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paper1 Flashcards

1
Q

what are the natural fibres

A

cotton, linen, ramie, wool, silk, cashmere, mohair, angora

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2
Q

what are the manufactured fibres

A

viscose, acetate, modal, tencel, lyocell

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3
Q

what are the synthetic fibres

A

polyester, acrylic, elastomeric, chlor fibres, fluorofibres, PTFE

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4
Q

what are the aramid fibres

A

kevlar and nomex

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5
Q

what are the inorganic fibres

A

glass, carbon, metallic, ceramic

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6
Q

what are the smart materials

A

reactive materials, thermochromic materials, photochromic dyes

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7
Q

what are modern material

A

micro fibres, nanofibres, microencapsulated fibres and fabric

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8
Q

what is cotton

A

most commonly used natural cellulosic fibre.
grow from seeds in a seed pod.
it is highly absorbent, soft, strong, biodegradable.
it is bad for the environment as it uses a lot of water, land and pesticides

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9
Q

what is linen

A

one of the oldest textile fibres but use has declined since cotton
made from the stem of the flax
woody fibre
brittle and creases easily

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10
Q

what is ramie

A

from the nettle family
fibres are 4-6 inches long
softer than flax.
doesn’t retain dyes well unless dry cleaned
strong for a natural fibre but lacks resiliency, elasticity,
resistant to mildew, insects and shrinkage.

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11
Q

what is wool

A

a staple fibre that is highly crimped derived from sheep.
structure and properties depend on the type of sheep.
It is very insulating because of the scales on the fibres that trap air.
it is hydrophobic

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12
Q

what is silk

A

a filament fibre excreted by the silk worm
high lustre and strength and is a luxury.
monofibre

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13
Q

what is mohair

A

very resilient staple fiber obtained from the angora goat. resembles wool but is longer

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14
Q

angora wool

A

staple fibre, comes form the coat of an angora rabbit. known for its soft fibres and silky texture. warmer and lighter than sheeps wool due to the hollow core of the angora fibre.

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15
Q

what is cashmere

A

fine soft inner coat obtained frim the cashmere goat. fibres are extremely fine and soft

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16
Q

what is viscose

A

a regenerated fibre
first man made fibre
made using dissolved wood pulp in sodium hydroxide and pushed through a spinneret that are different shapes for different fibres
chemically similar to cotton
properties: weak, high absorbency, breathable, poor elasticity, biodegradable and recyclable, cheap to produce and good drape.

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17
Q

what is acetate

A

made from cellulose acetate
properties: moderately stiff, low absorbency, breathable, smooth, soft, crease easily, thermoplastic

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18
Q

what is modal

A

a form of viscose fibres
improved wet strength and is abrasion resistant
it is soft to handle and has good drape properties. it is absorbent yet breathable

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19
Q

what is lyocell

A

branded as tencel
like cotton but very eco friendly, high strength, absorbent, breathable, low shrinkage

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20
Q

what are flurofibres

A

branded as teflon
used as a protective coating on fabrics
water repellent
stain resistant
flexible
durable
used in gortex

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21
Q

what is chlorofibres

A

(PVC)
can be used as a protective coating on fabrics
water proof
strong
durable
always blended

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22
Q

what are aramid fibres

A

group of high performance fabrics that include brand names
man made
nomex kevlar

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23
Q

what is nomex

A

flame resistant
used in fire fighters uniforms

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24
Q

what is kevlar

A

extremely high strength
used in bullet proof vests

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25
Q

what is polymide

A

synthetic fibre
also known as nylon
non absorbent
prone to static
very strong
very durable
easy care
dries quickly
crease resistant
thermoplastic

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26
Q

what is polyester

A

synthetic fibres
low absorbency
fast drying
easy care
strong
crease resistant

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27
Q

what is elastomeric/ elastane

A

branded as lycra
synthetic
always blended by using an elastomeric core and an outer covering of another fibre
adds stretch, comfort and crease resistance

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28
Q

what is acrylic

A

synthetic
soft
wool-like
warm
fast drying
strong
crease resistant

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29
Q

what are the inorganic fibres

A

glass
carbon
metallic
ceramics

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30
Q

what is glass fibres

A

strong
shatter proof
non stick
non toxic
used in aerospace and military uniforms
flame and heat barrier

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31
Q

what are carbon fibres

A

strong
lightweight
flame resistant
used for transport upholstery
rocket motors
protective clothing for military
used in the production of nanofibres

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32
Q

what are metallic fibres

A

aluminium, copper, steel, gold, used in decorative textiles
silver is used for antibacterial properties

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33
Q

what are ceramic fibres

A

resistant to high temperatures
used for heta proof mats and safety blankets
uv protective clothing and insulation against high temperatures

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34
Q

what is tensile strength

A

ability to resist breaking under tension

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35
Q

what is abrasion resistance

A

the ability to resist surface wear caused by the rubbing contact with another material

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36
Q

what is elasticity

A

the ability to be deformed and then return to its original shape when dorce is removed also crease resistance

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37
Q

what is absorbency

A

the ability to absorb and retain liquid

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38
Q

what is easy care

A

the ability to maintain the optimum appearance with the minimum effort when laundering

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39
Q

what is colour fastness

A

the ability to reatain dye during the manufacturing process and when washed or exposed to sunlight

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40
Q

what is electrostatic charge

A

the ability for static electricity to develop in fibres under exceptionally dry conditions

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41
Q

what is thermal insulation

A

the ability to trap air, preventing the transfer of heat through material

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42
Q

what is corrosive solvent resistance

A

the ability to withstand attack and decay from substances such as bleach

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43
Q

what is micro-organism and insect resistance

A

ability to withstand attack and decay from organisms such as bacteria and moths

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44
Q

what is flammability

A

the ability to burn and ignite causing a fire or combustion

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45
Q

what is thermoplasticity

A

the ability to become pliable and mouldable when heated, enabling textures and creases to be set and retained once cooled

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46
Q

what is formability

A

the ability to manipulate and deform fabrics without damaging them

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47
Q

what are the working characteristics of fabrics

A

tensile strength
abrasion resistance
elasticity
absorbency
easy care
colour fastness
electrostatic charge
thermal insulation
corrosive solvent resistance
micro-organism and insect resistance
flammability
thermoplasticity
formability

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48
Q

what are the aesthetic properties of textile

A

handle- how fabric behaves
drape- how fabric hangs under its own weight
lustre- refers to a textile materials ability to reflect light so it appears glossy

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49
Q

how to do a simple workshop test for flammability

A

-use precisely cut fabric samples and paper fuse
-light the paper fuse and use a stopwatch to see how long it takes the flame to reach a wire marker
-record the time and other predetermined observations

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50
Q

how to do a simple workshop test for crease resistance

A
  • fabric is folded in half and placed between pieces of paper under weights
  • take the weights off and leave the fabric to recover for 5 minutes then calculate the distances between the two ends
    -record the result and repeat with other fabrics
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51
Q

how to do a simple workshop test for shrink resistance

A

-sew a coloured stitch or use a permanent marker to marker to mark an exact 10cm square
- make a control sample and wash all the remaining samples at 10 degrees more than the highest wash temp with lots of other fabric to mimic a full wash.
dry and iron sample
-work out the percentage shrinkage
shrinkage= distance before- distance after / original length x 100

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52
Q

how do do a simple workshop test for colour fastness

A

workshop test can replicate industrial tests for wash fastness
-smaples are sewn onto white fabric and washed for a predetermined time at an agreed temperature
the dried smaples are compared to a control sample and the white fabric is checked for staining
-reliable workshop testing for light fastness in fabrics is impossible
a prolonged perios of time is needed and light intensity cannot be controlled in the same way as a laboratory

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53
Q

how to do a simple workshop test for strength

A

hard to replicate in a workshop
impossible to achieve the large forces needed to break fabrics using basic tools and equipment- some observations can eb found though
-prepare same size sample
- make a small cut in the warp and a small cut in the weft aswell as the bias edges
-tear along the samples to see which tears easily and which fabrics require more force

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54
Q

how to do a simple workshop test for pilling

A
  • fabric samples are stapled onto a wooden block
    -glass paper is stapled onto a smaller wooden block
    -the glass paper wooden block is rubbed all over the surface of the fabric to mimic wear
    -the number of passes it takes for pills to start forming is recorded
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55
Q

why are industrial tests carried out

A

to ensure that a product complies with the designer’s specifications and includes quality-control tests and quality assurance standards.
usually carried out in laboratories using specialist machineries and standardised tests

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56
Q

how to carry out an industrial test to see the minimum time for a flame to cause ignition

A

-prepare a fabric sample which is held vertically in a metal frame
- a small flame from a bunsen burner is applied for two seconds then three then four then six then eight until it catches
- the test is complete is the fabric burns for more than 1 second

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57
Q

how to test flame spread and flame behaviour

A

used on fabrics that have low flammability
-small flame is applied to a prepared sample and removed after ten seconds
-the duration of the flame and after glow are timed and any debris reorded
-the size of the hole burned into the fabric is recorded

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58
Q

how to test the rate of a flame spread

A

-large sample of fabric is placed in a metal frame
-cotton trip threads attached to timers are placed horizontally
-a small flame is applied and then removed after 10 seconds
-as each cotton trip thread is burnt through the timer will stop showing the burn distance and allowing the burning rate to be calculated

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59
Q

how to test the shrink resistance (industrial)

A
  • fabric is overlocked to prevent fraying
    -permanent ink is used to mark precise reference points on the fabric
  • the prepared fabric samples are washed with pieces of polyester fabric to mimic a wash load
    -the samples are dried
  • remeasure to find the shrink percentage (negative percentage)
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60
Q

how to test for wash fastness 1 (industrial)

A
  • sample are cut to an agreed size
    -each sample is secured in a white fabric envelope and washed for a set amount of time at an agreed temperature
    -the dried samples are then compared to the control samples changes in the colour and staining of the envolope fabric are assesed using grey scales. the best grade is 5 the worst is 1
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61
Q

how to test for wash fastness 2 (industrial)

A
  • samples are cut to an agreed size
  • a multi fibre swatch is sewn to the sample
  • accelaerated washing is performed in cannisters placed in a machine called a launderometer
    -grey scale cards and the control sample are used to evealuate chnages in the shade and the extent of the staining on each fibre
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62
Q

how to test for light fastness (industrial)

A
  • samples are cut to an agreed size
    -two thirds of each sample is enclosed in an opaque cover
    -the uncovered area of the sample is exposed to intense artificial light generated by an Xenon arc light. the light is filtered to replicate the accelerated intensity of natural daylight through glass
    -the area of the exposed sample is compared with covered part using greyscale cards
    -
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63
Q

how to test tensile strength in woven fabrics (industrial)

A
  • rectangular fabric samples are cut in a direction parralel to the warp and weft
  • to ensure all yarns in the sample run along the entire length, the width of the sample is reduced to 5cm be reveling (removing) yarn from both edges
    -the sample is stretched and the distance travelled is plotted, giving information on extensibility, yield point, maximium load and final breaking point
    -the test is repeated with samples cut in the warp and weft directions
    -non-woven fabrics are tested for strength, in the same way, using a strip of fabric that can be cut in any direction as non- woven fabrics have no straight grain
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64
Q

how to test the strength of knitted fabrics (industrial)

A
  • a circle of knitted fabric is clamped over a rubber diaphragm
  • air or water is pumped under pressure in a chamber below the sample fabric and rubber diaphragm
  • the pressure is applied radially and is increased until the knitted fabric ruptures or bursts
  • the pressure needed to rupture the fabric is called bursting strength
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65
Q

how to test for pilling (industrial)

A

Martindale machine test for abrasion and pilling
-circular samples of test fabrics are clamped onto one of the machine’s four discs and weight is put onto each disc
-the test samples are rubbed against an abrasive fabric
-the machine controls and records the number of rubbing cycles
- the test samples are examined at at regular intervals for the presence of wear leading to pilling
- on completion, the samples are compared in a light box with a controlled sample.

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66
Q

What is cotton

A

most widely used natural fibre and it comes form the cotton boll of the cotton plant

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67
Q

properties of cotton

A

-breathable
-conducts heat away from the body
-absorbent
-non-static
-good strength
-very little elasticity
-creases easily
-highly flammable
-poor insulator
-comfortable and soft handle
-damaged by mildew and long sun exposure
-biodegradable

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68
Q

fabrics made with the cotton firbre

A

calico
terry toweling
muslin
flannel
voile
wincyette
chambray
poplin
denim
drill
gingham
madras
seersucker
corduroy
velvet
knitted jersey
velour

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69
Q

uses for cotton

A

shirts
jeans
dresses
socks

towels
sheets

medical dressings
nappeies
sewing threads

tents
sportswear
sails

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70
Q

how is the cotton fibre produced

A

-cotton grows in a bool around the seeds of a cotton plant
-harvesting is carried out
-the fibres are separated from the seeds using a process called ginning
-mechanical purification happens to remove debris
- fibres are scoured to remove natural wax coating
-the cotton fibres are spun

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71
Q

what is linen

A

one of the most expensive natural fibres
labour intensive so produced in small quantities and comes from the flax plant stem

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72
Q

properties of linen fibres

A

-absorbent
-breathable
-very strong
-poor elasticity, creases
-flammable
-poor insulator
-flat surface so has lustre
-poor drape
-stiff
-damaged by mildew, sweat and bleach
-biodegradable

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73
Q

fabrics made with linen fibres

A

crash, interlining, holland

74
Q

uses for linen

A

summer or tropical garments

tablecloths
dish towels
bedsheets

awnings
art canvases

75
Q

how is linen produced

A

the fibres are loosened from the flax stem by retting
the retted stems are crushed in scorching to separate the fibres from the wood outer bark
the fibres are combed to leave long fibres
the fibres are spun

76
Q

what is ramie

A

oldest natural fibre. has a high cost means it is not widely used but sustainability means its becoming more popular
one plant harvested up to 3x a year

77
Q

properties of ramie

A

-absorbent
-breathable
-doesnt shrink
-harder to dye than cotton
-naturally white
-strong
-poor elasticity- creases
-flammable
-poor insulator
-lustrous
-stiff and brittle
- resistant to mildew, light and insects
-bidegradable

78
Q

fabrics made from ramie fibres

A

ramie

79
Q

uses for ramie

A

lightweight summer clothes

table clothes
dish cloths

ribbon
sacks
twine

80
Q

how is ramie produced

A

stems are harvested by cutting above the root
decortication happens to remove the bark of the stem
the raw fibres are washed, dried and degummed using chemicals to extract the spinnable fibre
the processed fibres are spun into staple yarn

81
Q

what is wool

A

wool comes from sheep
fibres are classed due to their properties
staple fibres

82
Q

properties of wool

A

-water repellent
-good moisture absorbency
-antistatic
-heat, moisture and mechanical action shrink and felt the fibres
-strong
- not very durable
-no lustre
- biodegradable

83
Q

fabrics made from wool fibres

A

flannel
jersey
tweed
serge
fleece
tartan

84
Q

uses for wool

A

coats
suits
trousers
sweaters
gloves
socks

blankets
carpets

lesuire wear

85
Q

how are wool fibres produced

A

-shearing- sheeps fleece is removed once a year
-sorting- the longer fibres are separated from the shorter fibres and the short fibres are put through a woollen system to make jumpers etc
- carbonising and scouring- chemical process that removes vegetable matter and scouring washes the fibres to remove dirt
-carding- disentangles clumps of fibresand aligns them so they are parallel and condenses them into a continuous strand
-spinning

86
Q

what is animal hair

A

expensive
include:
-angora
-mohair
-cashmere

87
Q

properties of animal hair

A

-fire resistant
-thermal insulator
-soft, luxious
-biodegradable

88
Q

fabrics made with animal hair

A

cashmere- soft, lightweight and much more insulating than wool
mohair- long, lightly curled, naturally elastic and crease resistant
angora- fine and lightweight, hollow core

89
Q

uses for animal hair

A

luxury coats
suits
knitwear

luxury interior textiles

90
Q

how is animal hair produced

A
  • cashmere and angora- the fibres need to be washed and de-haired to remove the coarse guard hair before being spun into yarns.
    -anfora goats are shorn once a year to collect mohair. fibres are processed like wool but extra care is taken
91
Q

what is silk

A

comes from the cocoon of silk worms. vegans and animal rights activists see this as unethical because the moth is boiled and killed before the silk is harvested.

92
Q

properties of silk

A

-high tensile strength
-absorbent
-weak when wet
-elastic
-doesnt burn easily
-warm
-lustrous
-comfortable
-drapes well
-weakened if exposed to sunlight and sweat
-biodegradable

93
Q

fabrics made with silk

A

chiffon
crepe
crepe de chine
duchesse
organza
taffeta

94
Q

uses of silk

A

formal wear
ties
lingerie
blouses

soft furnishes
bedsheets

surgical sutures
ribbons

95
Q

how are silk fibres produced

A

silk worm produced the fibre when it pupates
to extract the fibre the cocoons are degummed by soaking them in boiling water
the long filament fibre is unwound

96
Q

what are first generation fibres

A

acetate and viscose

97
Q

how is acetate made

A

cotton fibre waste is dissolved into a polymer solution by treating it with a solvent

98
Q

how is viscose made

A

wood pulp is dissolved into a polymer solution by treating it with a solvent

99
Q

what type of spinning is acetate made with

A

dry spinning

100
Q

what type of spinning is viscose made with

A

wet spinning

101
Q

what is dry spinning

A

the polymer solution is extruded into a stream of warm air which evaporates the solvent and solidifies the filament fibres

102
Q

what is wet spinning

A

the polymer solution is extruded into a chemical bath. the chemicals neutralise the solvent and solidify the cellulose

103
Q

what are the new generation fibres

A

modal
lyocell (tencel)

104
Q

how is modal made

A

wood pulp from sustainable sources is dissolved into a polymer solution using a solvent

105
Q

how is lyocell made

A

wood pulp from sustainable sources is dissolved into a polymer solution using a solvent

106
Q

what type of spinning is modal made with

A

wet spinning

107
Q

what types of spinning is lyocell made with

A

closed loop system

108
Q

what is a closed loop system

A

cellulose from the wood pulp is regenerated in a similar way to wet spinning but water is used to wash and remove the solvent. the water and solvent are recovered and used for the closed loop system

109
Q

properties of regenerated fibres

A

-high absorbency
-shape can be changed using spinnerettes
-take dye and printing techniques well
-nonstatic
-easy care
-breathable
-low ability to trap air- so cool to wear
-ok resistance to creasing
-soft handle
-low resistance to damage from sunlight, bleach and microorganisms
-biodegradable and recyclable

110
Q

information about first generation fibres

A

viscose:
-more absorbent than cotton and other regenerated fibres
acetate:
-lower absorbency
-prone to static
-more elastic than others but creases easily
-thermoplastic capabilities
- subdued lustre and elegant shape

111
Q

information about new generation fibres

A

modal:
-streched more awhen spinning so stronger
-silky smooth, very soft handle and drape
lyocell
-strong
-doesnt crease
-biogradable and recyclable

112
Q

what are the general charcteristics of synthetic fibres

A
  • mostly manufactured using the melt spinning process
    -cross section can be engineered to give different properties and characteristics
    -coloured during manufacturing process
    -filament fibres can be textured or cut up into staple fibres
    -thermoplastic so can be heat set
113
Q

facts about polymide

A

produces a continuous
filament fibre
textured or cut into staple fibres

114
Q

propertes of polymide

A

-low absorbeny
-static
-strong and durable
-abrasion resistance
-good elasticity
-low flammability
-thermoplastic
-lightweight
-weakens in sunlight and chlorine bleach
-resistent to chemicals and micro organisms

115
Q

uses for polymide

A

tents
umbrellas

carpets

116
Q

what are aramids

A

technical textiles developed from polymide
kevlar
nomex

117
Q

properties of aramids

A

-greater strength and durability
-stab and tear resistant
-fine and lightweight
-flexible

118
Q

uses for aramids

A

bullet and stab proof vests
motor sport clothing
industrial work wear

119
Q

what is polyester

A

produced in smooth continuous filaments
textured or cut into staple fibres

120
Q

properties of polyester

A

-most commonly used
- very highthermoplasticity
-low flammability
-doesnt weaken in sunlight
-recycled
-good elasticity

121
Q

what is polyester used for

A

a wide range of clothing

bed sheeting
lining fabric
wadding

122
Q

what is acrylic

A

spun using wet or dry
mostly used as bulky staple fibres

123
Q

properties of acrylic

A

-low absorbency
-prone to static
-strong
-sensitive to heat
-flammable
-elasticity is high- crease resistant
-good thermal qualities
-wool like handle
-poor lustre

124
Q

what is acrylic used for

A

knitting yarn
knitwear
fake fur

carpet
soft furnishings

125
Q

what are chlorofibres (polyvinyl)

A

used in staple or filament form or as a coating

126
Q

properties of chlorofibres

A

-strong
-durable
-breathable
-good insulator
-PVC can be recycled

127
Q

uses for cholorfibres

A

raincoats
showerproof coatings
thermal clothing
active sports wear
socks and underwear

128
Q

what are fluorofibres (PTFE)

A

used mainly as a coating
trade name- teflon

129
Q

properties of fluorofibres

A

when it is applied to a fabric as a finishing the fabric is:
-water repellent and stain resistant
-easy care and less energy is needed to dry the fabric
-breathable and windproof

130
Q

uses for flourofibres

A

protect fabrics
workwear
soft furnishings
shoes

131
Q

what are elastometrics (elastane)

A

always used in the core of a core spun yarn and combined with another fibre
brand name = lycra

132
Q

properties of elastomeric

A

-low absorbency
-easy care
-tear resistant
-durable
-fine and lightweight
-high degree of comfort as allows free movement

133
Q

uses for elastomerics

A

1-2% in socks
15-20% as needed in swimwear and sports wear

134
Q

what are organic fibres

A

they are not synthetic polymers but are included in the man made fibre classification

135
Q

what is the source of glass (fibreglass)

A

powdered mineral compounds

136
Q

processing method of glass

A

direct melt method is used to draw filament glass fibres from the molten mineral compound
fibres can be filament or cut into staple fibres

137
Q

what are the properties of glass

A

-high tensile strength
-poor abrasion resistance
-high heat resistance
-unaffected by sunlight, chemicals and microorganism attack
-non stick and non toxic

138
Q

uses for glass

A

insulation material in buildings
flame retardent fabric
hospital wall coverings

139
Q

what is the source of carbon (graphite fibre)

A

carbon created by burning acrylic fibre

140
Q

processing method for carbon

A

fibres are twisted together to form a yarn that can be used by itself or made into a fabric

141
Q

properties of carbon

A

-strong
-lightweight
-abrasion and tear resistant
-flame resistant
-resistant to chemicals

142
Q

uses for carbon

A

protective clothing
intelligent elctro-conductive fabrics for e-textiles
aeroplane interiors
production of nanofibres

143
Q

source of metal

A

copper, aluminium and steel for common uses
titanium, gold and silver for special uses

144
Q

processing method for metal

A

very thin layers of metal are laminated between clear film and cut length wise into clear strips
alternatively, metal is heated until it vaporises and deposits at high pressure on to polyester fibres

145
Q

properties of metal fibres

A

-strong, abrasion resistant
-lightweight
-withstand high temps
-good conductor of heat and electricity
-antibacterial
-anti static
-stiff handle
-high lustre

146
Q

uses for metal

A

decoraticve fabric trims
used to prevent build up of bacteria in sports clothes
conductive sewing thread in e textiles

147
Q

source of ceramic

A

poowdered inorganic, non-metallic materials. carbon and sillicon are also classed as ceramics

148
Q

processing method of ceramics

A

incorporated into synthetic fibres by coating them with ceramic particles or encapsulating them in the fibre

149
Q

properties of ceramic

A

-resistant up to 1000 degrees +
-lightweight
-resistant to chemicals
-produces fabrics with uv protection
-heat deflection properties to regulate body temp

150
Q

uses for ceramic

A

industrial work wear
swimwear
nano fibres
bioceramic fabrics

151
Q

how can yarns be made

A

from staple fibers or filament fibers
using the twisting or winding process

152
Q

what do low level twists produce

A

weaker, softer, bulkier yarn
its easier to form a raised nap

153
Q

what do high level twists produce

A

stronger, smoother, denser yarn
too much twist will make the yarn crinkly

154
Q

what does tex mean

A

the metric system used to state the thickness of yarn

155
Q

what does dernier mean

A

a measure of thickness used for all filaments of yarn
higher the dernier, the thicker the yarn

156
Q

what is a staple yarn

A

yarns made with staple fibres
staple yarns are hairy and give fabrics a soft and fuller handle
good insulators
weaker than filament and more expensive to manufacture

157
Q

whats a filament yarn

A

smoother and more regular than staple yarns
give fabric more compact handle
high degree of lustre but doesn’t insulate

158
Q

what are single yarns

A

also called one ply
a continous single thread of twisted staple or filament fiber, or monofilamnet grouped together but not twisted

159
Q

what are plied yarns

A

made by twisting two or more single yarns together
twisting the yarns together in the opposite direction
achieves uniform thickness and strength

160
Q

what are core spun yarns

A

multicomponent yarns
they have a filament core and a sheath made form either filament or staple yarn

161
Q

methods of core spinning

A
  • twisting a sheath of staple or filament yarn around a filament core made from a different fiber
  • making a core yarn with an elastane fiber, the elastane filament is stretched and then covered in a sheath of non elastic fibers. the sheathed yarns are wrapped in the opposite direction to balance the core spun yarn
162
Q

what are textured yarns

A

adds interest and bulk to yarns
most rely on thermoplasticity os man made fibers

163
Q

methods of texturing yarns

A
  • false twist texturing- smooth thermoplastic filament yarn is tightly twisted, heat set and then untwisted
  • airjet texturing- doesn’t depend in thermoplastic properties. jet of air creates loops and tangles
164
Q

what are fancy yarns

A

change the appearance and handle of fabrics by adding irregularities and other effects using special spinning process
usually have core, binder and effect yarn
can provide multicolour effects by mixing fibres dyed different colours or plying different coloured yarns

165
Q

what is boucle yarn

A

fancy yarn
looped effect yar can add colour and give a bumpy feel to woven or knitted fabrics

166
Q

what is slub yarn

A

fancy yarn
made by changing the spinning speed at irregular intervals to produce yarn with thicker and thinner sections. gives uneven texture texture similar to fabrics made from linen

167
Q

what is chenille yarn

A

made by weaving and then cutting an open net type fabric into strips. cut fibres jut out around the central core giving fabrics a fuzzy, bulky and soft appearance

168
Q

what are metallised yarns

A

an iridescent effect and is used to make fabrics such as lame and brocades

169
Q

why do you blend and mix yarns

A

to combine properties and create a fibre with specific properties for use

170
Q

how are yarn blends achieved

A

spinning two or more different fibres together to make a yarn
staple yarns need to be the same length

171
Q

how are mix fabrics made

A

using different fibres in the warp and the weft

172
Q

what are the main performance reasons for blending yarns

A
  • to make a fabric stronger and more abrasion resistant
  • to make a fabric more easy to care for and less prone to shrinking and creasing
  • to give improved comfort and absorbency
  • to give thermo plastic qualities
173
Q

what are the main aesthetic appearance reasons for blending yarns

A
  • to improve the texture and handle of a fabric
  • to give a novelty effect (dye)
  • to give improved color and lustre
174
Q

what are the main additional advantages for blending yarns (not including performance and appearance)

A
  • reduces costs if cheaper fibre is used
  • allows for quicker washing and drying times which is better for the environment
175
Q

disadvantages fir blending yarns

A
  • polyester and cotton blends burn fiercly at high temperatures and give off toxic fumes. cotton sets alight easily and holds the polyester in place which drips and burns
176
Q

name popular yarn blends

A

-polyester cotton
-viscose and nylon
-wool and nylon
-cotton and lycra
-silk and polyester
-silk and cotton

177
Q

different types of weave

A

plain
twill
satin

178
Q

characteristics of plain weave

A
  • simple and cheap
  • strong
  • plain, firm surface so good for printing
  • same on both sides
  • ## easy to incorporate dyes and fancy yarns
179
Q

examples of fabrics and used for plain weave

A

broderie anglaise
calico
canvas
chiffon
winceyette
taffeta
voile
chambray
madras
organdie
poplin

used on shirts and sheeting

180
Q
A

textiles (1 decks)

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