MSTE SET 7 Flashcards
A hypothetical wave having a wave height and period equal to average values of the wave height and period of the largest 1/3 of all waves in the train as counted in the order of greater wave height.
SIGNIFICANT WAVE
A wave at a point where the depth is equal to ½ of the wavelength or greater to be expressed in terms of the parameters of significant wave.
DEEP WATER WAVE
A maximum wave height and wave period of the maximum wave height in the wave train.
HIGHEST WAVE
Waves which occur in water having a depth less than one half of the wave length and the influence of the bottom changes the form or orbital motion from circular to elliptical or near elliptical.
SHALLOW WATER WAVE
Waves formed by the frictional drag of wind across the water surface.
GRAVITY WAVE
The pressure against a vertical wall due to waves.
CLAPOTIS
The distance that the wind blows over the sea in generating the waves is known as:
FETCH
The regular periodic rise and fall of the surface of the seas, observable along their shores.
TIDE
The falling tide is known as:
EBB TIDE
Waves generated by storms, which occur outside area of observation.
SWELL
A very long-standing wave on a large but limited body of water generally occurring when a storm dies down after producing a wind tide.
SEICHE
An instrument use to measure the intensity of wind.
BEUFORTS SCALE
In many parts of the world, the high waters reach their greatest height and the low waters at the least height, soon after the time of full moon and new moon. These tides are called:
SPRING TIDE
When the lines connecting the earth with the sun and the moon form a right angle, that is the moon is in its quarters, then the actions of the moon and sun are subtractive, and the lowest tides of the month occur, this is called:
NEAP TIDE
Owing to retardation of the tidal wave in the ocean by frictional force, as the earth revolves daily around its axis and as the tide tends to follow the direction of the moon, the highest tide for each location is not coincident with conjunction and opposition but occurs at some constant time after new and full moon. This interval which may amount to as much as two and a half days is known as:
AGE OF THE TIDE
Tides which occur only one high tide a day is called:
DIURNAL
The periodic rise and fall of sea level in response to the gravitational attraction of the sun and moon as modified by the earth’s rotation.
ASTRONOMICAL TIDE
Waves formed by moving ship or boats are called:
WAKES
The average height of the sea for all stages of the tide obtained from
systematic observations of sea levels at equal intervals over a long period of time along a given coastline.
MEAN SEA LEVEL
