Knots Flashcards

1
Q

MBS

A

Minimum Breaking Strength

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2
Q

1 Kn

A

224.7 lbs ~ 225 or 1 person load

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3
Q

SSSF

A

Static System Safety Factor 10:1 DCFD

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4
Q

1/2” static Kernmatle rope is rated at?

A

9,000lbs (40Kn)

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5
Q

How much is is rope de-rated bc of knots

A

30-50% we assume its 50%

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6
Q

Strength and use of Figure 8 on a bight

A

77% for 1/2” 6,950 lbs used as a connection point or a stopper knot

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7
Q

Strength and use of Figure 8 re-weave

A

77% for 1/2” 6,950 used as a connection point around an object

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8
Q

Strength and use of Double Loop 8

A

77% for 1/2” 6,950 used as a connection point (tower Crain)

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9
Q

Strength and use of in Line 8

A

77% for 1/2” 6,950 used as a connection point

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10
Q

Strength and use of Bowline (with Yosemite Finish)

A

67% for 1/2” 6,000 used for connection point around an object

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11
Q

Strength and use of Double Long Tail Bowline

A

67% for 1/2” 6,000 used as main connection for all mirrored systems

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12
Q

Strength and use of Munter around a carabiner/object

A

Used as a fiction device for belay or rappel not for rescue we might use it to lower something

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13
Q

Strength and use of Butterfly

A

75% for 1/2” 6,750 used as a mid-line knot to form a connection point, or to isolate a section of damaged rope

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14
Q

Strength and use of Handcuff knot

A

Used to clinch around two items i.e. wrists and arms pull

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15
Q

Strength and use of Water Bend

A

64% for 1” tubular webbing 2,560

-used to connect two sections ends of webbing typically to create a loop

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16
Q

Strength and use of Triple Wrapped prussic on 1/2” rope

A

8mm cord is 3,500 pre-sewn prussiks is 4,500

prussic can start to slip around 2,000