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Chemistry for the Analysis of Trace Evidence > Makeup > Flashcards

Makeup Flashcards

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1
Q

What type of products were used in the past to make cosmetics?

A
  • Clay
  • Crushed gemstones
  • Annatto
  • Paprika
  • Tumeric
  • Seaweed
  • Cochineal (carmine)
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2
Q

What are the 7 types of cosmetics?

A
  1. Oral care
  2. Sun care
  3. Skin care
  4. Hair care
  5. Body care
  6. Perfume
  7. Decorative cosmetics
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3
Q

What are examples of oral care cosmetics?

A
  • Toothpastes
  • Mouthwashers
  • Flosses
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4
Q

What are examples of sun care cosmetics?

A
  • Creams
  • Lotions
  • Oils
  • Gels
  • Sprays
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5
Q

What are examples of skin care cosmetics?

A
  • Cleansing lotions
  • Facial masks
  • Serums
  • Shaving creams
  • Exfoliators
  • Hydrating & anti-ageing creams
  • Toners
  • Moisturisers
  • Eye creams
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6
Q

What are examples of body care cosmetics?

A
  • Soaps
  • Antiperspirents
  • Body washes
  • Oils
  • Shower gels
  • Body lotions
  • Scrubs
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7
Q

What are examples of hair care cosmetics?

A
  • Lotions
  • Sprays
  • Shampoos
  • Conditioners
  • Serums
  • Texturisers
  • Mousses
  • Anti-dandruff shampoo
  • Hair colourants
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8
Q

What are examples of decorative cosmetics?

A
  • Lip & eyeliners
  • Lipstick & glosses
  • Nail varnishes
  • Blushes
  • Foundations
  • Powders
  • Eye shadows
  • Mascaras
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9
Q

What are examples of perfume cosmetics?

A
  • Scented oils
  • After shave
  • Salves
  • Perfumes
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10
Q

What is the definition of cosmetic legislation?

A

Any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact wiht the various external parts of the human body … with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good conition

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11
Q

Who regulates each and what they enforce

UK/EU cosmetic legislation vs USA

A
  • UK/EU cosmetic regulations are enforced by Trading Standards
  • FDA regulates cosmetic production in USA
  • Some products may be classified as a drug not cosmetic (anti-dandruff shampoo)
  • Some products can be both (toothpaste wiht fluoride)
  • FDA regards sunscreen as a drug but the UK/EU does not
  • Some components are only authorised for use in a particular product (some pigments in makeup cannot be used on the eyes)
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12
Q

What are the differences in decorative cosmetics?

A
  • Variety of products
  • Manufacturers
  • Brands and product lines
  • Colours, shades and tones
  • Formulations
  • Methods of application
  • Mixtures (multiple products applied on one area)
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13
Q

Both how it is used as evidence and why makeup is helpful in general

What are the advantages of cosmetic trace?

A
  • Cosmetic use increase - more traces
  • Independent of age, gender, ethnicity, socio-economics
  • Can cover scars, blemishes, tattoos and hyperpigmentation
  • Easily transferred, particularly with violent force
  • Relatively persistent and difficult to wash out
  • Uncommon cosmetics or layering combinations increase probative value
  • Unlike other cosmetics you tend to see makeup deposits
  • Can be used in cases that lack standard physical evidence and can also provide investigative leads
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14
Q

What type of pigments are used in cosmetics, with examples?

A
  • Mainly inorganic (mineral) for facial products
  • Mainly organic (lakes) for lipsticks
  • Particle size determines properties
  • TiO2 (0.25 um) used for maximum opacity - nano TiO2 (< 0.1 um) used for sunscreens
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15
Q

What are non-hiding white pigments used for with examples?

A

Extenders
* Calcium carbonate
* Talc
* China clay (kaolin)
* Silica

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16
Q

What are the two special effect cosmetics?

A
  1. Pearlescent - subtle colour and bright white reflection, ‘pearl-like’ lustre (gives a less intense effect than metallic)
  2. Interference (iridenscent) - light reflection and refraction, colour changes relative to angel of observation/illumination, ‘rainbow-like’, can be natural or synthetic
17
Q

How are specialist effects formed and how are they different from other pigments?

A
  • Thickness and composition of layers determines colour seen
  • Flakes much thinner but larger than other pigments
  • Another source is guanine Cl 75170 - got from fish scales
18
Q

What is goniochromism?

A

The phenomenon where surfaces appear to change colour

19
Q

What is the difference between shimmer and glitter?

A

Shimmer:
* Natural product
* Mica is the main substrate with metal oxide layers on top
* Irregular shapes
Glitter:
* Plastic/synthetic
* Regular shapes

20
Q

Layers of what causing…

How do interference pigments work?

A

Mica has a low RI and is in the middle of metal oxides which have a higher RI
* Low RI and high IR change how the light reflects through the substance to produce the interference pigments
* By increasing the complexity we can create any colour
* Thickness and type of metal oxide layers dictate the colours reflected and transmitted

21
Q

What other substrates can be used instead of mica for interference pigments and why?

A
  1. Borosilicate glass
  2. Silica
  3. Alumina
    - Thinner and more uniform than natural mica
    - Colourless (mica is slightly yellow)
    - Lower RI than mica so more interference
22
Q

what are the recovery considerations for cosmetics?

A
  • Air dry wet garments in controlled environment
  • Store in paper bags to prevent mould growth
  • Dont package with debis from the scene
  • If the substate is large/immovable, use a scalpel blade to collect eh sample
  • Preferable to keep at room temperature but refrigeration dependant on the presence of DNA
23
Q

What is the analytical workflow for cosmetics and what are they used to see?

A
  1. Gross examination, recovery and collection
  2. Preliminary evaluation of physical characteristics
  3. All microscopic techniques (flurescence)
  4. Microspectrophotometry - colour determination
  5. Infrared spectroscopy - organic content/silicones
  6. Raman spectroscopy - inorganic pigments
  7. SEM-EDX - SE mode for surface topology & BSE mode fo homogeneity
  8. XRF - elemental composition
  9. XRD - crystal structure and polymorphs
24
Q

What can microscopic analysis show in makeup?

A
  • Colour matrix/particles
  • Distribution of pigments
  • Particle morphology
  • Surface topology
  • Mica vs synethetic (mica can be made synthetically though and will have fluorine in it so can be differentiated by SEM-EDX)
  • Borosillicate glass
  • PMMA/silica spheres (RI measurments
  • Component encapsulation
25
Q

What are the differences between borosilicate glass and natural mica?

A
  • Borosilicate has sharp edges
  • Mica has a more natural look (rounded endges)
26
Q

What can you look at to distinguish between varients of the same product lines?

A
  • Exploit chemical differences (pigments)
  • Class characteristics (product type)
  • Individual characteristics (mixtures - people often use a lot of different products in different orders which creates new mixtures and increase the pobative value)
27
Q

What are the limitations of makeup as trace evidence?

A
  • Cosmetic formulations not shared
  • RRUFF database is only for minerals
  • No forensic cosmetic databases
  • Very limited research on background, transfer, persistence, contamination and activity level

Chemistry for the Analysis of Trace Evidence (16 decks)

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