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OCS Flashcards

0
Q

Where is DXAH on the color wheel

A

Levels 4/5

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1
Q

Where does LXAH on the color wheel

A

In levels 7/8

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2
Q

Where is the blue concentrate on the color wheel

A

Level 3

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3
Q

Where is the Violet concentrate on the color wheel

A

Level 5

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4
Q

What level is S on the color wheel

A

8

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5
Q

What level is Red concentrate on the color wheel?

A

Level 6

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6
Q

Where does the grey concentrate sit on the color wheel

A

Sits outside the color wheel

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7
Q

What are the multi tonal colors

A

4mo. 6tof and 8ca

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8
Q

Why are the multi-tonal colors not on the color wheel?

A

They have no major tones and so they can’t sit on the color wheel but they can be mixed freely with any other tone.

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9
Q

What are the 5 concentrates

A

Gold, red, blue, Violet, silver

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10
Q

What are the 2 additives that can be mixed to cool down a color

A

DXAH, LXAH

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11
Q

What is ammonia’s primary function in hair color

A

To raise the ph of the hair sufficiently so as to open the cuticle and allow color to enter the cortex of the hair

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12
Q

Why is it bad to raise the ph past 9

A

Because it’s physically impossible to return to its ideal ph after coloring.

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13
Q

What does it mean for the hair once the cuticle is raised to a point of no return

A

The hair continues to lose protein and moisture and their will also be an increase in color fade

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14
Q

True or false

As a result of the cuticle remaining open the percentage of pigment in the color needs to be as high as possible. It’s necessary since a high percentage of color will be lost when rinsing off the color

A

True

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15
Q

What have ammonia free lines replaced ammonia with and what does it do

A

Ethanolamine, it has the same 3 side effects as ammonia. They haven’t managed to decrease the ph.

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16
Q

What’s the key difference with organic color systems

A

The main ingredient raises the cuticle to a 9 instead of a 11/12 and it also is a conditioning agent so it softens the cuticle at the same time which gently raises the ph.

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17
Q

How is ethanolamine used in organic color systems

A

as a ph adjuster to increase the ph enough so the cuticle can be raised sufficiently to allow the color to deposit in the cortex

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18
Q

What ingredient in organic color systems neutralizes any residual ethanolamine and what is it derived from

A

Oleic acid it’s derived from olive oil

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19
Q

What is a neutral ph

A

4.5-5.5

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20
Q

What is the ph of organic color systems when mixed with activator

A

9.0

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21
Q

What is the ph of naturlite

A

10.5

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22
Q

What is the ph of the liquid and cream activators

A

3.0

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23
Q

What are the 5 steps for success with organic color systems

A

1, cleanse and clarify, 2. developer/activator 3. Application 4. Heat 5. Emulsify

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24
Q

Without ammonia you will get less lift then you’re used to. What will 20volume get you

A

The same level or darker and grey coverage

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25
Q

How many levels of lift will 30vol get you

A

1-2 levels of lift

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26
Q

How many levels will 40vol get you

A

2-3 levels of lift with the regular color and 3-4 with the 11 high lift series.

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27
Q

What temp should the dryer be at and why

A

104 degrees to slightly soften the cuticle, higher then that will cause a stronger degree of lift and cause more color fading and more damage

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28
Q

Why is it important to emulsify the color and allowing the water to run clear

A

The moisturizing oils that the color is suspended in must be mixed with the lathering agent contained in the color to be removed from the hair effectively with allows to seal the cuticle.

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29
Q

How long should you emulsify the color

A

3-5 min

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30
Q

What will happen if the cuticle is left open

A

The color deposit will be compromised

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31
Q

What type of activators should be used with the lighteners and why

A

Cream the lightener will turn into cement and be harder to apply

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32
Q

Which lightener is recommended for on scalp application and what ingredients are in it that make it more gentle

A

Blue lightener, hydrolysed wheat protein, bisabolol, propanedoil

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33
Q

Should you mix naturlite oil in with color to speed it up and why

A

No it should only be added to lightener it dilutes your color deposit

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34
Q

What are 7 tips for covering resistant grey

A

1) pretreat the hair twice with OCS Aqua boost or clarifying shampoo to soften the cuticle.
2) consider your method
3) use the nn series
4) adjust activator amount
5) cover hair and use 20 min under the dryer and 20 min cool
6) add warm water to hair and massage color for 5 min
7) rinse perform a wet stretch test and shampoo/condition

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35
Q

How are the NN series different from other color lines

A

They don’t contain more pigment, they have 10% less water and more oil to soften the cuticle more.

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36
Q

At what percentage of grey should you incorporate 50% of the NN series

A

At least 50%

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37
Q

Which activator should you use to achieve a Demi permanent

A

10volume

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38
Q

How long can high lift colors process

A

50 min 20 under dryer and the remainder at room temp.

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39
Q

What are high lift colors recommended for

A

To achieve 7 levels of lift

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40
Q

How are high lift colors mixed

A

1:2 ratio or 1:1 using 10vol for a toner

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41
Q

What can you use as a clear gloss and how do you mix it

A

Naturlite oil 1:1 ratio with 5 or 10volume

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42
Q

What is the most important thing to remember when using concentrates

A

They have a specific level.

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43
Q

What is a good guideline when mixing concentrates

A

Mix 50 ml of your color to 10ml of concentrate using 1:1 ratio. Except blue. Blue mix 2-5 ml since the level is a 3 unless working with darker colors.

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44
Q

Which lightener requires the naturlite oil for on scalp application and why

A

Original white formula, because it doesn’t have the same conditioning agents as the blue powder

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45
Q

True or false
When adding naturlite oil to a lightener it reduces the strength of the activator because it has conditioning ingredients

A

True

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46
Q

If you have a base root color and a highlight, you will need to put them under heat to get optimum results for the color. What developers should you use and why

A

Harmonics for the color retouch and blue lightener with 10volume cream. Hairmonics takes 10min under heat and 10volume won’t lighten too quick. Can use naturlite to slow it down further.

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47
Q

Why is it important to shake the lightener

A

It will prevent settling of the heavier particles and allowing all ingredients to be thoroughly mixed.

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48
Q

Predominate tones for 4GD

A

Yellow/Violet

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49
Q

Predominate tones for 5GD

A

Yellow/red

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50
Q

Predominate tones for 6GD

A

Yellow/red

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51
Q

Predominate tones for 7GD

A

Yellow/orange

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52
Q

Predominate tones for 9GD

A

Yellow

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53
Q

Predominate tones for 10GD

A

Yellow/green

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54
Q

Predominate tones for 4AH

A

Green

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55
Q

Predominate tones for 5AH

A

Green

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56
Q

Predominate tones for 6AH

A

Green

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57
Q

Predominate tones for 7AH

A

Green/blue

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58
Q

Predominate tones for 8AH

A

green/blue

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59
Q

Predominate tones for 10AH

A

Green/Violet

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60
Q

Predominate tones for 4CR

A

Orange/Violet

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61
Q

Predominate tones for 5CR

A

Orange/red

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62
Q

Predominate tones for 6CR

A

Orange /red

63
Q

Predominate tones for 7CR

A

Orange

64
Q

Predominate tones for 8CR

A

Orange/yellow

65
Q

Predominate tones for 4FR

A

Red/Violet

66
Q

Predominate tones for 5FR

A

Red/Violet

67
Q

Predominate tones for 7FR

A

Red/orange

68
Q

Predominate tones for 8FR

A

Red/yellow

69
Q

Predominate tones for 4MH

A

Violet

70
Q

Predominate tones for 5MH

A

Violet/red

71
Q

Predominate tones for 7MH

A

Violet/orange

72
Q

Predominate tones for 6BC

A

Red

73
Q

Predominate tones for 7BC

A

Red/orange

74
Q

Predominate tones for 8BC

A

Red/yellow

75
Q

Predominate tones for 5RC

A

Red

76
Q

Predominate tones for 6RC

A

Red

77
Q

Predominate tones for 7RC

A

Red/orange

78
Q

Predominate tones for 11HN

A

Blue/Violet

79
Q

Predominate tones for 11HA

A

Blue/green

80
Q

Predominate tones for 11HS

A

Violet

81
Q

Predominate of natural tones 1-N-10N

A

Blue/Violet

82
Q

Predominate natural tones of 4NN-8NN

A

Blue/Violet

83
Q

Predominate tones for 4MO

A

Multi-tone

84
Q

Predominate tones for 6TOF

A

Multi-tone

85
Q

Predominate tones for 8CA

A

Multi-tone

86
Q

Predominate tones for LXAH

A

Green

87
Q

Predominate tones for DXAH

A

Green

88
Q

Level of blue concentrate

A

2/3

89
Q

Level of Violet concentrate

A

Level 5

90
Q

Level of red concentrate

A

Level 6

91
Q

Level grey concentrate

A

6/7

92
Q

Level of gold concentrate

A

Level 7

93
Q

Level of silver concentrate

A

Level 8

94
Q

Which lightener is faster and stronger

A

Original white

95
Q

What are the 3 pigments that exist in Haircoloring

A

PPD, PTD and henna

96
Q

What can you use to remove henna and how long do you leave it on

A

Vodka at a shampoo bowl for 20min

97
Q

Which developers are enzyme based that work faster and you process for less time and used for grey resistant hair

A

Hairmonics

98
Q

What is the max to process high lift colors under a dryer

A

Up to 30 min under a dryer

99
Q

What is the percentage of certified organic ingredients in organic color systems

A

98-99%

100
Q

Organic Color Systems is derived from 98-99% certified organic ingredients what are the other 2% derived from

A

Naturally derived from fragrance

101
Q

What is our ethanolamine derived from

A

Naturally derived from coconut

102
Q

What does it mean if an ammonia free line does not require heat to process

A

They are using the same percentage as ammonia to open the cuticle.

103
Q

What is the percentage of PPD found in our color

A

0.4% level 1 has 1%

104
Q

How much PPD do most lines have?

A

10%

105
Q

What does it mean for a line to be PPD free?

A

They use a larger amount of PTD

106
Q

What is the organic salon system

A 
Analyze the hair 
Treat and prepare the canvas
Change 
Optimize 
Style 
Educate 
Home care
107
Q

Why is it important to perform a wet stretch test

A

By analyzing the elasticity it will provide you with clear indications of the hairs protein and moisture balance for optimum color results.

108
Q

If the hair turns green or teal when you lift that means

A

They have cocaine in their system

109
Q

If the hair turns orange when you lift and their underlying pigment wouldn’t indicate it to have Orange that means

A

Hormonal imbalance or they have too much minerals and iron in their diet.

110
Q

What are the 5 things when analyzing the hair you must consider before formulating

A 
Elasticity 
Hair diameter 
Porosity
Workup (full chemical service and history 
Condition( mineralization and coating
111
Q

How do you perform a wet stretch test

A

1) separate about 10 strands of hair and spray with water
2) hold hair firmly between both hands
3) gently pull the hair away with moderate pressure
4) healthy hair should stretch near 30% of its length & return like an elastic band showing no signs of damage

112
Q

What is the ph of the clarifying shampoo

A

8.5

113
Q

What should you use if the client has a hot head

A

Aqua boost

114
Q

Hair that doesn’t stretch easily is low in what

What would you use to prepare it for color

A

Low in moisture you should use Aqua boost shampoo and treatment

115
Q

Hair that stretches but doesn’t return to its previous length is weak in what?
And what should you use to prepare it

A

Protein, use power build shampoo and treatment

116
Q

Hair that stretches and breaks is low in what, and what would you use to prepare

A

Use power build shampoo, reconstructor & revamp

117
Q

Hair that stretches and returns is healthy what should you use to prepare m

A

Status quo shampoo

118
Q

Understanding where you are and how to get to your destination is crucial, what steps must you consider to formulate

A 
Natural level/starting point 
Underlying tone
Remaining pigment contribution 
Desired level 
Desired tone 
Dimension options 
Proper formulation
119
Q

Are the extra brights direct dyes

How do you mix them

A

Not direct dyes must be mixed with an activator

120
Q

How long do you process no limits

A

30-40 min

121
Q

How long do the no limits last

A

6-12 shampoos

122
Q

What are the 7 laws of color

A
  1. Prepare your canvas
  2. Process under heat for permanent results
  3. Hair that doesn’t stretch will not accept color
  4. Without ammonia you get less lift
  5. Emulsify the color at shampoo bowl
  6. 95% of coverage issues are application
  7. Never use conditioner before your color
123
Q

What is the predominate tone of a level 1

A

Blue

124
Q

What is the predominate tone of a level 2

A

Blue-Violet

125
Q

What is the predominate tone of a level 3

A

Violet

126
Q

What is the predominate tone to a level 4

A

Violet-red

127
Q

What is the predominate tone to a level 5

A

Red

128
Q

What is the predominate tone to a level 6

A

Red-orange

129
Q

What is the predominate tone to a level 7

A

Orange

130
Q

What is the predominate tone to a level 8

A

Orange/yellow

131
Q

What is the predominate tone to a level 9

A

Yellow

132
Q

What is the predominate tone to a level 10

A

Yellow/blue

133
Q

What can you add to no limits to create a pastel shade

A

Aqua boost

134
Q

What are extra brights designed to do

A

Complement and increase tones in colors.

135
Q

Will extra brights work with out an activator

A

No

136
Q

What is the difference between concentrates and extra brights

A

Concentrates have a base tone and appear on the color wheel, the extra brights contain no base color they are true pigments

137
Q

What is the 0 activator used for

A

To dilute any activator

138
Q

How would you make a 20vol or 6% using 0%

A

1 part 0 to 1 part 40 or 12%

139
Q

How can you create an activator to tone or as a color wash using o%

A

Mixing 1 part 0 to 1 part 10 vol or 3%

140
Q

What is 10vol 3% activator designed for

A

To create a Demi-permanent color result. Ideal for first time color client, or color correction

141
Q

What is 20vol 6% designed for

A

Used to cover grey hair and for color on the same base or darker

142
Q

What is 30vol or 9% designed to do

A

Used for lifting 1-2 shades, some coverage on grey hair and brighter results

143
Q

How long should you process under heat for a Demi permanent result

A

10 min under heat and 20 min without

144
Q

For optimum color results why is it necessary to process under heat?

A

Because of our gentle action of organic color systems, it’s necessary to place a plastic cap over the color and place under heat, this will allow the cuticle to open and start the color development

145
Q

What would you use to remove the build up from 2-1 shampoos and henna, how is it applied

A

Shampoo hair twice using clarifying shampoo. Use a sponge and work vodka through the hair leave on for 15 min, rinse shampoo with Aqua boost shampoo twice. Leave 2nd lather on for 5 min rinse and apply power build treatment

146
Q

What ingredients are used in replacement of ammonia to gently open the cuticle

A

Soyamine, ethanolamine

147
Q

What is soyamine and how is it derived

A

A polymer made from fatty acids of soya beans. It acts as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is alkaline and so raises the ph of the hair, softening the cuticle, opening the ph much lower than ammonia. It’s naturally derived from soya bean

148
Q

What is oleic acid used for and what is it derived from

A

A fatty acid that occurs naturally in some foods. It’s a surfactant or cleansing agent, it neutralizes the ethanolamine, naturally derived from olive oil, as well as grape seed, sea buckthorn and sesame oil

149
Q

A clear viscous liquid used mainly in hair color and controls the ph is called a

A

Ethanolamine

150
Q

What is OCS ethanolamine derived from

A

Naturally from coconut

151
Q

What is hydrolysed wheat protein used for in OCS

A

Natural wheat protein, it provides a combination of moisture balancing and film forming properties that give hair better body, control and a smoother feel. Gives the hair shine and has amazing conditioning effects.

152
Q

What is ascorbic acid used for in OCS

A

It’s a natural vitamin c it slows down the deterioration of the product caused by exposure to the air. Antioxidants play a vital role in maintaining the quality integrity and safety of cosmetic products

153
Q

What is glyceryl cocoate used for

A

Naturally derived from coconut and glycerin, commonly used in hair color, shampoo to give it its moisturizing and the ability to emulsify .

154
Q

What percentage does OCS use of ethanolamine

A

0.6%

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