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Chemical Texture Services > Perms > Flashcards

Perms Flashcards

1
Q

What is Permanent Waving?

A

Adding wave or curl to the hair

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2
Q

What is Curl re-forming?

A

Loosening overly curly hair, such as when tight curls are turned into loose curls or waves.

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3
Q

What do Chemical texturizers do to the hair?

A

Rase the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to soften and swell the hair shaft.

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4
Q

Course resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires what kind of chemical solution?

A

A highly Alkaline chemical solution.

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5
Q

What are amino acids?

A

they are compounds made up of carbon oxygen hydrogen nitrogen and sulfur. (COHNS)

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6
Q

What are peptide bonds?

A

Also know as end bonds, are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain.

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7
Q

What are Plypeptide chains?

A

They are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.

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8
Q

What are Keratin Proteins?

A

They are long, coiled plypeptide chains.

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9
Q

What are Side bonds?

A

They are disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair.

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10
Q

What are Disulfide bonds?

A

They are strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.

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11
Q

What are Salt Bonds?

A

They are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges. They are easily broken by changes in pH, and they re form when the pH returns to normal.

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12
Q

What are Hydrogen Bonds?

A

They are weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broken by water or heat, and they re form as the hair dries or cools.

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13
Q

The size of the rod determines what?

A

The size of the curl.

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14
Q

What are the different types of rods?

A

Concave, Straight, Soft bender, and loop rods.

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15
Q

What are the three different types of end papers or wraps?

A

Double flat wrap (most control of ends), single flat wrap, bookend wrap.

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16
Q

What are base sections?

A

They are subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section.

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17
Q

What is Base Placement?

A

Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section. Determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. On base, Off base, Half off base.

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18
Q

What type of base placement gives the maximum amount of volume?

A

ON base.

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19
Q

What is base direction?

A

Refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head: Horizontally, vertically, or diagonally.

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20
Q

What are the two basic methods of wrappin gthe hair around the perm rod?

A

Croquignole perm wrp and spiral perm wrap.

21
Q

What is a croquignole perm wrap?

A

Is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers.

22
Q

What is Spiral perm wrap?

A

The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod.

23
Q

The reducing agent commonly referred to as ____ is used in permanent waving solutions.

A

THIO

24
Q

What is Thioglycolic acid?

A

A colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.

25
Q

The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called _____ .

A

ammonium thioglycolate, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

26
Q

What are Alkaline waves?

A

Also known as cold waves, have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate as the reducing agent, process at ROOM TEMP.

27
Q

What is Glyceryl monothioglycolate?

A

Is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. It has a low pH.

28
Q

All acid waves have three separate compenents:

A

Permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer.

29
Q

What are True Acid Waves?

A

They have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waved and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.

30
Q

What are acid balanced waves?

A

Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temp, do not require the added heat of a dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.

31
Q

What are Exothermic Waves?

A

Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing. PRODUCE HEAT.

32
Q

What are endothermic waves?

A

They are activated by an outside heat source, usually a concentional hood type hair dryer.

33
Q

What are ammonia free waves?

A

Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.

34
Q

What are Thio-Free Waves?

A

Use an ingredient other than ATG, as the primary reducing agent.

35
Q

In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the _____ penetrates the hair, within the first 5 to 10 minutes.

A

solution.

36
Q

If you find that your clients hair has been overprocessed, it probably happened withing the first ___ to ___ minutes of the service, and a weaker permanent waving solution should have been used.

A

5 to 10

37
Q

What is overprocessed hair?

A

If too many disulfide bonds are broke, the hair may not have enough stregth left to hold the desired curl. Weak hair equals a weak curl.

38
Q

What is Thio neutralization?

A

It stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form. Neutralization performs two important functions: deactivates and rebuilds.

39
Q

When processing is competed, rinse the hair thoroughly for at least ___ minutes?

A

5

40
Q

Waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds in the cortex through a chemical reaction called:

A

reduction

41
Q

Chemical based bonds that cannot be broken by water:

A

disulfide

42
Q

Peptide bonds are also known as:

A

end bonds

43
Q

The most common type of perm rod:

A

concave

44
Q

The strongest of the three bonds are:

A

disulfide

45
Q

Salt bonds are easily broken by:

A

changes in pH

46
Q

True or false:

Disulfide bonds broken by hydrogen relaxers are broken permanently.

A

True

47
Q

Sulfites are used in:

A

low-pH waves

48
Q

The chemical reaction involved in deactivation waving lotion left in the hair after processing and rinsing is:

A

oxidation

49
Q

Neautralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing extra:

A

hydrogen atoms

Chemical Texture Services (2 decks)

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