Physical: Coastal Systems And Landscapes Flashcards

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1
Q

Dynamic equilibrium

A

Balance between inputs and outputs

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2
Q

Coastal system inputs

A

Energy from:

  • wind
  • waves
  • tides
  • sea currents

Sediment

Geology of coastline

Sea level change

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3
Q

Components of a coastal system

A

Erosional landforms and landscapes

Depositional landforms and landscapes

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4
Q

Outputs of coastal systems

A

Dissipation of wave energy

Accumulation of sediment above the tide limit

Sediment removed beyond local sediment cells

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5
Q

Negative feedback mechanism in a coastal environment

A

A beach in dynamic equilibrium

Sediment is eroded from the beach during a storm

Sediment is deposited offshore forming an offshore bar

Waves now forced into break before reaching the beach dissipating their energy and reducing further erosion when they reach the beach

When the storms calms normal wave conditions rework sediment from the offshore bar back onto the beach

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6
Q

Backshore

A

The area between the high water mark and the landward limit of marine activity

Changes here only occur during storm activity

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7
Q

Foreshore

A

The area lying between the HWM and the LWM

The most important

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8
Q

Inshore

A

Area between the LWM and the point where waves cease to have any influence on the land beneath them

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9
Q

Offshore

A

The area beyond the point where waves cease to impact upon the sea bed and in which activity is limited to deposition of sediments

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10
Q

Nearshore

A

The area extending seaward from the HWM to the area where waves begin to break

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11
Q

Swash zone

A

Area where a turbulent layer of water washes up the beach following that breaking of a wave

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12
Q

Surf zone

A

The area between the point where waves break (forming a foamy bubbly surface) and where the waves then move up the beach as the swash in the swash zone

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13
Q

Breaker zone

A

The area where waves approaching the coast line begin to break usally where the water depth is 5 to 10 m

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14
Q

Outline an example of positive feedback in a coastal system

A

As waves erode the cliff, abrasive material such as sand and gravel will become loose, and the incoming waves will carry these materials, resulting in even more cliff erosion

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15
Q

Erosion

A

The wearing away of the earths surface by the mechanical action of process of glaciers, wind, rivers, marine waves and wind

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16
Q

Fetch

A

Refers to the distance of open water over which a wind blows uninterrupted by a major of land obstacles.

The length of the fetch helps to determine the magnitude and energy of waves reaching the coast

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17
Q

Mass movement

A

The movement of material downhill under the influence of gravity but may also be assisted by rainfall

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18
Q

Weathering

A

The breakdown and decay of rocks at or near the earth’s surface creating regolith that remains in situ until it is moved by erosional processes

Can be mechanical biological or chemical

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19
Q

Importance of wind in a system

A

Primary source of energy

Wave formation

An agent of erosion (abrasion)

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20
Q

wave characteristics

A

Wave height/ amplitude

Wavelength

Wave period

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21
Q

Swash

A

Rush of water up the beach

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22
Q

Backwash

A

Water running back down towards the sea

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23
Q

Two type of waves

A

Constructive and destructive

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24
Q

Constructive waves

A

Low wave height

Long wavelength

Low frequency - 6-8 per minute

Swash more powerful then backwash

25
Q

Destructive wave

A

High wave height

Steep form

High frequency - 10-14 per minute

Backwash stronger then swash

26
Q

How does wave refraction affect the topography of the beach

A

Wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland causing greater erosion

The low energy waves spill onto the beach resulting in deposition

27
Q

Current

A

The permanent or seasonal movement of surface water on the sea and oceans

28
Q

Three kinds of current

A

Longshore currents

Rip currents

Upwelling

29
Q

Longshore (littoral) currents

A

Occur when waves hit the coastline at an angle

Generates a flow of water running parallel to the current

Transports sediment

30
Q

Rip currents

A

Moving away from the shoreline

Develop when seawater is piled up along the coastline

31
Q

Upwelling

A

Movement of cold water from deep in the ocean towards the surface

32
Q

Tides

A

The periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea in response to the gravitational pull of the moon

33
Q

Spring tide

A

Moon and earth in a straight line

Tide raising force strongest

34
Q

Neap tides

A

Twice a month - moon and sun 90°

Lowest month tidal range

35
Q

How is the regular pattern of tides modified in individual locations?

A

Morphology of the sea bed

Proximity of land masses

Impact of spinning forces on the earth

36
Q

How is tidal range a significant factor in the development of a coastline?

A

Determines the upper and lower limits of erosion and deposition and the amount of time each day the littoral one is exposed to sub-aerial weathering

37
Q

Three types of tidal ranges

A

Macro tidal - more then 4m

Mesotidal - 2 - 4 m

Microtidal - less then 2 m

38
Q

What areas are affected by storm surges?

A

The North Sea

East coast of Britain

39
Q

Coastal sediment budget

A

The balance between sediment being added to and removed from the coastal system that system being defined within each individual sediment cell

40
Q

High energy coasts

A

A coastline where strong steady revealing winds create high energy waves as the rate of erosion is higher then the rate of deposition

41
Q

Low energy coast

A

A coastline where wave energy is low and the rate of deposition often exceed the rate of erosion of sediment

42
Q

Sediment cell

A

A distance area of coastline separates form other areas by well designed boundaries such as headlands

43
Q

How many sediment cells is England and wales divided into?

A

11

44
Q

Name one feature of a submergent coastline

A

Fjord

45
Q

Name three physical impacts of sea level rise

A

Flooding of low lying land

Increased river flooding

Saltwater contamination

46
Q

Name two stores with a sediment cell

A

Beaches

Spits

47
Q

Give one example of how the littoral zone is an example of a physical system

A

Has inputs of sediment, waves current and winds

Which it performs processes upon an outputs of deposition

48
Q

Evaluate the statement “longshore drift is the most important process on the UK’s coastline”

A

LSD is very important because it moves material and prevents beaches building up

For: landforms create economic opportunities and reduce risk of coastal flooding

Against: only operate once other processes have occurred eg weathering

49
Q

How do knowing the inputs and outputs of a coastal system aid strategic planning?

A

Knowing the inputs allows risk to be evaluated and prepared for, fair allocation of resources

Knowing the outputs allows sustainable use, knowing the voucher allows excess to be relocated

50
Q

Explain the development of salt marshes in terms of a system

A

Inputs of sediment and low wave energy results in an open system where output is less then input

51
Q

Low energy coasts characteristics

A

Rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion

Landforms include beaches and spits

Case study: Baltic Sea

52
Q

High energy coast line characteristics

A

Rate of erosion greater then rate of deposition

Landforms: headlands, cliffs and wave cut platforms

Case study: Atlantic coast of Europe and North America

53
Q

Sources for coastal sediment

A

Streams or rivers flowing into the sea

Estuaries

Cliff erosion

Offshore sand banks

Material from a biological origin

54
Q

Name the 11 sediment cells

A

St Abb’s head

Flamborough head

The wash

River Thames

Selsey bill

Portland bill

Lands end

River Severn

St David’s head

Bardsey sound

Great Orme

Slowly firth

55
Q

Coastal sediment budget

A

The balance between sediment being added and removed from the coastal system

56
Q

Marine processes

A

Operate upon a coastline and are connected with the sea such as waves tides and longshore drift

57
Q

Sub-aerial processes

A

Operate on the land but affect them shape of the coastline such as weathering, mass movement and run off

58
Q

Hydraulic action

A

The impact on rocks of the