Lecture 7 - 1920s Designers Flashcards
______ fashion sets the tone in the 1920s
Paris
_______ continues to be looked to for menswear in the 1920s
England
Three French designing sisters who were the 1st sellers of lingerie and silk ribbon. They made lace dresses popular before WWI AND PROMOTED The romantic movement in the 1920s. Their 1920s Chinese motifs and detailed hemlines influenced the incorporation of oriental designs in ballet russe costumes
(Active 1895-1984)
What was the main designer’ name
Callot Soeurs
Marie Gerber
A soft, silky dress fabric used in the early 1900s
Charmeuse
Threads of flattened cut pieces of gold or silver threads interwoven into fabric
Lamé
Parisian designer known for introducing the little black dress (le petit noir), Boucle jacket, gold chain hemline of a jacket, and costume jewelry. She was also one of the early designers to to adopt perfume
(Active 1815-1971)
Coco Chanel
Early, very young Chanel resembled a _______ Girl
Gibson
After WWII, Chanel used softer, looser _______ fabric and designs because their was a shortage in other fabrics during that time
Jersey
Who started the cloche hat in 1928
Caroline Reboux
1st to use his monogram as a design feature and establish a RTW line.
(Active 1887-1936)
M. Jean Patou
He created sportswear for women, knotted swimwear and popularized the cardigan.
M. Jean Patou
He designed men’a ties by using the same fabric from his women’s dress collection
M. Jean Patou
Designer who eradicated the flapper with lengthened skirts
M. Jean Patou
Created “Joy” Perfume
M. Jean Patou
Is a 45 degrees cut on fabric that provides it some give similar to the warp
Bias
Worn around the head of tennis player Suzanne Lenglen and designed by Patou
Bandeau
Designer that use peasant embroidery
M. Jean Patou
French designer who was “Architect among Dressmakers”
Active 1912-1939
Madeleine Vionnet
Fashion designer who liked Greek styles and was queen of the the bias cut
Madeleine Vionnet
Parisian designer who had worked for Callot Souers and Doucet
Madeleine Vionnet
Designer known for draping half-scale instead of sketching
Madeleine Vionnet
Technique of applying one fabric on top of the other and sewing it by hand
Appliqué
What designer was known for using velvet patchwork and satin appliqué
Madeleine Vionnet
1st innovator of of new fashion of the 20th century and created the slender modern women
(Active 1904-1925)
Paul Poiret
Designed for theatre and was surrounded by artists such as Iribe, Lepape, and Erte
Paul Poiret
Designer known for Turkish trousers, turbans, sultan style and tassels
Paul Poiret
In the 1910s, this designer introduced an avant-garde sensibility into couture. He also incorporated Chinese influences into his designs
Paul Poiret
Designer was outdated after WWI (1917) due to his designs not meeting the modern standard
Paul Poiret
Rivaled with Coco Chanel
Paul Poiret
Famous Paris fashion magazine
Gazette du BonTon
Designer known for mother-daughter outfits
Active 1909-1938
Jeanne Lanvin
What was the design style of Jeanne Lanvin
Robes de style
Designer who had a global approach to the fashion industry through the use of vertical integration
Jeanne Lanvin
Designer that was known for their due factory, home décor, menswear, furs, lingerie and Arpege perfume
Jeanne Lanvin
Who designed Lavin’s logo
Paul Iribe
What 1920s designer was called “Captain”
Edward Molyneux
British designer who dressed British high society like Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, and the Duchess of Kent
(Active 1891-1974)
Edward Molyneux
Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy worked for this French designer. Gloria Swanson and Greta Garbo was this designer’s clients
(Designed 1920s-1940s)
Lucien Lelong
This French designer wanted his garments to move “kinetique”
Lucien Lelong
French designer who was the president of the Chamber Syndicale during WWII
Lucien Lelong
Was a Ukrainian painter who moved to Paris and married
Sonia Delauney
This designer was an active partisans in Parisian avant-garde and loved to explore color. He/she designed unfitted fashions for their textiles
Sonia Delauney
British designer that worked for Lady Duff-Gordon and designed costumes for 2 dozen movies
Norman Hartnell
Designer that re-established traditions of hand tailoring and a distinctive English cut
Norman Hartnell
Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II
Norman Hartnell
Most American designers in the early 20th century started as ________ or worked in ________ stores
Dressmakers
Department
Austrian designer who moved to Harlem and began dressmaking at home
Nettie Rosenstein
Began wholesaling for I. Magnin department stores
Nettie Rosenstein
This designer had 50 employees in NY and limited distribution. They stopped designing fashion in 1961 but their partner continued the jewelry and accessory designs until the entire brand closed in 1975
Nettie Rosenstein
NY designer whose designs were unique (not copies of Paris fashion) and similar to artistic perform dress
Jesse Franklin Turner
American designer known for their draped tea gowns, exotic evening dresses, and self-designed fabrics
Jesse Franklin Turner
Designer who was originally born in Vienna but moved to NY where he/she was a milliner.
Hattie Carnegie
This American designer did not sew but had an eye for talent. Their specialty was the “Little ______ Suit”
Hattie Carnegie
This American designer was Russian and was a member of the Café Society during the 1920s
Valentina
This designer was known for their theatrical style, gowns, and work o. Broadway.
Valentina
Was a designer at Bonwit Teller Department store in NY from 1914-1923
Jesse Franklin Turner
This designer frequented the Brooklyn Museum for design inspiration
Jesse Franklin Turner
This designer incorporated folkloric and ethnographic details, such as an eastern European bird motif, in their designs
Jesse Franklin Turner