OSX-2006 Flashcards
1
Q
What is a progressive wave?
A
Wave that moves energy from one location to another
2
Q
What are the three assumptions we make for the description of waves
A
constant density
No friction
Water surface displacement small compared with water depth
3
Q
what is wave phase speed
A
speed at which an individual progressive wave crest propagates
4
Q
What is dispersion
A
the fundamental relationship between
angular frequency
wavenumber
Water depth
5
Q
What are gravity waves in deep water?
A
Dispersive
Longer wavelength faster speed of propagation
6
Q
are the current affects felt at seabed for shallow water waves?
A
Yes current affects are felt at seabed for shallow water waves
as oscillating velocity does not vary with height above the bed
