Lawns

Question 1

Benefits of establishing from seed

Answer 1

Greater selection of grass species mixes available, which can be bespoke.
Cheaper than turf. 50p per m2
If lawn area is irregular shape or undulating then seed is easier.

Question 2

Negatives of seed over turf

Answer 2

Not an instant effect
Can’t be walked on for some time.
Ground prep is particularly important, therefore labour costs can be more. (Approx £20/m2)
May be limited to spring for best establishment.

Question 3

Benefits of turf over seed

Answer 3

Instant effect
Can use area sooner
Ground prep not needed to be quite as through, therefore cheaper. (Approx £15/m2)

Question 4

Limitations of turf over seed

Answer 4

Limited range of grass species mix available.
Higher cost £4-£8 per m2
Establishing a large area can be physically demanding
Turf needs to be used quickly to prevent drying out so timing if delivery is important.

Question 5

Hard wearing utility lawn

Answer 5

Where lawn is to be walked or played on regularly. Height of cut likely to be higher
Poa pratensis - tolerates a wide range of climatic conditions
Lolium perenne - very hard wearing.

Question 6

High quality ornamental lawn

Answer 6

Where appearance is important. Likely mown more frequent to shorter height.
20% Agrostis capillaris - hard-wearing, drought resistant and will tolerate short mowing.
80% Festuca rubra subsp. commutata - quick to establish, good drought resistance and tolerates short mowing.

Question 7

Shade tolerant lawn

Answer 7

Most turf grasses need 4-6hrs if sun a day. Without this turf can deteriorate and more prone to disease.
Where shade is from trees extra problem if roots competing for water and nutrients. Dripping water from tree canopy can be damaging.
Festuca rubra rubra
Poa trivalis
Poa nemoralis

Question 8

Establishment of lawn from seed

Answer 8

Remove all weeds, stone and debris.
Dig over area to depth of 15-20cm.
Fertiliser can be raked in before sowing.
Roll or tread soil to get an even spread.
Top 2cm soil should then be raked to a level finish.

Sow seed at rate recommended by supplier, usually 25g/m2. Lightly rake the seed into top 2cm of soilfirm down by treading or lightly rolling.
Keep seed bed moist. Water well using a fine spray. Ground must not dry out until seed us established .
May need to protect seed from birds using fleece.
Roll grass before first mow to ensure roots are pushed back into the ground. Start mowig when grass is 5-8cm high, then gradually trim down to 2.5cm as the lawn thickens up.
Do not apply weedkiller for 6months.

Question 9

Establishment of a lawn from turf

Answer 9

Ground should be dug to 20cm and free of weeds, and have a base dressing of fertiliser applied .
Turf should be laid out immediately. The soil should be raked to a fine tilth and left as a stale seedbed for 2 weeks.
A lawn top dressing is useful. This is a mix of sand, loam and organic matter and provides good drainage whilst being moisture retentive.
A final how should remove any germinating weeds.
Delivery if turves should be day before it’s laid.
Start laying, preferably along a straight edge. Butt up end to end. Stagger the joints in neighbouring rows.
Planks should be used to walk alig and work from. Lightly firm down the turves to ensure good contact with the soil.
The head of a rake held vertically and tamped down is ideal.
Always push turves I to a joint rather than pulling them. Any cracks can be filled with light soil and tamped down .
Turf can be cut where needed with knife or half moon.
Lawn top dressing can be brushed I to joints.

Question 10

Watering turf

Answer 10

Always water newly laid turf immediately and for several days u til it’s firmly rooted.
Morninf and evening are ideal times.
Don’t overwater.

Question 11

Mowing turf

Answer 11

Can start 5 days after laying if it won’t disturb the roots.
Never take more than 1/3 off at any one time. Best to top it initially then gradually bring it down to required height.
Never mow below 25mm
A lightweight mower best to start - Flymo or hand push rotary mower.
If not possible to use these make sure soil under turf is firm before mowing.

Question 12

Key mowing points

Answer 12

Don’t delay.
Don’t let it grow too long.
Keep mower in good condition and ensure sharp blades

Question 13

Lawn maintenance - jan

Answer 13

Keep off is frozen or waterlogged

Service lawnmower to avoid spring rush

Question 14

Lawn maintenance - feb

Answer 14

Keep off if frozen or waterlogged

If weather suitable repair lawn edges.

Question 15

Lawn maintenance - mar

Answer 15

Reseed worn areas in established lawns, level depressions and humps.
If grass is actively growing apply fertiliser, weedkiller and mosskiller.
Lightly scarify and established lawn with a springbok to thatch.
If weather suitable and greass us 8cm high, mow at a high setting. Ensure removal of cuttings.
Repair lawn edges if not done in Feb.
If not waterlogged improve drainage using a spider or garden fork, then brush in the holes with a mix of 50/50 sharp sand and sieved compost or topsoil.

Question 16

Lawn maintenance - april

Answer 16

Mow established lawn fortnightly or more often if necessary. Keep blades to a medium height. Avoid any bulbs.
Apply fertilisers and killers if not already done.
Check for and treat any remaining weeds
Scarify lightly if not already done
Trim edges if required
Level humps and fill in depressions.

Question 17

Lawn maintenance - may

Answer 17

Scarify lightly with a sprinkbok.
Continue mowing adjusting blade height with each cut.
Start to cut lawns with naturalised bulbs. First cut should be high.
Use a stick touch weedkiller to treat any large weeds or dig out by hand.

Question 18

Lawn maintenance - june

Answer 18

Continue mowing - in dry weather increase height of blades.
Scarify lightly, except during drought
Control weeds as necessary
Apply nitrogenous fertiliser if grass looks yellow

Question 19

Lawn maintenance - july

Answer 19

Continue mowing - in dry weather increase height of blades.
Scarify lightly, except during drought
Control weeds/pests as necessary using weedkillers, fungicides or ant powder.

Question 20

Lawn maintenance - August

Answer 20

Continue mowing - in dry weather increase height of blades.
Scarify lightly, except during drought
Control weeds/pests as necessary
Monitor lawn for areas that will require attention in autumn - bumps, depressions, thinning grass.

Question 21

Lawn maintenance - sept

Answer 21

Continue mowing - in dry weather increase height of blades.
Scarify vigorously using a springbok to remove dead grass and moss.
Spike if grass looks unhealthy , the soil is compacted or the area is known to get waterlogged. Brush in a 50/50 mix of sharp sand and sieved compost or topsoil.
Apply an autumn fertiliser if the grass has been poor this summer.

Question 22

Lawn maintenance - Oct

Answer 22

Continue to now established and spring laind lawns. Reduce frequency and raise height as weather gets colder .
Vigorously scarify if not already done.
Improve drainage if necessary by spiking and filling
Remove fallen leaves
Repair lawn edges
Roll and mow new autumn seeded lawns when grass gets to about 5cm.

Question 23

Lawn maintenance - nov

Answer 23

Make final cut when grass has stopped growing
Clean lawnmower and arrange for servicing.
Clean and check other lawn tools
Run oily cloth over tools before putting them away.

Question 24

Lawn maintenance - dec

Answer 24

Make arrangements to service lawnmower if not done.

Keep off grass if frozen or waterlogged.

Question 25

Petrol lawnmower

Answer 25

No cable so suitable for large gardens
Powerful
More expensive and noisy

Question 26

Electric lawnmower

Answer 26

Cheaper than petrol. Generally quieter and lighter to use. Need less maintenance .
Often lack power
Robot ones available now that cut grass daily.

Question 27

Cylinder lawnmower

Answer 27

Provides a fine finish and roller behind blades gives stripes on a lawn. More expensive, not as good in wet or long grass, cutting mechanism can be damaged by stones or debris.

Question 28

Rotary lawnmower

Answer 28

Uses rotating blade which leaves a torn finish to the grass blade. Not as fine a finish as cylinder. Heavy to handle. Striped finish can be achieved if roller on the back. Cheaper than cylinder and can cut longer grass.

Question 29

Hover mower

Answer 29

Cutting method same as rotary. Air created by rotation of the blades lifts the mower off the ground. Very easy to push, no stripes, useful for slopes, cheap.

Question 30

Scarifier

Answer 30

Removes dead material (thatch) from around the base of the grass shoots. Tough grass types have slower decomposition. Improves soil and grass condition by letting water and air through. Also helps prevent disease. Can also be done using a springbok for smaller areas.

Question 31

Spikers and core aerators

Answer 31

To allow air to reach the grass roots, improve drainage and relieve compaction. Can use garden fork for small areas. Spiking pushes soil to the sides of the spikes holes, so can increase local compaction. Core areators remove soil plugs from the lawn.

Question 32

Fertiliser applicators

Answer 32

Using too much fertiliser can cause toxic burn. Too little can cause dieback due to insufficient nutrients. Fertiliser applicators need calibrating to ensure correct coverage.

Question 33

Red thread

Answer 33

Prevalent in autumn. Grass loses colour and becomes unsightly. Leaves have minute red needles growing from surface. Aerate and improve drainage. Apply trifloxystrobin.

Question 34

Fusarium patch

Answer 34

Fungal infection most prevalent in autumn and spring. Starts as a small yellowing patch of grass that can grow, forming a large area in which the grass eventually dies. Aerate and improve drainage. Apply trifloxystrobin.

Question 35

Toadstools

Answer 35

Small numbers not a problem. Fairy rings can be very difficult to get rid of and may require the soil to be removed to a depth of 30cm and replaced with fresh topsoil.

Question 36

Moles

Answer 36

Molehills and the mole run can collapse and leave a depression in the lawn which can be difficult to remove. Moles traps and professional services.

Question 37

Leatherjackets

Answer 37

Cause damage by feeding on roots. No chemical control. Watering the lawn or spreading damp newspaper topped with polythene can entice them to the surface where they can be removed.

Question 38

Chafer grubs

Answer 38

Similar damage to leatherjackets by feeding on roots of grass. No chemical control.

Question 39

Cats and dogs

Answer 39

Cats can damage lawns growing from seed by scratching them. Protect with pegged fleece. Don’t allow dogs to urinate or if they do water the area immediately.