Makeup Flashcards
What type of products were used in the past to make cosmetics?
- Clay
- Crushed gemstones
- Annatto
- Paprika
- Tumeric
- Seaweed
- Cochineal (carmine)
What are the 7 types of cosmetics?
- Oral care
- Sun care
- Skin care
- Hair care
- Body care
- Perfume
- Decorative cosmetics
What are examples of oral care cosmetics?
- Toothpastes
- Mouthwashers
- Flosses
What are examples of sun care cosmetics?
- Creams
- Lotions
- Oils
- Gels
- Sprays
What are examples of skin care cosmetics?
- Cleansing lotions
- Facial masks
- Serums
- Shaving creams
- Exfoliators
- Hydrating & anti-ageing creams
- Toners
- Moisturisers
- Eye creams
What are examples of body care cosmetics?
- Soaps
- Antiperspirents
- Body washes
- Oils
- Shower gels
- Body lotions
- Scrubs
What are examples of hair care cosmetics?
- Lotions
- Sprays
- Shampoos
- Conditioners
- Serums
- Texturisers
- Mousses
- Anti-dandruff shampoo
- Hair colourants
What are examples of decorative cosmetics?
- Lip & eyeliners
- Lipstick & glosses
- Nail varnishes
- Blushes
- Foundations
- Powders
- Eye shadows
- Mascaras
What are examples of perfume cosmetics?
- Scented oils
- After shave
- Salves
- Perfumes
What is the definition of cosmetic legislation?
Any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact wiht the various external parts of the human body … with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good conition
Who regulates each and what they enforce
UK/EU cosmetic legislation vs USA
- UK/EU cosmetic regulations are enforced by Trading Standards
- FDA regulates cosmetic production in USA
- Some products may be classified as a drug not cosmetic (anti-dandruff shampoo)
- Some products can be both (toothpaste wiht fluoride)
- FDA regards sunscreen as a drug but the UK/EU does not
- Some components are only authorised for use in a particular product (some pigments in makeup cannot be used on the eyes)
What are the differences in decorative cosmetics?
- Variety of products
- Manufacturers
- Brands and product lines
- Colours, shades and tones
- Formulations
- Methods of application
- Mixtures (multiple products applied on one area)
Both how it is used as evidence and why makeup is helpful in general
What are the advantages of cosmetic trace?
- Cosmetic use increase - more traces
- Independent of age, gender, ethnicity, socio-economics
- Can cover scars, blemishes, tattoos and hyperpigmentation
- Easily transferred, particularly with violent force
- Relatively persistent and difficult to wash out
- Uncommon cosmetics or layering combinations increase probative value
- Unlike other cosmetics you tend to see makeup deposits
- Can be used in cases that lack standard physical evidence and can also provide investigative leads
What type of pigments are used in cosmetics, with examples?
- Mainly inorganic (mineral) for facial products
- Mainly organic (lakes) for lipsticks
- Particle size determines properties
- TiO2 (0.25 um) used for maximum opacity - nano TiO2 (< 0.1 um) used for sunscreens
What are non-hiding white pigments used for with examples?
Extenders
* Calcium carbonate
* Talc
* China clay (kaolin)
* Silica
What are the two special effect cosmetics?
- Pearlescent - subtle colour and bright white reflection, ‘pearl-like’ lustre (gives a less intense effect than metallic)
- Interference (iridenscent) - light reflection and refraction, colour changes relative to angel of observation/illumination, ‘rainbow-like’, can be natural or synthetic
How are specialist effects formed and how are they different from other pigments?
- Thickness and composition of layers determines colour seen
- Flakes much thinner but larger than other pigments
- Another source is guanine Cl 75170 - got from fish scales
What is goniochromism?
The phenomenon where surfaces appear to change colour
What is the difference between shimmer and glitter?
Shimmer:
* Natural product
* Mica is the main substrate with metal oxide layers on top
* Irregular shapes
Glitter:
* Plastic/synthetic
* Regular shapes
Layers of what causing…
How do interference pigments work?
Mica has a low RI and is in the middle of metal oxides which have a higher RI
* Low RI and high IR change how the light reflects through the substance to produce the interference pigments
* By increasing the complexity we can create any colour
* Thickness and type of metal oxide layers dictate the colours reflected and transmitted
What other substrates can be used instead of mica for interference pigments and why?
- Borosilicate glass
- Silica
- Alumina
- Thinner and more uniform than natural mica
- Colourless (mica is slightly yellow)
- Lower RI than mica so more interference
what are the recovery considerations for cosmetics?
- Air dry wet garments in controlled environment
- Store in paper bags to prevent mould growth
- Dont package with debis from the scene
- If the substate is large/immovable, use a scalpel blade to collect eh sample
- Preferable to keep at room temperature but refrigeration dependant on the presence of DNA
What is the analytical workflow for cosmetics and what are they used to see?
- Gross examination, recovery and collection
- Preliminary evaluation of physical characteristics
- All microscopic techniques (flurescence)
- Microspectrophotometry - colour determination
- Infrared spectroscopy - organic content/silicones
- Raman spectroscopy - inorganic pigments
- SEM-EDX - SE mode for surface topology & BSE mode fo homogeneity
- XRF - elemental composition
- XRD - crystal structure and polymorphs
What can microscopic analysis show in makeup?
- Colour matrix/particles
- Distribution of pigments
- Particle morphology
- Surface topology
- Mica vs synethetic (mica can be made synthetically though and will have fluorine in it so can be differentiated by SEM-EDX)
- Borosillicate glass
- PMMA/silica spheres (RI measurments
- Component encapsulation
What are the differences between borosilicate glass and natural mica?
- Borosilicate has sharp edges
- Mica has a more natural look (rounded endges)
What can you look at to distinguish between varients of the same product lines?
- Exploit chemical differences (pigments)
- Class characteristics (product type)
- Individual characteristics (mixtures - people often use a lot of different products in different orders which creates new mixtures and increase the pobative value)
What are the limitations of makeup as trace evidence?
- Cosmetic formulations not shared
- RRUFF database is only for minerals
- No forensic cosmetic databases
- Very limited research on background, transfer, persistence, contamination and activity level
