Perm Skills

Question 1

Pre Perm Analysis
an analysis of four things:

The analysis helps you with 3 things:

Answer 1

porosity
elasticity
texture
density

choose the right BASE AND ROD SIZE
select proper PERM SOLUTION
manage PROCESSING TIME

Question 2

Porosity

Answer 2

the ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals.

The more porous, the more able it is to absorb perm solution

Question 3

Porous Hair = __________ acid perm

Resistant Hair = needs stronger __________ solution in order to __________ cuticle and allow perm chemicals to be absorbed

Highly or excessively porous hair = needs to be ______________ before perm with _____________ to equalize porosity

Answer 3

porous = MILD ACID perm

Resistant = Stronger ALKALINE perm
SOFTENS CUTICLE

Highly Porous = reconditioned and pre-wrapped to equalize porosity

Question 4

What test is used to determine porosity?

Answer 4

Finger test

Run your thumb and finger down the hair shaft against direction of growth (ends to base). If it’s rough, the cuticle scales are raised and therefore more porous

Question 5

Elasticity

Normal dry hair:

Wet hair:

Hair with poor elasticity

Answer 5

The hairs ability to stretch without breaking.

NORMAL DRY HAIR: can be stretched 1/5 (20%) of its length

WET HAIR: can be stretched 40%-50% of length

Will not return to it’s normal length

Question 6

Hair that lacks elasticity is also known as

Answer 6

Resiliency

Can react adversely to perm solution
Not advisable to perm!

Question 7

Elasticity test aka ____________
Tests ___________

Purpose of elasticy test

Answer 7

Pull test
Structural strength

Checks the ability of hair to stretch and return to original shape without breaking

Question 8

Elasticity tests assesses damage to the _______

Answer 8

Internal structure of hair / CORTEX

Question 9

Elasticity test
HOW TO

If hair returns to ____% or less, it is structurally week and needs _______

Answer 9

1. Remove strand of hair from SIDE OF HEAD
2. Using THUMB NAIL and index finger, run the length of hair strand as if CURLING A RIBBON, multiple times, creating a series of small curls
3. Gently pull hair taught for 10 SECONDS and release

50% or less needs conditioning

Question 10

Texture

Which textures are most difficult to perm

Answer 10

Degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair

Fine and coarse hair

Question 11

Fine hair is resistant because of

Medium hair has on average ______ layers of cuticle and generally _______

Coarse hair may be resistant due to

Answer 11

Tightly packed cuticle

7-10 layers of cuticle / accepts product well

Increased number of cuticle layers

Question 12

Density

In perming, density helps determine

Answer 12

The amount of follicles per square inch on the scalp

Referred to as light, medium, or heavy (thin medium or thick)

HELPS DETERMINE the amount of hair that will be wrapped on each rod

Denser hair requires SMALLER BASES

Question 13

Perm manufacturers label their products based on things

Answer 13

Texture, porosity, desired curl

Question 14

Tenacity

Answer 14

The ease or difficulty with which a product can PENETRATE THE CUTICLE.

Question 15

Physical phase

3 steps:

Answer 15

Distribute
Section
Wrap

Question 16

Chemical phase

2 steps

Answer 16

Process

Neutralize

Question 17

5 steps to a perm procedure

First three are in the physical phase

Answer 17

Distribute
Section
Wrap

Question 18

Distribute step

4 main ways to distribute hair

Clockwise/counterclockwise direction is ideal for:

Answer 18

Direct or distribute hair in direction they want to wear their hair

Away from face (fresh look)
Toward the face (frames eyes)
Side part ( asymmetrical design)
Clockwise/counter clockwise directions.
*ideal for enhancing natural wave
pattern or creating flowing waves

Question 19

Sections help you define and create:

Three main shapes of sections

Answer 19

Bases aka the areas between two partings

1. Rectangular
2. Circular
3. Oblong

Question 20

Wrapping

Two wrapping techniques

Answer 20

The most physical part of the perm service

1. Overlap aka croquignole
2. Spiral

Question 21

Overlap wrapping technique

Answer 21

Aka croquignole

• Hair overlaps itself
• Should overlap AT LEAST TWO TIMES to create curl pattern
• Helps achieve base lift

Question 22

Spiral wrapping technique

Answer 22

Wrapped base to ends OR ends to base

Results in corkscrew shaped curl

Creates elongated texture pattern

Question 23

Tool position

Determined by:

Answer 23

The placement of the wrapped perm rod in relation to its base

Size of base
Angle at which hair is projected while wrapping

Effects: degree of LIFT and BLENDING between bases

Question 24

4 basic tool positions

Answer 24

On base
Half off base
Underdirected
Off base

Question 25

On base

Half off base

Under directed

Off base

Answer 25

On base: 45 DEGREES above center . most volume NOT RECOMMENDED FOR ALKALINE PERMS (could cause breakage)

HALF OFF: 90 DEGREES / 1x base size

Under directed: 90 DEGREES / 1.5 base size

Off base: 45% below center

Question 26

End paper techniques

Bookend
Double paper
Single paper
Cushion

Answer 26

Cushion technique: incorporates several end papers - layers end papers to support fragile hair; USED IN ALKALINE solutions to keep hair smooth and provide for expansion while hair swells ; good for layered hair

Question 27

Heat is sometimes required for_________ and generally not for __________

Answer 27

Required for ACID perms

Not required for alkaline perms

Question 28

Curl test

Positive test curl

Answer 28

Unwind 1.5-2 turns of the rod

Positive test curl: definite S shape, subdivides into groupings and dimension of wave matches diameter of the perm rod.

Question 29

Rinsing

Answer 29

Stops processing action

Question 30

Blotting

Answer 30

Very important to remove water after rinsing because excess water will dilute neutralizer.