Marine Ecology & Waves Waves Flashcards
When A wave is generated in the open ocean, and days later brakes on the shore thousands of kilometers away, did the water molecules in the area the wave was generated actually travel the entire distance? Explain your answer.
No. The energy is transferred and the molecules do not move
Define each of the following: wave height, wavelength, wave period
Wave height: the vertical height from crest to trough
Wavelength: The horizontal distance from crest to crest
Wave period: The amount of time it takes for two sequential crests to pass a point
What is the fetch, and how can it affect the size of the waves generated?
Fetch is the area over which the wind blows the larger the fetch the bigger the waves that are generated
Give three factors that determine the size of wind generated waves.
Area of the fetch
Wind velocity
Wind duration
Original sea condition
What is Stokes drift and how does it affect the development of the ocean currents?
Water in waves normally rise and fall creating a circle but if there is wind blowing each time the cycle goes it will drift in the direction of the wind creating a non-closed circle, this causes the ocean currents
What is the wave base? How does this affect the transformation of the wave from a Deepwater wave to intermediate water wave to a shallow water wave?
Wave base is half the wavelength. A large wave will have a deep wave base a small wave will have a shallow wave base. Deep water waves the wave base does not reach the bottom of the ocean. Intermediate waves the wave base starts to feel the bottom and starts to slow down. Shallow waves the water is moving almost back and forth from rubbing on the bottom of the ocean
What are rouge waves and do they form with constructive or destructive wave interference?
Rogue waves are occasional extremely large waves. They form with constructive wave interference.
Often, when there is a large storm off shore, we will get large swells on on coastline even if the storm never hits here. Why are these large swells usually very regular, and with a long wavelength?
The longer the wavelength of a wave the faster it travels this is called wave dispersion. As waves leave storm areas the faster ones outrun the others and they sort themselves out by speed.
Which forms on Shores with the steepest bottoms? spilling breakers, plunging breakers or surging breakers? Why?
Searching breakers because they don’t touch the bottom and they surge of because they don’t slow down
When a wave “feels the bottom”, what changes does it undergo with respect to speed? Height?
It slows down due to frictional resistance from the bottom and it gets taller because the top out runs the bottom and crashes over
What are storm surges? How can they increase the damage to coastal areas during hurricanes?
Sea level rises during large storms because of two things lower pressure, which causes the surface to rise, and very strong wind, which drives the waves onto shore. Most damage is not from the wind but from the storm surge
What is seiche?
A standing wave which rocks up and down with a node in the center. For example water sloshing back-and-forth like in a bathtub.
If you were in a boat on the open ocean when a tsunami was passing across the basin, would your boat be in danger? Explain your answer.
No, tsunamis only become dangerous when they move into shallow water when the water slows down and starts to pile up. These waves would pose no danger in the open ocean and would normally pass under a vessel undetected.
What is the pelagic province? The benthic province?
The pelagic province is the open ocean up into the water column. the benthic province is the bottom dwellers
What is the photic zone, and what is its importance to life in the ocean?
The zone through which light penetrates and organisms can survive by doing photosynthesis. Here you can get your primary producers the base of the food chain