2014 - $465 EMP
- 2013 - $450 EMP
- 2012 - $505 EMP
- 2011 - $375 EMP
- 1999 - $1,735 EMP

Volnay Clos des Chênes Premier Cru
- 2020 - $450 47
- 2018 - $485 47
- 2017 - $575 47
- 2015 - $485 EMP, $535 47, $360 PSH
- 2014 - $450 EMP

Volnay Caillerets Premier Cru
- 2018 - $525 47
- 2017 - $525 47
- 2016 - $495 EMP, $550 47
- 2015 - $510 EMP
- 2010 - $290 PSH

Volnay Mitans Premier Cru
- 2020 - $425 47
- 2017 - $530 47
- 2016 - $455 47
- 2015 - $325 PSH

Volnay Premier Cru: blended from small holdings in various premiers crus including Chanlins

Volnay Vendanges Selectionées: a selection of various old-vine, village parcels
- 2015 - $215 EMP
- 2014 - $145 POH
- 2004 - $145 PSH

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27
Q

de Montille

A

Summary: In 1947, Hubert de Montille took over the family domaine at the young age of 17. Although the domaine had been considerably larger in the 19th century, by this point, the family owned just three hectares of vineyards, the rest of the parcels (the likes of Musigny, Bonnes-Mares, Chambolle Les Amoureuses and others) having been sold off through the years by family members who were in need of cash.

Working with such a small domaine then, Hubert continued practicing law, gradually using the profits from his successful, Dijon-based firm to buy up vineyard parcels bit by bit. In 1990, his son Etienne (who had worked as a lawyer in banking), began assisting Hubert. Etienne transitioned the family vineyards to organic farming in 1995, then converted to biodynamics in 2005. In 2003, he and his sister, Alix, also began a négociant company called Deux Montille, which is almost wholly dedicated to producing white wines from purchased grapes; Deux Montille is overseen by Alix, whose background with white wines included stints as winemaker for Alex Gambal and Ropiteau Frères.

In 2005, Etienne negotiated a complicated purchase of the Domaine Thomas-Moillard, splitting that house’s vineyards with Domaine Dujac and thereby increasing the de Montille holdings in both the Côte de Beaune as well as the Côte de Nuits. The expansion continued with the purchase of the Château de Puligny-Montrachet in 2012, which Etienne had managed since 2001 for the bank that owned the property. At the time of writing it is unclear how much of the new vineyards’ production will be bottled under the Château de Puligny-Montrachet label, so all facts and figures below are for Domaine de Montille alone.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Etienne has shifted in style from his father’s wines, which were known for their delicacy and ability to age, but which could be extremely hard and austere in youth (particularly in more challenging vintages). In the vineyards, Etienne lowered yields and picks later, while in the winery he has backed off on extraction, with only two or three pigeages per day during maceration. The red grapes are generally vinified as whole clusters (subject to vintage conditions, e.g. not in 2004). No new oak is used for the regional and village wines, while the premiers crus see up to 30%, and the grands crus and Malconsorts are aged in 50% new oak. The wines are aged in oak for 14-18 months and are generally bottled without fining or filtration.

Corton-Charlemagne: from the Chardonnay in Pougets
- 2010 - $700 E47

Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru
- 2012 - $765 E47
- 2010 - $786 E47
- 2005 - $850 E47

Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts Premier Cru
- 2020 - $1,350 E47
- 2018 - $1,202 EMP
- 2015 - $1,010 EMP
- 2014 - $750 E47
- 2012 - $1,150 E47
- 2009 - $1,150 EMP
- 2008 - $950 E47
- 2006 - $950 E47
- 2005 - $1,890 EMP

Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts “Cuvée Christiane” Premier Cru: a special bottling named after Hubert’s wife; from the 0.48-ha parcel surrounded by La Tâche on two sides.
- 2018 - $1,835 EMP
- 2011 - $1,150 EMP
- 2010 - $1,310 EMP, $1,750 E47
- 2009 - $1,850 EMP
- 2006 - $1,550 E47
- 2005 - $1,875 E47

Pommard Rugiens Premier Cru
- 2014 - $450 E47
- 2005 - $720 E47
- 2004 - $675 E47
- 2002 - $735 E47
- 2001 - $650 E47
- 1999 - $750 E47
- 1998 - $698 E47

Pommard Grands Epenots Premier Cru
- 2019 - $160 WS
- 2018 - $132 WS

Volnay Taillepieds Premier Cru
- 2020 - $415 EMP
- 2018 - $460 EMP
- 2015 - $375 EMP
- 2010 - $485 E47
- 2005 - $515 E47
- 2003 - $475 E47
- 1999 - $565 E47
- 1998 - $525 E47

Volnay Champans Premier Cru
- 2020 - $525 EMP
- 2019 - $475 EMP

Volnay Mitans Premier Cru
- 2015 - $325 E47
- 2009 - $350 E47
- 1999 - $525 E47
- 1998 - $500 E47
- 1996 - $550 E47

Puligny-Montrachet Le Cailleret Premier Cru
- 2020 - $450 E47
- 2017 - $525 E47
- 2011 - $575 E47

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28
Q

Jacques Carillon

A

Summary: Carillon is a venerable name in Puligny-Montrachet, with documents dating back to 1520 that reference Carillons farming vines in the village. In 2010, the domaine known as Louis Carillon was divided between Louis’s two sons, Jacques and François, and both brothers now produce excellent wines under their own labels. The care in Jacques Carillon’s vineyards is evident; plowing is preferred to the use of herbicides, vines are re-planted by selection massale, and systemic fungicides are rarely used. This is an excellent name for reserved and elegant Puligny-Montrachets.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Jacques’s wines are known for their focus and reserve. After pressing, the juice is settled and transferred to barrel for fermentation and aging in a maximum of 10-25% new oak for 12 months. The wines are then racked and blended in stainless steel, where they rest on their fine lees for six months prior to bottling.

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2021 - $742 WS
- 2019 - $950 WS
- 2018 - $658 WS
- 2017 - $617 WS
- 2016 - $723 WS

Puligny-Montrachet Les Champs Canet Premier Cru
- 2021 - $172 WS
- 2020 - $450 PSH
- 2019 - $285 E47

Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières Premier Cru
- 2021 - $172 WS
- 2020 - $191 WS
- 2019 - $186 WS
- 2018 - $197 WS
- 2017 - $190 Ws

Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts Premier Cru
- 2020 - $450 E47

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles Premier Cru
- 2015 - $300 PSH

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29
Q

Comte Armand

A

Summary: The Clos des Epeneaux has been in the Armand family since 1826, when Comte Armand married a daughter of the Marey-Monge family, whose extensive 19th-century domaine included the Clos. Domaine Comte Armand made wine exclusively from the Clos des Epeneaux until a 1994 purchase of vineyards in Auxey-Duresses and Volnay.

The domaine was revitalized in 1985 when the Comte Armand placed a young Canadian, Pascal Marchand, in charge; he converted to organic farming and modernized the cellars. In 1999, 23-year-old Benjamin Leroux took over from Marchand; he also completed the estate’s transition to biodynamic farming that had begun in 1996.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: The red grapes are completely de-stemmed and cooled before beginning fermentation with indigenous yeasts. The amount of pigeage and remontage varies, depending on vintage conditions. The wine spends an extended period on the skins—usually at least 28 days—prior to pressing, and the wines are aged in up to 80% new oak for the Clos des Epeneaux. Barrel-aging lasts up to 22 months for the Clos des Epeneaux and 15-18 months for the other wines.

Pommard Clos des Epeneaux Premier Cru (5.25 ha monopole of Pinot Noir, planted 1930-1986; the top of the vineyard is thin, rocky marl over hard limestone while the lower section has deeper soil with more iron oxide)
- 2019 - $480 E47
- 2017 - $535 EMP
- 2015 - $480 PSH
- 2014 - $400 PSH
- 2013 - $400 PSH
- 1996 - $525 EMP

Pommard Premier Cru: produced from younger vines in the Clos des Epeneaux
Pommard AOC: produced from young vines in the Clos des Epeneaux

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30
Q

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

A

Summary: The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) is widely considered the greatest red wine domaine in Burgundy. Its modern history can be traced to the 1869 purchase of Romanée-Conti by Jacques-Marie Duvault-Blochet, a Santenay-based négociant. However, the domaine’s most famous vineyard’s history goes back much further and is laid-out well in Richard Olney’s book titled Romanée-Conti. The vineyard’s most famous proprietor was Louis-François de Bourbon, Prince de Conti, who purchased what was then-known as La Romanée in 1760. The vineyard’s production was reserved for the prince’s table for the next 30+ years until the French Revolution and the resulting confiscation of clergy and nobility lands. The prince’s surname was appended to the vineyard’s name when it was auctioned off as a biens nationaux to emphasize its famous history; the greatest vineyard in Burgundy has been known as Romanée-Conti ever since. In 1942, Duvault-Blochet’s heirs, Edmond Gaudin de Villaine and Jacques Chambon, transformed the domaine into a société civile by splitting the shares equally between their families to prevent the domaine’s fracture when Jacques Chambon wanted to sell his portion. Henri Leroy, a négociant and personal friend of de Villaine, purchased Chambon’s half of the domaine and his heirs still own it. Today, Edmond de Villaine’s son, Aubert de Villaine, and Henri Leroy’s grandson, Henri-Frédéric Roch, oversee the domaine. In 1963, the domaine first purchased vines in Montrachet, and signed a lease for Prince Florent de Merode’s Corton vines in 2008. All farming has been organic since 1986 and biodynamic since 2007. The average vine age is 40-50 years. Re-planting is done by selection massale taken from Romanée-Conti’s pre-phylloxera vines prior to their removal in 1945.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Each of the domaine’s wines are long-lived. A team of 90 pickers sorts the grapes in the vineyard before delivery to the winery where they are sorted once more prior to vinification. The domaine is usually one of the last to harvest in Montrachet, its Chardonnay is whole-cluster pressed and the juice settles overnight. After racking, the wine ferments in 100% new Tronçais barrels. Currently, the domaine is experimenting with tapping barrels with reeds to create vibration and activate the lees instead of direct bâtonnage. Montrachet is usually fined and bottled in November or December following harvest. For red wines, grapes ferment as whole clusters if the fruit is clean enough and they are partially de-stemmed if the weather has been difficult. The grapes are cooled prior to fermentation, which occurs in open-top wood fermenters. Pigeage takes place twice a day after fermentation begins, and the wine averages 17-21 days on the skins. After pressing the wines age in 98% new oak for 18-22 months before it is bottled without fining or filtering. Wines are blended and bottled six barrels at a time using a bottling tank, to eliminate bottle variation that would occur were each barrel bottled individually.

Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (monopole)
- 2017 - $16,500 EMP
- 2014 - $15,000 EMP
- 2013 - $13,500 EMP

La Tâche Grand Cru (monopole)
- 2019 - $7,500 EMP
- 2018 - $7,600 EMP
- 2017 - $7,500 EMP
- 2016 - $7,900 EMP
- 1959 - $36,884 E47

Richebourg Grand Cru
- 2019 - $6,200 EMP
- 2018 - $5,850 EMP
- 2017 - $6,100 EMP
- 2016 - $6,400 EMP
- 2015 - $6,400 EMP

Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru
- 2019 - $5,900 EMP
- 2018 - $5,800 EMP
- 2017 - $5,100 EMP
- 2016 - $5,100 EMP
- 2015 - $5,800 EMP
- 2014 - $5,300 EMP
- 2011 - $4,200 EMP
- 1999 - $9,500 EMP

Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru
- 2019 - $4,100 EMP
- 2017 - $4,300 EMP
- 2002 - $5,400 EMP
- 1989 - $6,250 EMP
- 1985 - $8,500 EMP

Echézeaux Grand Cru
- 2019 - $3,100 EMP
- 2017 - $3,330 EMP
- 1990 - $7,800 EMP

Corton Grand Cru: blended from the three Corton lieux-dits. Inaugural vintage 2009.
- 2018 - $2,035 EMP
- 2017 - $2,050 EMP

Le Montrachet Grand Cru: Inaugural vintage 1965.
- 2019 - $12,500 EMP
- 2018 - $12,000 EMP
- 2015 - $11,500 EMP
- 2014 - $10,500 EMP

Vosne-Romanée “Cuvée Duvault-Blochet” Premier Cru: produced in certain vintages from the domaine’s small holdings in Gaudichots, Petits Monts, and Au-Dessus de Malconsorts as well as second crop from the grand crus. Inaugural vintage 1999.
- 2019 - $2,500 E47

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31
Q

Armand Rousseau

A

Summary: Considering the average Burgundy domaine owns just tiny parcels of famous vineyards, it’s easy to see why Domaine Armand Rousseau is held in such universally high regard. This is a 13-hectare domaine with a whopping eight of those hectares in top Gevrey and Morey grand crus (see below for full details). Armand Rousseau started the domaine in 1909; he increased the vineyard holdings in the 1920s and 1930s and, upon the advice of Raymond Baudoin (founder of the Revue des Vins de France), Armand began domaine-bottling in the 1930s. Armand’s son Charles is widely credited with establishing the domaine’s worldwide acclaim. Charles died in 2016 and today his son Eric runs the domaine.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Eric Rousseau claims there are no real “secrets” to the quality of his wines: just old vines in top vineyard sites, pruned short with low yields, and careful farming. At harvest, the grapes are sorted in the vineyard and 90% de-stemmed—but not crushed. Fermentations start (without adding yeast) after four or five days of cold soak, and the wines are pumped over at the start of fermentation for oxygenation, then punched down in the latter stages. The wines spend 18-20 days on the skins and are settled for 24 hours after pressing. The Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze are aged in 100% new oak, the Clos Saint-Jacques is aged in 80% new oak, and the remaining grands and premiers crus are aged in once-used (or older) barrels. The wines spend 18 months in oak with one racking and are filtered prior to bottling.

Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2020 - $6,066 WS
- 2019 - $5,394 WS
- 2018 - $3,215 POH. $4,161 WS
- 2017 - $2,200 PSH, $2,355 POH, $4,078 WS
- 2016 - $4,677 WS

Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
- 2020 - $5,256 WS
- 2019 - $5,060 WS
- 2018 - $4,007 WS
- 2017 - $3,756 WS
- 2014 - $4,595 EMP

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2018 - $1,080 POH
- 2017 - $1,425 EMP
- 2012 - $930 PSH

Ruchottes-Chambertin “Clos des Ruchottes” Grand Cru
- 2014 - $950 PSH
- 2013 - $955 POH

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2020 - $1,413 WS
- 2019 - $1,253 WS
- 2018 - $1,171 WS
- 2017 - $1,004 WS
- 2016 - $984 WS

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
- 2020 - $1,195 WS
- 2019 - $1,114 WS
- 2018 - $1,031 WS
- 2017 - $1,104 WS
- 2016 - $1,123 WS

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques Premier Cru
- 2020 - $2,207 WS
- 2019 - $2,419 WS
- 2018 - $1,786 WS
- 2017 - $1,540 POH
- 2016 - $1,275 PSH

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers Premier Cru
- 2020 - $935 WS
- 2019 - $1,121 WS
- 2018 - $1,032 WS
- 2017 - $1,071 WS
- 2017 - $998 WS

Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques Premier Cru
- 2020 - $1,028 WS
- 2019 - $985 WS
- 2018 - $827 WS
- 2017 - $939 WS
- 2016 - $1,191 WS

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32
Q

Dujac

A

Summary: Domaine Dujac is a relatively recent creation (at least in Burgundian terms): Jacques Seysses began his own estate with the purchase of the 4.5-hectare Domaine Graillet in 1967 and began producing wine in 1969. He steadily added to his vineyard holdings, increasing the size of the domaine to 11.5 hectares by the time his children, Alec and Jeremy—along with Jeremy’s wife, Diana Snowden—joined the domaine. Viticulture has been organic and biodynamic for some time, clones are no longer used for any re-plantings, and the vines are pruned short with extra buds removed to assure a balanced crop and healthy fruit. In 2005, the domaine added four hectares of vines to their holdings by joining Etienne de Montille in the purchase of Domaine Thomas Moillard.

Dujac Fils et Père is a négociant offshoot of Domaine Dujac that also produces excellent wines.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The wines of Domaine Dujac have evolved since Jacques Seysses stepped back from the day-to-day management of the domaine. Jacques was well-known for favoring 100% whole clusters and 100% new oak for his wines, but now the red grapes are partially de-stemmed if vintage conditions require—the Gevrey-Chambertin grapes are always partially de-stemmed as the domaine now feels (like Eric Rousseau) that the fruit of Gevrey-Chambertin does not suit whole-cluster vinification as much. The village-level wines today are aged in 20-25% new oak, while the premier crus see 50-75% new oak, and the grand crus see 70-100% new oak. The wines age 12-16 months in barrel and are bottled unfiltered and usually without fining.

Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru
- 2020 - $1,425 E47
- 2019 - $1,250 E47
- 2018 - $1,285 E47
- 2017 - $1,240 EMP, $1,240 E47
- 2016 - $1,605 EMP, $1,750 E47
- 2015 - $1,250 E47
- 2014 - $1,095 EMP
- 2013 - $975 EMP
- 2011 - $780 EMP

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
- 2020 - $1,750 EMP, $1,550 E47
- 2019 - $1,530 EMP, $15,30 E47
- 2018 - $1,250 E47
- 2017 - $1,255 EMP, $1,150 E47
- 2016 - $1,250 EMP, $1,250 E47
- 2015 - $1,200 EMP, $1,200 E47
- 2014 - $1,095 EMP
- 2013 - $935 EMP
- 2006 - $1,925 EMP
- 2005 - $3,500 EMP

Echézeaux Grand Cru
- 2020 - $1,200 E47

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
- 2020 - $1,585 E47
- 2019 - $1,550 E47
- 2017 - $1,575 EMP, $1,500 E47
- 2016 - $1,550 E47

Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2019 - $5,755 E47
- 2018 - $4,900 E47
- 2017 - $4,175 E47
- 2016 - $5,045 E47
- 2015 - $2,997 E47

Charmes - Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2019 - $900 E47
- 2016 - $850 E47
- 2010 - $985 E47

Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru
- 2006 - $3,680 E47

Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes Premier Cru
- 2020 - $555 EMP, $750 E47
- 2019 - $650 E47
- 2018 - $550 EMP, $615 E47
- 2017 - $750 EMP, $545 E47
- 2016 - $575 E47

Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts Premier Cru
- 2020 - $1,600 EMP
- 2019 - $1,465 EMP
- 2017 - $1,125 EMP
- 2015 - $795 EMP
- 2013 - $785 EMP

Morey-Saint-Denis Monts Luisants Premier Cru (Chardonnay)
- 2020 - $420 EMP
- 2017 - $390 EMP

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33
Q

G. Roumier

A

Summary: Since Christophe Roumier joined the family domaine in 1982, this domaine has become one of the absolute elite producers in Burgundy. It was founded in 1924 with the marriage of Georges Roumier to Geneviève Quanquin of Chambolle-Musigny, whose dowry included 12 hectares of premiers and grands crus. Domaine bottling began in 1945. Over time the family added the Clos de la Bussière monopole, a small parcel of Corton-Charlemagne and an even smaller slice of Musigny Grand Cru. Today, the domaine boasts many old vines; in order to maintain a high average vine age Christophe prefers to replace individual missing vines rather than replant entire vineyard blocks. All vineyards are plowed, no herbicides are used, and insecticides and synthetic fertilizers are also avoided. Low yields are achieved through severe pruning and de-budding in spring. Like Mugnier, Christophe Roumier prefers to train his mature vines as single Guyot with a long cane, removing every other shoot early in the growing season to promote good spacing and ventilation of the vine canopy. This is a domaine of impeccable quality, and the worldwide demand for these wines means they are now very difficult to find.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The Roumier wines are clean and expressive when young but capable of great development over time. Grapes are sorted in the vineyard and at the winery, then partially de-stemmed depending on vine age and fruit condition. Fermentation begins slowly with native yeast, and pigeage begins once fermentation commences; grapes stay on the skins for about three weeks. After pressing, the press wine is kept separate from the free-run juice; it is later added back if the blend is harmonious. New oak is kept in check: 20% new for village-level wines, 25-35% for premier crus and 35-45% for grand crus. The wines spend 15-18 months in oak prior to being bottled without fining or filtration.

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
- 2020 - $3,300 EMP
- 2019 - $2,985 EMP
- 2017 - $2,210 EMP
- 2016 - $1,675 EMP
- 2015 - $1,700 EMP
- 2014 - $1,325 EMP
- 2013 - $1,590 EMP

Musigny Grand Cru
- 2020 - $15,500 EMP
- 2019 - $12,475 EMP

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2020 - $2490 EMP
- 2019 - $2,100 EMP, $900 E47
- 2016 - $850 E47
- 2010 - $985 E47

Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2020 - $2,100 EMP
- 2019 - $1,900 EMP
- 2016 - $1,085 EMP

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
- 2020 - $1,100 EMP
- 2019 - $990 EMP
- 2017 - $875 EMP

Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses Premier Cru
- 2020 - $3,900 EMP

Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras Premier Cru
- 2020 - $910 EMP
- 2019 - $855 EMP

Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière Premier Cru (monopole)
- 2020 - $625 EMP
- 2019 - $610 EMP
- 2017 - $515 EMP
- 2016 - $520 EMP
- 2015 - $510 EMP
- 2014 - $495 EMP
- 2013 - $525 EMP
- 2008 - $625 EMP
- 1999 - $1,950 EMP

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34
Q

Méo-Camuzet

A

Summary: Etienne Camuzet started buying vineyards in the early 20th century while serving in the French parliament as representative for the Côte d’Or. He obtained large holdings in Clos de Vougeot and was the last private owner of the Château before donating it to the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. His daughter Maria Noirot died without heirs and deeded the estate to a distant relative and friend, Jean Méo, who put the estate in the hands of a number of métayers (including the now-famous Henri Jayer). Jean Méo’s son, Jean-Nicolas, took over management of the domaine in 1988, shortly after domaine bottling began in 1985, when Henri Jayer retired, though Jayer stayed on as a consultant. Jean-Nicolas considers the vineyards to be the foundation of quality for his wines and restricts yields by removing every other shoot early in the growing season to promote ventilation. No weed killers are used and vineyards are green-harvested if necessary. A négociant business was started under the name of Méo-Camuzet Frère et Soeurs In 1999.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Méo-Camuzet wines are made following Henri Jayer’s methods, paying careful attention to grape health, completely de-stemming the fruit, and generous new oak usage. The grapes are hand-sorted prior to de-stemming and allowed to begin fermentation slowly without adding cultured yeast. The wines ferment on the skins for up to 18 days, with more frequent pigeage as fermentation ends. The press wine and the free-run wine are blended before aging in oak, with 50% new oak for the communal wines, 60-70% for premier crus, and 100% for grand crus. Wines are aged 15-18 months prior to bottling with no fining or filtering.

Richebourg Grand Cru
- 2020 - $3,500 E47
- 2019 - $3,500 E47

Echézeaux Grand Cru
- 2020 - $2,500 E47 (Les Rouges du Bas)
- 2019 - $1,015 E47 (Les Rouges du Bas)

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
- 2020 - $1,200 EMP, $985 E47, $830 PSH
- 2015 - $595 PSH
- 2013 - $620 PSH
- 2012 - $620 PSH
- 2011 - $675 PSH
- 2010 - $680 PSH
- 2006 - $470 PSH

Corton Clos Rognet Grand Cru
- 2015 - $725 PSH
- 2013 - $460 PSH
- 2004 - $495 PSH

Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux Premier Cru
- 2020 - $3,200 E47
- 2017 - $2,903 E47
- 2015 - $2,750 E47
- 2013 - $2,220 E47
- 2011 - $2,500 E47

Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées Premier Cru
- 2017 - $1,550 EMP

Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes Premier Cru
- 2020 - $630 EMP
- 2005 - $1,890 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Boudots Premier Cru
- 2020 - $620 EMP
- 2017 - $540 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Murgers Premier Cru
- 2020 - $730 EMP
- 2017 - $525 EMP

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35
Q

Jean-Marie Fourrier

A

Summary: Jean-Marie Fourrier took over the family domaine from his father Jean-Claude in 1995 after working stages with Henri Jayer and Domaine Drouhin in Oregon. One of the key qualities of Fourrier wines is that they come from very old vines: any wine from vines less than 30 years old is sold to négociants—making all domaine-bottled wines essentially vieille vigne. Vines are replanted individually as they die using sélection massale. While the old vines of the domaine tend to already be quite low-yielding, they are also pruned severely and de-budded in the spring; however, no green harvest is done. Jean-Marie Fourrier has built the family domaine into one of the region’s most respected in foreign markets—with tremendous demand in the United States and extremely high prices on the secondary market—yet as the majority of the domaine’s wines are exported, he is little-known in France.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: At harvest, grapes are sorted in the vineyard and in the winery. Grapes are 100% de-stemmed but not crushed, and all parcels are fermented separately. The cool must starts fermentation slowly with native yeasts, and pigeage is conducted two to four times per day (there are no pump-overs). After 16-19 days on the skins, the wines are pressed to barrel (up to 20% new oak). Jean-Marie prefers to rack his wines only immediately prior to bottling, and he sometimes bottles from cask in order to preserve carbon dioxide in the wine and reduce the need for sulfur dioxide additions. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration and can frequently show some gas when young.

Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru VV
- 2019 - $2,100 E47
- 2017 - $1,370 EMP
- 2016 - $1,190 EMP, $2,000 E47
- 2014 - $950 EMP
- 2011 - $930 EMP
- 1991 - $1,500 E47

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques Premier Cru
- 2020 - $1,500 E47
- 2019 - $1,200 E47
- 2017 - $1,090 EMP
- 2005 - $2,000 E47

Gevrey-Chambertin La Combe aux Moines Premier Cru
- 2017 - $615 EMP
- 2015 - $455 EMP

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux Premier Cru
- 2017 - $610 EMP
- 2016 - $575 EMP

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots Premier Cru
- 2020 - $344 WS
- 2019 - $354 WS
- 2018 - $256 WS

Gevrey-Chambertin Cherbaudes Premier Cru
- 2017 - $550 EMP
- 2016 - $495 EMP, $485 E47
- 2009 - $1,280 EMP
- 2008 - $1,150 EMP

Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers Premier Cru
- 2021 - $255 WS
- 2020 - $331 WS
- 2019 - $315 WS

Vougeot Les Petits Vougeots Premier Cru
- 2017 - $610 EMP
- 2016. -$545 EMP

Gevrey-Chambertin “Vieilles Vignes”: from the Champerrier climat

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36
Q

Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier

A

Summary: Frédéric (Frédy) Mugnier is currently in charge of this outstanding domaine founded by his great-great-grandfather Frédéric Mugnier in 1863. Along with the vineyard holdings, the family business initially included a négociant business focused on liqueurs, but over time that was sold and the vineyards were leased out in fermage arrangements. In 1977 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier decided to take back the family’s Chambolle-Musigny vineyards and bottle the wines himself, and in 1985 Frédy joined his father after a career as a petroleum engineer. In 2004 the fermage arrangement with Faiveley for the Clos de la Maréchale came to an end, resulting in the domaine more than tripling in size—from four to 14 hectares—thanks to the addition of this largest monopole in the Côte d’Or.

Today, the vineyards are plowed, and no chemical herbicides, fertilizers or insecticides are used—though Frédy prefers to use systemic fungicides rather than copper to fight mildew, feeling that copper harms the vines and soils more than fungicides. The older vines are trained to the guyot system with a slightly longer fruiting cane than is normal, as Frédy removes every other shoot early in the growing season so as to space the shoots and clusters well. A green harvest is performed if necessary to keep the crop load small. Frédy Mugnier is a very meticulous and precise winegrower, and the quality of his wines reflect his great attention to detail.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: The Mugnier wines are usually reserved in youth but capable of long aging, particularly the Musigny. Elegant and powerful, they never show over-ripeness or excessive oak. Grapes are 100% de-stemmed and vinified with native yeasts. The wines ferment on the skins for up to three weeks, but the frequency of pigeage has been reduced in recent years. The press wine is kept separate until bottling so as to more finely tune the final blend. Aging occurs in a maximum of 20% new oak (less than previously used), and the wines age for 18 months prior to bottling without fining or filtration.

Musigny Grand Cru: until the 1989 vintage the 1947 vines were bottled separately as a “Vieilles Vignes” bottling; currently there is just a single Musigny bottling

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
- 2016 - $1,990 EMP

Musigny Grand Cru
- 1983 - $2,445 EMP

Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses Premier Cru
- 2020 - $2,995 PSH

Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées Premier Cru
- 2018 - $1,200 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale Premier Cru (white)
- 2016 - $350 EMP
- 2015 - $330 EMP
- 2013 - $290 EMP
- 2012 - $310 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale Premier Cru (red)
- 2017 - $430 EMP
- 2016 - $355 EMP
- 2015 - $325 EMP
- 2014 - $295 EMP
- 2013 - $290 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Fourches red: produced from young vines in the Clos de la Maréchale

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37
Q

Ghislaine Barthod

A

Summary: Ghislaine Barthod joined her father Gaston at the family domaine in 1986, and over the next 10 years she gradually took the reigns and steadily improved the quality and renown of her family’s wines. The domaine’s vineyards have a high average vine age, and vines are replanted by selection massale. The vineyards are plowed and trained in single Guyot, and a green harvest limits yields. Even with no grand cru holdings, this domaine is a benchmark in Chambolle-Musigny, and the wines are textbook examples of the commune: perfumed and graceful, with each premier cru bottling offering a lesson in the terroir of the village. The difficulty in obtaining the wines is a testament to the quality of Ghislaine’s work in the past few decades.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Ghislaine harvests late for full ripeness, but she is wary of over-ripeness. The grapes are usually de-stemmed completely, and only native yeasts are used. The wines are vinified in stainless steel with fermentations starting cool and slow. After pressing, the wines are aged in up to 20-25% new oak for 20 months prior to bottling without fining or filtration.

Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes Premier Cru
- 2019 - $500 E47
- 2014 - $405 E47

Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras Premier Cru
- 2019 - $500 E47

Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées Premier Cru
- 2019 - $485 E47

Chambolle-Musigny Les Véroilles Premier Cru
- 2014 - $438 E47
- 2013 - $415 E47
- 2010 - $595 EMP

Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns Premier Cru
- 2015 - $425 E47
- 2013 - $380 E47

Chambolle-Musigny Aux Combottes Premier Cru: Bottled separately in exceptional vintages, otherwise blended into village wine.
- 2020 - $314 WS
- 2019 - $274 WS
- 2018 - $306 WS
- 2017 - $290 WS
- 2015 - $351 WS

Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers Premier Cru: Inaugural vintage 2010.
- 2015 - $415 E47

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38
Q

Comte Liger-Belair

A

Summary: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair founded the modern version of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair in 2000 but its origins go back much further. The Napoleonic general Comte Louis Liger-Belair purchased the Château de Vosne-Romanée in 1815 and started the domaine. He and his son Louis-Charles expanded vineyard holdings and Louis-Charles married into the Marey-Monge family, bringing extensive holdings to Liger-Belair. During this time the domaine owned La Grande Rue, La Romanée, La Tâche (the parcel that pre-dates the annexation of the Gaudichots section), large pieces of most of the top premier crus in Vosne-Romanée, Clos de Vougeot, Chambertin, and others totaling 60 hectares. In 1931, Louis-Charles’ grandson passed away and his ten children could not agree how to divide the family heritage so the domaine was put up for auction. Two of the heirs managed to purchase the holdings in La Romanée, Reignots, and Les Chaumes at the auction and the vines were leased to sharecroppers. From a young age Louis-Michel was determined to run the family domaine, and in 2000 and 2002 he brought vineyards leased through contract back to the domaine. The arrangement with Bouchard to split the wine produced in La Romanée continued through the 2005 vintage.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: The Liger-Belair wines are modern and polished. The grapes are sorted in the vineyard and then again in the winery at the sorting table. The grapes are completely de-stemmed, cold-soaked for about seven days, and fermented without added yeast. The wines stay on skins for about ten days, and the frequency of pigeage and remontage varies depending on the taste of each lot. After free-run and press wines are blended, the wine settles in tank for about a week before being racked to 100% new oak. The wines are only racked once—into the bottling tank—after 13-15 months in oak. There is no fining or filtration.

La Romanée Grand Cru (monopole)
- 2018 - $13,500 EMP, $10,000 PSH
- 2017 - $7,500 EMP, $8,500 PSH
- 2016 - $8,000 EMP
- 2015 - $7,000 EMP
- 2014 - $6,500 EMP
- 2013 - $6,275 EMP
- 2010 - $15,000 E47

Echézeaux Grand Cru
- 2018 - $2,995 EMP, $2,000 PSH

Vosne-Romanée Suchots Premier Cru
- 2018 - $4,028 WS
- 2017 - $2,295 WS
- 2016 - $2,547 WS
- 2015 - $3,058 WS
- 2014 - $3,900 WS

Vosne-Romanée Brûlées Premier Cru
- 2016 - $5,106 WS
- 2012 - $5,723 WS
- 2009 - $5,678 WS
- 2008 - $5,614 WS

Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots Premier Cru
- 2019 - $3,230 EMP
- 2008 - $2,465 EMP
- 2005 - $3,200 E47

Vosne-Romanée Petits-Monts Premier Cru
- 2019 - $5,437 WS
- 2018 - $1,900 EMP
- 2017 - $4,428 WS
- 2016 - $4,288 WS
- 2014 - $5,201 WS

Vosne-Romanée Chaumes Premier Cru
- 2019 - $2,471 WS
- 2018 - $3,052 WS
- 2017 - $3,176 WS
- 2016 - $2,410 WS
- 2015 - $2,140 WS

Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château (monopole)
- 2018 - $1,045 EMP

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39
Q

Comte Georges de Vogüé

A

Summary: Comte Georges de Vogüé is one of the most important domaines in Chambolle-Musigny, owning nearly 65% of the Musigny Grand Cru. While the Roumier family acted as régisseur for the domaine for three generations, today it is run by winemaker Francois Millet, chef de culture Eric Bourgogne and commercial director Jean-Luc Pépin. Present-day owners Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette are Comte Georges de Vogüé’s granddaughters, and they put the winery team together in 1986 with the intention of returning the domaine to the list of Burgundy’s elite (following some lackluster vintages in the 1970s and 1980s). Vineyards are plowed, weed-killers are not used, and chemical fertilizers are avoided as well. Yields are kept low through severe pruning, early bud removal in the spring, and green-harvesting if necessary. The domaine is usually one of the first to begin picking in Chambolle due to their low yields and desire to avoid even a trace of over-ripeness.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Vogüé wines are never flashy or extroverted in youth, instead requiring time to open and show their charms—especially the Musigny. After a careful sorting in the vineyard, the red grapes are completely de-stemmed prior to fermentation in wooden vats. Fermentation starts without inoculation, and pigeage is performed at varying frequency depending on the status of each tank—the goal is to avoid extracting too much tannin. The domaine uses a limited amount of new oak: up to 15% new for the village-level wine, 20-30% for premiers crus and 35-40% for the grands crus. After 18 months in oak, the reds are fined and filtered prior to bottling. The white wine is entirely barrel-fermented in 20% new barrels. In, 2015, the age of the Chardonnay vines in Musigny reached a point where the domaine bestowed the grand cru appellation on the wine for the first time since 1993.

Musigny “Vieilles Vignes” Grand Cru
- 2015 - $5,00 EMP, $1,700 PSH
- 2013 - $1,300 EMP, $1,300 PSH
- 2011 - $1,650 PSH
- 2001 - $2,500 EMP
- 1964 - $12,362 EMP

Musigny Blanc Grand Cru
- 1992 - $4,590 EMP
- 1991 - $2,650 EMP
- 1988 0 $4,55 EMP

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
- 2015 - $1,400 PSH
- 1999 - $2,100 PSH
- 1997 - $1,100 PSH

Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses Premier Cru
- 2021 - $1,353 WS
- 2020 - $1,503 WS
- 2019 - $1,339 WS

Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru: from the young Pinot Noir vines in Musigny
- 2000 -$395 PSH
- 1998 - $750 PSH

Chambolle-Musigny: from the small holdings in Les Fuées and Les Baudes

Bourgogne Blanc: from the Chardonnay in Musigny (1994-2014)
- 2010 - $1,518 EMP

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40
Q

Domaine Ponsot

A

Summary: Domaine Ponsot was founded in 1872 by William Ponsot with a small holding in Clos de la Roche and Clos des Monts Luisants. The domaine has grown over the years through acquisitions, marriage and joint ventures. Laurent Ponsot—the current generation in charge—has continued to expand the holdings, adding Corton-Charlemagne, Corton, and Corton-Bressandes in 2009, and a small piece of Montrachet in 2010. The domaine now boasts an enviable twelve grands crus, and production that is inverse of Burgundy as a whole, with 80% of the domaine’s production comprised of grand cru wines and only 8% regional and village wine. Their holdings include some exceptionally old vineyards, and Hippolyte Ponsot (Laurent’s grandfather) was concerned about preserving the genetic heritage of his vineyards from an early date. He painstakingly marked top-performing old vines and created a 2,000-vine “nursery” in Clos de la Roche of the best selections. It was from this block of vines that the so-called “Dijon clones” of Pinot Noir were selected by Jean-Marie Ponsot and researchers at the University of Dijon. Domaine Ponsot also produces a rarity: a premier cru white that is 100% Aligoté from very old vines planted in 1911 in Monts Luisants. In 2005 Laurent Ponsot removed the Pinot Gouges and Chardonnay that his father and grandfather had planted, and re-planted Aligoté, bottling only the old vines from 2005 forward. This is an exceptional, but idiosyncratic, domaine.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Domaine Ponsot generally harvests very low-yielding and very ripe fruit from their old vineyards. They use no new oak, purchasing used barrels from white wine producers, and use sulfur very sparingly, if at all. The grapes are harvested into small baskets to keep the fruit intact, and red grapes are generally de-stemmed (although this varies by vintage). The wines ferment in wooden tanks and are allowed to reach a fairly high temperature, from 35-38° Celsius. There is no set regimen for the amount of pigeage, or remontage, or even the amount of time on skins—the qualities of the harvest dictate these decisions. The wines are pressed with a wooden basket press, and the four-level winery allows gravity-flow wine movements. Wines are bottled with no fining or filtering after 18-24 months in barrel and generally receive only a minimal amount of sulfur at bottling.

Montrachet Grand Cru
- 2014 - $3,134 WS
- 2013 - $2,190 WS
- 2012 - $1,917 WS
- 2011 - $2,234 WS
- 2010 - $2,597 WS

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
- 2016 - $1,165 EMP
- 2012 - $1,625 EMP

Clos de la Roche “Cuvée Vieilles Vignes” Grand Cru
- 2016 - $2,150 EMP
- 2015 - $2,100 EMP, $1,398 E47
- 2013 - $2,330 EMP
- 2011 - $1,725 EMP
- 2007 - $1,498 E47
- 2005 - $2,800 E47

Clos Saint-Denis “Cuvée Très Vieilles Vignes” Grand Cru
- 2015 - $695 WS
- 2014 - $1,080 WS
- 2013 - $735 WS
- 2012 - $801 WS
- 2011 - $657 WS

Chambertin Grand Cru
- 1990 - $4,200 E47

Charmes-Chambertin “Cuvée des Merles” Grand Cru
- 2019 - $412 WS
- 2018 - $324 WS
- 2017 - $367 WS
- 2016 - $507 WS
- 2015 - $376 WS

Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2011 - $1,270 EMP

Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
- 2016 - $1,750 EMP
- 2015 - $1,500 EMP
- 2013 - $650 EMP

Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisants Premier Cru Blanc
- 2016 - $550 EMP
- 2013 - $520 EMP

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41
Q

Robert Chevillon

A

Summary: The Chevillon domaine was founded in the late 19th century by Symphorien Chevillon. The domaine is now in the hands of the fourth generation of Chevillons, Denis and Bertrand, who took over from their father Robert when he retired in 2003. Domaine Chevillon is a reference point for Nuits-Saint-Georges due to the consistently high quality of the domaine’s wines, its numerous premier cru vineyards across the appellation, and some very old vines in the domaine’s three best vineyards—Cailles, Vaucrains, and Les Saint-Georges. The high average vine age is maintained by replacing individual vines by repiquage, rather than replanting entire blocks. All of the vineyards are plowed; yields are controlled by removing extra buds in the spring and by green harvesting in the summer. The domaine produces a Nuits-Saint-Georges blanc from Henri Gouges’ Pinot Blanc selection. The vines are interplanted in Pinot Noir vineyards and in the past Robert Chevillon co-fermented the white and red grapes.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Chevillon wines are benchmark examples of Nuits-Saint-Georges and show none of the reputed rusticity of the village’s wines. The grapes are completely de-stemmed prior to vinification in stainless steel vats. There is a one-week cold maceration prior to fermentation with native yeasts, and both pigeage and remontage are practiced. The wine spends up to four weeks on skins prior to pressing to 20% new oak for village wines, and up to 30% new oak for the premier crus. The wines are filtered but not fined prior to bottling after 18 months in oak.

Nuits-Saint-Georges Vaucrains Premier Cru
- 2016 - $510 EMP
- 2015 - $435 EMP
- 2014 - $395 EMP
- 2013 - $415 EMP
- 2011 - $340 EMP
- 2001 - $435 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint Georges Premier Cru
- 2014 - $405 EMP
- 2012 - $415 EMP
- 2008 - $490 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles Premier Cru
- 2016 - $510 EMP
- 2015 - $550 EMP
- 2009 - $565 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Roncières Premier Cru
- 2020 - $420 EMP
- 2019 - $390 EMP
- 2014 - $295 EMP
- 2013 - $335 EMP
- 2012 - $335 EMP
- 2011 - $275 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Pruliers Premier Cru
- 2015 - $320 EMP
- 2014 - $300 EMP
- 2011 - $300 EMP
- 2008 - $375 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Perrières Premier Cru
- 2015 - $320 EMP
- 2014 - $285 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Chaignots Premier Cru
- 2020 - $420 EMP
- 2019 - $390 EMP
- 2018 - $475 EMP
- 2014 - $285 EMP
- 2013 - $335 EMP
- 2009 - $535 EMP

Nuits-Saint-Georges Bousselots Premier Cru
- 2020 - $415 EMP
- 2019 - $390 EMP
- 2009 - $550 EMP

NSG 1er Pinot Blanc?!?!
- 2016 - $280

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42
Q

Chateau d’Yquem

A

Summary: The property that would become d’Yquem was once held by the King of England and Duke of Aquitaine, when his dominion included this portion of France. By 1593, it came into the hands of the Sauvage d’Eyquem (later spelled Sauvage d’Yquem) family, whose ownership continued until 1999. Françoise Joséphine de Sauvage d’Yquem married Count Louis Amédée de Lur-Saluces, godson to King Louis XV, in 1785, beginning the Lur-Saluces tenure over d’Yquem. By the end of the 16th century, the estate was recognized for late-harvest winegrowing, and by the late 18th and early 19th century, its reputation for quality was unparalleled, with such champions as Thomas Jefferson and Napoleon Bonaparte.

The first documented occurrence of a botrytized harvest at d’Yquem is 1847, when the Marquis de Lur-Saluces returned late from Russia to his harvest, only to discover the berries afflicted with the fungus. Many posit, however, that the presence of noble rot began in earlier years, such as the celebrated “comet vintage” of 1811, where the botrytis character purportedly remains palpable. At the Exposition Universelle de Paris, d’Yquem was awarded its own tier above all other châteaux, as a “superior first growth,” according to the 1855 classification.

During World War I, while Bertrand de Lur-Saluces served as an officer, d’Yquem was transformed into a military hospital. Bertrand’s nephew Alexandre succeeded him in managing the estate. After several successful decades, it was acquired by LVMH in 1999. The Lur-Saluces still own Château de Fargues. Pierre Lurton, who also manages Cheval Blanc, has run d’Yquem since 2004.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The large d’Yquem vineyard occupies the highest site in Sauternes, reaching 75 meters. Soils are heterogenous but largely composed of sandy gravel above clay-limestone, with several pockets of blue clay akin to those found at Pétrus. In 2019, farming was 100% organic, and the estate began conversion to biodynamic viticulture in 2020. With a team of 200 harvesters, passes in the vineyard average 5 or 6 but can extend beyond 10 and continue into December. Grapes are pressed three to four times, first pneumatically, then in vertical presses. After fermentation in new barrels for six to eight months, a preliminary blend is created, with several lots rejected. The wine is returned to barrel for another 20 months, with topping off multiple times per week. A final blend is crafted after further selection. The wine has long been celebrated for its balance, power, complexity, and immense capacity to age.

Y has seen a dramatic shift in style over the last several decades. Formerly fermented from the unbotrytized berries left at the end of harvest, it is now picked deliberately at the beginning, with a focus on Sauvignon Blanc (often 80%). Until the 2004 vintage, Y was vinified in a more oxidative style, with 36 months in 100% barrels. Today, it sees as little as 30% new oak for a much shorter duration. Y does not undergo malolactic fermentation but experiences bâtonnage. It is bottled with a few grams of residual sugar.

Château d’Yquem (White), Sauternes Premier Cru Supérieur: Grand vin. 75% Sémillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc (2015 vintage). Aged 26 to 28 months in barrel, 100% new.
- 2007 - $1,375 EMP
- 2006 - $1,575 EMP
- 2005 - $1,765 EMP
- 2001 - $2,500 EMP
- 2000 - $1,400 EMP
- 1997 - $790 EMP (375ml)
- 1989 - $870 EMP (375ml)
- 1986 - $1,275 EMP
- 1975 - $1,450 EMP (375ml)
- 1962 - $2,990 EMP
- 1959 - $2,700 EMP (375ml)
- 1955 - $3,095 EMP
- 1928 - $5,500 EMP

Y d’Yquem (White), Bordeaux: Dry white. 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon (2015 vintage). 1959 first vintage
- 2016 - $650 EMP
- 2009 - $1,195 EMP
- 2005 - $714 E47
- 2002 Superieur - $$910 EMP
- 2000 - $915 EMP
- 1994 - $820 EMP
- 1986 - $1,860 EMP
- 1973 - $1,520 EMP

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43
Q

Château Haut-Brion

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Summary: Evidence of winegrowing at Haut-Brion can be traced as far back as Roman Gaul. Archives from the 1520s further reference wines from “Aubrion” and “Haulbrion.” Jean de Pontac came into ownership of the property in 1525 through his wife’s dowry, and his family expanded Haut-Brion over the course of the next two centuries. In 1694, it was passed to the Daulède family, who also owned Château Margaux, before being partitioned in 1749. By this time, Haut-Brion’s wines had already built a reputation for exceptional quality, with particular admiration in England. While changes in ownership coincided with a period of decline during the post-Revolution years, Parisian banker Joseph-Eugène Larrieu helped revive the property after purchasing it at auction in 1836. In 1855, it was recognized as a first growth in the 1855 classification for the Exposition Universelle de Paris, the only estate outside the Médoc to be classified. Haut-Brion remained with Larrieu’s descendants until the 1920s, when it was bought by André Gibert; he lost the property to American banker Clarence Dillon following the global economic crisis. Dillon’s family continues its stewardship of Haut-Brion today, under Prince Robert of Luxembourg (Joan Dillon married Prince Charles of Luxembourg). The family has also owned neighboring La Mission Haut-Brion since 1983. Haut-Brion was the first major Bordeaux château to install stainless steel tanks in 1961, when winemaking was handled by Jean-Bernard Delmas. The winery was further modernized in 1991. Jean-Bernard’s son Jean-Philippe Delmas has managed the estate since 2004.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Haut-Brion reaches peak elevations of 27 meters. The vineyard has deep gravel soils, up to 18 meters, over clay in sand. The clay pockets have proved important for Merlot, and its plantings have increased since the 1990s. The property has over 500 different clones, replanted via a massal selection program in place since the 1970s. The winery produces around 70% of its own barrels at an on-site cooperage, run in collaboration with Seguin Moreau. Whites are harvested before dawn, sorted, and whole bunch-pressed in a pneumatic press. They experience no skin contact before fermentation in barrel, do not undergo malolactic conversion, and see minimal bâtonnage. Red wines are fermented in double-jacketed stainless steel tanks. Blending occurs after malolactic fermentation and before barreling.

Château Haut-Brion (Red), Pessac-Léognan Premier Grand Cru Classé: Grand vin. 50% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Cabernet Franc (2015 vintage). Aged 24 months in oak, 100% new.
- 2014 - $1,800 PSH
- 2012 - $1,000 PSH
- 2010 - $3,000 PSH
- 2009 (100 points) - $3,500 EMP, $3,900 PSH
- 2006 - $1,350 PSH
- 2005 (100 points) - $2,100 PSH
- 2003 - $2,850 FL, $1,500 PSH
- 2001 - $2,565 FL
- 1999 - $1,100 PSH
- 1998 - $3,385 FL
- 1990 - $2,750 PSH
- 1989 (100 points) - $9,820 FL, $3,000 PSH
- 1988 - $1,750 PSH
- 1986 - $3,075 FL
- 1985 - $1,900 PSH
- 1982 - $3,200 EMP, $4,490 FL, $2,895 PSH
- 1959 - $5,000 PSH
- 1945 - $28,500 PSH
- 1928 - $10,250 PSH

Château Haut-Brion (White), Pessac-Léognan: Grand vin. 69% Sauvignon Blanc and 31% Sémillon (2015 vintage). Aged 13 to 16 months in oak, 100% new.
Le Clarence de Haut-Brion (Red), Pessac-Léognan: Second wine. Inaugural vintage 2007.

Bahans Haut-Brion (Red), Pessac-Léognan: Former name of Le Clarence de Haut-Brion. Bottled non-vintage through 1975.

La Clarté de Haut-Brion (White), Pessac-Léognan: Second wine of both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion. Harvested from both estates. Inaugural vintage 2009.
Les Plantiers du Haut-Brion (White), Pessac-Léognan: Former name of La Clarté de Haut-Brion.

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44
Q

Château Palmer

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Summary: With uneven performances by Margaux’s second growths, Château Palmer is universally considered to be the appellation’s second-best property, behind Château Margaux. It is a third growth, yet in popular imagination and in the modern Liv-Ex classifications, it is chief among the “Super Seconds” of the Left Bank.

Château Palmer began its winemaking life as Château de Gasq. Purchased and renamed in 1814 by the English general Charles Palmer, Château Palmer amassed 80 ha of vineyards, but the London-based general swam in financial ruin and sold his namesake estate in 1843. In 1853 the Pereire family of Paris purchased the property, but they could not raise the status of a château better known for clairet than claret in time for the release of the 1855 classification. The family did however raise the quality of its vineyards and its wines throughout its 85-year tenure as owners. In 1938, amid worldwide depression and the threat of war, a consortium of Bordeaux négociants purchased Château Palmer; today, two négociant families represent the majority of shares: Sichel and Mähler-Besse. Thomas Duroux, a former Ornellaia winemaker, has been running the estate since 2004. The estate will be Demeter certified in 2019.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The Château Palmer grand vin blend typically mirrors the estate’s encépagement, with nearly equal proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and a small addition of Petit Verdot. In comparison with Château Margaux, the wine here is more supple and slightly more approachable in youth, yet it still has the capacity for long aging. With the higher proportion of Merlot in the blend, Château Palmer rarely exceeds 60% new oak. The élevage lasts up to 20 months. Alter Ego includes an even greater percentage of Merlot and is typically aged in one-third new oak. The estate began using 100% native yeast as well as experimenting with 30 hl foudres in 2017

Château Palmer
- 2014 - $968 E47
- 2012 - $7665 PSH
- 2010 - $1,145 E47
- 2009 - $1,080 E47, $900 PSH
- 2005 - $1,450 E47, $2,030 FL
- 2004 - $500 PSH
- 2002 - $440 PSH
- 2001 - $565 PSH
- 1997 - $1,250 E47
- 1996 - $725 PSH
- 1990 - $1,258 E47
- 1989 - $1,730 E47, $2,850 FL, $1,375 PSH
- 1983 - $3,895 FL
- 1959- $3,750 PSH

Alter Ego: Inaugural vintage 1998 (Previously “Réserve du Géneral”).

Historical XIX Century Wine: A Vin de France bottling that includes a small percentage of Hermitage Syrah. Inaugural vintage 2004 (2004 was labeled without a vintage).
Blanc de Palmer: Muscadelle, Loset, and Sauvignon Gris. Inaugural vintage 2007 (for modern rendition).
- 20.16 - $1,250 EMP
- 20.15 - $1,100 EMP
- 2007 - $610 PSH
- 2006 - $650 PSH

45
Q

Château Margaux

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Summary: One of five Premier Grand Cru Classé of the Médoc, Château Margaux is the top property in the Margaux appellation. (It is unclear if the original château, a 12th-century castle, preceded the Margaux village.) Its destiny as producer of one of the world’s most coveted red wines began with 16th-century owner Pierre de Lestonnac, who managed a transformation of the property’s farms by planting vineyards in place of cereal grains. By the end of the 17th century Château Margaux occupied a 265-hectare estate, with one-third of the domain planted to vines. Nearly a century later, the 1771 Château Margaux was advertised in the pages of Christie’s catalog—it was the first vintage Bordeaux claret to appear in its pages.

In 1801, Bertrand Douat acquired the property and demolished the old castle, erecting the neo-palladian château emblazoned on the grand vin label in its place in 1815. The price and prestige of the estate’s wine garnered Château Margaux inclusion in third place (as a first growth) behind Châteaux Lafite and Latour in the 1855 Classification of the Médoc.

The château passed through several owners in the 19th and 20th centuries, suffering a period of wavering quality in the middle of the last midcentury. In 1977 André Mentzelopoulos purchased Château Margaux and his family has restored its name and reputation as one of the preeminent wines of Bordeaux and the world. His daughter Corinne now owns the property; Paul Pontallier was the managing director until his passing in 2016.

Style/Vinification Techniques: Highly regarded for its opulence and perfume rather than power. The fruit is hand-harvested by a team of over 250 pickers, sorted in the vineyard and in the winery by hand and eye alone, and fermented in stainless steel and large, old wood casks. Macerations typically last up to three weeks. Cap management is by remontage alone, and after pressing the free-run juice undergoes malolactic fermentation in tank. Tronçais is the preferred forest; while the château relies on several coopers 20% of the barrels are made by Margaux’s in-house tonnelier. The final blend is assembled in February of the year after harvest, before the en primeur tastings. Collage (with 5-6 beaten egg whites) occurs before bottling, but the wines are never filtered.

Château Margaux: Typically 85-90% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and occasionally Petit Verdot. 20-24 month élevage occurs in 100% new oak. 130,000 bottle production (The grand vin represents approximately 1/3 of the total red wine production).
- 2012 - $1,200 PSH
- 2010 - $2,050 FL
- 2009 - $2,800 PSH
- 2006 - $1,320 PSH
- 2005 - $1,900 EMP
- 2001 - $3,260 FL
- 2000 - $2,850 E47
- 1999 - $1,350 EMP, $1,575 FL
- 1995 - $3,100 PSH
- 1990 - $2,500 FL, $4,500 PSH
- 1989 - $2,100 EMP, $3,650 EMP, $1,750 PSH
- 1988 - $2,2000 E47
- 1985 - $3,200 E47
- 1982 - $2,500 PSH, $4,500 PSH
- 1961 - $5,500 PSH
- 1959 - $6,500 PSH
- 1955 - $4,250 PSH, $4775 PSH

Pavillon Rouge: Typically 60-70% Cabernet Sauvignon with a remainder of Merlot. Aged 20 months in 50% new oak. 120,000 bottle production. Inaugural vintage 1978.
- 2018 - $800 PSH
- 2017 - $565 PSH
- 1990 - $1,234 E47

Pavillon Blanc: 12,000 bottle production. Inaugural vintage 1920.
- 2017 - $595 PSH
- 2016 - $595 PSH
- 2014 - $595 PSH
- 2010 - $978 E47, $595 PSH
- 2006 - $1,500 PSH
- 2004 - $595 PSH
- 2003 - $1,110 PSH Magnum
- 2002 - $1,110 PSH Magnum
- 1999 - $1,110 PSH Magnum
- 1986 - $1,068 E47, $645 PSH

Margaux du Château Margaux: 30,000 bottle production. Inaugural vintage 2009.

46
Q

Château Léoville-Las-Cases

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Summary: Likely the top property in Saint-Julien, this “Super Second” was once part of the grand Léoville estate, property of Alexander de Gasq in the 18th century. (Gasq also owned Château de Gasq, now known as Château Palmer.) Upon his death in the 1770s, the Marquis de Las-Cases inherited the lion’s share of his vineyards but fled the country in 1794, swept out by the revolution. With his absence the dismantling of the Léoville property began: Hugh Barton purchased one-quarter of the estate (now Château Léoville-Barton) in 1826, and another quarter passed to the Baron de Poyferré in 1840. Château Léoville-Las-Cases thus represents the core of the original estate—the 50-ha, walled Grand Clos directly south of Château Latour on Saint-Julien’s northern boundary.

The Las-Cases family maintained ownership of their namesake château until 1900, when financial difficulties forced a sale to a consortium. As members of the consortium, the Delon family gradually increased their holdings throughout the 20th century, and today Jean-Hubert Delon is sole owner of the château.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Château Léoville-Las-Cases is a Pauillac-like style of Saint-Julien, and it veers toward concentration and richness rather than elegance. Cabernet Sauvignon usually accounts for at least 75% of the grand vin, and the top wine is aged in 75% new oak. The estate pioneered green harvesting in the late 1980s and is not afraid to employ modern technologies like reverse osmosis in its hunt for power, ripeness, and depth—and a desire to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the five first growths.

Château Léoville-Las-Cases
- 2008 - $386 PSH
- 2005 - $1,745 FL, $825 PSH
- 2003 - $1,210 FL
- 2001 - $1,230 FL, $850 E47
- 2000 - $1,080 E47, $2,030 FL
- 1999 - $725 PSH
- 1998 - $774 E47, $665 PSH
- 1996 - $1,950 FL, $900 PSH
- 1995 - $930 E47, 1,230 FL
- 1994 - $625 FL
- 1990 - $2,255 FL, $895 PSH
- 1989 - $985 E47, $1,540 FL
- 1986 - $2,770 FL
- 1985 - $1,950 FL, $925 PSH
- 1982 - $2,800 FL, $1,060 PSH
- 1970 - $495 PSH

Clos du Marquis: This wine originated as a single-vineyard bottling from the Petit Clos, but over time it has grown to include other plots not appropriate for the grand vin. The estate does not consider it a “second wine,” but essentially it is.
- 2005 - $285 E47

Le Petit Lion du Marquis de Las-Cases: A true second wine, this bottling consists of a greater percentage of Merlot sourced from younger vine plots.
- 2010 - $261

47
Q

Château Cos d’Estournel

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Summary: In the Year of the Comet Louis Gaspard d’Estournel recognized the quality issuing from a few inherited vines near the hamlet of Cos, and began selling wines under his own name. In reminiscence of his travels in the Far East, d’Estournel erected the estate’s chai, surmounted by Chinese pagodas and infused with eastern décor (there is no actual château). But Estournel’s exotic tastes and rapid vineyard expansion may have ruined him; in 1852, one year before his death, he sold the estate to English bankers. It changed hands several more times in the 19th century before landing in the lap of négociant Fernand Ginestet in 1917. Throughout the latter 20th century, Cos d’Estournel emerged as a true “Super Second” and, without doubt, the most prestigious and expensive wine of Saint-Estèphe. The estate also controls the nearby Château Marbuzet and a northern Médoc property called Goulée.

In 2000, Michel Reybier purchased the estate. The company’s website advertises its portfolio of hotels, vineyard properties from Tokaj to Bordeaux, and healthcare operations.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: If Saint-Estèphe has a reputation for producing rugged and rustic wines, Cos d’Estournel is a complete departure from the local style. The modern wines are so polished, ample, and super-concentrated as to sustain both critical acclaim and attacks for being atypical. Recent vintages have focused more on Cabernet Sauvignon, with the grape amounting to 75-85% of the blend, but from the ‘90s through 2002 the grand vin more likely contained 35-45% Merlot. 80% new oak is the rule.

Cos d’Estournel
- 2018 - $595 PSH
- 2014 - $350 PSH - Ex Cellar,
- 2010 - $725 PSH - Ex Cellar,
- 2009 - $821 E47
- 2008 - $415 PSH
- 2005 - $710 EMP (375 ml), 750 PSH
- 2003 - $515 PSH
- 2000 - $800 PSH
- 1995 - $775 PSH
- 1989 - $1,350 EMP, $810 PSH
- 1985 - $900 PSH
- 1982 - $1,450 PSH
- 1971- $960 EMP

Cos d’Estournel Blanc: Released as Bordeaux AOP. Inaugural vintage 2005.
- 2019 - $510 EMP, $405 PSH
- 2016 - $425 PSH
- 2013 - $375 PSH

Les Pagodes de Cos: Inaugural vintage 1994.
- 2018 - $145 PSH
- 2016 - $150 PSH
- 2014 - $185 E47

48
Q

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou

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Summary: A “Super Second” of Saint-Julien, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou was once part of the Beychevelle estate. In the late 17th century the original Beychevelle property fractured and Beaucaillou (“beautiful stones”) was born. It remained in the hands of the Bergeron family from 1720 until 1795, when Bertrand Ducru acquired the property. He built its château in the 1820s and raised its renown as a source for wines, securing its status as a second growth in 1855. The Ducru family didn’t last long, however; the estate weathered two transitions of ownership until its eventual purchase by François Borie in 1941. The Borie family brought in Emile Peynaud to oversee winemaking, by the end of the century they built a new underground chai to quell the systemic TCA contamination that had plagued the winery in the late 1980s and early 1990s.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Château Ducru-Beaucaillou typically contains 80-85% Cabernet Sauvignon and ages for 18 months in 50-80% new oak. A Parker favorite in the new millennium, the modern wines are typically rich, polished, and very dense.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
- 2016 - $640 PSH
- 2015 - $575 PSH
- 2012 - $375 PSH
- 2009 - $1,200 PSH
- 2006 - $375 PSH
- 2005 - $625 PSH
- 2001 - $585 PSH
- 2000 - $625 PSH
- 1996 - $635 PSH
- 1995 - $650 PSH
- 1990 - $590 PSH, $800 PSH
- 1989 - $665 PSH
- 1988 - $665 PSH
- 1985 - $925 EMP, $685 EMP
- 1982 -$1,485 EMP, $1,200 PSH
- 1975 - $1,600 EMP
- 1970 - $750 EMP, $1,100 PSH
- 1966 - $1,666 (Magnum) EMP
- 1961 - $5,000 EMP

Croix de Beaucaillou: Inaugural vintage 1995.
- 2019 - $95 PSH

49
Q

Château Latour

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Summary: Latour (“the tower”) appears as early as 1331, when Gaucelme de Castillon received royal authorization to build the Tower of Saint-Maubert. The tower guarded the Gironde in the ensuing Hundred Years’ War, but it was soon seized by Anglo-Gascon troops and remained under English control until 1453. Once returned, the original tower was destroyed. By the early 17th century, owner Arnaud de Mullet reorganized the estate’s farms (and extensive vineyards) and commissioned a new tower, the iconic dovecote that appears on the label today.

In the late 1600s Marie-Thérèse de Clauzel took possession of the estate and married the owner of Château Lafite-Rothschild, Alexandre de Ségur in 1695. From 1695 through 1755 the two great châteaux were thus united in ownership. While ownership of Château Latour began to splinter in the latter 1700s, descendants of the Ségur family nonetheless maintained sole control over the property until 1962. By that year, however, there were so many minor shareholders (Ségurs, all) that sale was inevitable, and a British financial group purchased a majority stake. Château Latour remained in English hands until 1993, when a French billionaire named François Pinault acquired 93% of the company. The Ségur family retains the remainder.

Château Latour was ranked directly behind Château Lafite-Rothschild in 1855. In 1863 the château began bottling some of its wines on the property (though it did not fully convert to the practice until the 1930s). The pride of the property is L’Enclos, a 47-ha vineyard immediately surrounding the tower and château. It crowns a 16-meter-high croupe of gravel and is the primary source for the Château Latour grand vin.

In 2012 company president Frédéric Engerer made the surprising announcement to end Latour’s participation in Bordeaux’s en primeur tastings, preferring instead to release and sell wines “when they start to be ready to drink.”

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Château Latour produces the quintessentially powerful and long-lived style of Médoc Cabernet Sauvignon. The top wine typically contains at least 85% of the grape, harvested from vines with an average age of 50 years. After meticulous sorting in the vineyard and winery, fermentation takes place in conical stainless steel tanks; maceration typically lasts around four weeks. Malolactic fermentation also occurs in tank, prior to a 20-22 month élevage in 80-100% new wood. (Les Forts de Latour receives only 50% new wood, and typically the blend for the second wine includes up to 30% Merlot.) A light fining with egg white occurs in barrel, but the wines have not been filtered since 2000.

Château Latour
- 2012 - $1,800 E47
- 2011 - $1,750 E47
- 2010 - $3,00 E47
- 2009 - $3,150 E47
- 2008 - $1,800 E47
- 2007 - $1,950 E47
- 2006 - $2,00 E47
- 2005 - $3,200 E47, $3,000 PSH
- 2004 - $1,850 E47, $3,350 PSH
- 2003 - $2,194 E47, $2,200 PSH
- 2002 - $1,925 E47
- 2001 - $1,985 E47
- 2000 - $3000 E47, $5,300 EMP
- 1997 - $1,885 E47
- 1995 - $2,000 E47
- 1994 - $1,500 E47
- 1993 - $1,555 E47
- 1991 - $1,728 E47
- 1990 - $3,129 E47
- 1989 - $3,000 E47
- 1988 - $3,500 PSH
- 1987 - $1,950 E47
- 1986 - $2,000 E47, $4,425 PSH
- 1985 - $1,995 E47
- 1984 - $1,850 E47
- 1983 - $1,500 E47
- 1982 - $5,520 E47
- 1981 - $1,585 E47
- 1980 - $1,650 E47
- 1979 - $1,850 E47
- 1978 - $2,050 E47
- 1977 - $1,500 E47
- 1976 - $1,585 E47
- 1975 - $1,650 E47
- 1974 - $1,585 E47
- 1973 - $2,250 E47
- 1972 - $15,50 E47
- 1971 - $1,859 E47
- 1970 - $2,500 E47

Les Forts de Latour: The second wine is produced from plots outside the L’Enclos and young vines from within L’Enclos. Inaugural vintage 1966.
- 2010 - $784 E47

Le Pauillac de Château Latour: The third wine is produced from wines that do not meet selection criteria for Les Forts. Inaugural vintage 1973.

50
Q

Château Calon-Ségur

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Summary: Château Calon-Ségur, once joined with Lafite, Latour, and Mouton under the common ownership of Marquis Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur, is the most northerly classified growth in the Médoc. Its origins date to the Middle Ages, although vines did not appear until the arrival of the Ségur family in the 1700s. Nicolas-Alexandre’s son sold the property in 1798 to Etienne Dumoulin, adding Calon-Ségur to the possessions of the reigning family of Château Montrose for a few short years. In 1824, Théodore Dumoulin sold Calon-Ségur to the Lestapis family; in 1894 they in turn sold the property to the Capbern-Gasqueton family, who held ownership until 2012 when Suravenir purchased the estate.

Calon-Ségur has not dramatically changed in size since the 1855 classification. It consists of a single, walled parcel of vines adjacent to the château, standing at a meager 12 meters above sea level. The “Calon” is of uncertain origin: some suppose it refers to the calonis, a boat that traveled the estuary, while others suggest it is a contraction of old words for water and stone.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Calon-Ségur is a solid and sturdy representation of great Saint-Estèphe, though critics claim troubling inconsistency in some years. Grapes are hand-picked before both mechanical and hand-sorting. Macerations last 18-21 days before aging in barrel.

Château Calon-Ségur: Aged in new French oak for 18 to 20 months.
- 2010 - $800 FL
- 2009 - $925 FL, $630 EMP
- 2008 - $760 FL
- 2005 - $925 FL
- 2000 - $410 PSH, $466 E47
- 1998 - $925 FL
- 1996 - $885 FL
- 1995 - $885 FL
- 1986 - $525 PSH
- 1945 - $6,088 EMP

51
Q

Château Pichon-Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande

A

Summary: Formally the Château Pichon-Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande but commonly abbreviated as Château Pichon-Lalande, this cumbersomely named estate is widely regarded as a “Super Second” of the Médoc.

Pichon-Lalande was born in 1850 with the death of Joseph de Pichon-Longueville and the subsequent division of the original Pichon property into two separate estates: Pichon-Baron and Pichon-Lalande. The Pichon-Lalande château and its 42 hectares of vines he bequeathed to his three daughters. Virginie, the Comtesse de Lalande, took control of the siblings’ shared property and formally separated management of the two winemaking estates in 1860. It remained with this branch of the Longuevilles until 1926 when the property was unloaded to the Miailhe family, a prominent clan in the Bordeaux wine business. Three successive generations of Miailhes managed the property—the last, May-Élaine de Lencquesaing, inherited the estate in 1978, restored the château, and presided over an era of accomplished winemaking. Her children would not, however, follow in the family business, and she sold a majority stake in the château to Champagne Roederer in 2006. Today it is under the management of Sylvie Cazes, sister of Jean-Michel Cazes. (See Lynch-Bages for further information on the Cazes family.)

The château property is adjacent to Château Latour, and Pichon-Lalande’s vineyards spread southward along—and across—the Saint-Julien commune boundary, near Léoville-Las-Cases. 9 ha of vines are actually in Saint-Julien AOC, but the winery has received dispensation to include the fruit in its Pauillac wines. (Prior to 1959, the winery bottled a separate Saint-Julien.)

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The most striking element of the Château Pichon-Lalande grand vin is its high percentage of Merlot. One-third of the blend is Merlot—a large component for a classified growth in the Médoc and the highest proportion of Merlot for any Pauillac AOC grand vin. The high proportion of Merlot is cause for the winery to employ less new oak than most upper-echelon Médoc châteaux; only one-half of the oak used for the top wine is new each year.

Château Pichon-Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande
- 2009 - $800 PSH
- 2005 - $1,210 FL
- 2003 - $630 PSH
- 2001 - $1,335 FL
- 2000 - $1,745 FL
- 1996 - $600 PSH
- 1995 - $1,300 EMP
- 1990 - $600 PSH, $1,540 FL
- 1989 - $735 PSH
- 1988 - $540 PSH
- 1983 - $465 PSH
- 1978 - $785 PSH

Réserve de la Comtesse: Inaugural vintage 1973.
- 2019 - $175 PSH
- 2016 - $100 EMP
- 2015 - $180 PSH
- 2011 - $150 PSH
- 2010 - $215 PSH

52
Q

Château Pontet-Canet

A

Summary: Founded by Jean-François de Pontet in an old hamlet named Canet, the estate passed into the hands of a Danish-German négociant named Hermann Cruse in 1865. The Cruse family maintained the château for over a century and sold its wines to the French railways, establishing Pontet-Canet as a household name. But in 1973 the family’s négociant arm was embroiled in the Scandale à Bordeaux—French investigators brought charges against the company’s director, Lionel Cruse, asserting his complicity in buying and selling inferior wines as prestigious Bordeaux AOC products. The Cruse family was disgraced and forced to sell Pontet-Canet in the scandal’s wake. Guy Tesseron of Cognac fame bought the property in 1975 and installed Jean-Michel Comme as technical director in 1989. Together they have raised the estate from scandal and transformed the property into a biodynamic, natural-minded estate that often outperforms its 1855 ranking as a fifth growth.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Jean-Michel Comme, vineyard manager and winemaker for more than a quarter century, transformed Château Pontet-Canet into the first certified biodynamic classified growth in the Médoc. The low-trained, high-density vineyard (10,000 vines/ha) is unlike any other in Pauillac: Comme does not hedge, trim, leaf-thin, or green-harvest his vines. Fruit is hand-harvested and sorted by hand, before and after destemming. Ambient yeast fermentation occurs in both truncated cement vats and in large, temperature-controlled oak casks. Maceration lasts up to 3-4 weeks, with malolactic fermentation also occurring in vat and cask. After pressing, the wines are racked into three types of vessel for a 16- to 18-month élevage: new barriques (50%), 1-year-old barriques (15%), and egg-shaped cement “amphorae” (35%) of Comme’s own design. Collage is no longer practiced. The resulting style is incredibly ripe, extracted and brambly, but not overtly oaky.

Château Pontet-Canet (typically 90% of production)
- 2016 - $415 PSH
- 2015 - $350 PSH
- 2014 - $275 PSH
- 2012 - $325 PSH
- 2009 - $650 PSH
- 2008. -$325 PSH
- 2007 - $240 PSH
- 2006 - $350 PSH
- 2004 - $350 PSH
- 2000 - $600 PSH
- 1964 - $985 PSH

Les Hauts de Pontet-Canet: Inaugural vintage 1982 (as Château les Hauts de Pontet)

53
Q

Château Lafite Rothschild

A

Summary: Although the earliest-known mention of “Lafite” dates to 1234, the arrival of Jacques de Ségur by marriage in 1670 is generally acknowledged as the dawn of the estate as a winemaking property. His son Alexandre inherited the estate in 1691 and in an early union of two great châteaux, married the heiress of Château Latour four years later. His son Nicolas-Alexandre presided over the Lafite, Latour, and Calon (Ségur) estates until the union unraveled with his death in 1755. In that era the wines of Château Lafite found their footing in the City of London, where the prime minister himself was reputedly a regular customer. Later in the century the wine earned acclaim at Versailles, but the estate fell on hard times shortly before revolution broke out. The last relative of the Ségur family to preside over Château Lafite died by the guillotine.

Lafite passed through several hands after the French Revolution, but the estate maintained consistent management from 1797 through the 1855 classification under the Goudal family. Management and winemaking passed from father to son. Emile Goudal negotiated the purchase of a parcel called “Carruades”—then considered one of the finest in the Médoc—in 1853 as the various properties were jockeying for placement in the coming classification. A decade after Lafite was enshrined as first among four Premier Grand Cru Classé châteaux, Baron James de Rothschild purchased the property, and from 1868 onward the estate would be known as Château Lafite Rothschild.

In the modern era, Baron Eric de Rothschild arrived in 1974 to lift the winery from a postwar slump of awkward vintages and return Lafite to prominence. It is the largest first growth today, with 112 ha under vine. Charles Chevallier is the technical director and Christophe Congé is winemaker. Château Rieussec in Sauternes, Château L’Evangile in Pomerol, and Château Duhart-Milon in Pauillac also fall under Rothschild ownership.

The word “Lafite” derives from faîte, an old Médocain word indicating a ridge and a fitting description for the château—it occupies a 27-meter gravel croupe, one of the highest sites in Pauillac.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Château Lafite Rothschild is typically positioned as an elegant, subtle counterpoint to the power of Château Latour. The blend for the grand vin changes with each vintage; in recent years the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon varies from 80-98%. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel and wood vats, and the estate does not practice cold-soaking or pigeage. The grand vin wines rest in new barriques (from the château’s own cooperage) for 18-20 months prior to a light fining before bottling. The winemaking team has experimented with vacuum concentration and other modern techniques, but professes to keep the machines away in favor of achieving proper ripeness in the vineyard. The second wine contains up to 50% Merlot and is aged mostly in second-use barrels.

Château Lafite Rothschild: 16,000 cases
- 2006 - $1,700 PSH
- 2005 - $3,000 PSH
- 2003 - $2,600 PSH
- 1996 - $3,675 PSH
- 1989 - $3,100 PSH
- 1986 - $3,150 PSH
- 1985 - $2,900 PSH
- 1983 - $1,260 PSH
- 1982 - $7,000 PSH
- 1959 - $9,950 PSH
- 1955 - $5,550 PSH
- 1945 - $14,500 PSH

Carruades de Lafite: 20,000 cases. (The second wine of Lafite, known as “Moulin des Carruades” until 1985.)
- 2000 - $525 PSH
- 1998 - $490 PSH
- 1996 - $495 PSH

54
Q

Château Mouton Rothschild

A

Summary: As a marquee wine-producing property, the story of Château Mouton Rothschild begins in the early 18th century, when Joseph de Brane acquired the property. (Previously, like Latour and Lafite, it had been part of the Ségur family’s holdings.) The new owner attached his name to the estate, and Château Brane-Mouton ascended in price and reputation by the end of the century. In 1830 a banker named Isaac Thuret bought the estate but failed to maintain its quality, resulting in a disappointing second-place finish behind Lafite, Latour, Margaux, and Haut-Brion in 1855.

In 1853, on the eve of the classification, Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild purchased Château Mouton. (15 years later, Nathaniel’s uncle bought Lafite.) The new reigning family built the estate’s château in 1870 and improved the vineyards and the wine. In 1922, the 20-year-old Baron Philippe de Rothschild assumed management of the estate, beginning a lifelong quest to raise its status. From 1924 on, Baron Philippe bottled the entire production at the château—an unheard-of practice at the time. For the 1924 vintage he also commissioned cubist artist Jean Carlu to design the label, an advance indication of the unique artist labels adorning every new vintage of the grand vin from 1945 forward. In the 1930s Baron Philippe created Mouton-Cadet as an early second wine to raise the quality of the first. In 1973 his efforts finally bore fruit as Mouton was elevated to Premier Grand Cru Classé by decree of the minister of agriculture. He died in 1988, leaving his daughter Philippine to helm the château. With her death in 2014, her three children—Philippe, Camille, and Julien—jointly preside over the first growth and the family’s other Pauillac properties, Château d’Armailhac and Château Clerc-Milon. Philippe Dhalluim is the technical director for all three estates.

Mouton means “sheep,” an animal that appears on many of its labels, but the word here derives from the old motte, or mound. Like Lafite, it is named for its elevated position atop a 27-meter-high croupe.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Mouton Rothschild characterizations usually flutter into the realm of the sensual; the wine is often described as fleshy, rich, opulent, and showy. Modern vintages tend to show more oak sweetness and up-front spice than the other first growths. For the grand vin, Cabernet Sauvignon usually exceeds 80% of the blend, with Merlot making up most of the remainder. For example, Cabernet Sauvignon composed 90% of the wine in both 2011 and 2012. Fermentation occurs in wooden vats and élevage in new oak lasts for around 18 months prior to fining and light filtration. Lots of expensive gadgetry in the winery (optical sorting, must concentration), and in the vineyards Mouton is making some progress toward organic and biodynamic cultivation.

Château Mouton Rothschild
- 2015 - $1,550 PSH
- 2012 - $1,300 PSH
- 2010 - $3,000 PSH
- 2006 - $2,365 PSH
- 2005 - $2,200 PSH
- 2004 - $2,475 PSH
- 2003 - $2,565 PSH
- 1998 - $2,650 PSH
- 1996 - $1,500 PSH
- 1990 - $1,925 PSH
- 1989 - $1,850 PSH
- 1988 - $1,550 PSH
- 1986 - $2,800 PSH
- 1982 - $4,500 PSH

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild
- 2016 - $895 PSH

Aile d’Argent: Bordeaux AOC white wine

55
Q

Jean-Louis Chave

A

Summary: One of the legendary wine families of France, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave has, since 1481, been passed down from father to son for 16 generations. The family initially grew Saint-Joseph wines before phylloxera wiped out their vineyards on the hillsides above the domaine at Mauves. A wise ancestor chose to purchase land on the hill of Hermitage and rebuild the domaine there. Now widely considered the greatest grower on the hill, Chave makes world-class white and red Hermitage with exceptional ageability. One of the keys to the Chaves’ success is their ability to blend across multiple climats to create the best possible wine in any given year. To maintain this enviable track record, they do not produce single parcel “reserve” wines, believing that the blended wine is the best expression of the terroir of Hermitage. However, in top vintages they do produce 200 cases of a red, barrel-selection “Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin” that is as expensive as it is rare. Since 2015, Chave has produced a single vineyard Saint-Joseph, Clos Florentin, under its own label.

Gérard Chave took over the domaine in 1970 and brought it to worldwide fame; his son Jean-Louis Chave joined in 1992 after completing undergraduate studies at the University of Connecticut and receiving an enology degree from UC Davis. Jean-Louis has also built up the family’s négociant business, J.L. Chave Selection, presenting a more affordable opportunity to experience the family’s winemaking skills as their domaine wines have become increasingly rare and expensive.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: The Chave wines have evolved a bit since Jean-Louis took charge: There is a bit more new oak (10-30% for the reds and up to 33% for the whites—though this has decreased recently), and the wines are cleaner than his father’s. The reds are de-stemmed completely, punched down, fermented in stainless steel and oak vats, then aged in 228-liter barriques for 26 months. The white is whole-cluster pressed and 90% barrel-fermented in up to one-third new oak, then aged for 18 months. All wines are blended in tank prior to bottling. The strength of the domaine lies in the diversity of their holdings across the hill of Hermitage and the family’s mastery of blending, passed down from generation to generation. These factors, combined with their sensitivity to the vintage’s conditions and the classic expression of Hermitage, allow the Chaves to consistently produce some of the finest wines of the appellation.

Hermitage Blanc: 80-85% Marsanne, 15-20% Roussanne.
- 2020 - $910 EMP, $650 E47
- 2019 - $830 EMP, $628 E47
- 2018 - $860 EMP, $625 E47
- 2017 - $860 EMP, $858 E47
- 2016 - $780 EMP
- 2015 - $805 EMP
- 2013 - $790 EMP
- 2012 - $720 EMP
- 2000 - $750 E47

Hermitage Rouge: Les Bessards forms the core of this blend of seven climats.
- 2020 - $890 EMP
- 2019 - $850 EMP
- 2018 - $860 EMP
- 2017 - $865 EMP
- 2016 - $815 EMP
- 2015 - $780 EMP
- 2014 - $780 EMP
- 2013 - $790 EMP
- 2012 - $655 EMP
- 2011 - $655 EMP
- 2004 - $1,025 EMP
- 2001 - $1,150 EMP
- 2000 - $1,195 EMP
- 1998 - $1,015 EMP
- 1997 - $1,035 EMP
- 1994 - $975 EMP

Hermitage Rouge “Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin:” A barrel selection done just before bottling, produced only in top years (1990, 1991, 1995, 1998, 2000, 2003, 2009, 2010, and 2015 to date) and only if the quality of the regular cuvée is not compromised. Inaugural vintage 1990.
- 2009 - $9,942 WS
- 2003 - $10,502 WS
- 2000 - $8,149 WS
- 1998 - $8,397 WS
- 1995 - $8,153 WS
- 1991 - $11,936 WS
- 1990 - $13,273 WS

Hermitage Vin de Paille: Average 1,000 bottles (375 ml) produced.
- $2,768 - WS

Saint Joseph Rouge Clos Florentin: 80-year-old vines in Mauves. Inaugural vintage 2015.
- 2020 - $410 EMP, $325 E47
- 2019 - $300 E47
- 2018 - $335 EMP
- 2016 - $350 E47

56
Q

Domaine Jamet

A

Summary: The Jamet domaine was founded by Joseph Jamet in the 1950s, and with the help of sons Jean-Paul and Jean-Luc, the Jamets began domaine bottling in 1976. The brothers took over the domaine in 1991 and have continually planted new vineyards and expanded the domaine, mostly in the northern sector of the appellation with its schist soils. Jamet firmly believes in the virtues of blending over the production of single-site wines (with one notable exception); the domaine’s Côte-Rôtie is typically a blend of their 25 parcels across 17 lieux-dits. In early 2013 Jean-Luc left the family domaine, reportedly taking two hectares of vineyards with him. However, news to date has been spotty about the split. The domaine is currently run by Jean-Paul, his wife, Corinne, and their son, Loïc.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: For many people, Domaine Jamet is THE reference point for classically styled Côte-Rôtie. The grapes are partially de-stemmed according to the vintage— though the decision is not by rote. For example, the warm 2009 vintage was fermented as whole clusters, as was the much cooler 2011, but unique aspects of each vintage led to Jean-Paul’s corresponding decisions. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks in their refurbished, gravity-flow cellar, and the wines are aged in barrel for 18-22 months (maximum 20% new oak for the Côte-Rôtie; 33% new oak for “Côte Brune”). The wines are neither fined nor filtered at bottling.

Côte-Rôtie: a blend of all Jamet-owned parcels. Inaugural vintage 1976.
- 2020 - $490 EMP
- 2019 - $590 EMP
- 2018 - $540 EMP
- 2016 - $520 EMP
- 2015 - $380 EMP
- 2014 - $345 EMP
- 2013 - $335 EMP
- 2012 - $345 EMP
- 2011 - $385 EMP
- 1984 - $1,215 EMP

Côte-Rôtie “Fructus Voluptas”: Entry-level Côte-Rôtie. Aged 16 months in neutral oak barrels. Inaugural vintage 2008.
- 2012 - $350 EMP
- 2008 - $405 EMP

Côte-Rôtie “La Landonne”: from .26ha of vines planted in 1987. Inaugural vintage 2018.
- 2018 - $1,400 EMP

Côte-Rôtie “Côte Brune”: a limited cuvée from this 0.48-ha parcel, produced every year
- 2020 - $1,500 EMP
- 2019 - $1,700 EMP
- 2018 - $1,600 EMP
- 2016 - $950 EMP
- 2015 - $995 EMP
- 2014 - $790 EMP
- 2013 - $775 EMP
- 2012 - $1,110 EMP
- 2009 - $995 EMP
- 2008 - $985 EMP
- 2007 - $915 EMP
- 2006 - $790 EMP
- 2004 - $850 EMP
- 2002 - $920 EMP
- 2001 - $1,350 EMP
- 1999 - $1,950 EMP

Condrieu “Vernillon”: Sourced from the “Côte Chatillon” parcel. Aged in 50% barrels, 50% stainless steel. Inaugural vintage 2015.
- 2021 - $395 EMP
- 2020 - $420 EMP
- 2017 - $325 EMP
- 2016 - $290 EMP

57
Q

August Clape

A

Summary: The Clape family has a 250-year history working as vignerons, though they were forced to start from scratch in Cornas after relocating from the Languedoc due to the grower strikes of 1906 and 1907. Auguste Clape, who took over in 1949, is widely credited as the first to practice domaine-bottling in Cornas in 1957, using fruit from vineyards planted by his wife’s grandfather. He was joined by his son Pierre-Marie in 1989, who now runs the domaine with his son Olivier. For many people, this is the gold standard domaine in Cornas.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Clape is an example of a traditional approach to winemaking in the Northern Rhône. Red grapes are not de-stemmed, and the wines are punched down by foot and pumped over twice daily. Aging for the Cornas bottlings is 22 months in old 6- and 12-hl foudres. The Côtes du Rhône and Vin des Amis see 12 months in a combination of foudre and cement. The reds are not filtered, but they are fined with egg whites. The white is vinified and aged in stainless steel.

Cornas: assemblage from 12 parcels (average vine age 30-60 years)
- 2019 - $410 EMP
- 2017 - $385 EMP
- 2016 - $355 EMP
- 2015 - $335 EMP
- 2013 - $370 EMP
- 2009 - $700 EMP
- 2008 - $530 EMP
- 2005 - $730 EMP
- 1995 - $1,180 EMP
- 1990 - $1,800 EMP
- 1989 - $1,485 EMP
- 1988 - $1,200 EMP

Cornas “Renaissance”: assemblage from 12 parcels (average vine age 12-20 years): Inaugural vintage 1998.

Côtes du Rhône: 100% Syrah from vineyards outside the Cornas appellation
- 2018 - $175 EMP

Le Vin des Amis (Vin de France): declassified Côtes du Rhône; young vines from Cornas plus occasional Cornas press wine
- 2018 - $135 EMP
- 2014 - $95 EMP
- 2013 - $105 EMP

58
Q

Thierry Allemand

A

Summary: The son of a Valence factory worker, Thierry Allemand built his domaine from scratch after dropping out of school and discovering his love of the vine while working with Robert Michel. Thierry bought his first small plot in 1981 and continued to collect small plots here and there, tending his vines on the weekends while spending weekdays chez Michel (he only began working for himself fulltime in the mid-1990s). An inquiring mind, Thierry has continually evolved his winemaking. After starting out with a by-the-book approach, literally “making” his wines by adding yeast, tannin and enological enzymes as well as utilizing mechanical crushing and de-stemming, he abandoned all of these practices after seeking advice from older growers in the area, especially Noël and Louis Verset. He also eliminated racking and reduced the use of sulfur in his wines, believing that these two factors contributed to the perception of Cornas as a rustic, aggressive wine.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The approach at Allemand is traditional. Viticulture is organic and the yields have historically been low. The wines are not de-stemmed, and all pigeage is done twice daily by foot. The wines are aged in either old 228-liter barriques, 600-liter demi-muids, or larger 9-hl foudres; they are not racked and are bottled after 18-24 months in wood. Sulfur usage is very low, and the wines are not fined or filtered before bottling. The wines are powerful and aromatic, but more elegant than the village’s reputation for “hard, rustic wines” would lead one to believe.

*Cornas “Reynard”: a blend of parcels with average vine age over 40 years; usually includes old vines in Chaillots, Reynards, Le Tezier and La Geynale. Inaugural vintage 1991.
- 2010 - $900 EMP
- 2012 - $410 EMP
- 2013 - $525 EMP
- 2014 - $510 EMP
- 2015 - $530 EMP
- 2016 - $560 EMP
- 2017 - $785 E47
- 2018 - $830 E47
- 2016 - $825

*Cornas “Chaillot”: a blend of parcels with average vine age under 40 years; includes parcels in Chaillots, Le Tezier and Le Bois. Inaugural vintage 1991.
- 2012 - $375 EMP
- 2013 - $455 EMP
- 2014 - $425 EMP
- 2015 - $515 EMP
- 2016 - $515 EMP
- 2018 - $550 E47
- 2019 - $585 E47

Cornas “Sans Souffre”: a bottling with no added sulfur; usually from old vines in Reynards; bears a different label than the other wines and is labeled only “Cornas.” Inaugural vintage 1998

59
Q

René Rostaing

A

Summary: René Rostaing started as a part-time vigneron in 1971 while supporting his family in real estate. He had married into Côte-Rôtie royalty: His wife’s father was Albert Dervieux; her uncle was Marius Gentaz—both legends of the appellation. Upon their retirement in the early 1990s, Rene and his wife inherited their vineyards and now have an impressive array of 20 plots across 14 lieux-dits, including old vines in some of the greatest terroirs of Côte-Rôtie. They have also purchased plots in Condrieu, including some older vines, and have developed hillside land just outside the Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie appellations, from which they produce Syrah and Viognier vins de pays.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Rostaing produces elegant and long-lived Côte-Rôties. De-stemming is determined by the vintage conditions; the “Classique” is usually 30-40% de-stemmed, while the single-vineyard cuvées are 10% de-stemmed. The must is vinified in roto-fermenters, which are rotated twice a day at the height of fermentation and less at the end of maceration. Total time on the skins is about three weeks. The wines are aged half in barriques and half in demi-muids. The percentage of new oak is less than 20% each vintage, and the élevage lasts 18-24 months, depending on vintage. The wines are not filtered prior to bottling. The Condrieu has been fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel since 1998 and completes its malolactic fermentation.

Côte-Rôtie “Classique” (now called “Cuvée Ampodium” in the US): 100% Syrah from all of the lieux-dits except for La Landonne and Côte Blonde
- 2013 - $320 EMP
- 2014 - $230 EMP
- 2019 - $260 EMP
- 2020 - $270 EMP

Côte-Rôtie “La Landonne”: 100% Syrah from the old vines on La Landonne
- 2012 - $480 EMP
- 2013 - $485 EMP
- 2015 - $510 EMP
- 2016 - $520 EMP
- 2017 - $510 EMP
- 2019 - $545 EMP
- 2020 - $560 EMP

Côte-Rôtie “Côte Blonde”: 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier from Côte Blonde
- 2012 - $515 EMP
- 2013 - $555 EMP
- 2015 - $575 EMP
- 2016 - $575 EMP
- 2017 - $560 EMP

Condrieu “La Bonnette”: from Cote Bonnette and Sainte-Agathe
- 2020 - $155 PSH
- 2017 - $210 PSH
- 2016 - $200 PSH
- 2015 - $195 PSH

Côte-Rôtie “Côte Brune”
- 2013 - $970 EMP
- 2016 - $875 EMP
- 2017 - $950 EMP
- 2019 - $960 EMP
- 2020 - $980 EMP

60
Q

Alain Graillot

A

Summary: Alain Graillot came to wine after a career as an agrochemical engineer. He founded his domaine in 1985 with a parcel of rented vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage. Even with no background in winemaking, he quickly rose to the pole position and today is considered one of the top names in Crozes. The majority of the estate’s production is in red Crozes-Hermitage, though a small amount of white is produced, as are tiny amounts of Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. Alain is now retired (on paper), and his son Maxime (who also makes his own Domaine des Lise and Equis wines) took over the estate in 2008.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: The Graillot wines are a hybrid of the traditional and modern approaches in the region. They show ripe, concentrated and clean fruit, but only a maximum of 10% new oak is used in a vintage (most barrels are 228-liter barriques purchased used from friends in Burgundy). The red wines are made from whole clusters. Half of the white wine is fermented in stainless steel and half in 600-liter demi-muids; after seven months of aging sur lie they are blended together for bottling.

Crozes-Hermitage “La Guiraude”: a barrel selection, bottled only in top years
- 1995 - $550 EMP
- 2003 - $345 EMP
- 2005 - $420 EMP
- 2016 - $175 EMP
- 2018 - $185 EMP
- 2019 - $180 EMP

Crozes-Hermitage (red)
- 2014 - $145 EMP
- 2015 - $165 EMP
- 2016 - $115 EMP
- 2019 - $110 EMP
- 2020 - $110 EMP

Crozes-Hermitage (white)

61
Q

E. Guigal

A

Summary: This world famous house was founded in 1946 by Étienne Guigal, who’d gotten his start in Côte-Rôtie at age 14 when he worked in the vineyards of Vidal-Fleury. Étienne’s son Marcel joined him in 1961 (age 18) after Étienne was suddenly struck blind. Together, they built the house of Guigal into the most recognizable name in Côte-Rôtie, and they brought the world’s attention to the wines of the appellation. In 1984, the two bought out Étienne’s former employer, Vidal-Fleury, along with their impressive array of vineyards… and in subsequent years, they went on to expand by buying Domaine de Bonserine, JL Grippat, de Vallouit, and the Château d’Ampuis. They folded the vineyards of Grippat and de Vallouit into their own production while keeping Domaine de Bonserine and Vidal-Fleury operating as separate entities. In addition, they now have their own cooperage to better control the quality of the wood for their aging program. While their very modern wines have not always been the favorite style of the older generation in Côte-Rôtie, Guigal has generally received a tip of the chapeau for the attention they brought to Côte-Rôtie and the continuing success of the appellation.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Guigal is credited as a pioneer in bringing modern winemaking techniques to the Northern Rhône. The house favors lush, ripe fruit supported by long aging in new barriques. This culminates in the “La La” bottlings (La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque) and “Ex Voto” red, all of which are aged for 42 months in 100% new oak. For the white wines, the Viogniers are macerated on the skins overnight before pressing, while the Marsanne and Roussanne grapes are immediately whole-cluster pressed. The top whites, Condrieu “La Doriane” and Ermitage “Ex Voto,” are vinified and aged in 100% new oak; the rest have a portion vinified in stainless steel prior to oak aging. The reds are sometimes de-stemmed, sometimes not, depending on vintage conditions.

Côte-Rôtie “Château d’Ampuis”: 93% Syrah, 7% Viognier; from three lieux-dits in Côte Blonde (source of all of the Viognier) and four lieux-dits in Côte Brune; average vine age is 40-50 years
- 2013 - $275 PSH
- 2012 - $300 PSH

Côte-Rôtie “La Mouline”: 89% Syrah, 11% Viognier; sourced from a plot of the same name on the Côte Blonde, average vine age is 60 years
- 1983 - $2,875 EMP
- 1988 - $2,245 EMP
- 1989 - $1,890 EMP
- 1990 - $2,220 EMP
- 1993 - $715 EMP

Côte-Rôtie “La Landonne”: 100% Syrah; average vine age is 20 years
- 1978 - $5,710 EMP
- 1988 - $2,275 EMP
- 1989 - $2,595 EMP
- 1990 - $3,200 EMP
- 1991 - $2,275 EMP
- 1995 - $1,700 EMP
- 1997 - $1,800 EMP
- 1999 - $2,500 EMP

Côte-Rôtie “La Turque”: 93% Syrah, 7% Viognier; sourced from an extremely steep plot on Côte Brune, planted in 1980
- 1985 $3,595 EMP
- 1986 - $1,405 EMP
- 1987 - $1,485 EMP
- 1988 - $2,245 EMP
- 1989 - $1,975 EMP
- 1996 - $1,170 EMP
- 1997 - $1,450 EMP

Ermitage Blanc “Ex-Voto”: 93% Marsanne, 7% Roussanne; 90% from Murets, 10% from l’Hermite
- 2012 - $360 PSH
- 2010 - $755 PSH
- 2007 - $380 PSH

Ermitage Rouge “Ex-Voto”: 30% each Bessards and Greffieux; 20% each l’Hermite and Murets
- 2015 - $895 PSH
- 2012 - $895 PSH
- 2010 - $1,250 PSH
- 2009 - $955 PSH
- 2007 - $705 PSH
- 2006 - $800 PSH
- 2005 - $655 PSH

62
Q

Paul Jaboulet Aîné

A

Summary: Founded in 1834 by Paul Jaboulet, Jaboulet Aîné (aîné means “older brother,” a reference to Paul) is one of the great, historic names in the Northern Rhône. The house stayed in the family through multiple generations until being sold in 2006 to the Swiss financier Jean-Jacques Frey (owner of Château La Lagune and a shareholder in Billecart-Salmon and Ayala). In the eyes of many critics, the quality of the Jaboulet wines had slipped, particularly since the early passing in 1997 of Gérard Jaboulet… yet Caroline Frey, now in charge of the winemaking, is keen to restore the house to its previous glory. The top Hermitage bottlings of the estate are named “La Chapelle” after the small chapel of Saint Christopher in the climat of l’Hermite; Jaboulet has owned the chapel itself since 1929 (though they own no vines in that climat).

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: The main change instituted by the new Frey regime has been a stricter selection for the top wines, with only 2,000 cases bottled of the 2009 Hermitage Rouge “La Chapelle”—roughly one-quarter the volume of the average-quality 2000 vintage. The white wines are whole-cluster pressed and vinified entirely in oak (about one-third new for the top wines), though “La Chapelle” Blanc is vinified and aged in larger casks rather than barriques. The lees are stirred regularly for the whites. The reds are completely de-stemmed, vinified in stainless steel with regular remontages and aged in barriques (20% new for the top wines) for 12-15 months.

Hermitage Rouge “La Chapelle”: a barrel selection based around on Le Méal, with Les Bessards, Les Greffieux and La Croix usually key components
- 2013 - $620 PSH
- 2012 - $845 PSH
- 2010 - $790 PSH
- 2001 - $450 PSH, $520 EMP
- 2000 - $585 EMP
- 1997 - $375 PSH
- 1996 - $555 EMP
- 1989 - $975 EMP
- 1988 - $890 EMP
- 1985 - $690 EMP
- 1983 - $785 EMP

Hermitage Blanc “La Chapelle”: 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne from Rocoules
- 2020 - $174 WS
- 2014 - $168 WS
- 2010 - $249 WS
- 2009 - $254 WS
- 2006 - $219 WS

Hermitage Blanc “Chevalier de Stérimberg”: 65% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne
Crozes-Hermitage “Domaine Thalabert”: 100% Syrah from Thalabert
- 2012 - $115 EMP

Crozes-Hermitage Rouge “Domaine de Roure”: 100% Syrah from the old Raymond Roure vines at Sassenas and Voussères
- $47 Wine-searcher average

Crozes-Hermitage Blanc “Domaine de Roure”: 100% Marsanne from the old Raymond Roure vines at Les Blancs
- $45 Wine-searcher average

63
Q

Château Cheval Blanc

A

Summary: While vines have purportedly grown on the Château Cheval Blanc property since antiquity, the estate’s modern history begins in 1832. In that year, Jean-Jacques Ducasse purchased a portion of Château Figeac, then much larger than it is today. Ducasse and, later, his son-in-law Jean Laussac-Fourcaud, continued to expand the property over the next two decades, almost to its current boundaries. The wine was first labeled Cheval Blanc, meaning “white horse,” in 1853. Cheval Blanc achieved early acclaim, earning medals at the 1862 Universal Exhibition in London and the 1878 Universal Exhibition in Paris—both still depicted on the label. By the end of that century, Cheval Blanc commanded a price equivalent to the first growths of the Médoc.

After Laussac-Fourcaud’s death in 1888, the estate was passed to his wife, then his son Albert, and then Albert’s sons Jacques and Joseph. The estate continued to solidify its dominance in the Right Bank hierarchy throughout the 20th century, vinifying in 1947 what is regarded as one of the greatest wines of all time and achieving premier grand cru classé A status in 1955. Jacques Hébrard managed the estate for much of the latter half of the 1900s, followed briefly by his son Dominique. Pierre Lurton stepped into the role in 1991 and continues today. In 1998, Cheval Blanc was purchased by Bernard Arnault and Baron Albert Frère, and in 2009, LVMH bought out Arnault’s shares. A new cellar with a hyper-modern design by architect Christian de Portzamparc was completed in 2011. Pierre-Olivier Clouet serves as technical director.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Cheval Blanc is situated near the Pomerol border and, like Figeac, is rooted primarily in gravel rather than limestone, the soil of most other top Saint-Émilion estates. These gravel soils, along with a slightly warmer microclimate, lend themselves to a particular quality of Cabernet Franc that, notably, composes about two-thirds of the grand vin. Since the estate is planted to nearly equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this results in the second wine, Le Petit Cheval, being made with a higher proportion of Merlot. For Château Cheval Blanc, each parcel is vinified separately in concrete vats of varying sizes, where the wine also undergoes malolactic fermentation. Subsequently, the wine is moved to new barrels for 18 months of aging.

Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Grand vin. 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc (2015 vintage). Fermented in concrete vats. Aged for 18 months in 100% new barrels.
- 2012 - $1,500 PSH
- 2009 - $3,790 EMP
- 2005 - $2,200 PSH
- 2000 - $2,880 EMP, $2,155 PSH
- 1998 - $1,600 PSH
- 1995 - $1,700 PSH
- 1990 - $3,200 E47, $3,100 PSH
- 1989 - $1,600 PSH
- 1985 - $10,500 PSH
- 1982 - $3,150 PSH
- 1964 - $5,950 PSH
- 1955 - $6,850 PSH
- 1950 - $7,500 PSH
- 1949 - $7,200 PSH
- 1947 - $17,500 PSH

Le Petit Cheval, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Second wine. Aged for 12 months in 50% new oak. Inaugural vintage 1988.

Le Petit Cheval, Bordeaux Blanc: Sauvignon Blanc, blended with Sémillon beginning in 2018. Fermentation followed by 16 to 18 months aging in barrel and larger oak vessels. Inaugural vintage 2014.
- 2019 - $495 EMP

64
Q

Château Angélus

A

Summary: Château Angélus has been in the possession of the de Boüard family since 1782. Jean de Boüard de Laforest first acquired vines in Saint-Émilion that year, and his daughter Catherine established her home on what was then called Château Mazerat. In 1909, her descendent Maurice de Boüard inherited the property, and in 1921, he expanded the vineyards, including a three-hectare parcel he called L’Angélus. The vineyard forms an amphitheater beneath three churches, whose angelus bells give the estate its name. Maurice’s two sons combined L’Angélus with Mazerat to create the estate known today.

In 1988, Hubert de Boüard took control of the estate from his father and began to implement several new viticultural and vinification practices, many inspired by Burgundy. These included the use of a sorting table, green harvest, whole berry fermentation, malolactic fermentation in barrel, separating lots by parcel, and aging on fine lees—standard today but not at the time. He also dropped the “L” to rebrand as Angélus, propelling the estate to the top of alphabetical listings. Angélus was elevated to premier grand cru classé B status in 1996 and finally A status in 2012. Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal and Thierry Grenié de Boüard, Hubert’s daughter and nephew, help run the estate today, and Michel Rolland consults.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Angélus is notable for its high percentage of Cabernet Franc, planted in more gravelly sectors of the vineyard. The destemmed, optically sorted berries are fermented whole in a combination of stainless steel, concrete, and wood vats. The wine proceeds to malolactic fermentation in 100% new barrels, where it ages for several months on its fine lees, before racking and bottling after 18 to 24 months.

Château Angélus, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Grand vin. 62% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc (2015 vintage). Fermented in stainless steel, concrete, and wood vats. Aged in 100% new oak for 18 to 24 months.
- 2015 - $1,100 PSH
- 2014 - $975 PSH
- 2012 - $1,065 PSH
- 2009 - $975 PSH
- 2008 - $600 PSH
- 2007 - $550 PSH
- 2006 - $650 PSH
- 2005 - $1,500 PSH
- 2000 - $1,035 PSH
- 1998 - $1,250 PSH
- 1996 - $2,050 PSH
- 1989 - $1,925 PSH, $1,395 PSH
- 1988 - $1,500 PSH
- 1959 - $2,750 PSH

Le Carillon de l’Angélus, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Second wine. Vinified from parcels not classified as premier grand cru classé Inaugural vintage 1987.
- 2016 - $300 PSH
- 2012 - $315 PSH

3 d’Angélus, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Third wine. Aged entirely in used oak, and meant for early consumption. Inaugural vintage 2007.

65
Q

Vieux Château Certan

A

Summary: While its earliest history remains nebulous, Vieux Château Certan, colloquially referred to as VCC, was one of the first winegrowing properties in Pomerol. The estate was founded in the 16th century by the Scottish Demay family, the property gifted to them by the French crown. Vineyards are believed to have been planted in the 18th century, and in 1785, the estate, then called Sertan, was identified in Belleyme’s map of the region. In the 1800s, Certan de May splintered from Vieux Château Certan, which was acquired by Parisian banker Charles de Bousquet in 1858. The château was purchased in 1924 by the Belgian négociant Thienpont family, which maintains control of the estate. Alexandre Thienpont runs Vieux Château Certan and has modernized the cellars, created a second wine, La Gravette de Certan, and introduced new viticultural techniques with a focus on reducing yields. Vieux Château Certan is planted in a single block, a rarity for a sizeable piece of property on the Right Bank. The vineyard sits atop the Pomerol plateau, primarily in gravelly-clay soils.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: While many place Vieux Château Certan in the “traditionalist” camp, the estate employs many modern precision viticulture techniques. Infrared cameras are attached to tractors to monitor the wines, and a GPS system observes different sectors of the vineyard. Fruit from the oldest vines ferments in oak vats, while the rest is vinified in stainless steel. The Merlot undergoes malolactic fermentation in barrel, 50% new, and the Cabernet Franc does so in tank. The wines age for 18 to 22 months before bottling.

Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol: Grand vin. Fermented in stainless steel and oak vats. Aged for 18 to 22 months in 50% new barrels.
- 2015 - $796 PSH
- 2014 - $595 PSH
- 2012 - $495 PSH
- 2009 - $795 PSH
- 2008 - $475 PSH
- 2007 - $425 PSH
- 2006 - $510 PSH
- 2005 - $695 PSH
- 2004 - $535 PSH
- 2001 - $565 PSH
- 2000 - $875 PSH
- 1999 - $900 PSH

La Gravette de Certan, Pomerol: Second wine. Assembled from young vine and declassified lots. Inaugural vintage 1986.
- 2017 - $185 PSH

66
Q

Petrus

A

Summary: The earliest records of Petrus date to the mid-1700s, and by the end of that century, it was under the stewardship of the Arnaud family, which is also at the origins of Château Clinet. While Pomerol was less fashionable than the Left Bank throughout the 19th century, over the course of those years, Petrus began to transcend its category, both in reputation and price. Around World War I, the Arnaud family began to sell off Petrus, and Madame Loubat, a widowed hotelier from Libourne, slowly acquired parcels beginning in the 1923 until eventually reaching full ownership. In the 1940s, Loubat hired Jean-Pierre Moueix to oversee production, and together they decided to price Petrus equivalent to the 1855 first growths. Loubat passed away in 1961, bequeathing the estate to her niece and nephew, and a portion to Moueix. By the end of that decade, Moueix and his son Jean-François had bought out the family, hired Jean Claude Berrouet to lead the winemaking team, and expanded the vineyard by five hectares. Jean-François Moueix and his family still own a majority stake in Petrus today, and billionaire Alejandro Santo Domingo purchased a 20% share in 2018. Jean Claude Berrouet’s son Olivier serves as winemaker.

Petrus shares its name with the hill upon which it is located, named for a Roman who owned the property in ancient times. While much of Pomerol is blanketed in gravelly-clay, Petrus is almost uniformly rooted in deep, dense blue clay soils. The wine’s power is often traced to this attribute, as is the decision to maintain such a high percentage of Merlot, with Cabernet Franc only contributing a small fraction to the blend.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Renowned for its ageability and power, Petrus is often described as rich and velvety in texture. Grapes are always destemmed and are sorted optically. Vinification proceeds in a dozen temperature-controlled concrete vats that range from 50 to 130 hectoliters in size. A short pre-fermentation maceration is followed with up to three weeks of post-fermentation maceration. Malolactic fermentation is performed in a different vat, and the lots destined for Petrus are blended and aged in barrel, half of which are new. The exact length of élevage varies by vintage, and the wines are fined and filtered before bottling.

Petrus, Pomerol: Grand vin. 100% Merlot (2015 vintage). Fermented in concrete vats. Aged for 18 to 20 months in 50% new French oak barrels.
- 2012 - $4,995 EMP
- 2011 - $4,800 EMP
- 2005 - $23,760 FL
- 2003 - $4,800 EMP
- 2001 - $14,740 FL
- 2000 - $31,960 FL
- 1998 - $19,500 FL
- 1995 - $21,300 FL
- 1990 - $28,680 FL
- 1989 - $7,995 EMP $23,350 FL
- 1986 - $13,100 FL
- 1985 - $13,375 FL
- 1982 - $25,000 FL
- 1979 - $3,600 EMP

67
Q

Château Figeac

A

Summary: In the second century, the Gallo-Roman Figeacus family built a villa on the Château Figeac property and gave it their name. Vines have been cultivated there ever since, and vestiges of buildings from the ancient, medieval, and Renaissance eras remain on the property. One of five noble houses of Saint-Émilion by the Renaissance, Figeac changed hands from the Lescours family (who also owned Ausone) to the Cazes family (who built the château) to the Carles family through marriage in the 1600s. In the years leading up to the French Revolution, Elie de Carles and his predecessors expanded Figeac to 200 hectares. That land has since fractured, now making up portions of other famous estates, including Cheval Blanc and La Conseillante. In 1892, when Figeac was sold to its present owners, the Chevremont (today Manoncourt) family, the property was just 37 hectares.

In 1947, Thierry Manoncourt took full control of his family’s estate after graduating with a degree in agricultural engineering. Eight years later, Figeac was classified as premier grand cru classé B. Manoncourt instituted several notable changes. While still a student, in 1945, he vinified a second wine for Figeac, making it the first major estate in the Right Bank to do so. Manoncourt was also the first to employ temperature-controlled stainless steel fermentation tanks in 1971. He passed away in 2010, leaving the estate in the hands of his wife and daughter. Frédéric Faye manages Figeac today, while Michel Rolland consults.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Three gravelly ridges traverse the Figeac vineyard, with little clay subsoil, a departure from the limestone beds of most of Saint-Émilion’s top properties. The unique geology of Figeac encouraged Manoncourt to increase plantings of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, whose dominance in the blend, unique in Saint-Émilion, defines much of the grand vin’s character. The wine ferments by parcel in a combination of stainless steel and conical, open-top wood vats. Malolactic fermentation proceeds in entirely new French oak barriques, followed by 14 to 18 months of aging.

Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Grand vin. 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc (2015 vintage). Fermented in stainless steel and conical, open-top wood vats. Aged for 14 to 18 months in 100% new French oak barrels.
- 2018 - $850 E47
- 2016 - $850 E47
- 2015 - $870 E47
- 2010 - $495 PSH
- 2009 - $450 PSH, $980 EMP
- 1985 - $565 PSH
- 1982 - $1,000 PSH
- 1966 - $2,450 PSH
- 1962 - $2,700 E47

Petit Figeac, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Second wine. Assembled from declassified lots. Inaugural vintage 2012.
La Grange Neuve de Figeac, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Former name of second wine. Inaugural vintage 1945.

68
Q

Château Ausone

A

Summary: The exact origins of Château Ausone are cause for debate. The estate takes its name from Decimus Magnus Ausonius, a poet who cultivated vines on one-tenth of his 1,000-acre property in the fourth century CE. Whether that included what is today Château Ausone is another question, but traces of ancient ruins can be found there. Despite its millennia of history, the property has only been owned by a handful of families since the 13th century, beginning with the Lescours family. The Chatonnet-Cantenat family has held ownership of Ausone since acquiring it in 1690. Now carrying the last name Vauthier, it is their descendants, Alain and his daughter Pauline, who maintain control of the estate.

While the wines of Ausone were highly regarded in the 1800s—admired for withstanding oidium, phylloxera, and mildew and rated the top Saint-Émilion estate in the Cocks & Féret guide by the end of that century—the estate is widely considered to have entered a period of decline by the mid-1900s, despite earning premier grand cru classé A classification in 1955. Alain Vauthier assumed winemaking duties in 1976 and has helped restore the winery’s reputation.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Ausone is the smallest of any Bordeaux premier cru but is heralded for its seven hectares deeply rooted in limestone, unique in Saint-Émilion and prized for the signature it imparts on the wines. Cabernet Franc thrives in these soils and is used at a high percentage in the wines of Ausone; Vauthier plans to increase its inclusion to roughly two-thirds. The grapes experience a cold maceration prior to fermentation in large oak vats. The wine is then transferred to 100% new barrels for malolactic fermentation and up to two years of aging before bottling. The wine is celebrated for its combination of purity and power.

Château Ausone, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Grand vin. 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot (2015 vintage). Fermented in large oak vats. Aged two to three years in 100% new oak.
- 2011 - $1,600 PSH
- 2004 - $1,585 PSH
- 2003 - $3,050 PSH
- 2002 - $1,400 PSH
- 1997 - $700 PSH
- 1995 - $840 PSH
- 1900 - $1,500 PSH
- 1983 - $1,035 PSH
- 1982 - $1,560 PSH
- 1900 - $16,000 PSH

Chapelle d’Ausone, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Second wine. Fruit harvested from younger vines. Inaugural vintage 1995.
- 1999 - $400 PSH

69
Q

Château Lafleur

A

Summary: Château Lafleur is regarded by many as the biggest challenger to Pétrus as the greatest wine of Pomerol, with prices that match. While vineyards were cultivated here earlier in the 19th century, Lafleur’s contemporary history began in 1872, when the property was purchased by Henri Greloud, who owned the adjacent Le Gay. Two decades later, the wine Greloud made there had attracted documented recognition, considered only inferior to Pétrus and Vieux Château Certan in Pomerol. Lafleur remains in the control of Greloud’s descendants today. His son Charles inherited the estate in 1900, before selling it along with Château Le Gay to his cousin André Robin 15 years later. After World War II, André’s daughters Marie and Thérèse took over the estate. The two sisters enacted little change to the estate over the ensuing decades. In the 1980s, they hired Christian Moueix and Jean-Claude Berrouet to oversee production, the duo bringing significant acclaim with the 1982 and 1983 vintages. Upon Thérèse’s passing in 1984, Marie leased the property to her second cousins Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau. The Guinaudeaus fully acquired the property in 2001, after Marie’s death, and run Lafleur today.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Located within the Pomerol plateau, Lafleur occupies a nearly square-shaped block of vines. The vineyard is sub-divided into four sectors: the brown gravel-coated hill to the northwest, gravelly-clay with sandy gravel topsoil to the south, the sandy clay section to the east near Pétrus, and the deeper soils at the center of the vineyard. Château Lafleur is notable for its unusually high percentage of Cabernet Franc, constituting roughly half of the cuvée and defining much of Lafleur’s character. Sorting occurs both in the vineyard and at the winery, and a three-week maceration and fermentation takes place in small concrete vats. The wines are then moved to barrel, one-quarter to one-third new and the rest used. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques, and the wines age 15 months prior to bottling.

Château Lafleur, Pomerol: Grand vin. 54% Cabernet Franc, 46% Merlot (2015 vintage). Fermented in small concrete vats. Aged for 15 months in 25% new barrels.
- 2005 - $10,230 E47
- 2003 - $3,795 E47
- 2000 - $11,685 E47
- 1989 - $5,310 E47
- 1986 - $1,930 E47
- 1985 - $4,490 E47

Les Pensées de Lafleur, Pomerol: Second wine. Harvested from the deep gravelly-clay sand soils at the center of the vineyard. Fermented in small concrete vats. Aged for 15 months in 25% new barrels.

70
Q

Le Pin

A

Summary: Unlike most of Pomerol’s top estates, Le Pin was founded in the 20th century and without a grand château, the first estate of the garagiste movement. The winery’s name comes from a lone pine tree whose branches shaded a small house near the top of the Pomerol plateau. The single hectare property belonged to the Loubie family from 1924 to 1979, during which time its fruit was sold off or blended into rather generic Pomerol wines. Le Pin, as it is known today, was founded by the Thienpont family, owners of Vieux Château Certan, who saw potential in this tiny unknown property and acquired it in 1979. Eventually, Le Pin and its ramshackle cellar fell into Jacques Thienpont’s hands, and in 1984, he expanded the vineyard by purchasing an adjacent vegetable patch, as well as additional small parcels of land in the ensuing years. Le Pin continues to remain a small enterprise, but it nonetheless attracts some of the highest prices for any Bordeaux wine, thanks to early acclaim from critics such as Robert Parker with its 1982 vintage. Thienpont completed a new winery facility in 2012 and has continued to acquire tiny bits of land into the 21st century, a handful of rows at a time.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Le Pin comes from a small, iron-rich, gravelly-clay vineyard near the highest point of the Pomerol plateau, with excellent drainage. Le Pin was likely the first Bordeaux estate to perform malolactic fermentation in barriques, more an act of necessity than a deliberate decision when additional tank space was needed. The wine, almost entirely Merlot, ages in 100% new French oak barrels for 14 to 16 months and is bottled unfiltered. Le Pin is celebrated for its opulence but perceived by some as overripe in certain vintages.

Le Pin, Pomerol: Grand vin. 100% Merlot (2015 vintage). Fermented in small stainless steel tanks. Aged for 14 to 16 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Inaugural vintage 1979.
- 2011 - $7,000 PSH Magnum
- 1997 - $1,800 PSH
- 1993 - $2,100 PSH
- 1988 - $2,700 PSH
- 1983 -$ 15,560 PSH
- 1979 - $5,500 PSH

Trilogie, Pomerol: A three-vintage blend from declassified lots.

71
Q

Château Pavie

A

Summary: The Pavie hillside takes its name from a variety of peaches that once grew there, before they were uprooted for vines in the fourth century CE. Château Pavie, as it is recognized today, however, didn’t take shape until the late 19th century, when Ferdinand Bouffard assembled parcels to create what is now the Pavie vineyard. He did not, however, call his wine Pavie nor vinify his parcels into a single bottling. Albert Porte purchased and united the estate in 1919, subsequently selling off a portion that would become Pavie-Decesse. The whole of Pavie was sold to Alexandre Valette in 1943, whose first couple of decades of ownership brought acclaim to the estate, including premier grand cru classé B classification. The subsequent years were deemed less successful, and in 1998, the winery was put up for sale again and this time purchased by Gérard Perse, who maintains ownership today. Perse also owned Pavie-Decesse and La Clusière, and after petitioning the INAO, incorporated La Clusière and a portion of Pavie-Decesse back into Pavie. Perse renovated the estate upon the acquisition and again in 2013. Pavie, along with Angélus, was elevated to the premier grand cru classé A tier in 2012, joining Cheval Blanc and Ausone.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Pavie is recognized for its opulent style of Saint-Émilion, adored by the likes of Robert Parker but criticized by many palates that favor restraint. Parker and Jancis Robinson famously sparred over the 2003 vintage, which Robinson likened to Port or a late-harvest Zinfandel. Pavie’s style is achieved through minuscule yields and late harvesting—it is one of the last to pick in the region. Perse also aims to achieve completely organic viticulture. Berries are sorted optically, after which they enjoy a cold maceration that can go on for more than a week before the onset of fermentation in oak vats. Saignée is often employed to further amplify concentration. The wine is transferred to barrel, 70 to 100% new, for malolactic fermentation, after which it ages for 18 to 32 months before bottling.

Château Pavie, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Grand vin. 60% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon (2015 vintage). Fermented in oak vats. Aged for 18 to 32 months in 70 to 100% new barrels.
- 2016 - $1,100 PSH
- 2014 - $595 PSH
- 2012 - $750 PSH
- 2010 - $1,050 PSH
- 2005 - $1,125 PSH
- 2000 - $1,200 PSH
- 1998 - $1,375 PSH
- 1990 - $1,100 PSH
- 1985 - $995 PSH
- 1964 - $975 PSH
- 1955 - $995 PSH
- 1945 - $4,550 PSH

Arômes de Pavie, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Second wine. Assembled from young vine lots and declassified barrels. Inaugural vintage 2005.

72
Q

Giacomo Conterno

A

Summary: After joining the estate that was founded by Giovanni’s father, Giacomo (who passed away in 1934), Giovanni began his career with a vision to make Barolo with exceptional aging potential. In the 1920’s he achieved acclaim with his first bottling of Monfortino, a wine that lived up to his vision and was made with what today is considered traditional techniques, though at the time were avant garde. He prolonged the maceration period and aged the wine in large, old wooden botti. The estate made wine exclusively with purchased fruit until they acquired the Francia vineyard in 1974. From 1978, this vineyard has supplied both the Monfortino and the Cascina Francia bottlings. For the second time ever, in 2008, the estate purchased new vineyard—the Ceretta cru, also in Serralunga d’Alba. Giovanni passed away in 2003 and the estate is operated by his son, Roberto, who continues the tradition of making superb, powerful, long-lived wines. In 2018 Roberto purchased the historical estate Nervi in the northern appellation of Gattinara, also know as Piemonte Alto. Nervi was established in 1906 and adds 28 ha of Nebbiolo to their overall holdings, which will be continued to be made by the same winemaker for Nervi since 1983, with the assistance of Roberto’s son Gabriele.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Considered the father of the classic Barolo style: grapes have extended maceration periods and are aged in large, old Slavonian oak botti. The Monfortino bottling sees warmer fermentations, longer macerations, and longer ageing than Cascina Francia. Wines are organic.

Barolo Monfortino: Inaugural vintage 1920.
1920-1974: A blend of sites
1978-2014: 100% Francia
2015-Onward: A Blend of Francia, Ceretta, and Arione
- 2015 - $2,450 EMP
- 2013 - $1,150 PSH
- 2010 - $1,750 EMP
- 2008 - $1,675 EMP
- 2006 - $1,455 EMP
- 2005 - $1,395 EMP
- 2002 - $2,510 EMP
- 1978 - $7,500 EMP
- 1967 - $4,500 EMP
- 1961 - $3,065 EMP
- 1958 - $4,100 EMP
- 1955 - $3,190 EMP
- 1952 - $3,800 EMP
- 1947 - $5,525 EMP
- 1945 - $4,200 EMP
- 1937 - $5,565 EMP

Barolo Cascina Francia: Inaugural vintage 1978.
- 2018 - $675 PSH, $795 EMP
- 2017 - $550 PSH, $760 EMP
- 2015 - $445 PSH
- 2012 - $620 EMP
- 2011 - $620 EMP
- 1998 - $900 PSH

Barolo Arione: Inaugural vintage 2015.
- 2018 - $665 PSH

Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia

Barolo Ceretta
- 2018 - $665 PSH
- 2017 - $765 EMP
- 2012 - $575 EMP
- 2011 - $630 EMP

73
Q

Bartolo Mascarello

A

Summary: A devout traditionalist, Bartolo Mascarello considered himself one of the self-proclaimed “last Mohicans of the old guard” in Barolo (along with Cappellano and Rinaldi). His ideals were centered upon the principle that, despite having vineyards in some of the best crus of Barolo, the most classic and complete Barolo was a blend of various sites. Today, the estate is run by the late Bartolo’s daughter, Maria Teresa. Her approach, like her father’s, is to honor traditional, historical styles of Barolo while using ripe fruit from low yielding vines.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: A staunch traditionalist, Bartolo Mascarello ferments with indigenous yeasts in concrete vat without the aid of temperature control. The old technique of “cappello sommerso” is used, where the cap of seeds and skins is held within the fermenting wine instead of punched down. Wines are aged in old, large botti, including some made from chestnut.

Barolo
- 2018 - $450 E47, $390 PSH
- 2017 - $530 EMP, $390 PSH
- 2015 - $415 EMP, $500 PSH
- 2001 - $1,200 E47
- 1989 - $3,800 E47 Magnum
- 1971 - $9,750 FL
- 1961 - $10,000 FL

Barolo Riserva
- 1964 - $10,500 FL

Barbera d’Alba
- 2020 - $150 EMP

Dolcetto d’Alba
- 2020 - $95
- 2021 - $95

74
Q

Bruno Giacosa

A

Summary: Known for producing excellent renditions of both Barolo and Barbaresco, Bruno Giacosa is considered a legendary winemaker in Piemonte. Originally, he made his reputation by sourcing excellent fruit throughout Barolo and Barbaresco. It wasn’t until 1982 that he even purchased his own vineyard. Prior to this, he was best known for his single vineyard Barbaresco’s, all made from fruit sourced from Santo Stefano, Montefico, Rio Sordo, Albesani, Asili, and San Cristoforo. With the rise in estate bottling in the 1980’s, Giacosa was faced with the prospect of losing his cherished sources, so purchased his own vineyards in Rabajà and Asili. The methods were the same for his Barolo offerings—made exclusively from sourced fruit until 1982, when he purchased the Falletto vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba. He produces two bottlings from this vineyard, the Falletto and the riserva bottling, Rocche del Falletto. “Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa” appears on labels for wines that are made from purchased grapes.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Considered a traditionalist, Giacosa has a 2-3 week maceration of Nebbiolo in temperature controlled stainless steel, followed by 3-4 years ageing in French Oak botti.

Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Neive: Inaugural vintage 1964.
- 2011 - $350 PSH, $475 EMP
- 2009 - $515 EMP
- 2004 - $550 PSH
- 1998 (Riserva) - $1,025 PSH

Barbaresco Asili
- 2015 - $415 EMP
- 2011 (Riserva) - $875 EMP
- 2012 - $295 PSH, $480 EMP
- 2009 - $675 EMP
- 2005 - $385 PSH

Barbaresco Rabaja
- 2014 - $510 EMP
- 2013 - $350 PSH

Barolo Falletto
- 2017 - $420 PSH
- 2012 - $420 PSH
- 2009 - $520 EMP
- 2008 - $385 PSH
- 2001 - $600 PSH

Barolo Rocche del Falleto Riserva
- 2009 - $445 PSH, $525 EMP
- 2008 - $525 PSH
- 2005 - $540 PSH

75
Q

Giuseppe Mascarello

A

Summary: Mascarello attributes its high quality to techniques used in the vineyard, including green harvesting, reducing yields, and giving meticulous care to discard any imperfect berries & bunches. While they are considered traditional in their winemaking approach, they do use the aid of modern technology, including a prototype fermenter, which reproduces a long fermentation in a controlled manner. They have owned land in the Monprivato vineyard, today a near-monopole since the early 20th Century.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Considered very traditional in their winemaking, the Guiseppe Mascarello estate employs long maceration and fermentations as well as aging in large, Slavonian oak botti for just over 3 years. They bottle with no fining or filtration.

Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca’ d’Morissio
- 1997 - $1,488 E47
- 1996 - $1,388 E47, $1,400 E47

Barolo Monprivato
- 2016 - $535 E47
- 2015 - $510 E47, $465 PSH
- 2014 - $400 E47
- 2013 - $400 E47
- 2012 - $390 E47
- 2011 - $390 E47

Barolo Santo Stefano
- 2012 - $265 PSH
- 2011 - $265 PSH

Barolo Villero
Barbera Codamonte
Dolcetto Bricco

76
Q

Gaja

A

Summary: Angelo Gaja is an iconic figure in Piemonte. He is credited for his innovative thinking, both in the vineyard and cellar. He was responsible for bringing the practice of barrique ageing to Barbaresco in the 1970’s, and also planting the region’s first Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc of the 20th century. He is also considered a pioneer of single vineyard wines, and consequently, his wines are known for resonating with terrior and opulence.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Gaja was the first to bring the practice of barrique ageing to Piemonte, in 1975. His top red wines spend one year ageing in barrique, following by an additional year in large oak barrel. Wines are fermented in stainless steel.

Barbaresco
- 2019 - $750 PSH
- 2018 - $575 PSH
- 2017 - $550 PSH

Barbaresco Costa Russi
- 2010 - $850 PSH
- 1995 - $625 PSH
- 1993 - $525 PSH
- 1982 - $650 PSH

Barbaresco Sori Tildin
- 2010 - $915 PSH
- 1979 - $800 PSH

Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo
- 2001 - $950 PSH
- 2000 - $1,700 PSH

Barolo Sperss
- 2018 - $825 E47, $900 PSH
- 2013 - $465 PSH
- 2000 - $590 PSH
- 1988 - $750 PSH

Cabernet Darmagi
Chardonnay Gaia y Rey
- 2018 - $850 E47

77
Q

Vietti

A

Summary: Vietti is one of the pioneers in single-vineyard bottlings in Barolo, selecting fruit from specific vineyards and making selective site wines as early as the 1950s. In the late 1960s, Alfredo Currado, husband of Luciana Vietti, spent a lot of time researching and rediscovering the nearly lost Arneis grape variety. He is credited as the “father of Arneis.” The brand’s style of winemaking varies from wine to wine—some are very traditional while others have more modern influences. Vietti’s labels have been adorned by local artists’ works since 1974.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Depending on the wine, vinification techniques may veer more traditional or more modern. The Barolo Lazzarito is considered their most modern in style, and is fermented in stainless steel and aged in French Barrique. The Barolo Rocche, on the other hand, sees a slow and long fermentation followed by ageing for 31 months in Slavonian oak botti.

Barolo Ravera
- 2018 - $435 PSH
- 2015 - $395 PSH, $820 FL
- 2014 - $820 FL

Barolo Riserva Villero
- 2006 (Riserva) - $600 PSH

Barolo Brunate
- 2017 - $945 FL
- 2015 - $990 FL

Barolo Lazzarito
- 2018 - $460 PSH
- 2015 - $395 PSH, $820 FL
- 2014 - $840 FL
- 2013 - $945 FL
- 2012 - $840 FL

Barolo Rocche
- 2018 - $460 PSH
- 2017 - $840 PSH
- 2015 - $1,200 PSH

Barolo Castiglione
- 2018 - $110 PSH
- 2015 - $330 FL

Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne
Roero Arneis

78
Q

Giuseppe Rinaldi

A

Summary: Giuseppe “Beppe” Rinaldi is currently the fifth generation to run his family’s estate, taking over in 1992 following the passing of his father, Battista. He is a devout traditionalist who believes in making age worthy Barolo’s that require a lot of time to soften. In addition to his traditional fermentation practices of manual punchdowns and long, slow, macerations, he also believes that classic Barolo is a blend of various sites. Thus, despite having vineyards in some of Barolo’s most highly regarded crus, he does not make any single vineyard bottlings. The vineyards are farmed organically.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Winemaking is very traditional. Wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts in ancient tini, tall upright oak vats, without temperature control and punchdowns are carried out by hand. Wines are aged in old botti for around 3 ½ years.

Barolo Brunate-Le Coste
- 2012 - $495 PSH
- 2009 - $420 PSH
- 2007 - $360 PSH
- 2005 - $355 PSH
- 2003 - $565 EMP
- 2001 - $440 PSH
- 1994 - $480 PSH, $640 POH

Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo-Ravera
- $504 Wine-searcher Average

Barolo
- 1967 - $2,450 EMP

Freisa

79
Q

Biondi Santi

A

Summary: Biondi Santi is widely considered the “original” creator of Brunello: The first recorded mention of a Brunello was Clemente Santi’s award-winning “select red wine (Brunello) of 1865” from his family’s Greppo estate in Montalcino at a local fair in 1867. The family has produced this wine continuously ever since, and bottles of 1888 Riservas still exist in the family cellars.

Clemente’s daughter married Jacopo Biondi, and it was this couple’s son, Ferruccio, who inherited the estate and joined both last names on the wines’ labels. At a time when both oidium and phylloxera threatened the local vineyards, and turning a quick profit was in vogue, Ferruccio steadfastly focused instead on extended aging of 100% Sangiovese. Ferruccio was succeeded by his son, Tancredi, and Tancredi by his son, Franco.

As Brunello became popular and much more widely produced in the second half of the 20th century, with many producers pushing for shorter aging in smaller oak barrels or the addition of international grapes to the wines, Franco Biondi-Santi remained a staunch advocate of the “traditional” style of Brunello his family had crafted for over 100 years. Franco Biondi-Santi passed away in 2013 at the age of 91. His son and daughter, Jacopo and Alessandra, now helm the estate.

Brief Description of Style / Vinification Techniques: Grapes are de-stemmed and crushed before temperature-controlled fermentation in large concrete tanks lasting 15-18 days with twice daily pump-overs. Wines are racked, then malolactic fermentation is assisted in tank. In April following harvest, wines are transferred to Slavonian oak casks for aging as outlined above.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: from Greppo vines at least 25 years old; made only in exceptional vintages; aged for 36 months in Slavonian oak casks
- 2015 - $1,850 EMP
- 2012 - $1,690 EMP
- 2011 - $1,450 EMP
- 2001 - $1,375 PSH
- 1999 - $1,800 PSH
- 1998 - $975 PSH
- 1997 - $1,900 PSH
- 1995 - $2,100 PSH
- 1990 - $3,675 PSH
- 1985 - $2,300 PSH
- 1983 - $1,950 PSH
- 1982 - $5,100 PSH
- 1975 - $3,475 PSH
- 1969 - $1,595 EMP

Brunello di Montalcino Annata: from Greppo vines 10-25 years old; aged for 36 months in Slavonian oak casks
- 2016 - $520 E47, $690 EMP
- 2013 - $670 E47
- 2011 - $685 E47
- 2009 - $695 E47, $610 EMP

Rosso di Montalcino Fascia Rossa: a.k.a. “Red Stripe” made in years when the estate deems the quality of fruit inadequate for labeling as Brunello; aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak casks

Rosso di Montalcino: a.k.a. “White Label”: from 5- to 10-year-old vines; aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak casks
- 2019 - $250 PSH

80
Q

Case Basse (Soldera)

A

Summary: Gianfranco Soldera purchased the abandoned land that would become Case Basse from sharecroppers in 1972. He and his wife, Graziella, set out to focus on sustainable agriculture—organic farming and never any pesticides or herbicides—throughout the entire 23 hectares of the estate. To develop a total ecosystem surrounding the vineyards, Graziella also created a two-hectare botanical park including an artificial lake, bird nests and over 1,000 rose varieties. Gianfranco is known as a staunch advocate for 100% Sangiovese in Brunello, and the estate grows Sangiovese exclusively. In 2013, Soldera withdrew from the local Consorzio and was in the news for having lost over 60,000 liters of wine after a disgruntled former employer broke into the cellars and drained multiple casks of wine.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Gianfranco strives for maximum ripeness through short pruning, green harvesting, grape thinning and leaf stripping. Grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts in large, Slavonian oak casks. Maceration lasts 14-25 days with frequent pumping over. Fermentation vats are not temperature-controlled, and the fermenting wines are monitored by frequent tasting and microbiological testing by the University of Florence. Wines are aged in botti for five years, then bottled unfiltered.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Inaugural vintage 1983, but not made with consistency until 1990. As of the 2000 vintage all Brunello will be released as Riserva.
- 2006 - $2,000 EMP
- 2004 - $2,200 EMP
- 2002 - $2,150 EMP

Brunello di Montalcino: Inaugural vintage 1977.
- 2017 - $1,550 PSH
- 2013 - $1,225 PSH
- 2012 - $1,175 PSH
- 2011 - $1,355 POH
- 2009 - $950 PSH, $1,195 PSH
- 2008 - $950 PSH, $1,225 PSH

Intistieti: from younger vines or wines that do not meet Soldera’s standards for Brunello; spends four years (instead of five) in botti. Not necessarily from just the Intistieti vineyard and may also be sourced from the Casse Basse site.
Pegasos: de-classified Brunello; only made so far from 2005 vintage
IGT Toscana - all wines from 2006 onward as Gianfranco left the appellation

81
Q

Vega Sicilia

A

Summary: Don Eloy Lecanda Chaves founded Vega Sicilia in 1864. After a visit to Bordeaux, he returned to Ribera del Duero with cuttings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Malbec, which he planted next to the local Tempranillo. He was surprised to find that the wine made from the Tempranillo grape was superior. Tempranillo’s fame was sparked soon after, in the early 1900s. Today, Vega Sicilia’s vineyards are 80% Tempranillo, the remaining percentage planted to a few French varieties, with some vines over 100 years old. Most recently purchased by the Alvarez family in 1982, the bodega has had just five owners since its inception.

Vega Sicilia is most famous for its flagship wine, Único, which undergoes extended aging, sometimes more than 10 years, and historically was not produced every year. The wines have become increasingly difficult to acquire, and membership with the winery is as coveted as the wines themselves.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: All fruit for Vega Sicilia wines is estate grown. The Tempranillo vines, making up 80% of the vineyard, are trained en vaso. Cabernet Sauvignon is the only grape grown en espalier. The estate practices green harvesting in the vineyard, ensuring lower yields and more concentrated fruit, and typically replants after vines reach 65 years of age. Vega Sicilia wines have remained elegant and balanced even as other producers have moved toward more power and new oak. Traditional techniques such as extended maceration and lengthy aging are employed in the cellar, and the winery’s one more modern attribute is its use of Bordeaux varietals in its wines.

Único: At least 80% Tempranillo, the rest a blend of Bordeaux varietals, from low-yielding, 60- to 65-year-old vines. The wine is aged for at least 10 years in barrel and bottle. Before 2010, Único was fermented in 40,000-liter vats, so it was only made if there was a sufficient quantity of quality grapes. Vega Sicilia now has numerous 8,000-liter wooden vats, so the wine will likely be released every year moving forward.
- 2012 - $1,100 E47
- 2011 - $1,050 E47
- 2010 - $1,100 E47
- 2005 - $1,280 E47
- 1991 - $1,450 E47
- 1989 - $2,200 EMP
- 1987 - $1,695 E47
- 1985 - $1,485 EMP
- 1973 - $1,975 EMP
- 1965 - $5,400 EMP
- 1953 - $7,995 EMP
- 1941 - $6,555 EMP
- 1939 - $6,555 EMP

Valbuena 5°: Primarily Tempranillo, with some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. A younger wine released in every vintage, with grapes from 25- to 35-year-old vines. Fermented in stainless steel and aged for three years in oak followed by two in bottle.
- 2017 - $450 E47
- 2016 - $425 E47
- 2015 - $420 E47
- 2014 - $425 E47
- 2013 - $400 E47

82
Q

Dominio de Pingus

A

Summary: Danish winemaker Peter Sisseck founded Pingus in 1995. Prior to his time in Ribera del Duero, Sisseck was living in Bordeaux and working for local vignerons there. He came to Ribera del Duero in 1993 to manage a new project, Hacienda Monasterio, and was compelled by the old vines he saw growing in the area. Sisseck released his first vintage in 1995, giving the winery the name “Pingus,” his childhood nickname. The wines first began to attract attention at the March 1996 en primeur tastings in Bordeaux. Since then, Pingus has become an iconic wine, coveted around the world.

Sisseck has also created a separate brand called Ψ PSI, a cooperative project that works with smaller growers of old vine Tempranillo. His aim is to improve the health of Ribera’s vineyards and expand the region’s economic success to more growers while producing a modestly priced wine. Ψ PSI is primarily Tempranillo and is made employing very few modern techniques. It’s aged in oak casks and cement tanks, with almost no new wood

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Sisseck has used solely biodynamic viticulture practices since 2001. His old vines produce very low yields, usually under one ton per acre. The fruit is destemmed prior to fermentation in large wooden vats, where it is left mostly alone. The wines undergo extended maceration, followed by aging in a combination of new and used French barrique. Some stainless steel is used as well. The wine is not fined nor filtered.

Pingus: 100% Tempranillo. Aged in a mix of old and new barrique for 18 months. Inaugural vintage 1995.
- 2020 - $2,500 E47
- 2019 - $2,450 E47
- 2016 - $1,850 PSH
- 2015 - $1,675 PSH
- 2010 - $2,100 PSH
- 2008 - $1,900 PSH
- 2007 - $2,100 PSH
- 2006 - $3,620 EMP
- 2001 - $2,780 EMP
- 2000 - $2,260 EMP
- 1998 - $2,570 EMP

Flor de Pingus: 100% Tempranillo. Aged in a mix of old and new barrique for about 14 months. Inaugural vintage 1996.
- 2020 - $250 E47

Amelia: 100% Tempranillo from over 100-year-old vines. Single barrel cuvée aged 18 months in one Darnajou barrique. Inaugural vintage 2003.
- 2005 - $1,650 EMP

83
Q

Ridge Vineyards

A

Summary: The current Ridge Monte Bello Estate lies at 2,300 ft. elevation, some 15 miles from the Pacific Ocean, and comprises four separate parcels: Perrone, Torre, Klein, and Rousten. The original “Monte Bello Winery” was founded by Osea Perrone, a San Francisco doctor who purchased his land along Santa Cruz Mountains’ Monte Bello Ridge in 1885, and produced his first vintage in 1892. Pierre Klein, John Torre, and Charles Rousten acquired neighboring ranches in 1888, 1890, and 1903, respectively. Each of them produced wine during the early years of the 20th century, but the vineyards were mostly abandoned during the Prohibition era. In the 1940s, William Short purchased the Torre property, and in 1949 planted Monte Bello’s first Cabernet Sauvignon vines–four acres of the original 1949 old vines survive today. Short sold his fruit to the now-defunct Gemello Winery in Mountain View, and was bought out by three Stanford scientists in 1959. In 1962, they formed a partnership as Ridge Vineyards, and released their first commercial vintage of Monte Bello Cabernet and Chardonnay with the help of winemaker Dave Bennion. By 1968 Ridge had acquired the Perrone Ranch and its 19th-century stone winery. In 1969 the partners hired winemaker Paul Draper, who would bring international recognition to Ridge’s wines over the next four decades. Today, Ridge has long-term lease agreements with the current owners of the Klein (renamed “Jimsomare”) and Rousten parcels.

Ridge’s most famous, iconic bottling is the Monte Bello, a graceful and age-worthy Cabernet-based blend, but the producer is really a Zinfandel house. In 1991 Ridge purchased the Lytton Springs Winery and vineyards in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley AVA, and today produces a number of vineyard-designate Zinfandel wines, plus a range of other whites and reds. Paul Draper remains as CEO and presides over winemaking, but separate winemakers have assumed most day-to-day responsibilities at both the original Monte Bello Estate and the Lytton Springs property. In 1986, Ridge was purchased by a Japanese pharmaceutical tycoon. The estate’s vineyards, leased and owned, are farmed sustainably; almost 200 acres are certified as organically farmed.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Grapes for Ridge’s Monte Bello red are typically harvested at under 25° Brix, and are fermented with ambient yeasts. The wines undergo a short maceration and age for 18 months in 96% American oak and 4% French oak–all new.

Monte Bello: 1962
- 2019 - $540 PSH
- 2017 - $500 POH
- 2016 - $510 PSH, $535 POH
- 2015 - $470 PSH
- 2014 - $450 PSH
- 2009 - $995 EMP
- 2004 - $500 PSH
- 2001 - $715 PSH
- 2000 - $800 PSH
- 1997 - $1,050 PSH
- 1990 - $800 PSH
- 1984 - $1,000 PSH
- 1977 - $1,111 E47

Monte Bello (Chardonnay): 1962 (vintages from 1985-1998 were not produced under this designation)
- 2019 - $120 POH

Geyserville (Zinfandel-based blend): 1966
Lytton Springs Zinfandel: 1975
York Creek (Napa Valley AVA) Zinfandel: 1975
Jimsomare Cabernet Sauvignon: 1978 (discontinued after the 1997 vintage)

Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: 2008 (previously released as “Santa Cruz Mountains”)
- 2020 - $200 PSH
- 2019 - $140 PSH
- 2016 - $155 EMP

Klein Cabernet Sauvignon: 2010

83
Q

Ridge Vineyards

A

Summary: The current Ridge Monte Bello Estate lies at 2,300 ft. elevation, some 15 miles from the Pacific Ocean, and comprises four separate parcels: Perrone, Torre, Klein, and Rousten. The original “Monte Bello Winery” was founded by Osea Perrone, a San Francisco doctor who purchased his land along Santa Cruz Mountains’ Monte Bello Ridge in 1885, and produced his first vintage in 1892. Pierre Klein, John Torre, and Charles Rousten acquired neighboring ranches in 1888, 1890, and 1903, respectively. Each of them produced wine during the early years of the 20th century, but the vineyards were mostly abandoned during the Prohibition era. In the 1940s, William Short purchased the Torre property, and in 1949 planted Monte Bello’s first Cabernet Sauvignon vines–four acres of the original 1949 old vines survive today. Short sold his fruit to the now-defunct Gemello Winery in Mountain View, and was bought out by three Stanford scientists in 1959. In 1962, they formed a partnership as Ridge Vineyards, and released their first commercial vintage of Monte Bello Cabernet and Chardonnay with the help of winemaker Dave Bennion. By 1968 Ridge had acquired the Perrone Ranch and its 19th-century stone winery. In 1969 the partners hired winemaker Paul Draper, who would bring international recognition to Ridge’s wines over the next four decades. Today, Ridge has long-term lease agreements with the current owners of the Klein (renamed “Jimsomare”) and Rousten parcels.

Ridge’s most famous, iconic bottling is the Monte Bello, a graceful and age-worthy Cabernet-based blend, but the producer is really a Zinfandel house. In 1991 Ridge purchased the Lytton Springs Winery and vineyards in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley AVA, and today produces a number of vineyard-designate Zinfandel wines, plus a range of other whites and reds. Paul Draper remains as CEO and presides over winemaking, but separate winemakers have assumed most day-to-day responsibilities at both the original Monte Bello Estate and the Lytton Springs property. In 1986, Ridge was purchased by a Japanese pharmaceutical tycoon. The estate’s vineyards, leased and owned, are farmed sustainably; almost 200 acres are certified as organically farmed.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Grapes for Ridge’s Monte Bello red are typically harvested at under 25° Brix, and are fermented with ambient yeasts. The wines undergo a short maceration and age for 18 months in 96% American oak and 4% French oak–all new.

Monte Bello: 1962
- 2019 - $540 PSH
- 2017 - $500 POH
- 2016 - $510 PSH, $535 POH
- 2015 - $470 PSH
- 2014 - $450 PSH
- 2009 - $995 EMP
- 2004 - $500 PSH
- 2001 - $715 PSH
- 2000 - $800 PSH
- 1997 - $1,050 PSH
- 1990 - $800 PSH
- 1984 - $1,000 PSH
- 1977 - $1,111 E47

Monte Bello (Chardonnay): 1962 (vintages from 1985-1998 were not produced under this designation)
- 2019 - $120 POH

Geyserville (Zinfandel-based blend): 1966
Lytton Springs Zinfandel: 1975
York Creek (Napa Valley AVA) Zinfandel: 1975
Jimsomare Cabernet Sauvignon: 1978 (discontinued after the 1997 vintage)

Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: 2008 (previously released as “Santa Cruz Mountains”)
- 2020 - $200 PSH
- 2019 - $140 PSH
- 2016 - $155 EMP

Klein Cabernet Sauvignon: 2010

84
Q

Corison

A

Summary: As one of Napa Valley’s first female winemakers, Cathy Corison spent a decade making wines for Chappellet, and produced the first vintage of Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon before launching her own label in 1987. She purchased her valley floor estate property–the 8-acre Kronos Vineyard–in 1995, and built her winery on the site in 1999. The vineyard was originally planted with Petite Sirah in 1971, but was grafted to Clone 7 Cabernet Sauvignon later that decade. Before Corison’s purchase, the fruit landed in Mondavi’s Reserve wines. Kronos’ low-yielding, old vines are widely spaced (8’ x 10’), dry-farmed, and grafted onto St. George rootstock. The organically farmed vineyard is the source of Corison’s top Cabernet bottling, but she also makes a second Cabernet with purchased Rutherford and St. Helena fruit (Hayne, Morisoli, and Zuntz Vineyards), and a dry Anderson Valley Gewürztraminer. Long a champion for moderate alcohol levels and elegance in Cabernet Sauvignon, Cathy Corison’s wines were largely out-of-step with styles popularized in the 1990s, but she is resurgent: as the 2011 San Francisco Chronicle Winemaker of the Year, Cathy has benefitted from a pendulum swing in stylistic preferences amongst the trade, and is widely respected as one of the top traditional winemakers in Napa Valley. She considers her Kronos Vineyard Cabernet to be a “30- to 40-year wine.”

Style / Vinification Techniques: Cabernet is harvested at 24° Brix or less, and is vinified with both ambient and inoculated yeasts. Aging occurs in oak barrels selected from various French coopers; 50% is new wood. The wines age in wood for 1-2 years, and in bottle for an additional year prior to release (2 years for the Kronos Cabernet). Corison’s Cabernet wines rarely surpass 13.5-14% in alcohol.

Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (100%): 1987
- 2018 - $230 POH, $275 EMP
- 2016 - $220 PSH
- 2015 - $250 E47
- 2010 - $820 FL
- 2009 - $865 FL
- 2005 - $425 PSH
- 2004 - $1,070 FL
- 2003 - $1,150 FL
- 2002 - $1,150 FL
- 2001 - $425 PSH, $1,230 FL
- 1998 - $1,275 FL
- 1977 - $1,315 FL

Kronos Cabernet Sauvignon (100%): 1996
- 2013 - $365 PSH
- 2000 - $615 PSH
- 1997 - $650 PSH

85
Q

Dunn Vineyards

A

Summary: Former Caymus winemaker Randy Dunn and wife Lori purchased their estate property near Angwin on Howell Mountain in 1978, and harvested small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon in 1979 and 1980. In 1981, the winery produced its first official vintage of Howell Mountain Cabernet, at a time when only a handful of others had climbed the mountain to grow grapes. Over the years, Dunn has been an outspoken critic of rising alcohol levels in the valley, and his vineyard has remained a remote outpost, at least in style. Dunn was an instrumental figure in the development of the Howell Mountain AVA–defined by elevation, the AVA begins at 1,400 ft. above sea level, the fog line. Dunn’s vineyards reach 2,100 ft. in elevation. Today, Michael and Kristina Dunn, Randy’s children, are steadily assuming control of the family’s property.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Randy Dunn produces some of Napa’s most rugged and tannic wines, requiring years to soften. The Cabernet undergoes whole-cluster fermentation, and spends around 30 months in barrel prior to release. Dunn has been rather open about alcohol adjustment, and employs reverse osmosis to ensure that his wines remain under 14% abv.

Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (wax seal): 100% estate Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2018 - $380 PSH
- 2017 - $360 E47
- 2010 - $640 EMP
- 2009 - $635 EMP
- 2008 - $650 EMP
- 2007 - $675 EMP
- 2005 - $685 EMP
- 2004 - $700 EMP
- 2003 - $685 EMP
- 2001 - $585 EMP
- 1990 - $1,035 EMP
- 1986 - $785 EMP

Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (foil seal): 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 85% estate fruit, 15% valley floor fruit
2018 - $225 PSH
2017 - $225 PSH
2016 - $225 E47

86
Q

Diamond Creek Vineyards

A

Summary: The late Al Brounstein founded Diamond Creek Vineyards on a Diamond Mountain site long considered too cool to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon. Brounstein nevertheless planted Cabernet, using “suitcase” Bordeaux clones rumored to have originated at Château Haut-Brion, and the winery claims to be the first Napa Valley estate to exclusively produce Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery released its first vintage in 1972, offering three single vineyard Cabernet wines: Volcanic Hill, Gravelly Meadow, and Red Rock Terrace. Harvests from a fourth vineyard, Lake, are usually blended into the Gravelly Meadow bottling, but in 1978 the winery bottled it separately, and Diamond Creek continues to produce Lake Vineyard Cabernet in exceptional vintages. The winery’s newest vineyard is named for its fruit–Petit Verdot–and a small percentage of PV grapes has been added to the three main bottlings since 1999. A few Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines are planted in each vineyard, amidst Cabernet Sauvignon vines in a “field blend” style. Diamond Creek’s vines, planted on St. George rootstock, survived Napa’s 1980s’ bout with phylloxera and are now nearly half a century old.

Diamond Creek was the first Napa Valley winery to crack the $100/bottle mark at retail, in 1987. “Boots” Brounstein (Al’s wife) passed away in 2019, and in 2020, the winery sold to Champagne Louis Roederer. Graham Wehmeier was appointed winemaker in 2020. Diamond Creek’s Cabernets are highly regarded, and typically bold, tannic, and age-worthy.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: All wines are aged in 100% new Nevers French oak barrels for up to 22 months. The winery moved to 100% new oak for the 2000 vintage; previously wines were aged in 50% new wood.

Gravelly Meadow
- 2019 - $590 PSH
- 2018 - $590 PSH
- 2017 - $540 PSH
- 2016 (100 points) - $495 PSH
- 2015 - $450 PSH
- 2014 - $425 PSH
- 2012 - $425 PSH

Red Rock Terrace
- 2019 - $590 PSH
- 2018 - $590 PSH
- 2017 - $540 PSH
- 2016 - $525 PSH
- 2015 - $450 PSH
- 2014 - $425 PSH
- 1980 - $1,540 FL

Volcanic Hill
- 2019 - $590 PSH
- 2018 - $590 PSH
- 2017 - $540 PSH
- 2016 - $525 PSH
- 2015 - $450 PSH
- 2014 - $425 PSH

Lake (1978, 1984, 1987, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2002, 2005, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2016)
- 2002 - $1,275 EMP
- 1996 - $1,380 EMP

87
Q

Heitz Cellars

A

Summary: After a nearly decade-long tenure under Beaulieu winemaker André Tchelistcheff in the 1950s, Joe Heitz (and wife Alice) purchased a small winery and eight acres of Grignolino vines in 1961, just south of St. Helena. The following year, he produced Heitz’s first official vintage: a Grignolino from the property, and Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines made with purchased fruit from Hanzell in Sonoma County. In 1964, the couple acquired Heitz Cellar’s current home on Taplin Road, a 19th-century stone winery and 160 surrounding acres of cattle pasture, and Joe turned his focus to Cabernet. Across the valley in Oakville’s western hills, Tom and Martha May purchased a 34-acre, young Cabernet vineyard–renamed “Martha’s”–in 1963, and sold their grapes to Heitz for inclusion in the winery’s Napa Valley Cabernet in 1965. Joe was impressed by its quality, and decided to bottle it separately in 1966–Heitz “Martha’s Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, the first single-vineyard designate wine produced in California, would quickly become one of the valley’s most important wines. Heitz continued to grow the business over the ensuing years, increasing the winery’s own vineyard holdings with sites like Trailside Vineyard (acquired in 1984) and Ink Grade (1989), and expanding the roster of offerings to include multiple Cabernet bottlings, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and a fortified wine labeled “Napa Valley Port.” The winery still produces Grignolino, in red and rosé versions, from that original eight-acre plot. In 2018, Heitz was sold to Gaylon Lawrence, Jr. in 2018. Carlton McCoy, MS, is President and CEO.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Heitz ferments in stainless steel, and prevents malolactic fermentation in all Cabernet wines. The Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet ages in large, old American oak casks for one year, and in 70-100% new Limousin French oak barriques (depending on vintage) for an additional 2.5 years prior to bottling. The Trailside Cabernet undergoes the same length of aging, but has always seen 100% new French oak. Historically, Heitz’s wines have been built for the long haul.

Martha’s Vineyard: Inaugural vintage 1966 (not produced between 1993-1995 due to replanting). - Oakville
- 2017 - $645 PSH
- 2016 - $630 PSH
- 2015 - $745 PSH
- 2014 - $745 PSH
- 2013 - $645 PSH
- 2012 - $525 PSH
- 2010 - $745 PSH
- 2009 - $525 PSH
- 2008 - $720 PSH
- 2007 - $950 PSH
- 2006 - $900 PSH
- 1998 - $820 PSH
- 1997 - $865 PSH
- 1996 - $860 PSH
- 1989 - $915 PSH
- 1982 - $1,025 PSH
- 1976 - $1,320 EMP

Bella Oaks Vineyard: inaugural vintage 1976 (produced through the 2007 vintage). - Rutherford
- 1984 - $875 EMP
- 1976 - $885 EMP

Trailside Vineyard: Inaugural vintage 1989. - Rutherford
- 2017 - $360 PSH
- 2016 - $330 PSH
- 2015 - $335 PSH
- 2014 - $450 PSH
- 2005 - $475 PSH
- 1993 - $345 PSH

Linda Falls Vineyard - Howell Mountain
- 2014 - $595 PSH

Napa Valley
- $2018 - $180 PSH

88
Q

Mayacamas Vineyards

A

Summary: Mayacamas’ stone winery was originally built in 1889 by a German immigrant and pickle salesman named John Fischer. The property changed hands several times, and fell into disuse during the Prohibition era, until it was rekindled and formally rechristened as Mayacamas Vineyards in 1941. Bob Travers and his wife purchased the winery in 1968. With his son Chris growing into the role of vineyard manager, Bob made every wine at Mayacamas through the 2012 vintage. In the spring of 2013, his family sold to Charles Banks and Jay Schottenstein. The Schottenstein family took over full ownership of the property in 2017. Consulting winemaker Andy Erickson joined the project in 2013, and Braiden Albrecht was named winemaker in 2018. Mayacamas has long been associated with unapologetically tannic, acid-driven and herbal styles of Cabernet Sauvignon, which frequently require years or decades to soften. As Bob Travers was immovable in his style and approach throughout the years, it remains to be seen whether the winery will venture in a new direction with the change in ownership.

The winery’s oldest vineyards, save for a small patch of 100+ year-old Zinfandel vines that do not produce a commercial crop, are comprised of Wente selection Chardonnay vines, grafted on St. George rootstock and planted in the early 1950s. The winery’s oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines date to the 1960s. The vineyards lie between 1,800 and 2,400 ft. in elevation, with the white varieties (Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) planted at the higher altitudes. All mature vines are dry-farmed. Mayacamas Vineyards sits on an ancient volcanic crater; Chris Travers credits the intensity of Mayacamas’ Cabernet tannins to the volcanic-derived soils on the property, and its acidity to heightened elevation and proximity to the San Pablo Bay. Much of the vineyard was replanted following the sale of the property in 2013.

Style / Vinification Techniques: During the Travers era, Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon was typically harvested at 23.5° Brix. Fermentation with Montrachet yeast occurred in cement tank. After 1-2 weeks of maceration the wines were pressed and moved to large, old American oak casks to undergo malolactic fermentation and 2 years of aging, followed by an additional year of aging in French oak barriques (approximately 15% new wood). The wines were then aged in bottle for two years prior to release–Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon has never been released before the fifth year after the harvest.

Cabernet Sauvignon (includes 10-15% total Merlot and Cabernet Franc) - Mount Veeder
2011 - $300 PSH, $315 POH
2005 - $440 POH
2004 - $410 POH
2003 - $410 POH
2001 - $605 POH
2000 - $605 POH
1999 - $450 PSH
1997 - $835 POH
1995 - $560 POH
1999 - $375 EMP
1994 - $470 EMP
1992 - $505 EMP
1990 - $495 EMP
1989 - $1,090 POH
1988 - $520 EMP
1987 - $570 EMP
1986 - $835 POH
1985 - $615 POH
1984 - $620 POH
1979 - $615 POH
1977 - $610 POH
1969 - $625 POH

Merlot (includes approximately 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Pinot Noir (Pinot Noir is no longer produced.)

Chardonnay (15% new French oak, no malolactic fermentation)
- 2014 - $110 PSH
- 2013 - $105 PSH
- 2009 - $175 PSH
- 2008 - $210 PSH
- 2007 - $210 PSH
- 2001 - $355 POH

Sauvignon Blanc (These vines were ripped out after the Charles Banks acquisition.)

89
Q

Chappellet

A

Summary: Donn and Molly Chappellet, pioneers of mountain viticulture in Napa Valley, purchased their estate on Pritchard Hill in 1967 and produced their first commercial vintage in 1969. The estate, with vineyards ranging from 1,000 ft. to nearly 1,800 ft. in elevation, rose to prominence as a mountain Cabernet producer with a succession of talented winemakers, including Philip Togni, Cathy Corison, and Tony Soter. The winery established Napa’s Pritchard Hill–a trademark that the Chappellet family owns–as a marquee location for Bordeaux varieties, and remains family-owned. Phillip Corallo-Titus assumed the role of winemaker with the 1990 vintage, and continues to guide the Chappellet style today. The “Pritchard Hill” Estate wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc varietal wines, are at the pinnacle of the winery’s production. A “Signature” varietal line is also produced from the family’s estate fruit, including a rare Napa Valley Chenin Blanc bottling. From 2012 forward, all of the estate vineyards are certified organic.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet is typically harvested at ripe Brix levels (26-29°), and aged for up to 2 years in 100% new French oak, sourced from a variety of coopers and forests.

Signature Cabernet Sauvignon: 1980
- 2019 - $155 PSH, $195 POH
- 2017 - $195 E47
- 1971 - $1,805 EMP

Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon: 1997
- 2019 - $655 PSH, $885 FL
- 2018 - $800 EMP

90
Q

Dominus Estate

A

Summary: Christian Moueix, president of Bordeaux négociant Jean-Pierre Moueix and owner of several Right Bank Bordeaux properties (including Trotanoy and La Fleur-Pétrus), formed a partnership with Robin Lail and Marcia Smith to purchase Napa’s historic Napanook Vineyard in 1982. The new estate, Dominus, released its first vintage of a Bordeaux-style, Cabernet-based blend in 1983. Moueix became the sole proprietor of the property in 1995, and in 1996 introduced a second wine, the Napanook blend. The estate is dry-farmed, and planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Tod Mostero, Director of Viticulture and Winemaking, has worked at the estate since 2007.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Dominus is an elegant wine, and rarely spends more than 1.5 years in barrel. Traditionally, the winery has used 40% new French oak for Dominus, and 20% new oak for Napanook. Dominus is released after 2 years.

Dominus (80-95% Cabernet) / 1983
- 2019 - $650 PSH
- 2018 - $675 PSH
- 2017 - $680 PSH
- 2016 - $645 E47
- 2015 - $825 PSH
- 2014 - $525 PSH, $920 E47
- 2013 - $1,485 PSH
- 2012 - $675 PSH
- 2011 - $530 PSH
- 2008 - $796 E47
- 2004 - $1,500 E47
- 2001 - $785 E47
- 1996 - $695 PSH
- 1994 - $1,415 EMP

Napanook (70-95% Cabernet) / 1996
- 2019 - $195

91
Q

Spottswoode Winery

A

Summary: Spottswoode’s name dates to 1910, when the family of Albert Spotts purchased a St. Helena grape-growing estate originally planted to vine in 1882, and renamed it in his honor. The vines survived Prohibition; Spottswoode sold grapes to Christian Bros. for sacramental winemaking during that era and to the St. Helena Wine Cooperative for decades afterward. In 1972, Dr. Jack and Mary Novak purchased the estate and replanted the vineyard the following year. In 1977, Jack Novak died. Mary, with the help of her children, completed Spottswoode’s first harvest after replanting, but sold all of the estate’s fruit. In 1982, the modern winery was founded, and produced its first vintage of Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Tony Soter (Chappellet, Etude) made the wines from the inaugural vintage through 1991, honing the estate’s trademark style of ripe, rich Cabernet–a true expression of the valley floor. The estate has practiced organic farming since 1985. Mary and children Beth Novak Milliken and Lindy Novak manage the estate today; Aron Weinkauf is winemaker.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is typically aged for 18-20 months in 60-70% new French oak.

Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: Approximately 90-100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Inaugural vintage 1982. - St. Helena
- 2019 - $495 PSH
- 2018 - $485 PSH
- 2016 - $450 PSH
- 1995 - $1,130 FL
- 1994 - $1,210 FL
- 1992 - $1,335 FL
- 1990 - 1,435 FL

Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Inaugural vintage 2002.
- 2007 - $550 EMP

Field Book Syrah: Sourced from Griffin’s Lair Vineyard. Inaugural vintage 2010.

92
Q

Philip Togni Vineyard

A

Summary: Former Chappellet and Cuvaison winemaker Philip Togni and his wife Birgitta purchased a 25-acre, 2,000 ft. elevation Spring Mountain estate in 1975, and planted vines in 1981. They released their first vintage, consisting of a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, in 1983. Togni studied under famed Bordeaux oenologist Émile Peynaud, and brought an Old World sensibility and austere style to his small Napa estate. Today, the winery produces three wines, solely from estate fruit: the Togni red, a Cabernet-based blend; the Tanbark Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, produced from the estate’s young vines; and a red dessert wine produced from the Black Hamburgh (Muscat of Hamburg?) grape, “Ca’ Togni.” Lisa Togni, daughter of Philip and Birgitta, is primed to assume control of the estate in her father’s advanced age. The style remains severe and unapologetic. Togni typically sells library selections, including a customary ten-years-on offering.

Vinification Techniques: The “main” wine is aged in 40% new Nevers French oak, and is typically bottled after two years and sold in its fourth year.

Philip Togni: 1983
- 2018 - $325 PSH
- 2017 - $300 PSH
- 2015 - $300 PSH
- 2014 - $300 PSH
- 2011 - $235 PSH, $130 POH
- 2009 - $225 PSH
- 2005 - $495 PSH
- 1996 - $420 PSH
- 1995 - $430 PSH
- 1991 - $750 PSH

Ca’ Togni: 1985 - Sweet wine
- $97 average wine-searcher

Tanbark Hill Cabernet Sauvignon
- 1998 - $270 PSH
- 1996 - $689 E47

93
Q

Eisele Vineyard

A

Summary: Eisele Vineyard, formerly Araujo Estate until 2016, was founded by Bart and Daphne Araujo in 1990, and has one of Napa Valley’s most prized and oldest vineyards at its core: the 38-acre Eisele Vineyard. At the base of Simmons Canyon in Calistoga, the vineyard was first planted with Zinfandel and Riesling grapevines in 1886; Cabernet was not introduced until 1964. Milt and Barbara Eisele–the vineyard’s namesakes–purchased the site in 1969, and sold its Cabernet fruit over the next two decades to a number of producers for coveted vineyard-designate wines, including Ridge (1971), Conn Creek (1974), and Joseph Phelps (1975-1991). After the Araujos purchased the site, the winery released its first vintage of Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon in 1991, and has been the exclusive producer of wines from the vineyard from 1992 forward. Today, Eisele Vineyard is organically and biodynamically farmed (and certified for both), and multiple varieties are cultivated: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc (Musqué), Petit Verdot, and Merlot. The original 1964 Cabernet vines were ripped up after the 1998 vintage, but some of the younger vines are “Old Eisele” selections–massale selections from the ‘64 vines. Other selections of Cabernet include cuttings from Bella Oaks Vineyard, Spottswoode, and “Young Eisele,” a selection from Doug Schafer’s vineyards in Stags Leap District–his original material came from Eisele. Approximately half of the vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon; the grape excels in the gravelly alluvial fan soils deposited by Simmons Creek, which cuts through the property. In 1999, the winery introduced a second wine, “Altagracia,” which is currently produced from both Eisele fruit and purchased St. Helena and Oakville grapes.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Araujo Eisele Cabernet Sauvignon is typically fermented in steel and concrete, and spends around 2 years in 100% new French oak. Preferred coopers are Darnajou and Sylvain. Macerations are lengthy–often lasting 45 days from cold-soaking through fermentation.

Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon: 1991
- 2013 - $1,000 PSH
- 2012 - $1,205 PSH
- 2011 - $1,100 PSH
- 2010 - $1,100 PSH
- 2007 - $600 PSH
- 1999 - $1,050 EMP
- 1998 - $890 EMP
- 1997 - $725 PSH
- 1996 - $650 PSH, $980 EMP
- 1995 - $800 PSH, $1,250 EMP
- 1994 - $810 PSH
- 1993 - $1,150 EMP

Araujo Altagracia: 1999
- 2019 - $325 PSH
- 2013 - $295 PSH
- 2012 - $315 PSH

94
Q

Harlan Estate

A

Summary: Located on the lower Mayacamas slopes west of Oakville, Harlan Estate was founded by H. William (Bill) Harlan in 1984, with his stated goal to create a Californian “First Growth.” 24 acres of hillside, terraced vineyards were planted in 1986 and 1987 (with the rest added in the 1990s), and the winery made small, non-commercial amounts of wine from its young vines in the late 1980s. The first official release was the 1990 vintage, introduced in 1996. The wine, a Cabernet-dominant blend, signaled the beginning of the cult era in Napa Valley, and has been handsomely rewarded by critics. The estate introduced a second wine, “The Maiden,” with the 1995 vintage. Winemaker Bob Levy has been with the estate since the beginning, but has now assumed more of an emeritus role, ceding the day-to-day winemaking to Cory Empting. In addition to his flagship Harlan Esate, Bill Harlan also owns Napa’s ultra-premium resort Meadowood, the Napa Valley Reserve, and two other wineries: Bond and Promontory. In 2013, release prices for Harlan Estate hovered around $800 a bottle.

Style / Vinification Techniques: No expense is spared, in the vineyards or winery, to produce one of Napa’s ripest, most polished, and most profound cult wines.

Harlan Estate: 1990 (1,800 cases)
- 2019 - $1,900 WS
- 2017 - $1,500 WS
- 2015 - $1,600 WS
- 2010 - $1,600 WS
- 2001 - $2,000 WS

The Maiden: 1995 (900 cases)
- 2019 - $500 WS
- 2017 - $450 WS
- 2015 - $481 WS
- 2010 - $345 WS
- 2001 - $500 WS

95
Q

Shafer Vineyards

A

Summary: In 1972 John Shafer purchased a 210-acre estate in Stags Leap District, and replanted its existing vineyards with Cabernet. With 1,000 cases in 1978, Shafer Vineyards was born. John’s son Doug took on the role of winemaker in 1983–the first vintage of the winery’s lauded Hillside Select Cabernet, then simply named “Reserve”–and was joined by Elias Fernandez as his assistant a year later. In 1994, Doug assumed greater control over the business and Fernandez was named head winemaker for the property; he received a 2002 “Winemaker of the Year” nod from Food & Wine. Shafer was an early pioneer for green practices in Napa Valley: Doug has been an advocate for sustainable farming practices and vineyard biodiversity since the late 1980s, and in 2004 the winery became the first in the US to make the switch to 100% solar power generation. Shafer wines have been routinely rewarded by Parker and other critics, including their “Relentless” Syrah that debuted in 1999, and the winery has honed a richly flavored and lushly textured style across their entire line.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Shafer’s flagship wine, Hillside Select Cabernet, ages for 32 months in 100% new French oak.

Hillside Select: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2,400 cases produced. 1983 as “Reserve,” and renamed the following year.
- 2018 - $810 PSH
- 2017 - $680 PSH
- 2014 - $650 PSH
- 2013 - $645 PSH
- 2011 - $575 PSH
- 1999 - $920 EMP
- 1994 - 950 E47

One Point Five: Cabernet-dominated blend. Inaugural vintage 2004
- 2019 - $150 PSH

96
Q

Shafer Vineyards

A

Summary: In 1972 John Shafer purchased a 210-acre estate in Stags Leap District, and replanted its existing vineyards with Cabernet. With 1,000 cases in 1978, Shafer Vineyards was born. John’s son Doug took on the role of winemaker in 1983–the first vintage of the winery’s lauded Hillside Select Cabernet, then simply named “Reserve”–and was joined by Elias Fernandez as his assistant a year later. In 1994, Doug assumed greater control over the business and Fernandez was named head winemaker for the property; he received a 2002 “Winemaker of the Year” nod from Food & Wine. Shafer was an early pioneer for green practices in Napa Valley: Doug has been an advocate for sustainable farming practices and vineyard biodiversity since the late 1980s, and in 2004 the winery became the first in the US to make the switch to 100% solar power generation. Shafer wines have been routinely rewarded by Parker and other critics, including their “Relentless” Syrah that debuted in 1999, and the winery has honed a richly flavored and lushly textured style across their entire line.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Shafer’s flagship wine, Hillside Select Cabernet, ages for 32 months in 100% new French oak.

Hillside Select: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2,400 cases produced. 1983 as “Reserve,” and renamed the following year.
- 2018 - $810 PSH
- 2017 - $680 PSH
- 2014 - $650 PSH
- 2013 - $645 PSH
- 2011 - $575 PSH
- 1999 - $920 EMP
- 1994 - 950 E47

One Point Five: Cabernet-dominated blend. Inaugural vintage 2004
- 2019 - $150 PSH

97
Q

Dalla Valle

A

Summary: Gustav and Naoko Dalla Valle purchased their tiny estate in the red rock-strewn hills of eastern Oakville AVA (400 ft. elevation) in 1982, and winemaker Joe Cafaro produced the estate’s first Cabernet Sauvignon for the 1986 vintage. Superstar winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett replaced Cafaro after the first few vintages. Gustav died in 1995, and Naoko promptly fired Peterson Barrett in favor of Mia Klein. In 2006 current winemaker Andy Erickson (with Michel Rolland as consultant) came on board. Dalla Valle’s signature wine, “Maya,” named after Naoko’s daugther, fetches prices on par with other cult superstars, and is produced from Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc from a 6-acre parcel on the property. A young vine selection, “Collina,” was added in 2007; a Sangiovese produced in the ’90s (“Pietre Rosse”) was phased out by 2001.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The drill here is low yields and meticulous attention to detail. New French oak usage hovers around 75-85% for Maya; the estate Cabernet will not see more than 60% new wood.

Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon: Inaugural vintage 1986.
Maya: Cabernet Sauvignon with up to 50% Cabernet Franc. Approximately 500 cases produced. Inaugural vintage 1988 (not prouced in 2003 or 04 due to replanting).
Collina Dalla Valle: Cabernet-based blend. Inaugural vintage 2007.

98
Q

Colgin Cellars

A

Summary: Ann Colgin and husband Joe Wender own Colgin Cellars, one of Napa’s top cult properties. From 1992 though 1999, Colgin produced a single Cabernet Sauvignon, utilizing fruit purchased from the 7-acre hillside Herb Lamb Vineyard on Howell Mountain’s lower slopes, to rave reviews from the press. In 1997, Colgin acquired the tiny Tychson Hill Vineyard just north of St. Helena, and introduced a Cabernet Sauvignon from the site in time for the 2000 vintage. In 1998, Colgin added a second property to the portfolio–Pritchard Hill’s IX Estate, with vineyards reaching 1,350 ft. in elevation–and completed construction of a winery on the site in 2002. In 2016, the Colgins sold a majority stake in the winery to Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton (LVMH).

Colgin has consistently attracted top personnel to the project: Helen Turley made the wines through the 1998 vintage, followed by Mark Aubert. Allison Tauziet is the current winemaker, with Alain Reynaud as consulting enologist. David Abreu is the vineyard manager.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Like other cult contemporaries, no expensive is spared in function (or form) at Cogin’s IX Estate winery. 100% new French oak. The wines are ripe, sculpted, and serious.

Tychson Hill Cabernet Sauvignon: Inaugural vintage 2000.
- 2015 - $1,200 PSH
- 2014 - $1,150 PSH
- 2010 - $1,100 PSH

IX Estate Red Wine (40-60% Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend): Inaugural vintage 2002.
- 2019 - $1,425 PSH
- 2016 - $1,200 PSH
- 2015 - $1,235 PSH
- 2014 - $1,200 PSH
- 2013 - $1,190 PSH
- 2012 - $1,115 PSH
- 2010 - $1,100 PSH
- 2004 - $945 PSH

IX Estate Syrah: Inaugural vintage 2002.
- 2019 - $725 PSH
- 2014 - $600 PSH
- 2013 - $585 PSH
- 2012 - $650 PSH
- 2009 - $575 PSH

Cariad (40-60% Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend): Inaugural vintage 2000.
- 2012 - $1,150 PSH
- 2010 - $1,080 PSH
- 2005 - $1,300 PSH

Herb Lamb Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon: Inaugural vintage (discontinued after the 2007 vintage).
- 1995 - $1,200 PSH

99
Q

Continuum Estate

A

Summary: Following the 2004 sale of Robert Mondavi Winery to Constellation Brands, son (and winemaker) Tim Mondavi sought another property with which he could continue his family’s legacy, and purchased a 172-acre estate high on Pritchard Hill. Neighboring Chappellet at 1,300-1,600 ft. elevation, Continuum Estate consists of organically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. First planted in 1991 and 1992, the Mondavi family added younger blocks after taking control of the property, but the extreme youth of the vines meant that it would be some years before Continuum could release a true estate wine. Continuum’s first three vintages, 2005-2007, were actually produced from To-Kalon Vineyard fruit–valley floor rather than mountain wines. In 2008, 70% of the wine was sourced from the estate’s own mountain fruit, and in 2012 Continuum’s flagship was finally a sole product of the estate’s red clay loam vineyard soils. As a nod to Pritchard Hill’s terroir, Cabernet Franc has continued to play a significant supporting role to Cabernet Sauvignon in the wines. In 2010, Mondavi added a second wine, “Novicium,” a product of vines that are too young for the top cuvée, and in 2013 completed an onsite winery. The winery is very much a family operation: Tim is joined by his sister Marcia and children Carissa, Carlo, and Dante in stewardship of the estate.

While making wines in the 1990s at Robert Mondavi, Tim may have struggled to consistently impress the critics of the day, but the young Continuum Estate has already been hailed as one of a handful of “Top Producers” of California Cabernet in Jon Bonné’s The New California Wine.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Continuum is a vintage-dependent changing blend of Bordeaux varieties, with yields typically under 2 tons per acre. Fermentation occurs in large French oak and concrete tanks. Macerations are lengthy; typically lasting between 30-50 days. The wines generally spend 18-20 months in French oak, and the amount of new oak has been reduced from 100% for the first three vintages to 70-80% in more recent years.

Continuum (60-75% Cabernet Sauvignon, plus Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot) Inaugural vintage 2005 (first vintage entirely estate vineyards is 2012).
- 2019 - $540 PSH
- 2018 - $500 PSH
- 2016 - $575 PSH
- 2015 - $500 PSH
- 2014 - $495 PSH
- 2010 - $940 PSH
- 2009 - $970 PSH
- 2008 - $990 PSH
- 2007 - $1,150 PSH
- 2006 - $600 PSH
- 2005 - $1,410 PSH

Novicium: Inaugural vintage 2010.
- $182 - average wine-searcher

100
Q

Chateau Montelena

A

Summary: Alfred Tubbs purchased 254 acres of land near Mount St. Helena in Napa Valley in 1882, planted vineyards, and constructed a grand “château” in the model of Bordeaux. In 1886, the winery produced its first harvest–50,000 cases–and the property, named “Chateau Montelena” after the mountain, quickly became one of Napa’s largest wine producers. It was shuttered during the Prohibition era, sold in 1958, and sold again ten years later, to Jim Barrett and partners. Barrett took sole control in 1972, and employed a young Mike Grgich to make the property’s first modern wines that same year, releasing their first Chardonnay. Montelena shot to stardom during the 1976 “Judgment of Paris” blind tasting; the winery’s 1973 Chardonnay placed first amongst a group of Grand Cru Burgundy wines and other Californian examples, a story recounted in the 2008 film Bottle Shock. Chardonnay put the winery on the map, but the estate’s Cabernet emerged as one of California’s best in the 1980s. Jim’s son, Bo, assumed the role of winemaker in 1982.

Montelena’s fortunes soured in 2004, when Wine Spectator published a story by James Laube incriminating the winery for systemic cork taint (similar accusations were leveled at BV Vineyard and Hanzell). Montelena, already aware of the problem, had begun to refurbish the winery a year earlier, replacing fermentation tanks and undertaking other hygienic measures. The winery has since recovered, and capitalized on interest generated by Bottle Shock. Jim Barrett died in 2013. The winery today produces Cabernet and Zinfandel from estate fruit, and sources Chardonnay, Cabernet, and a Potter Valley AVA Riesling.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The Montelena Estate Cabernet has traditionally been a restrained style of moderate alcohol (13.5-14.5%), harvested between 23-26° Brix. The wine is aged for 18-22 months in barrel.

Montelena Estate (95-100% Cabernet Sauvignon): Inaugural vintage 1978.
- 2013 - $305 PSH
- 2010 - $350 PSH
- 2009 - $355 PSH
- 2008 - $325 PSH
- 2007 - $385 PSH
- 2006 - $450 PSH
- 2005 - $375 PSH
- 2003 - $350 PSH, $290 PSH
- 2001 - $400 PSH
- 1999 - $420 PSH

Napa Valley (formerly Calistoga Cuvée)

101
Q

Vérité

A

Summary: Vérité, founded in 1998 by the late Jess Jackson, is one of the crown jewels in the Jackson Family Wines portfolio. Winemaker Pierre Seillan produces three wines each vintage, modeled on Bordeaux counterparts. “La Joie” is a Cabernet-based expression, inspired by Pauillac; “La Muse” and “Le Désir” are Merlot- and Cabernet Franc-based blends influenced by the styles of Pomerol and St-Émilion, respectively. The wines, following a run of stellar vintages and intense critical praise, are in the upper echelon for both quality and price in California. “La Joie” is currently the single most expensive Cabernet bottling produced from Sonoma County fruit.

La Joie (Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant)
- 2015 - $825 PSH
- 2014 - $725 PSH
- 2013 - $650 PSH
- 2012 - $700 PSH
- 2010 - $650 PSH
- 2009 - $700 PSH
- 2008 - $750 PSH
- 2007 - $775 PSH
- 2005 - $725 PSH

Le Désir (Cabernet Franc-dominant)
- 2015 - $825 PSH
- 2014 - $725 PSH
- 2013 - $650 PSH
- 2012 - $700 PSH
- 2010 - $650 PSH
- 2009 - $700 PSH
- 2008 - $675 PSH
- 2007 - $700 PSH
- 2005 - $725 PSH
- 2004 - $695 PSH

La Muse (Merlot-dominant)
- 2015 - $825 PSH
- 2014 - $725 PSH
- 2013 - $650 PSH
- 2012 - $700 PSH
- 2010 - $650 PSH
- 2009 - $700 PSH
- 2008 - $675 PSH
- 2007 - $700 PSH
- 2004 - $695 PSH

102
Q

Joseph Phelps

A

Summary: Joseph Phelps purchased a large cattle ranch in St. Helena’s Spring Valley in 1973, immediately planted vineyards, and began construction of a winery. His first vintage, including the first Insignia bottling, was the same year. Over the decades, Phelps has purchased a number of Napa Valley vineyards and negotiated long-term lease arrangements with others. The icon Insignia, a Bordeaux-style blend, receives regular attention from the press, and was named the Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator in 2002. Since 2004, Insignia has been estate bottled, reflecting the company’s desire to move to 100% estate production. Phelps has also embraced the concept of biodynamic agriculture. Today, Phelps produces a full lineup of varietal wines from two wineries: the original St. Helena property and a new facility, completed in 2007 near Freestone on the Sonoma Coast. The latter produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir exclusively.

Style / Vinification Techniques: Insignia and Backus Vineyard Cabernet are both ripe, polished wines. They typically undergo two years of aging in 100% new French oak.

Insignia: 1974
- 2018 - $600 PSH, $625 PSH
- 1985 - $875 EMP

Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon: 1975 (discontinued after the 1991 vintage)
- 1985 - $690 PSH

Backus Cabernet Sauvignon: 1977
- 2018 - $750 PSH

103
Q

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars

A

Summary: Warren Winiarski, a University of Chicago professor, purchased a 44-acre plot under the Stags Leap Palisades in 1970, and replanted its vineyards with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The plot adjoined Nathan Fay’s namesake vineyard, Winiarski’s favorite source for Cabernet. Winiarksi made the first vintage of Stag’s Leap Vineyard Cabernet in 1972 with André Tchelistcheff’s assistance, and the following year produced the legendary wine that would take top honors among reds in 1976’s “Judgment of Paris” blind tasting. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and neighbor Stags’ Leap Winery sued and countersued each other over the name “Stag’s Leap,” and in 1986 the case reached the California Supreme Court. In the decision both wineries kept their respective names, but placement of the apostrophe (before or after the “s”) was determined by the court. In the end, Winiarski and Carl Doumani, then-owner of Stags’ Leap, worked together to prevent the creation of the Stags Leap District AVA, unsuccessfully.

The winery continued to add properties to its portfolio: Winiarski purchased Nathan Fay’s vineyard in 1986, and in 1996 he bought the Arcadia Vineyard from Mike Grgich. BRV Vineyard in Oak Knoll was added in 2001. In 2007, Winiarski sold the winery and its vineyards (except Arcadia) to a partnership between Chateau Ste. Michelle and the Antinori family. Winiarski’s name no longer appears on the winery’s website.

In 1996, a bottle of the 1973 SLV Cabernet went on display as a permanent part of the Smithsonian Museum of American History’s collection.

Style / Vinification Techniques: SLV and Fay Vineyard Cabernets are single-vineyard designates, and the Cask 23 is a barrel selection comprised of the best lots from both sources. All three wines typically spend 18-22 months in 80-100% new French oak. The wines were legendary during the 1970s and ’80s, but in the 1990s and 2000s some critics began to question their earthy, brett-influenced character. With the recent ownership change, the winery appears to be striving for a riper, cleaner style of Cabernet.

Fay Vineyard (100% Cabernet) / 1990
- 2014 - $360 PSH
- 2009 - $565 PSH
- 2008 - $435 PSH
- 2007 - $435 PSH
- 2006 - $435 PSH
- 2004 - $585 PSH

Stag’s Leap Vineyard (100% Cabernet) / 1972
- 2018 - $425 PSH
- 2014 - $725 PSH
- 2007 - $500 PSH
- 2004 - $565 PSH

Cask 23 (100% Cabernet) / 1974
- 2013 - $700 PSH
- 2012 - $4,200 PSH
- 2010 - $495 PSH
- 2008 - $820 PSH
- 2006 - $925 PSH
- 2004 - $1,175 PSH
- 2003 - $1,025 PSH
- 1993 - $775 PSH

Artemis (approximately 90% Cabernet, estate and non-estate fruit) / 2003
- 2020 - $195 PSH, $180 PSH

104
Q

BOND

A

Melbury
- 2014 - $1,100 PSH
- 2013 - $980 PSH
- 2012 - $825 PSH
- 2011 - $700 PSH
- 2010 - $750 PSH

Pluribus
- 2014 - $1,100 PSH
- 2013 - $980 PSH
- 2012 - $825 PSH
- 2010 - $750 PSH
- 2009 - $700 PSH
- 2008 - $585 PSH

Quella
- 2014 - $1,100 PSH
- 2013 - $980 PSH
- 2012 - $825 PSH

St. Eden
- 2014 - $1,100 PSH
- 2013 - $980 PSH
- 2008 - $585 PSH

Vecina
- 2014 - $1,100 PSH
- 2013 - $980 PSH
- 2012 - $825 PSH
- 2010 - $750 PSH
- 2009 - $585 PSH
- 2008 - $585 PSH
- 2006 - $565 PSH

105
Q

Beaulieu Vineyard

A

Summary: Frenchman Georges de Latour founded Beaulieu Vineyard (BV) in 1900, purchased his first vineyard in 1904 (BV Ranch #1), and was one of the few American wineries to survive Prohibition–by selling sacramental wines to the Catholic Church. The real story begins in 1938, when Latour returned from a trip to France with Russian winemaker and viticulturalist André Tchelistcheff, who became one of the most influential winemakers of the post-Prohibition era in Napa. Tchelistcheff mentored some of California’s greatest young winemakers in the midcentury (Mondavi, Heitz, Grgich), and many of Napa’s pioneers in the ’60s and ’70s sought his advice prior to purchasing vineyard land. At BV, he immediately encouraged Latour to bottle a special lot of 1936 Cabernet Sauvignon as “Georges de Latour Private Reserve,” and was instrumental in modernizing winery practices. Tchelistcheff instituted new standards in winery hygiene, pioneered frost prevention techniques and contributed greatly to the California wine industry’s understanding of temperature-controlled fermentation, malolactic fermentation, and small barrel aging. Under his guidance, the Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon became a benchmark American wine, and BV became one of the most important vineyard properties in California. Latour himself would not see the full fruits of his labors: he died in in 1940.

Shortly after taking control of neighboring Napa legend Inglenook, Heublein Inc. purchased BV in 1969. Both producers suffered greatly in reputation. According to author James Conaway’s Napa: The Story of An American Eden, early viticultural advice from the corporation–which controlled all American distribution rights to Smirnoff Vodka, Guinness, and Jose Cuervo Tequila–included replanting all of BV’s vineyards with Gamay Beaujolais grapes, and making “Champagne” with Thompson Seedless. Beaulieu resisted these efforts, and in 1970 Andy Beckstoffer–then affiliated with Heublein–began acquiring vineyards in Napa to supply BV with premium fruit in order to increase production. Uninspired by the new ownership, Tchelistcheff resigned from the company in 1973 (although he was rehired as a consultant in 1991, in a move widely seen as a public relations ploy). Ownership of BV transitioned through corporate mergers and acquisitions to Diageo in 1997.

In 2008, the estate completed its Georges de Latour Private Reserve Winery, dedicated to the exclusive production of its icon Cabernet. Trevor Durling is the current Director of Winemaking. Michel Rolland consults.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The Georges de Latour Private Reserve today is fermented in open-top fermenters and new French oak barrels; aging occurs in 100% new French oak for approximately 2 years. The wines are released in the third year after harvest.

Georges de Latour Private Reserve (Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from BV Ranches #1 and #2; some vintages include a small amount of other Bordeaux varieties). Inaugural vintage 1936.
- 2018 - $300 PSH, $332 POH
- 1968 - $1,500 E47

Vineyard Reserve Clone 4 (100% Cabernet, Rutherford AVA)
- $194 wine-searcher average

Vineyard Reserve Clone 6 (100% Cabernet, Rutherford AVA)
- $220 - wine-seracher average

106
Q

Opus One

A

Summary: Opus One was formed in 1979 as a joint venture between Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Château Mouton-Rothschild. Mondavi’s son Tim collaborated with Mouton winemaker Lucien Sionneau on that first vintage, which debuted without a name at the 1981 Napa Valley Wine Auction. Under the “Opus One” moniker, the 1979 and 1980 vintages were first released to the public in 1984. In 1981, the Opus One partnership acquired the To-Kalon “Q Block” from Robert Mondavi Winery, and added several other nearby Oakville vineyard sources to its estate portfolio over the next four years. In 2008, Opus One purchased another block of To-Kalon, expanding its holdings in the vaunted Oakville vineyard to over 75 acres of vines. The estate has adopted a Bordeaux approach to viticulture, planting at high densities common in France, rather than the traditional wide-spacing of Californian vineyards. The vineyards are predominantly planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine’s backbone, but all five principal Bordeaux varieties are represented at the estate.

After its debut, Opus One became a symbol of luxury winemaking in Napa Valley, but despite image and price the wines were sometimes overshadowed in the press by the rarer “cult” Cabernets that emerged in the 1990s. In 2004, winemaking–always a joint effort between the two partners–was finally brought under the sole control of Michael Silacci. When Constellation Brands asserted control of Robert Mondavi Winery that same year, the company also gained Mondavi’s 50% share of Opus One, but the Rothschild family and Constellation Brands reached an accord affirming continued operating independence for the Opus One estate.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: Today, Opus One spends about 18 months in barrel (100% new French oak) and 18 months in bottle prior to release to the public. The wine is often fined with egg white before bottling.

Opus One: Inaugural vintage 1979.
- 2019 - $825 POH
- 2008 - $890 POH
- 2003 - $1,050 POH
- 2002 - $1,200 POH
- 1999 - $1,275 POH
- 1998 - $1,050 POH
- 1996 - $1,400 POH
- 1995 - $1,400 POH
- 1993 - $1,535 POH

Overture (multi-vintage second wine)
- NV $325

107
Q

Dana Estates

A

Summary: At the base of the Mayacamas Mountains on Napa’s Rutherford Bench, the former Livingston Moffett winery now houses ambitious new producer Dana Estates. Since its debut under Korean proprietor Hi Sang Lee and winemaking team Cameron Vawter and Philippe Melka in 2005, the winery has quickly cemented its place among Napa’s cult wine firmament, with 100-point scores from Mr. Parker and other lavish critical praise. The project’s original release, a 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon from the property’s Helms Vineyard, was complemented in 2006 with two other single vineyard Cabernet releases, from the Lotus and Hershey Vineyards. All are produced from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and released in tiny quantities, in the range of 100-250 cases each. A fourth wine, “Onda,” made its debut in the American market for the 2010 vintage as a Cabernet-dominant blend of Bordeaux varieties and all four vineyard sources. Chris Cooney took over for Vawter in 2015, and Philippe Melka continues to consult on winemaking.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: The single vineyard Cabernet wines are fermented in a variety of vessels, including barriques, concrete tanks, and large oak casks–the choice is dependent on vineyard and vintage. The wines generally remain on the skins for 30-40 days before pressing. 100% new French oak from a variety of forests and coopers is employed, and the wines spend around 2 years each in barrel. The wines are ripe, opulent and polished, and often exceed 15% in alcohol.

Helms Vineyard: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Inaugural vintage 2005. Rutherford
- 2016 - $990 PSH
- 2014 - $964 PSH
- 2013 - $950 PSH
- 2012 - $900 PSH
- 2011 - $815 PSH
- 2010 - $925 PSH

Hershey Vineyard: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Inaugural vintage 2006. Howell Mountain
- 2016 - $990 PSH
- 2014 - $965 PSH
- 2012 - $900 PSH
- 2011 - $815 PSH
- 2010 - $860 PSH

Lotus Vineyard: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Napa
- 2019 - $1,225 PSH
- 2016 - $990 PSH
- 2014 - $965 PSH
- 2013 - $950 PSH
- 2011 - $815 PSH

Onda: Over90% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Inaugural vintage 2010 (USA; originally only sold in Asia as “Ondo d’Oro”).
- $233 average wine-searcher

108
Q

Robert Mondavi Winery

A

Summary: Robert Mondavi is undeniably the most famous name in American wine, and he was one of the most influential players in Napa Valley’s history. The Mondavi family arrived in Napa Valley after Prohibition, and Cesare Mondavi purchased the historic Charles Krug Winery in 1943. His sons Robert and Peter managed the winery for over two decades together, but in the winter of 1965, the two brothers quarreled–an episode that flared over competing management ideas and a mink coat, the stuff of legend in Napa–and Robert set out on his own, founding his eponymous winery the following year in Oakville. The To-Kalon Vineyard, originally planted by H.W. Crabb in 1868, formed the core of the property. Robert Mondavi’s new project was the first in Napa to employ French oak barrels exclusively for aging wine, and was among the original adopters of temperature-controlled, stainless steel fermentation tanks. In 1968, Mondavi rebranded Sauvignon Blanc as “Fumé Blanc,” and released the winery’s first Cabernet Sauvignon, a 1966 bottling. In 1971, the winery released its first “Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon, a benchmark wine for the valley. Over the next forty years, sons Michael and Tim would manage the business and winemaking, respectively, as Mondavi grew from a single Napa estate into an empire. In 1979 the family launched the value brand Woodbridge in Lodi and harvested their first vintage of the ultra-premium Opus One (in partnership with Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Château Mouton-Rothschild). The winery went public in 1993, and Director of Winemaking Geneviève Janssens assumed her current role in 1997.

In 2004, after some years of disengagement from Parker and other critics, family business disagreements, and poor stock performance, Robert Mondavi Winery was sold to Constellation Brands. Robert Mondavi died in 2008. Janssens, Wine Enthusiast’s 2010 “Winemaker of the Year,” continues to oversee winemaking, and has brought the wines more in line with modern critical expectations. The winery remains a fixture on Napa Valley’s Highway 29, and retains roughly three-quarters of the nearly 600-acre To-Kalon site, perhaps Napa’s most treasured valley floor vineyard site, and the principal source for Mondavi’s Reserve Cabernet and Reserve Fumé Blanc selections.

Brief Description of Style & Vinification Techniques: While Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon wines from the 1970s and 1980s were more restrained, the current style favors rich, voluptuous fruit and denser textures. The wine today ages in 100% new French oak for less than 2 years, and is not released until the third year after the harvest.

Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve: Inaugural vintage 1971.
- $175 wine-searcher average

Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
- $47 wine-searcher average

Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District
- $109 wine-searcher average

Cabernet Sauvignon, Vine Hill Ranch
- 2002 - $120 WS