Oceanography Flashcards

1
Q

atoll

A

an island consisting of a circular coral reef surrounding a lagoon

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2
Q

barrier reef

A

A reef separated from the shoreline by the deeper water of a lagoon.

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3
Q

continental arc

A

mountains formed in part by volcanic activity caused by the subduction of oceanic lithosphere beneath a continent

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4
Q

continental drift

A

the hypothesis that the continents slowly move across Earth’s surface

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5
Q

continental transform fault

A

fault that cuts across a continent

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6
Q

convection cell

A

A circular pattern of air rising, air sinking, and wind.

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7
Q

convergent boundary

A

a plate boundary where two plates move toward each other

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8
Q

coral reef

A

diverse and productive environment named for the coral animals that make up its primary structure

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9
Q

divergent boundary

A

a plate boundary where two plates move away from each other

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10
Q

east pacific rise

A

oceanic rise between pacific and nazca plate. broad, low, gentle swelling of the sea floor with a small, indistinct central rift valley

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11
Q

fringing reef

A

A reef attached to the shore of a continent or island.

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12
Q

great barrier reef

A

largest coral reef in the world Austrailia

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13
Q

guyot

A

Flat-topped seamount (volcano)

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14
Q

hawaiian islands - emperor seamount chain

A

Island chains in the northern Pacific Ocean.

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15
Q

Harry Hess

A

developed the theory sea-floor spreading- ocean floors move like conveyor belts, carrying the continents along with them

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16
Q

hot spot

A

a concentration of heat in the mantle capable of producing magma, which rises to Earth’s surface; The Pacific Plate moves over a hot spot, producing the Hawaiian Islands

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17
Q

ice age

A

any period of time during which glaciers covered a large part of the earth’s surface

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18
Q

island arc

A

A string of islands formed by the volcanoes along a deep ocean trench

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19
Q

magnetic anomaly

A

evidence that the ocean floor is spreading apart. It shows that the earth’s magnetic field has reversed several times throughout the earth’s history

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20
Q

magnetic field

A

the area of magnetic force around a magnet

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21
Q

mantle plume

A

A mass of hotter-than-normal mantle material that ascends toward the surface, where it may lead to igneous activity.

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22
Q

mesosauras

A

an example of a species that helped support the continental drift hypothesis

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23
Q

mid-atlantic ridge

A

a long, continuous underwater mountain range, formed by volcanic outpourings from the asthenosphere, that lies roughly parallel to continental margins; the center is marked by a steep V

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24
Q

mid-ocean ridge

A

an underwater mountain chain where new ocean floor is formed

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25
Q

ocean trench

A

deep valley in the ocean floor that forms along a subduction zone

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26
Q

ocean ridge

A

A massive mountain range laying at the bottom of the sea. such as mid-atlantic

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27
Q

ocean rise

A

fast- spreading, gentle slopes

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28
Q

oceanic transform fault

A

A fault with side-to-side motion that offsets segments of a mid-ocean ridge. This kind of transform fault occurs wholly on the ocean floor.

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29
Q

paleomagnetism

A

The study of the alignment of magnetic minerals in rock,specifically as it relates to the reversal of Earth’s magnetic poles; also the magnetic properties that rock requires during formation

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30
Q

Pangaea

A

large, ancient landmass that was composed of all the continents joined together

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31
Q

polar wandering curve

A

magnetic pole was wandering or moving through time

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32
Q

polarity

A

the directional orientation of the magnetic field

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33
Q

rift valley

A

a deep valley that forms where two plates move apart.

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34
Q

rifting

A

The process of a landmass splitting apart

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35
Q

san andreas fault

A

a major geological fault in California

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36
Q

sea floor spreading

A

when two oceanic plates pull apart, magma rises and new crust is formed harry hess

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37
Q

seamount

A

an underwater mountain rising above the ocean floor cone shaped

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38
Q

spreading center

A

The region at the crest of a mid-ocean ridge, where new crust is being formed by seafloor spreading.

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39
Q

subduction

A

a geological process in which one edge of a crustal plate is forced sideways and downward into the mantle below another plate

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40
Q

subduction zone

A

the region where oceanic plates sink down into the asthenosphere

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41
Q

transform boundary

A

a plate boundary where two plates move past each other in opposite directions

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42
Q

transform fault

A

tectonic plates sliding past one another (ex. San Andreas fault).

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43
Q

transform faulting

A

movement of one plate past another-produces shallow but often strong earthquakes in the lithosphere

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44
Q

Frederick Vine

A

A geologist who, along with Drummond Matthews, combined the seemingly unrelated pattern of magnetic sea floor stripes with the process of sea floor spreading to explain the pattern of alternating and symmetric magnetic stripes on the sea floor.

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45
Q

volcanic arc

A

a chain of volcanic islands generally located a few hundred kilometers from a trench where there is active subduction of one oceanic plate beneath another

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46
Q

Alfred Wegner

A

scientist who came up with the continental drift theory

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47
Q

abyssal hill

A

A hill on the slope of a mid-ocean ridge about 100m high and lineated parallel to the ridge crest, formed by faulting of the basaltic oceanic crust as it moves out of the rift valley

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48
Q

abyssal plain

A

a large, flat, almost level area of the deep-ocean basin

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49
Q

active margin

A

located in areas where oceanic lithosphere is being subducted beneath the leading edge of the continent

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50
Q

bathymetry

A

measuring the depths of the oceans

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51
Q

black smoker

A

temps above 350 and emits water that is black containing metal sulfides

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52
Q

continental arc

A

Mountains formed in part by volcanic activity caused by the subduction of oceanic lithosphere beneath a continent. (Andes Mountains)

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53
Q

continental margin

A

The shallow sea floor that is located between the shoreline and the deep-ocean bottom

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54
Q

continental rise

A

transitional sloping surface at the base of the continental slope

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55
Q

continental shelf

A

The part of a continent that extends underwater, generally flat zone before the slope

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56
Q

continental slope

A

a steep incline of the ocean floor leading down from the edge of the continental shelf

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57
Q

convergent active margin

A

An active margin associated with oceanic-continental convergent plate boundaries.

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58
Q

deep-ocean basin

A

the part of the ocean floor that is under deep water beyond the continent margin and that is composed of oceanic crust and a thin layer of sediment

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59
Q

deep-sea fan

A

A cone-shaped deposit at the base of the continental slope. The sediment is transported to the fan by turbidity currents that follow submarine canyons., a cone-shaped deposit at the base of the continental slope. the sediment is transported to the fan by turbidity currents that follow submarine canyons

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60
Q

fathom

A

standard unit of ocean depth

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61
Q

fracture zone

A

similar to transform faults

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62
Q

graded bedding

A

sediments of different sizes and shapes settle to different levels

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63
Q

hypothermal vent

A

underwater openings from which hot, mineral-rich water flowed, where metabolic reactions began, minerals were deposited forming rocks with tiny chambers, the iron sulfide would donate hydrogen and electrons to dissolved CO2, forming organic molecules

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64
Q

island arc

A

A string of islands formed by the volcanoes along a deep-ocean trench. Islands of Japan

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65
Q

ocean trench

A

deep valley in the ocean floor that forms along a subduction zone

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66
Q

ocean rise

A

slopes that are gentler/less rugged

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67
Q

pacific ring of fire

A

occurs along the margins of the Pacific Ocean

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68
Q

passive margin

A

Embedded within the interior of the lithospheric plate

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69
Q

pillow basalt

A

smooth rounded lobes of rocks which resemble pillows

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70
Q

pillow lava

A

smooth rounded lobes of rocks which resemble pillows

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71
Q

precipitate

A

disolved metal particles mixed with cold seawater

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72
Q

shelf break

A

the outer edge of the continental shelf

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73
Q

submarine canyon

A

A deep, V-shaped valley running roughly perpendicular to the shoreline and cutting across the edge of the continental shelf and slope.

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74
Q

submarine fan

A

deposits at the bottom of the submarine canyons

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75
Q

transform active margin

A

associated with transform plate boundaries-create linear islands, banks, and deep basins close to shore (San Andreas Fault)

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76
Q

turbidite deposit

A

stacks of graded bedding of which continental rise is composed

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77
Q

turbidity current

A

Underwater “Avalanche” of abrasive sediments thought responsible for the deep sculpturing of submarine canyons and as a means for sediments accumulating on an abyssal plain

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78
Q

warm water vent

A

Have water temperatures below 30C and generally emit water that is clear in color.

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79
Q

white smoker

A

temps from 30-350C; precipitate barium sulfide

80
Q

acid

A

compound that releases hydrogen ions when disolved in water

81
Q

alkaline

A

a substance that releases hydroxide ions (OH) in a solution. Also called basic.

82
Q

atom

A

basic building blocks of all matter

83
Q

boiling point

A

the temperature at which a substance changes from a liquid to a gas

84
Q

brackish

A

low salinity water caused by the mixing of freshwater and saltwater

85
Q

calorie

A

unit of heat defined as the quantity of heat required to raise the temperature of 1 gram of water by 1 degree centigrade at atmospheric pressure

86
Q

chlorinity

A

the amount of chloride ion and ions of other halogens in ocean water expressed in parts per thousand by weight

87
Q

cohesion

A

the intermolecular attraction by which the elements of a body are held together

88
Q

condensation point

A

the temperature at which a gas becomes a liquid.

89
Q

condense

A

undergo condensation

90
Q

covalent bond

A

a chemical bond that involves sharing a pair of electrons between atoms in a molecule (H2O)

91
Q

deep water

A

The water beneath the permanent thermocline (and resulting pycnocline) that has a uniformly low temperature.

92
Q

dipolar

A

Having two poles. The water molecule possesses a polarity of electrical charge with one pole being more positive and the other more negative in electrical charge.

93
Q

electron

A

negatively charged particle; located outside the atomic nucleus

94
Q

evaporation

A

the process by which a liquid changes into a vapor

95
Q

freezing point

A

The temperature at which a liquid changes into a solid

96
Q

halocline

A

a layer of water in which a high rate of change in salinity in the vertical dimension is present

97
Q

heat

A

energy moving froma a high temperature system to a low temperature system

98
Q

heat capacity

A

The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of a specified amount of a substance by 1°C or 1 K.

99
Q

hydrogen bond

A

an intermolecular bond that forms within water because of the dipolar nature of water molecules

100
Q

hydrologic cycle

A

the cycle of water exchange among the atmosphere, land and ocean through the processes of evaporation, precipitation, runoff and subsurface percolation. Also called the water cycle

101
Q

hypersaline

A

waters that are highly or excessively saline

102
Q

ion

A

atom that has a positive or negative charge

103
Q

ionic bond

A

a chemical bond formed as a result of the electrical attraction

104
Q

latent heat of condensation

A

the heat energy that must be removed from one gram of substance to convert it from a vapor at a given temperature below its boiling point. For water its 585 calories at 20 degrees C

105
Q

latent heat of freezing

A

the heat energy that must be removed from one gram of substance at its melting point to convert it to a solid. For water it is 80 calories

106
Q

latent heat of melting

A

the heat energy that must be added to one gram of a substance at its melting point to be converted into a liquid. For water it is 80 calories

107
Q

latent heat of evaporation

A

the heat energy that is added to one gram of a liquid substance to convert it to a vapor at a given temp below its boiling point.

108
Q

latent heat of vaporization

A

the heat energy that must be added to one gram of a substance at its boiling point to convert it to a vapor.

109
Q

melting point

A

the temperature below which a liquid turns into a solid

110
Q

mixed surface layer

A

the surface layer of the ocean water mixed by wave and tide motions to produce relatively isothermal and isohaline conditions

111
Q

molecule

A

Two or more atoms held together by covalent bonds

112
Q

neutral

A

a state in which there is no excess of either the hydrogen or hydroxide ion

113
Q

neutron

A

an electrically neutral particle found in the nucleus of an atom

114
Q

nucleus

A

composed of protons and neutrons

115
Q

parts per thousand

A

how salinity is measured, is abbriviated PPT

116
Q

polarity

A

having an indicated pole (as the distinction between positive and negative electric charges)

117
Q

principle of constant proportions

A

Proportions of major conservative elements in seawater remain nearly constant, though salinity may change w/ location

118
Q

proton

A

a subatomic particle that has a positive charge and that is found in the nucleus of an atom

119
Q

pycnocline

A

a layer of water in which there is a rapid change of density with depth

120
Q

residence time

A

The average time a given particle will stay in a given system

121
Q

reverse osmosis

A

A desalinization process that involves forcing salt-water through a membrane permeable to water but not to salt

122
Q

runoff

A

water that runs into the ocean causing the salinity to decrease

123
Q

salinity

A

the relative proportion of salt in a solution

124
Q

salinometer

A

An electronic device that determines salinity by measuring the electrical conductivity of a seawater sample.

125
Q

specific heat

A

the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of 1g of a substance 1 degree Celsius

126
Q

surface tension

A

the tendency for the surface of a liquid to contract owing to intermolecular bond attraction

127
Q

temperature

A

the degree of hotness or coldness of a body or environment (corresponding to its molecular activity)

128
Q

thermocline

A

a layer of water in which there is a rapid change in temperature with depth.

129
Q

vapor

A

Describes the gaseous state of a substance that is generally a liquid or solid at room temperature

130
Q

subtropical gyre

A

a large, circular-moving loop of water that is centered at about 30 degrees latitude and is initiated by the trade winds and the prevailing westerlies

131
Q

western boundary currents

A

poleward-flowing warm currents on the western side of all subtropical gyres

132
Q

Ekman Spiral

A

theoretical consideration of the effect of a steady wind blowing over an ocean of unlimited depth and breadth and of uniform viscosity; result is a surface flow of 45 degrees to the right of the wind in the Northern Hemisphere

133
Q

Ekman Transport

A

the net transport of surface water set in motion by wind; it is theoretically in a direction of 90 degrees to the right and 90 degrees to the left of the wind direction in the Northern and Southern Hemisphere

134
Q

western intensification

A

pertaining to the intensification of warm western boundary currents of each subtropical gyre that are faster, narrower, and deeper than their corresponding eastern boundary currents

135
Q

upwelling

A

process by which deep, cold, nutrient-laden water is brought to the surface, usually by diverging equatorial currents or coastal currents that pull water away from a coast

136
Q

downwelling

A

in the open or coastal ocean, where Ekman transport causes surface water to converge or impinge on the coast, surface water that moves down beneath the surface

137
Q

coastal upwelling

A

movement of deeper nutrient-rich water into the surface water mass as a result of windblown surface water moving offshore

138
Q

coastal downwelling

A

wind blows water toward coastline, surface water forced downward, gases and nutrients go to deeper waters

139
Q

Gulf Stream

A

the high-intensity western boundary current of the North Atlantic Subtropical Gyre that flows north off the East Coast of the U.S.

140
Q

Sargasso Sea

A

a region of convergence in the North Atlantic lying south and east of Bermuda where the water is very clear, deep blue color, and contains large quantities of floating Sargassum

141
Q

California Current

A

the cold eastern boundary current of the North Pacific Subtropical Gyre

142
Q

El Niño

A

a southerly flowing warm current that generally develops off the coast of Ecuador around Christmas time

143
Q

La Niña

A

an occurrence in the Pacific in which trade winds increase, ocean temperatures decrease, and marine life flourishes

144
Q

Southern Oscillation

A

the periodic change in the pressure differential between the Southeastern Pacific high pressure and the Western Pacific equatorial low pressure that occurs in concert with El Nino-Southern Oscillation events

145
Q

thermohaline circulation

A

the vertical movement of ocean water driven by density differences resulting from the combined effects of variations in temperature and salinity; produces deep currents

146
Q

Antarctic Bottom Water

A

a water mass that forms in the Weddell Sea, sinks to the ocean floor, and spreads across the bottom of all oceans

147
Q

Antarctic Intermediate Water

A

Antarctic zone surface water that sinks at the Antarctic convergence and flows north at a depth of about 900 meters beneath the warmer upper-water mass of the South Atlantic Subtropical Gyre

148
Q

west wind drift

A

Another name for the Antarctic Circumpolar Current or the penguin gyre

149
Q

crest

A

The portion of an ocean wave that is displaced above the still-water level

150
Q

Pacific Tsunami Warning Center

A

coordinates information from 25 Pacific Rim countries and is headquarted in Ewa Beach, Hawaii.

151
Q

plunging breaker

A

Impressive Curling breakers that form on moderately sloping beaches. (best for surfing)

152
Q

refraction

A

The process by which the part of a wave in shallow water is slowed down, causing the wave to bend and align itself nearly parallel to the shore

153
Q

rogue wave

A

An unusually large wave that usually occurs unexpectedly amid other waves of smaller size. Also known as a superwave

154
Q

spilling breaker

A

A type of breaking wave that forms on gently sloping beach, which gradually extracts the energy from the wave to produce a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave

155
Q

still water level

A

The horizontal surface halfway between crest and trough of a wave. If there were no waves, the water surface would exist at this level. Also known as zero energy level

156
Q

surf zone

A

The nearshore zone of breaking waves

157
Q

trough

A

The part of an ocean wave that is displaced below the still-water line

158
Q

tsunami

A

A seismic sea wave. A long-period gravity wave generated by a submarine earthquake or volcanic event. Not noticable on the open ocean but builds up to great heights in shallow water

159
Q

wave base

A

The depth at which circular orbital motion becomes negligible. It exists at a depth of one-half wavelength, measured vertically from still water level.

160
Q

wave dispersion

A

The separation of waves as they leave the sea area by wave size. Larger waves travel faster than smaller waves and thus leave the sea area first, to be followed by progressively smaller waves

161
Q

wave height

A

(H) The vertical distance between a crest and the adjoining trough

162
Q

wave period

A

(T) The elapsed time between the passage of two successive wave crests (or troughs) past a fixed point. A wave’s period is the inverse of its frequency

163
Q

wave reflection

A

A vertical barrier, such as seawall a rock or ledge can reflect waves back into the ocean w/ little loss of energy–a process called__________

164
Q

wave speed

A

(S) The rate at which a wave travels. It can be calculated by dividing a wave’s wavelength (L) by it’s period (T)

165
Q

wave steepness

A

Ratio of wave height (H) to wavelength (L). If a 1:7 ratio is ever exceeded by the wave, then the wave breaks.

166
Q

wave train

A

A series of waves from the same direction. Informally known as a wave set

167
Q

wavelength

A

(L) The horizontal distance between two corresponding points on successive waves, such as from crest to crest.

168
Q

frequency

A

the number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time

169
Q

formula for frequency (f)

A

1 / period (T)

170
Q

formula for wave speed (S)

A

wavelength (L) / period (T)

171
Q

formula for wave base

A

1/2 wavelength

172
Q

formula for wave steepness

A

wave (H) / wavelength (L)

173
Q

tides

A

The periodic raising and lowering of sea level that occurs daily throughout the ocean.

174
Q

gravitational force

A

The force that makes every object that has mass in the universe be attracted to every other object.

175
Q

What is the equation for the force of gravity?

A

Fg= ((G)(m1)(m2))/r squared

176
Q

Why is the Lunar day 50 min longer than the solar day?

A

During the 24 hours it takes Earth to make a full rotation, the Moon has continued moving another 12.2 degrees to the east in its orbit around the Earth. Thus, Earth must rotate an additional 50 in to “catch up” to the moon.

177
Q

flood tide

A

Water moving toward the shore.

178
Q

ebb tide

A

Water moving away from the shore.

179
Q

new moon

A

Phase in which the Moon is between earth and the Sun, it cannot be seen at night.

180
Q

full moon

A

Phase in which the Moon is on the side of Earth opposite the Sun, its entire disk is brightly visible.

181
Q

quarter moon

A

Phase in which the moon tat is half lit and half dark is viewed from the Earth, occurs when the Moon is at right angles to the Sun relative to Earth.

182
Q

tidal range

A

The vertical difference between high and low tides

183
Q

spring tide

A

The maximum tidal range

184
Q

neap tide

A

When there is destructive interference between the lunar and solar tidal bulges.

185
Q

waxing crescent

A

As the moon progresses from new moon to first-quarter phase.

186
Q

waxing gibbous

A

In between the Moon’s full and third quarter phase.

187
Q

waning gibbous

A

Between the moon’s full and third quarter phase

188
Q

waning crescent

A

In between the third quarter and the new moon phase

189
Q

diurnal tidal pattern

A

Has one high tide and one low tide each lunar day., a tidal pattern exhibiting one high tide and one low tide during a tidal day; a daily tide

190
Q

semidiurnal tidal pattern

A

Has two high tides and two low tides each lunar day.

191
Q

mixed tidal patterns

A

May have characteristics of both diurnal and semidiurnal tides.

192
Q

Bay of Fundy

A

The largest tidal range in the world, found in Nova Scotia, with a length of 258 kilometers.

193
Q

flood current

A

Produced when water rushed into a bay (or river) with an incoming high tide.

194
Q

ebb current

A

Produced when water drains out of a bay (or river) with an incoming high tide.

195
Q

Newton’s law of universal gravitation

A

states that every object that has mass in the universe is attracted to every other object

196
Q

tidal bore

A

a wall of water that moves up certain low lying rivers due to an incoming tide