Perm Skills Flashcards
Pre Perm Analysis
an analysis of four things:
The analysis helps you with 3 things:
porosity
elasticity
texture
density
choose the right BASE AND ROD SIZE
select proper PERM SOLUTION
manage PROCESSING TIME
Porosity
the ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals.
The more porous, the more able it is to absorb perm solution
Porous Hair = __________ acid perm
Resistant Hair = needs stronger __________ solution in order to __________ cuticle and allow perm chemicals to be absorbed
Highly or excessively porous hair = needs to be ______________ before perm with _____________ to equalize porosity
porous = MILD ACID perm
Resistant = Stronger ALKALINE perm
SOFTENS CUTICLE
Highly Porous = reconditioned and pre-wrapped to equalize porosity
What test is used to determine porosity?
Finger test
Run your thumb and finger down the hair shaft against direction of growth (ends to base). If it’s rough, the cuticle scales are raised and therefore more porous
Elasticity
Normal dry hair:
Wet hair:
Hair with poor elasticity
The hairs ability to stretch without breaking.
NORMAL DRY HAIR: can be stretched 1/5 (20%) of its length
WET HAIR: can be stretched 40%-50% of length
Will not return to it’s normal length
Hair that lacks elasticity is also known as
Resiliency
Can react adversely to perm solution
Not advisable to perm!
Elasticity test aka ____________
Tests ___________
Purpose of elasticy test
Pull test
Structural strength
Checks the ability of hair to stretch and return to original shape without breaking
Elasticity tests assesses damage to the _______
Internal structure of hair / CORTEX
Elasticity test
HOW TO
If hair returns to ____% or less, it is structurally week and needs _______
- Remove strand of hair from SIDE OF HEAD
- Using THUMB NAIL and index finger, run the length of hair strand as if CURLING A RIBBON, multiple times, creating a series of small curls
- Gently pull hair taught for 10 SECONDS and release
50% or less needs conditioning
Texture
Which textures are most difficult to perm
Degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair
Fine and coarse hair
Fine hair is resistant because of
Medium hair has on average ______ layers of cuticle and generally _______
Coarse hair may be resistant due to
Tightly packed cuticle
7-10 layers of cuticle / accepts product well
Increased number of cuticle layers
Density
In perming, density helps determine
The amount of follicles per square inch on the scalp
Referred to as light, medium, or heavy (thin medium or thick)
HELPS DETERMINE the amount of hair that will be wrapped on each rod
Denser hair requires SMALLER BASES
Perm manufacturers label their products based on things
Texture, porosity, desired curl
Tenacity
The ease or difficulty with which a product can PENETRATE THE CUTICLE.
Physical phase
3 steps:
Distribute
Section
Wrap
Chemical phase
2 steps
Process
Neutralize
5 steps to a perm procedure
First three are in the physical phase
Distribute
Section
Wrap
Distribute step
4 main ways to distribute hair
Clockwise/counterclockwise direction is ideal for:
Direct or distribute hair in direction they want to wear their hair
Away from face (fresh look)
Toward the face (frames eyes)
Side part ( asymmetrical design)
Clockwise/counter clockwise directions.
*ideal for enhancing natural wave
pattern or creating flowing waves
Sections help you define and create:
Three main shapes of sections
Bases aka the areas between two partings
- Rectangular
- Circular
- Oblong
Wrapping
Two wrapping techniques
The most physical part of the perm service
- Overlap aka croquignole
- Spiral
Overlap wrapping technique
Aka croquignole
- Hair overlaps itself
- Should overlap AT LEAST TWO TIMES to create curl pattern
- Helps achieve base lift
Spiral wrapping technique
Wrapped base to ends OR ends to base
Results in corkscrew shaped curl
Creates elongated texture pattern
Tool position
Determined by:
The placement of the wrapped perm rod in relation to its base
Size of base
Angle at which hair is projected while wrapping
Effects: degree of LIFT and BLENDING between bases
4 basic tool positions
On base
Half off base
Underdirected
Off base
On base
Half off base
Under directed
Off base
On base: 45 DEGREES above center . most volume NOT RECOMMENDED FOR ALKALINE PERMS (could cause breakage)
HALF OFF: 90 DEGREES / 1x base size
Under directed: 90 DEGREES / 1.5 base size
Off base: 45% below center
End paper techniques
Bookend
Double paper
Single paper
Cushion
Cushion technique: incorporates several end papers - layers end papers to support fragile hair; USED IN ALKALINE solutions to keep hair smooth and provide for expansion while hair swells ; good for layered hair
Heat is sometimes required for_________ and generally not for __________
Required for ACID perms
Not required for alkaline perms
Curl test
Positive test curl
Unwind 1.5-2 turns of the rod
Positive test curl: definite S shape, subdivides into groupings and dimension of wave matches diameter of the perm rod.
Rinsing
Stops processing action
Blotting
Very important to remove water after rinsing because excess water will dilute neutralizer.
