MIDTERM 9 Flashcards
- Describe the geomorphology of the deep ocean basins
There is very little sediment in deep oceans. Sediment that is there is fine grained and occurs as thin horizontal beds. This sediment blankets the ocean floor.
- How are wind generated waves created on the ocean?
Waves are a disturbance of the surface of a body of water caused by air moving water over the water surface.
The energy of the moving air is transferred into the water to create a wave.
<p>3. What are the three factors that control the formation of a wave?</p>
<p>?</p>
<p>4. Using a diagram describe the features of a wave (i.e wave height) including the pattern of circulation beneath a wave crest.</p>
<p>?</p>
<p>15. </p>
<p>Bar - ridge of sediment - created as a result of breaking waves.
you get different waves breaking at different times. </p>
<p>15. </p>
<p>Bar - ridge of sediment - created as a result of breaking waves.
you get different waves breaking at different times. Off shore bars are deposited by the action of breaking waves. When waves break at different places and times because they are different they can produce more than one bar. On gently sloping shorelines the same wave can break more than once as it breaks, reforms and breaks again resulting in multiple bars. </p>
<p>15. How do multiple bars form in the breaker zone?</p>
<p>Bar - ridge of sediment - created as a result of breaking waves.
you get different waves breaking at different times. Off shore bars are deposited by the action of breaking waves. When waves break at different places and times because they are different they can produce more than one bar. On gently sloping shorelines the same wave can break more than once as it breaks, reforms and breaks again resulting in multiple bars. </p>
<p>11. Briefly explain the differences between plunging wave, surging waves, and spilling waves. </p>
<p>Plunging Wave : these two waves happen most often on steep beaches.
Surging Wave : entire wave front advances as it breaks.
Spilling Wave </p>
: Spillig waves tend to occur on a beach with a shallow gradient.
