Perms & Relaxers Flashcards
The process of chemically altering the natural wave pattern of hair is
Chemical hair services
The range of numbers used in the pH scale i
0-14
Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair in order to: Restructure the hair
Soften and swell
In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is
Highly alkaline
Chemical side bonds formed when two sulfur-type chains are joined together are
Disulfide bonds
Hydrogen bonds are easily broken by water or heat and are re-formed when the hair is:
Dried
In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the
Wrapping method
Rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area are
Straight rods
The wrapping technique that provides the most control over hair ends is the
Double flat wrap
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into:
Panels
In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called
Base sections
Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional
Stress and tension
The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as
Base direction
The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are
Croquignole and Spiral
In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from
Ends to scalp
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called
Reduction
In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of
Hydrogen
The most common reducing agents used ar
Thioglycolic acids
The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is
Ammonium thioglycolate
Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between:
9.0 to 9.6
The main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions is
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate
All acid waves have three components consisting of the permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and
Activator
Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between
7.8 and 8.2
Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up
Processing time
Waves that are activated from an outside heat source are considered
Endothermic
Hair that has too many disulfide bonds broken and will not hold a firm curl is considered
Over processed
The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is
Thio neutralization
Base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits, in which wrapping pattern
Bricklay permanent wrap
The double-rod wrap technique is also called the
Piggy back wrap
The process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form is
Relaxer
The active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers is the
Hydroxide ion
Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a(n)
Lanthionine bond
Relaxers that contain only one component and are used without mixing are
Metal hydroxide relaxer
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called
Lye relaxers
Relaxers are often marketed and sold as no mix–no lye relaxers are
Potassium hydroxide
Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are
Guanidine hydroxide
Hydroxide relaxers that do not require the application of a protective base are
No base relaxers
The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration o
Hydroxide
During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is
Insufficiently relaxed
The application for chemical relaxers should be started in the most resistant area, usually the
Back of the head
Conditioner with an acidic pH that restores the hair’s natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer is
Normalizing lotion
A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a
Soft curl permanent
Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of
Abrasions
Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with
Thio relaxers
