Navigate the Fundamentals of Animal Restraint in Dogs Flashcards
Collars and leashes.
Any dog you’re handling should wear at least a collar, which allows easier control should the dog suddenly begin to resist. Several types of collars serve this purpose. Remember, whichever you choose, any collar must be the correct size. Most dogs can easily slip out of a collar that’s too large, and risk injury from a collar that’s too small. (A growing puppy should receive new collars to accommodate its changing size.)
slip leash
one made of flat or braided nylon with a metal ring at one end, on all patients. A slip leash applied prior to examination may help to control a dog that resists handling or escapes from its handler. A dog wearing a slip leash is also easier to remove from a cage. Apply the slip leash as you would a training collar. Many veterinary practices imprint these inexpensive leashes with their practice name and give them as gifts to new clients.
Leashes are also made of rope, nylon, chain, or leather, with clips to attach directly to a collar. Leather leashes tend to be quite expensive and are rarely used in veterinary practice.
Muzzles.
A muzzle is any device applied around an animal’s nose and mouth to prevent the animal from biting. Any dog that may become aggressive during examination or treatment should wear a muzzle, applied before the animal shows signs of fear or aggression. Muzzle application can also temporarily distract a dog and allow you to complete a procedure. Several types of muzzles are available; you can also improvise a muzzle out of available materials. Whatever muzzle you choose, take care that you don’t put it on any dog with signs of breathing difficulties or chest injury.
Also, make sure that you don’t leave the muzzle on too long. Some muzzles prevent a dog from panting, which it must do to avoid overheating.
Muzzles left in place too long can also injure the dog. Finally, a dog that vomits while wearing a muzzle is likely to aspirate the vomit.
Basket muzzles
are available in a variety of sizes and materials. This type of muzzle is like a small cup placed over the end of the dog’s nose and clipped behind its ears. The dog is able to open their mouth, pant, and even drink while wearing a basket muzzle. Because these muzzles allow the dog to pant, you can leave them on longer; some dogs, however, are able to bite through this type of muzzle.
Nylon muzzles
more common in veterinary practice, slip over the dog’s nose and clip behind the head. Some nylon muzzles aren’t adjustable, but most veterinary practices keep enough sizes of them on hand to make the correct size always available. Ensure the muzzle you choose fits snugly but isn’t overly tight. Dogs cannot pant while wearing they type of muzzle, so it should be removed as soon as possible. Wash the muzzle promptly after you remove it.
Training collars
consist of stainless-steel links with a ring at each end. The links can be a variety of thicknesses. In general, the thicker links are used for very large, muscular dogs, while thinner links are best for smaller breeds. Training collars are sometimes incorrectly referred to as “choke” collars.
A properly-used training collar never chokes the animal. You must, however, apply it correctly to avoid injuring the dog. Choose a collar approximately two inches longer than the circumference of the dog’s neck. The collar should slip easily but snugly over the dog’s head. The loose end, which takes the leash, should come over the back of the dog at the top of, not underneath, its neck.
Once the collar and leash are in the appropriate position, you can lead the animal, but never pull the collar tight. Apply short, firm tugs that momentarily tighten the collar.
Never leave a training collar on an unattended dog. These collars catch easily on cage bars and similar surfaces, and thus can seriously injure or kill a dog.
Nylon or leather flat collars
are most appropriate for daily home use. However, don’t rely on a flat collar for restraint; dogs can easily slip out of them, and some flat collars are designed to release quickly so that they don’t catch on something and choke the dog.
Leashes
Any dog you’re leading should wear a leash.
leashes can also aid restraint, and help to prevent animal-to-animal contact in the waiting room. There are many kinds of dog leashes on the market.
Veterinary practices often use a slip leash,
one made of flat or braided nylon with a metal ring at one end, on all patients. A slip leash applied prior to examination may help to control a dog that resists handling or escapes from its handler. A dog wearing a slip leash is also easier to remove from a cage. Apply the slip leash as you would a training collar. Many veterinary practices imprint these inexpensive leashes with their practice name and give them as gifts to new clients.
Leashes are also made of rope, nylon, chain, or leather, with clips to attach directly to a collar. Leather leashes tend to be quite expensive and are rarely used in veterinary practice.
Leashes come in many thicknesses and lengths. Always use thicker leashes on large dogs. A thinner leash may break if a large dog pulls against it. Shorter leashes are appropriate for moving animals from place to place in the veterinary practice; longer leashes allow the animal to exercise.
To make a gauze muzzle,
Step 1: Take a long piece of bandage and tie a large loop at its midsection.
Step 2: Approach the dog from the side or back and slip the loop over the end of the dog’s nose.
Step 3: Quickly tighten the loop and bring the ends of the gauze under the dog’s neck.
Step 4: Cross the ends over, then pull the ends behind the dog’s neck.
Step 5: Tie the ends of the gauze in a half bow or slip knot so that it can be removed quickly.
You must modify this technique for dogs with short or pug noses. For pug-nosed dogs, slip the loop over the dog’s nose with the tie under the jaw. Pull the ends of the gauze behind the ears, then tie them securely. One of the ends of the gauze should then be drawn down across the dog’s forehead and slid under the loop at the top of the nose, to keep the loop from slipping off the end of the dog’s nose.
Head snares.
Vicious dogs should be caught and restrained with a head snare, sometimes called a “rabies pole” or a “restraint pole.” The head snare is a long metal or heavy-duty plastic tubular handle with a thick retractable wire inside it. This wire is long enough for a large loop of it to be pulled out, slipped over the dog’s head, and quickly tightened. The snare handle allows you to keep the animal at a safe distance. Once the snare has served its purpose, a quick release mechanism loosens the loop for easy removal from the dog’s neck. Dogs that are especially strong may require two handlers, each with a head snare attached to the animal, to lead the dog. Make sure that the snare will release easily when necessary.
There are two prerequisites before picking up a dog:
apply a leash, and crouch beside the animal. The leash helps prevent the dog from escaping. The crouch spares your back.
To lift a small, uninjured dog, which weighs less than 50 pounds:
Step 1: Place one arm under the dog’s head.
Step 2: Place your other arm under the dog’s abdomen with your hand pointed forward and your fingers between the dog’s front legs.
Step 3: Lift the dog straight up and place it on the examining table.
To lift a small dog that’s injured or may be injured:
Step 1: Place one arm under the dog’s head.
Step 2: Place your other arm around the dog’s hindquarters.
Step 3: Lift the dog straight up and place it on the examining table.
To lift a large, uninjured dog that weighs more than 50 pounds or is struggling:
Step 1: Two people should crouch down on the same side of the dog.
Step 2: One person should restrain the dog’s head by placing one arm around the dog’s neck and the other arm around the dog’s chest.
Step 3: The second person should place one arm around the dog’s abdomen and the other arm around the dog’s hindquarters.
Step 4: Simultaneously, both people should lift the dog using their legs, not their back.
Taking a Dog from its Owner
Some dogs are very protective of their owners and may respond more aggressively than they would in the owner’s absence. Follow the same approaching guidelines when you approach a dog that’s with its owner, but also make sure that you talk in a reassuring tone to both dog and owner. Be especially careful not to make sudden movements. Look at the dog, but don’t stare. Some dogs interpret staring as a threat or challenge.
Take the dog’s leash from its owner and ask the owner to walk away from the dog. If you must lead the dog away from the owner, coax the dog with a cheerful and calm tone.
