Oceans Flashcards
The size of the wave depends on:
- The distance the wind has blown over the sea.
- The length of time the wind has blown over the sea.
- The strength of the wave.
Oscillation waves
Waves that do not break
Translation waves
Waves that break
Swash
White water that runs up the beach.
Backwash.
Water that returns back down the beach.
Constructive waves.
Waves that build up the beach.
Destructive waves
Waves the erode the shore line.
Hydraulic action.
As waves break against the cliff face, the pressure of the breaking wave can compress air in cracks. The compressed air gradually forces open the crack in the rock. As this continues the rock becomes increasingly weaker.
Abrasion/ corrasion.
Rock fragments are hurled at cliffs by breaking waves gradually scrapping away at the cliff face.
Solution/ corrosion.
This occurs where the salt water is able to dissolve some of the chemicals in rocks. For example limestone cliffs are gradually weakened as the salt water dissolves the calcium carbonate in the limestone.
Attrition
Rock fragments are carried by the waves hit against each other and gradually wear down to form sand and silt.
What creates waves?
Friction between water and wind.