❌Paper 1 - Section B - Coastal Landscapes and Change Flashcards
Define littoral zone
Wider coastal zone including nearby land and shallow parts of sea offshore.
It constantly changes as it is subject to wave action — short and long term factors i.e., tides, climate change
What is a sub-zone, and name the 4
A sub-zone is a smaller section within the littoral zone.
Starting from furthest inland outwards:
- Back shore:
Only affected by waves during major storms and spring tides - Foreshore:
Part of shore between high and low tide watermarks - Nearshore:
Shallow waters nearest the land - Offshore:
The open sea
What are the 4 coastal inputs, -> 5 geomorphic processes, -> 3 outputs
Inputs:
- Marine I.e waves, tides
- Atmospheric i.e weather, climate change
- Land I.e rock type, tectonic activity
- People I.e human activity, coastal management
Processes:
- Weathering
- Mass movement
- Erosion
- Transport
- Deposition
Outputs:
- Erosional landforms
- Depositional landforms
- Different types of coasts
What is a littoral cell
Self contained section of coast. Sediment within the cell is only circulated within that cell and doesn’t affect neighbouring sections
By what characteristics can coasts be classified?
- Their geology
Rock content, concordant discordant etc - Their level of energy
High or low - Balance between erosion and deposition
Either Erosional or depositional features - Changes in sea level
Emergent or submergent coasts
Describe a concordant coastline
beds or layers of differing rock type are folded into ridges that run PARALLEL to the coast
Describe a discordant coast
Bands of differing rock type run PERPENDICULAR to the coast
What are the 3 rock types?
- Igneous
Formed from cooling magma - Sedimentary
Rocks Changed by heat or pressure - Metamorphic
Made when eroded material is laid down in layers
What is valentines coasts classification?
1952
It describes the range of coastlines that can occur.
An advancing coastline may be due to land emerging or deposition
A retreating coastline may be due to land submerging or erosion
Emergent or submergent coasts may be due to post-glacial adjustment (land ‘wobbles’ as glacier above melts): ISOSTATIC SEA-LEVEL CHANGE
Name 5 rock geological features that can occur on cliff profiles and what they are (think strata, cracks etc)
-
Joints
Vertical cracks caused by contraction as sediment drys out -
Dip
Angle at which rock strata lies (horizontal, vertical, dipping inland etc) -
Folds
Formed by pressure during tectonic activity, makes rocks crumple -
Bedding planes
Horizontal cracks, natural breaks in strata caused by gaps in time during rock formation periods -
Strata
Layers of rock
What factors determine morphology of coastline? (Think in terms of the rock)
- lithology of rock
- relief and slope (cliff profiles)
- rock type (sedimentary, igneous etc)
- permeability of rock
- hardness of rock, it’s resistance to erosion
What is mechanical / physical weathering? (Describe our 3 examples)
Breakdown of rocks into fragments
May be caused by freeze-thaw shattering, salt crystallisation, wetting and drying etc
FREEZE THAW: water gets into rock cracks and freezes — expands water by 10%. Repeated action puts pressure on rocks til they crack.
WETTING AND DRYING: clay rich rocks expand when wet, contract when dry — cracks
SALT CRYSTALLISATION: salt crystals deposited into cracks, over time salt accumulates and applies pressure to cracks
Shards (scree) gather at bottom of cliffs
What is biological weathering?
Mechanical when there is a physical effect
I.e plants growing roots — widens cracks.
Burrowing animals erodes cliff material
What is chemical weathering?
Involves decomposition of rocks (changing of minerals) as a result of weak chemical reaction between rock and water i.e limestone
Mass movement: what are flows? (And 3 types)
Flows: occur when fine grained sediment I.e silt and clay mix with water and lose their cohesion: flow downhill from gravity
- Soil creep: individual soil particles move downhill (slow but continuous)
-
Solifluction: (tundra) top layer of soil thaws in warmer summers but below layer remains frozen: PERMAFROST.
Surface layer flows over subsoil and rock below (5cm to 1m per year) - Mudflow: heavy rain causes reduction in friction — earth turns into mud and flows slowly over bedrock
Mass movement: what are slides? (And 2 types?)
Slides: occurs when a portion of soil or rock along a steep slope suddenly gives way and moves downhill — aided by rainfall
- Rock fall: when mechanical weathering I.e freeze thaw breaks down large chunks of cliff away. Cliff has to be at angle of 40° or more
- Rock debris / landslide: lots of rainwater or waves can reduce friction — slabs of rock slide over underlying rock.
Mass movement: what are slumps / under what conditions does it occur?
Slumps: Rotational movement of soil / debris moves downhill — steeper slopes experience rotational scars.
> This can repeat, forming a terraced cliff
Occurs in saturated conditions
What are subaerial processes?
Processes occurring ‘at the base of the atmosphere’ which includes mass movement and weathering
What factors affect erosion rate of cliffs / shorelines etc?
- high energy waves (I.e winds)
- absence of a beach
- rising sea levels
- coastal management / sea defences elsewhere along coast
- weathering / mass movement processes
Describe the 4 erosion processes that chip rock away from cliff faces:
-
Hydraulic action:
Air trapped in cracks is compressed by force of waves; dislodges rock from cliffs -
Abrasion:
Sediment picked up by breaking waves is thrown against cliff face; chisels away at cliff face -
Attrition:
(process acts on already eroded sediment) sediment gets moved around by waves; gets smaller / rounded over time -
Corrosion:
carbonate rocks are vulnerable to solution by rainwater and spray from seawater
Describe the 4 processes of transportation (size order)
LARGEST
-
Traction:
rocks / boulders roll along riverbed by force of water -
Saltation:
Stones / pebbles bounce along channel and hit each other -
Suspension:
Fine silt particles hang in water (makes it cloudy) -
Solution:
Minerals dissolve in water
SMALLEST
In 4 steps, describe longshore drift
- Waves approach shoreline at an angle due to wind etc 30°
- Waves push sediment in this direction and up the beach in the swash
- Due to gravity the wave then carries sediment back down the beach in backswash
- Over time this changes the beaches shape
Groynes prevent longshore drift as the carries sediment is deposited against them keeping the sediment within that beach section
What 3 factors affect wave energy? (Think wind)
-
Wind speed:
Higher windspeed means more wave energy -
Fetch:
Distance of open water over which a wave has travelled across makes a big difference on wave height and energy.
Larger fetch gives wave more chance to ‘grow’ -
Wind duration:
with a longer storm, the waves will be bigger
Define weathering
Decay and disintegration of rocks in-situ. 3 types: mechanical, biological and chemical