Lab Practical 2 Flashcards
Height is…
the vertical distance between the crest and the trough
Wave length is…
the horizontal distance between two adjacent crests (or two adjacent troughs)
Steepness is …
the height divided by the wavelength
Still water level is…
water level with no waves present
Still water level is typically ____
halfway between the crest and trough (waves in open ocean)
Period is…
the time for 2 adjacent (crests/troughs) to pass a fixed point
Frequency is…
the number of waves that pass a fixed point in a given amount of time (opposite of period) and is typically it hertz
What influences larger ocean waves?
-winds blowing at higher speeds for a longer duration, over a greater fetch
What are longshore currents?
an ocean current moving parallel to the shore.
What is littoral drift?
the zig zag pattern (movement) of sediments
What are breakwaters?
a barrier built out into a body of water to protect a coast or harbor from the force of waves.
How is tidal range calculated?
Highest tide- lowest tide
How is amplitude calculated?
Height from center line (still water level) to either trough or crest
What is the order of moon phases?
New, waxing crescent, 1st quarter, waxing gibbous, full, wanning gibbous, third quarter, waning crescent
