Part 1

Question 1

Why do you think waves break when they get close to the shore?

Answer 1

Waves break close to the shore because the water becomes shallower

Question 2

When the water level is at its lowest point and the forces are most out of balance, in which direction is the force acting to restore the water surface to its mean level?

Answer 2

The force is directed upwards as the surface of the water returns to the mean water level

Question 3

What is superposition?

Answer 3

It is point where two or more waves meet, the disturbance at that point is given by the sum of the disturbances due to each of the waves. This means that in some places the waves cancel each other out, and in others they become magnified.

describes the overlapping of waves

Question 4

What does symbol λ represent?

Answer 4

Wavelength

Question 5

what is symbol λ called?

Answer 5

pronounced lambda

Question 6

What would be the easiest way to make the circle of the expanding wave in Figure 1.3 larger?

Answer 6

We could displace the surface by a greater amount by using a larger or heavier stone

Question 7

What is wavelength and what is it measured in?

Answer 7

It is a distance and is measured in a unit of length such as metres

Question 8

What does symbol f stand for?

Answer 8

Frequency

Question 9

What unit is frequency measured in?

Answer 9

frequency is given in units called hertz (abbreviated to Hz)

Question 10

What is a Hertz equal to?

Answer 10

1 Hz is equal to 1 s−1.

Frequency is measured in units of 1/s, and so is written s−1

Question 11

What is frequency?

Answer 11

The frequency of a wave tells us how many times per second a wave will reach its maximum amplitude at a specific point in space, or, alternatively, how many times per second the maximum of the wave will go past a specific point in space.

frequency is the number of waves/oscillations/cycles per unit time.

Question 12

What does this symbol mean ∝?

Answer 12

proportional to

Question 13

What happens to the frequency when the wavelength increases?

Answer 13

Because there is an inverse relationship, as the wavelength gets larger the frequency of the wave will decrease

Question 14

What is wavelength?

Answer 14

the distance between successive crests of a wave, especially points in a sound wave or electromagnetic wave

is the distance between two maxima

Question 15

What does ‘k’ before the Hz stand for?

Answer 15

It stands for 1000, so 909 kHz stands for 909 000 Hz

Question 16

How does pitch relate to frequency?

Answer 16

a low frequency corresponds to a low pitch, and a high frequency to a high pitch. An adult with a deeper voice talks in a low pitch, compared with a young child who talks in a high-pitched voice.

Question 17

What is periodic motion?

Answer 17

Periodic motion is a repetitive motion characterised by the requirement that the object undergoing it returns to the same position after some fixed value of time.