Light Chemical Peels Flashcards
Very light or very superficial peels
- those that lead to a necrosis of the epidermis at the level of stratum corneum
light peels or superficial peels
- those that penetrate through the epidermis and
lead to necrosis of the entire epidermis down to the level of stratum granulosum or the basal lamina - Light peels cause reduced corneocyte adhesion and increase collagen formation in the dermis
- In this way they improve skin’s radiance & luminosity
Agents for Very Light Peels
Classification of depth of peeling in 5 levels according to Schürer & Wiest
Agents for Light Peels
Very superficial peels can be repeated every…?
1 to 2 weeks
light peels can be repeated every…?
2 to 4 weeks
Peeling too frequently can result in…?
- increased risk for complications, in particular
- persistent erythema
- postinflammatory hyperpigmentation
- infections
- scarring
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
* derive from ?
* examples
- group of organic acids
- often referred to as fruit acids, including:
- glycolic acid from cane sugar
- citric acid from citrus fruits
- malic acid from apples
- lactic & mandelic acid
Lactic acid features
- decreases corneocyte cohesion, leading to a thinner stratum corneum
- It moisturizes & brightens the skin
- improves superficial acne scarring by improving skin texture & appearance
Mandelic acid features
- slow skin penetration due to its large molecule size
- Therefore, it is considered a safe, light peeling agent
- In concentrations of 20% to 50% it has a skin-rejuvenation & lightening effect
AHAs MoA
- considered keratolytic agents because they =>
- cause a superficial exfoliation by breaking bonds between keratinocytes in the different layers of the stratum corneum & stratum granulosum
- help to correct an abnormally thickened stratum corneum of the epidermis
how long does the effect of AHA last after the end of therapy?
- up to 14 days after the end of the therapy
daily use of topical AHA lotion leads to..?
- increased dermal thickness by stimulating an increased deposition of collagen & GAGs
Beta-Hydroxy Acid features
* examples ?
* properties ?
* neutralization ?
- salicylic acid (SA) & beta-lipohydroxy acid (LHA), which is a derivative of SA
- have antibacterial, antiinflammatory, antifungal, anticomedogenic properties
- LHA is more lipophilic than SA
- LHA penetrates well into the sebaceous follicle & through the epidermis, but less deeply into the skin compared with glycolic acids & SA
- Neutralization is neither necessary
nor possible when peeling with LHAs
Retinoic Acids features
* examples
* properties
* side effects
- all-trans retinal & retinoic acid
- usually used alone or in combination with AHAs or other ingredients
- RAs lead to a thinner & more compact stratum corneum and a thicker epidermis
- can help to improve dyschromias by creating a more consistent distribution of melanin throughout the epidermis
- RAs reverse the number of atypical keratinocytes, thus leading to an improvement or eradication of actinic keratosis
- SEs: increased photosensitivity
- AHAs act mainly on…?
- Retinoic acids act mainly on..?
- AHA => stratum granulosum
- RAs => stratum corneum
Both AHAs and RAs lead to…?
- increased & accelerated skin turnover from the normal 28 days to 10 to 12 days
Salicylic-Mandelic Combination Acid Peels
- in concentrations of 20% SA & 10% mandelic acid, are effective in treating acne vulgaris & acne scars