Lecture 7 - 1920s Designers Flashcards

1
Q

______ fashion sets the tone in the 1920s

A

Paris

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2
Q

_______ continues to be looked to for menswear in the 1920s

A

England

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3
Q

Three French designing sisters who were the 1st sellers of lingerie and silk ribbon. They made lace dresses popular before WWI AND PROMOTED The romantic movement in the 1920s. Their 1920s Chinese motifs and detailed hemlines influenced the incorporation of oriental designs in ballet russe costumes
(Active 1895-1984)

What was the main designer’ name

A

Callot Soeurs

Marie Gerber

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4
Q

A soft, silky dress fabric used in the early 1900s

A

Charmeuse

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5
Q

Threads of flattened cut pieces of gold or silver threads interwoven into fabric

A

Lamé

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6
Q

Parisian designer known for introducing the little black dress (le petit noir), Boucle jacket, gold chain hemline of a jacket, and costume jewelry. She was also one of the early designers to to adopt perfume
(Active 1815-1971)

A

Coco Chanel

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7
Q

Early, very young Chanel resembled a _______ Girl

A

Gibson

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8
Q

After WWII, Chanel used softer, looser _______ fabric and designs because their was a shortage in other fabrics during that time

A

Jersey

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9
Q

Who started the cloche hat in 1928

A

Caroline Reboux

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10
Q

1st to use his monogram as a design feature and establish a RTW line.
(Active 1887-1936)

A

M. Jean Patou

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11
Q

He created sportswear for women, knotted swimwear and popularized the cardigan.

A

M. Jean Patou

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12
Q

He designed men’a ties by using the same fabric from his women’s dress collection

A

M. Jean Patou

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13
Q

Designer who eradicated the flapper with lengthened skirts

A

M. Jean Patou

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14
Q

Created “Joy” Perfume

A

M. Jean Patou

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15
Q

Is a 45 degrees cut on fabric that provides it some give similar to the warp

A

Bias

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16
Q

Worn around the head of tennis player Suzanne Lenglen and designed by Patou

A

Bandeau

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17
Q

Designer that use peasant embroidery

A

M. Jean Patou

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18
Q

French designer who was “Architect among Dressmakers”

Active 1912-1939

A

Madeleine Vionnet

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19
Q

Fashion designer who liked Greek styles and was queen of the the bias cut

A

Madeleine Vionnet

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20
Q

Parisian designer who had worked for Callot Souers and Doucet

A

Madeleine Vionnet

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21
Q

Designer known for draping half-scale instead of sketching

A

Madeleine Vionnet

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22
Q

Technique of applying one fabric on top of the other and sewing it by hand

A

Appliqué

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23
Q

What designer was known for using velvet patchwork and satin appliqué

A

Madeleine Vionnet

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24
Q

1st innovator of of new fashion of the 20th century and created the slender modern women
(Active 1904-1925)

A

Paul Poiret

25
Q

Designed for theatre and was surrounded by artists such as Iribe, Lepape, and Erte

A

Paul Poiret

26
Q

Designer known for Turkish trousers, turbans, sultan style and tassels

A

Paul Poiret

27
Q

In the 1910s, this designer introduced an avant-garde sensibility into couture. He also incorporated Chinese influences into his designs

A

Paul Poiret

28
Q

Designer was outdated after WWI (1917) due to his designs not meeting the modern standard

A

Paul Poiret

29
Q

Rivaled with Coco Chanel

A

Paul Poiret

30
Q

Famous Paris fashion magazine

A

Gazette du BonTon

31
Q

Designer known for mother-daughter outfits

Active 1909-1938

A

Jeanne Lanvin

32
Q

What was the design style of Jeanne Lanvin

A

Robes de style

33
Q

Designer who had a global approach to the fashion industry through the use of vertical integration

A

Jeanne Lanvin

34
Q

Designer that was known for their due factory, home décor, menswear, furs, lingerie and Arpege perfume

A

Jeanne Lanvin

35
Q

Who designed Lavin’s logo

A

Paul Iribe

36
Q

What 1920s designer was called “Captain”

A

Edward Molyneux

37
Q

British designer who dressed British high society like Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, and the Duchess of Kent
(Active 1891-1974)

A

Edward Molyneux

38
Q

Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy worked for this French designer. Gloria Swanson and Greta Garbo was this designer’s clients
(Designed 1920s-1940s)

A

Lucien Lelong

39
Q

This French designer wanted his garments to move “kinetique”

A

Lucien Lelong

40
Q

French designer who was the president of the Chamber Syndicale during WWII

A

Lucien Lelong

41
Q

Was a Ukrainian painter who moved to Paris and married

A

Sonia Delauney

42
Q

This designer was an active partisans in Parisian avant-garde and loved to explore color. He/she designed unfitted fashions for their textiles

A

Sonia Delauney

43
Q

British designer that worked for Lady Duff-Gordon and designed costumes for 2 dozen movies

A

Norman Hartnell

44
Q

Designer that re-established traditions of hand tailoring and a distinctive English cut

A

Norman Hartnell

45
Q

Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II

A

Norman Hartnell

46
Q

Most American designers in the early 20th century started as ________ or worked in ________ stores

A

Dressmakers

Department

47
Q

Austrian designer who moved to Harlem and began dressmaking at home

A

Nettie Rosenstein

48
Q

Began wholesaling for I. Magnin department stores

A

Nettie Rosenstein

49
Q

This designer had 50 employees in NY and limited distribution. They stopped designing fashion in 1961 but their partner continued the jewelry and accessory designs until the entire brand closed in 1975

A

Nettie Rosenstein

50
Q

NY designer whose designs were unique (not copies of Paris fashion) and similar to artistic perform dress

A

Jesse Franklin Turner

51
Q

American designer known for their draped tea gowns, exotic evening dresses, and self-designed fabrics

A

Jesse Franklin Turner

52
Q

Designer who was originally born in Vienna but moved to NY where he/she was a milliner.

A

Hattie Carnegie

53
Q

This American designer did not sew but had an eye for talent. Their specialty was the “Little ______ Suit”

A

Hattie Carnegie

54
Q

This American designer was Russian and was a member of the Café Society during the 1920s

A

Valentina

55
Q

This designer was known for their theatrical style, gowns, and work o. Broadway.

A

Valentina

56
Q

Was a designer at Bonwit Teller Department store in NY from 1914-1923

A

Jesse Franklin Turner

57
Q

This designer frequented the Brooklyn Museum for design inspiration

A

Jesse Franklin Turner

58
Q

This designer incorporated folkloric and ethnographic details, such as an eastern European bird motif, in their designs

A

Jesse Franklin Turner