Physical: Coastal Systems And Landscapes Flashcards
Dynamic equilibrium
Balance between inputs and outputs
Coastal system inputs
Energy from:
- wind
- waves
- tides
- sea currents
Sediment
Geology of coastline
Sea level change
Components of a coastal system
Erosional landforms and landscapes
Depositional landforms and landscapes
Outputs of coastal systems
Dissipation of wave energy
Accumulation of sediment above the tide limit
Sediment removed beyond local sediment cells
Negative feedback mechanism in a coastal environment
A beach in dynamic equilibrium
Sediment is eroded from the beach during a storm
Sediment is deposited offshore forming an offshore bar
Waves now forced into break before reaching the beach dissipating their energy and reducing further erosion when they reach the beach
When the storms calms normal wave conditions rework sediment from the offshore bar back onto the beach
Backshore
The area between the high water mark and the landward limit of marine activity
Changes here only occur during storm activity
Foreshore
The area lying between the HWM and the LWM
The most important
Inshore
Area between the LWM and the point where waves cease to have any influence on the land beneath them
Offshore
The area beyond the point where waves cease to impact upon the sea bed and in which activity is limited to deposition of sediments
Nearshore
The area extending seaward from the HWM to the area where waves begin to break
Swash zone
Area where a turbulent layer of water washes up the beach following that breaking of a wave
Surf zone
The area between the point where waves break (forming a foamy bubbly surface) and where the waves then move up the beach as the swash in the swash zone
Breaker zone
The area where waves approaching the coast line begin to break usally where the water depth is 5 to 10 m
Outline an example of positive feedback in a coastal system
As waves erode the cliff, abrasive material such as sand and gravel will become loose, and the incoming waves will carry these materials, resulting in even more cliff erosion
Erosion
The wearing away of the earths surface by the mechanical action of process of glaciers, wind, rivers, marine waves and wind
Fetch
Refers to the distance of open water over which a wind blows uninterrupted by a major of land obstacles.
The length of the fetch helps to determine the magnitude and energy of waves reaching the coast
Mass movement
The movement of material downhill under the influence of gravity but may also be assisted by rainfall
Weathering
The breakdown and decay of rocks at or near the earth’s surface creating regolith that remains in situ until it is moved by erosional processes
Can be mechanical biological or chemical
Importance of wind in a system
Primary source of energy
Wave formation
An agent of erosion (abrasion)
wave characteristics
Wave height/ amplitude
Wavelength
Wave period
Swash
Rush of water up the beach
Backwash
Water running back down towards the sea
Two type of waves
Constructive and destructive