Power Supply Flashcards
Power Supply or PSU, for power supply unit (for an exam)
that takes electricity from the wall socket and transforms it into electricity to run the motherboard and other internal components. All of the wires dangling out of it connect to the motherboard and peripherals.
Field replaceable unit (FRU)
refers to the typical parts a tech should carry, such as RAM and a hard drive.
Ground wire
An electrical outlet must be grounded (that is, have a ground wire) have a ground wire to be suitable for PC use. You can tell a grounded outlet because it has a small round hole in addition to the two flat ones. More on this in the next chapter.
direct current (DC)
in which the electrons flow in one direction around a continuous circuit
alternating current (AC)
in which the flow of electrons alternates direction back and forth in a circuit.
USA voltages
standard AC comes in somewhere between 110 and 120 V, often written as ~115 VAC (volts of alternating current)
Rest of the world
220–240 VAC, so power supplies are available with dual-voltage options, making them compatible with either standard.
dual-voltage options
making them compatible with either standard (115 or 240) volts
IEC-320 connector.
The power supply connects to the power cord (and thus to an electrical outlet) via a standard IEC-320 connector.
testing AC power,
check for three things: hot to neutral (115V), hot to ground (115V, and neutral to ground (0V).
multimeter often reffered to as volt-ohm meter (VOM) or digital multimeter (DMM)
to measure a number of aspects of electrical current. A multimeter consists of two probes, an analog or digital meter, and a dial to set the type of test you want to perform.
Multimeter symbol
Note that some multimeters use symbols rather than letters to describe AC and DC settings. The V with the solid line above a dashed line refers to direct current. The V~ stands for alternating current.
four types of electrical tests:
continuity, resistance, AC voltage (VAC), and DC voltage (VDC)
Continuity
tests whether electrons can flow from one end of a wire to the other end. If so, you have continuity; if not, you don’t. You can use this setting to determine if a fuse is good or to check for breaks in wires. If your multimeter doesn’t have a continuity tester (many cheaper multimeters do not), you can use the resistance tester. A broken wire or fuse will show infinite resistance, while a good wire or fuse will show no resistance. Testing AC and DC voltages is a matter of making sure the measured voltage is what it should be.
Using a Multimeter to Test AC Outlets
Move the selector switch to the AC V (usually red). If multiple settings are available, put it into the first scale higher than 120 V (usually 200 V). Auto-range meters set their own range; they don’t need any selection except AC V.
Place the black lead in the common hole. This is for ground and is often marked with a minus sign (–) or COM. If the black lead is permanently attached, ignore this step.
Place the red lead in the V-Ohm-A hole. This is often marked with a plus sign (+). If the red lead is permanently attached, ignore this step.
Put either lead in hot, the other in neutral. You should read 110 to 120 V AC.
Put either lead in hot, the other in ground. You should read 110 to 120 V AC.
Put either lead in neutral, the other in ground. You should read 0 V AC.
If any of these readings is different from what is described here, it’s time to call an electrician.
polarity
(which wire is hot and which is neutral)
brownouts
Large sags in electricity are also known as brownouts
blackout
When the power cuts out completely, it’s called a blackout.
Sag
power company tends to drop well below (sag)
surge or spike
shoot far above (surge or spike) the standard 115 V (in the United States).
surge suppressor
Given the seriousness of surges, every PC should use a surge suppressor device that absorbs the extra voltage from a surge to protect the PC. A dedicated surge suppressor works between the power supply and the outlet to protect the system from power surges, extending the life of the power supply.
Make sure your surge suppressor has the Underwriters Laboratories UL 1449 for 330-V rating to ensure substantial protection for your system. Underwriters Laboratories (www.ul.com) is a U.S.-based, not-for-profit, widely recognized industry testing laboratory whose testing standards are very important to the consumer electronics industry.
joule
A joule is a unit of electrical energy. How much energy a surge suppressor can handle before it fails is described in joules. Most authorities agree that your surge suppressor should rate at a minimum of 2,000 joules—and the more joules, the better the protection.
clamping voltage
Surge suppressors are also rated in clamping voltage, in which an overvoltage condition is “clamped” to a more manageable voltage for a certain amount of time. Good consumer suppressors can clamp 600 volts down to 180 volts or less for at least 50 microseconds and can do so on either the hot line or neutral line.
Note
Caution: No surge suppressor in the world can handle the ultimate surge, the electrical discharge of a lightning strike. If your electrical system takes such a hit, you can kiss your PC and any other electronic devices goodbye if they were plugged in at the time. Always unplug electronics during electrical storms!
Note 1
No surge suppressor works forever. Make sure your surge suppressor has a test/reset button so you’ll know when the device has—as we say in the business—turned into an extension cord. If your system takes a hit and you have a surge suppressor, call the company! Many companies provide cash guarantees against system failure due to surges, but only if you follow their guidelines.