❌Paper 1 - Section B - Coastal Landscapes and Change Flashcards
Define littoral zone
Wider coastal zone including nearby land and shallow parts of sea offshore.
It constantly changes as it is subject to wave action — short and long term factors i.e., tides, climate change
What is a sub-zone, and name the 4
A sub-zone is a smaller section within the littoral zone.
Starting from furthest inland outwards:
- Back shore:
Only affected by waves during major storms and spring tides - Foreshore:
Part of shore between high and low tide watermarks - Nearshore:
Shallow waters nearest the land - Offshore:
The open sea
What are the 4 coastal inputs, -> 5 geomorphic processes, -> 3 outputs
Inputs:
- Marine I.e waves, tides
- Atmospheric i.e weather, climate change
- Land I.e rock type, tectonic activity
- People I.e human activity, coastal management
Processes:
- Weathering
- Mass movement
- Erosion
- Transport
- Deposition
Outputs:
- Erosional landforms
- Depositional landforms
- Different types of coasts
What is a littoral cell
Self contained section of coast. Sediment within the cell is only circulated within that cell and doesn’t affect neighbouring sections
By what characteristics can coasts be classified?
- Their geology
Rock content, concordant discordant etc - Their level of energy
High or low - Balance between erosion and deposition
Either Erosional or depositional features - Changes in sea level
Emergent or submergent coasts
Describe a concordant coastline
beds or layers of differing rock type are folded into ridges that run PARALLEL to the coast
Describe a discordant coast
Bands of differing rock type run PERPENDICULAR to the coast
What are the 3 rock types?
- Igneous
Formed from cooling magma - Sedimentary
Rocks Changed by heat or pressure - Metamorphic
Made when eroded material is laid down in layers
What is valentines coasts classification?
1952
It describes the range of coastlines that can occur.
An advancing coastline may be due to land emerging or deposition
A retreating coastline may be due to land submerging or erosion
Emergent or submergent coasts may be due to post-glacial adjustment (land ‘wobbles’ as glacier above melts): ISOSTATIC SEA-LEVEL CHANGE
Name 5 rock geological features that can occur on cliff profiles and what they are (think strata, cracks etc)
-
Joints
Vertical cracks caused by contraction as sediment drys out -
Dip
Angle at which rock strata lies (horizontal, vertical, dipping inland etc) -
Folds
Formed by pressure during tectonic activity, makes rocks crumple -
Bedding planes
Horizontal cracks, natural breaks in strata caused by gaps in time during rock formation periods -
Strata
Layers of rock
What factors determine morphology of coastline? (Think in terms of the rock)
- lithology of rock
- relief and slope (cliff profiles)
- rock type (sedimentary, igneous etc)
- permeability of rock
- hardness of rock, it’s resistance to erosion
What is mechanical / physical weathering? (Describe our 3 examples)
Breakdown of rocks into fragments
May be caused by freeze-thaw shattering, salt crystallisation, wetting and drying etc
FREEZE THAW: water gets into rock cracks and freezes — expands water by 10%. Repeated action puts pressure on rocks til they crack.
WETTING AND DRYING: clay rich rocks expand when wet, contract when dry — cracks
SALT CRYSTALLISATION: salt crystals deposited into cracks, over time salt accumulates and applies pressure to cracks
Shards (scree) gather at bottom of cliffs
What is biological weathering?
Mechanical when there is a physical effect
I.e plants growing roots — widens cracks.
Burrowing animals erodes cliff material
What is chemical weathering?
Involves decomposition of rocks (changing of minerals) as a result of weak chemical reaction between rock and water i.e limestone
Mass movement: what are flows? (And 3 types)
Flows: occur when fine grained sediment I.e silt and clay mix with water and lose their cohesion: flow downhill from gravity
- Soil creep: individual soil particles move downhill (slow but continuous)
-
Solifluction: (tundra) top layer of soil thaws in warmer summers but below layer remains frozen: PERMAFROST.
Surface layer flows over subsoil and rock below (5cm to 1m per year) - Mudflow: heavy rain causes reduction in friction — earth turns into mud and flows slowly over bedrock
Mass movement: what are slides? (And 2 types?)
Slides: occurs when a portion of soil or rock along a steep slope suddenly gives way and moves downhill — aided by rainfall
- Rock fall: when mechanical weathering I.e freeze thaw breaks down large chunks of cliff away. Cliff has to be at angle of 40° or more
- Rock debris / landslide: lots of rainwater or waves can reduce friction — slabs of rock slide over underlying rock.
Mass movement: what are slumps / under what conditions does it occur?
Slumps: Rotational movement of soil / debris moves downhill — steeper slopes experience rotational scars.
> This can repeat, forming a terraced cliff
Occurs in saturated conditions
What are subaerial processes?
Processes occurring ‘at the base of the atmosphere’ which includes mass movement and weathering
What factors affect erosion rate of cliffs / shorelines etc?
- high energy waves (I.e winds)
- absence of a beach
- rising sea levels
- coastal management / sea defences elsewhere along coast
- weathering / mass movement processes
Describe the 4 erosion processes that chip rock away from cliff faces:
-
Hydraulic action:
Air trapped in cracks is compressed by force of waves; dislodges rock from cliffs -
Abrasion:
Sediment picked up by breaking waves is thrown against cliff face; chisels away at cliff face -
Attrition:
(process acts on already eroded sediment) sediment gets moved around by waves; gets smaller / rounded over time -
Corrosion:
carbonate rocks are vulnerable to solution by rainwater and spray from seawater
Describe the 4 processes of transportation (size order)
LARGEST
-
Traction:
rocks / boulders roll along riverbed by force of water -
Saltation:
Stones / pebbles bounce along channel and hit each other -
Suspension:
Fine silt particles hang in water (makes it cloudy) -
Solution:
Minerals dissolve in water
SMALLEST
In 4 steps, describe longshore drift
- Waves approach shoreline at an angle due to wind etc 30°
- Waves push sediment in this direction and up the beach in the swash
- Due to gravity the wave then carries sediment back down the beach in backswash
- Over time this changes the beaches shape
Groynes prevent longshore drift as the carries sediment is deposited against them keeping the sediment within that beach section
What 3 factors affect wave energy? (Think wind)
-
Wind speed:
Higher windspeed means more wave energy -
Fetch:
Distance of open water over which a wave has travelled across makes a big difference on wave height and energy.
Larger fetch gives wave more chance to ‘grow’ -
Wind duration:
with a longer storm, the waves will be bigger
Define weathering
Decay and disintegration of rocks in-situ. 3 types: mechanical, biological and chemical
Define erosion
Action of surface processes that removes soil, rock or dissolved material from one location to another
Why do waves break?
As you approach the shore, the depth of water is less, and the seabed is rough
Water at surface moves at faster rates than water deeper down
The circular orbit of water particles changes to an elliptical shape
Wavelength and velocity both decrease and wave amplitude increases
Force pushes the wave higher, making it steeper before it spills and breaks onshore
Water rushes up the beach as swash, and flows back to sea as backwash
Characteristics of a constructive wave? And what does this mean for erosion / deposition levels
- strong swash and weak backswash
- deposition > erosion
- low wave height and long wavelength
Characteristics of a destructive wave? And what does this mean for erosion / deposition levels
- weak swash and strong backswash
- erosion > deposition
- high wave height, short wavelength
Name the 6 depositional features (of beaches)
- Beaches:
Formed by constructive waves piling up material ahead of them - Bars:
Joins 2 headlands - Spits:
Bank of sand / shingle protruding from coast into sea - Tombolo:
Where a spit links the mainland to an island - Sand dunes:
Hill or ridge beyond the reach of the tides - Cuspate Foreland:
Where 2 sediment cells converge to cause an accumulation of sediment
(Sediment cells) what are sources, transfers and sinks?
Sources:
Locations that sediment is removed from
Transfers:
Process that moves sediment between sources and sinks
Sinks:
Areas and landforms where sediment is stored
How many sediment cells are there in the UK?
11
What happens in a sediment cell / what are they?
Within each sediment cell, sediment moves between the beach, cliffs and sea through processes of erosion, transportation and deposition
Each cell operates between physical barriers that prevent the sediment from moving any further along the coast i.e estuaries
SEDIMENT BUDGET:
Amount of sediment available within a sediment cell
What is positive feedback / what is happening to the sediment budget / what is happening with rates of erosion and deposition?
If the sediment budget falls, waves continue to transport sediment (erosion may increase in some other areas)
One change has lead to another
I.e people walking over sand dunes destroys vegetation growing there and causes erosion
As destroyed roots from the vegetation have been holding the sand dune together, dunes are more susceptible to erosion
Eventually the dunes will be completely eroded leaving more of the beach open to erosion taking the beach further away from dynamic equilibrium
What is going on with the negative feedback loop concerning the sediment budget? + provide an example
Sediment budget increases, and more deposition is likely. The sea corrects itself as it can only carry so much.
Any surplus is deposited
I.e when destructive waves from a storm lose their energy excess sediment is deposited as an offshore bar
Bar dissipates wave energy protecting the coast from further erosion
Over time the bar gets eroded instead of the beach
Once the bar has gone normal conditions ensue and system goes back to dynamic equilibrium
What is the difference between isostatic and eustatic change?
Isostatic:
Occurs locally, when land rises or falls relative to the sea.
- Weight of glaciers makes land sink
- tectonic activity can shift the land
Eustatic:
Occurs on a global scale and relatively quickly, in glacial periods ice sheets form which stores water that was once stored in the ocean (now deducted from ocean)
Why will sea level rise happen?
- melting glaciers
- melting of ice sheets I.e Antarctic and Greenland
- thermal expansion
What are the 3 natural causes of coastal flooding?
3 main causes:
-
Spring tides
(Gravity of moon and sun combine) -
Storm surges
(Short term local rise in sea level due to low air pressure) -
Rising sea levels
Long term eustatic sea-level change
What are depressions in terms of weather / what causes them to form?
Intense low pressure weather systems.
They occur when a fast moving area of cold air moves into a region of warmer air, pushing this warmer air upwards. As it rises, air pressure falls
What 5 factors affect the risk from coastal flooding?
- Low lying coastal land where land is <10m above sea level
- Coastal topography, where coastline is too narrow to form tunnels
- Subsidence, (sinking of land relative to sea level)
- Removal of coastal vegetation i.e mangroves which helps bind sediment together and absorbs energy from tidal surges
- Eustatic sea level rise caused by global warming leading to thermal expansion and ice sheets melting
In what 3 ways do plants stabilise sandy coastlines?
- Roots of plants hold sediment together
- When submerged, surrounding plants protect sediment from moving water
- Plants protect sediment from from wind erosion
What is a mangrove swamp?
Mangrove swamp:
A collection of trees that are suited to
Coastal environments. Found in tropical waters and provide habitat for young fish
What are the 5 geomorphic process categories?
- Erosion
- Transportation
- Deposition
- Weathering
- Mass movement
What is soft engineering?
An approach designed to work with natural processes in the coastal system in order to manage (not necessarily prevent) erosion
What is hard engineering?
This involves building structures along the coast (usually at the base of the cliff or on a beach)
What factors are considered when choosing either soft or hard engineering?
- whether you are protecting against flooding or erosion
- what the land is currently being used for
- how much money you will have
- where in the sediment cell the site is located
Name some examples of hard engineering and a pro / con for each
-
Rip-rap (rock armour)
- large boulders piled up
- breaks up wave energy
- at base of sea walls
Pro: reduces wave energy
Con: may become vegetated over time
£100-300k for 100 metres
-
rock breakwater
- large boulders piled up
- forces waves to break offshore rather than at coast
- reduces wave energy
Pro: deposition encouraged between breakwater and beach
Con: can interfere with longshore drift
£100-300k
-
sea wall
- concrete with steel reinforcement
- physical barrier against erosion
- act as flood barriers
Con: destruction of natural cliff face and foreshore environment
£6000 per metre
-
revetments
- made of stone, timber or interlocking concrete
- absorbs wave energy and reduces swash distance by encouraging infiltration
- reduce erosion on dune faces
Pro: reduce wave power
Con: may become vegetated
£4500 per metre
-
Groynes
- vertical stone or timber fences built perpendicular to the coast
- prevents longshore movement of sediment
£5000-10000 each
- encourages deposition
Pro: prevents longshore drift and sediment starvation
Name some examples of soft engineering and a pro / con for each
-
Beach nourishment
- addition of sand or pebbles to an existing beach making it higher / wider
- sediment dredged from nearby seabed
Pro: relatively cheap to maintain
Pro: increases tourist potential - more space
Con: needs constant maintenance
£300000 for 100 metre
-
Dune stabilisation
- marram grass planted to stabilise dunes
Pro: maintains a natural cost environment
Pro: provides wildlife habitats
Pro: relatively cheap
Con: time consuming to plant + grow
£200-2000 per 100 metre
-
Marsh creation
- form of managed retreat
-allows low lying coastal areas to flood, becomes a salt marsh
Pro: relatively cheap
Pro: wildlife habitat
Pro: natural defence - buffer for powerful waves
Con: agricultural land is lost
Cost is variable
What are the 4 preferred shoreline management policies / plans (SMP’s)? And a -ve and +ve for each
-
No active intervention
Pro: no costs
Con: users of the land would be losers when it erodes -
Hold the existing shoreline
Pro: no loss of infrastructure
Con: more expensive -
Managed realignment of the shoreline
Pro: creating things like salt marshes is biodiverse
Con: users of the land will be losers when it erodes -
Advance the existing shoreline
Pro: protects against flooding, reduces erosion
Con: won’t last forever
What is cost benefit analysis?
It is completed before a coastal management project is approved.
Costs are forecast and then compared with the expected benefits i.e, value of land saved, relocating people etc
Costs / benefits in 2 categories
- Tangible;
Costs and benefits are known and given a monetary value
2; intangible;
Costs may be difficult to assess but are important
Benefits > costs is ideal
What is an environmental impact assessment / what factors is it based on?
Completed before a coastal management project is approved
Quantitative means of estimating the environmental changes arising from a proposal
Based off of:
- environmental
- economic
- social factors
(Managing coastlines) what does engineering feasibility question?
- is it the right method?
- is it achievable?
- is it within budget?
- what are the risks?
(Managing the coast) what land use and value factors are considered?
- what is the coast used for, how much is it worth?
- what grade (1-5) is the agricultural land graded from?
(Managing the coasts) what political, environmental, economic and social reasons are there for managing coastlines?
- agriculture is a key employer in certain coastal areas
- tourism is a key industry along coasts
- prevent people needing to relocate
- may be routes that allow people to get to work (supports the economy) that need preserving
Define aquaculture:
Farming of aquatic organisms i.e., shellfish for food